THERURAL 


I 


I   UBRARY  1 


1ANDSCAPF 
AKCH. 


THE    NURSERY -BOOK 


Craft 


THE  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE  BOOK 

THE  NURSERY-  BOOK 

PLANT  BREEDING 

THE  FORCING  -BOOK 

THE  PRUNING  -BOOK 

GARDEN  -  MAKING 

THE  PRACTICAL  GARDEN  -BOOK 

Others  in  preparation 


THE 

NURSERY-BOOK 


A    COMPLETE    GUIDE    TO 
THE   MULTIPLICATION  OF  PLANTS 


BY 

L.  H.  BAILEY 


SEVENTEENTH  EDITION 


lark 
THE    MACMILLAN    COMPANY 

LON7DON:  MACMILLAN  &  CO.,  LTD. 
1912 

All  rights  reserved 


COPYRIGHT,  1896 
BY  L.  H.  BAILEY 


Set  up  and  eiectrotyped  August,  1896 

Reprinted  January,  1897,  July,  1898,  May,  1900,  July,  1901, 

February,  September,  1903,  February,  1905,  January,  June,  1906, 

August,  1907,  June,  1908,  July,  1909,  March,  1910 

January,  June,  1911,  June,  1912 


Add1! 
GIFT 


J.  HORACE  MCFARLAND  COMPANY 
HARRISBURG  -  PENNSYLVANIA 


SB'H-9 

62 


LAN  I  SCAPE 

ARCH, 
t  LIBRARY 


PREFACE    TO    FIRST    EDITION. 

THIS  little  handbook  aims  at  nothing  more  than  an 
account  of  the  methods  commonly  employed  in  the  prop- 
agation and  crossing  of  plants,  and  its  province  does  not 
extend,  therefore,  to  the  discussion  of  any  of  the  ultimate 
results  or  influences  of  these  methods.  All  such  ques- 
tions as  those  relating  to  the  formation  of  buds,  the 
reciprocal  influences  of  cion  and  stock,  comparative  ad- 
vantages of  whole  and  piece  roots,  and  the  results  of 
pollination,  do  not  belong  here. 

In  its  preparation  I  have  consulted  freely  all  the  best 
literature  of  the  subject,  and  I  have  been  aided  by  many 
persons.  The  entire  volume  has  been  read  by  skilled 
propagators,  so  that  even  all  such  directions  as  are  com. 
monly  recommended  in  other  countries  have  also  been 
sanctioned,  if  admitted,  as  best  for  this.  In  the  propaga- 
tion of  trees  and  shrubs  and  other  hardy  ornamentals,  I 
have  had  the  advice  of  the  head  propagator  of  one  of  the 
largest  nurseries  in  this  country.  The  whole  volume  has 
also  passed  through  the  hands  of  B.  M.  Watson,  of  the 
Bussey  Institution  of  Harvard  University,  a  teacher  of  un- 
usual skill  and  experience  in  this  direction,  and  who  has 
added  greatly  to  the  value  of  the  book.  The  articles  upon 
orchids,  and  upon  most  of  the  different  genera  of  orchids 
in  the  Nursery  List,  have  been  contributed  by  W.  J.  Bean, 


632 


V  PREFACE. 

of  the  Royal  Gardens,  Kew,  who  is  well  known  as  an 
orchid  specialist.  I  have  drawn  freely  upon  the  files  of 
magazines,  both  domestic  and  foreign,  and  I  have  made 
particular  use  of  Nicholson's  Illustrated  Dictionary  of 
Gardening,  Vilmorin's  Les  Fleurs  de  Pleine  Terre,  Le 
Bon  Jardinier,  and  Rumpler's  Illustrirtes  Gartenbau' 
Lexikon. 

It  is  believed  that  the  Nursery  List  contains  all  the 
plants  which  are  ordinarily  grown  by  horticulturists  in  this 
country,  either  for  food  or  ornament.  But  in  order  to  give 
some  clue  to  the  propagation  of  any  which  are  omitted,  an 
ordinal  index  has  been  added,  by  which  one  can  search 
out  plants  of  a  given  natural  order  or  family.  It  cannot 
be  hoped  that  the  book  is  complete,  or  that  the  directions 
are  in  every  case  best  for  all  regions,  and  any  corrections 
or  additions  which  will  be  useful  in  the  preparation  of  a 
second  edition  are  solicited. 

L.  H.  BAILEY. 
ITHACA,  N.  Y.,  January  i,  1.891. 


PREFACE   TO   THIRD   EDITION. 

THIS  manual  was  first  published  in  1891,  by  the 
Rural  Publishing  Company.  In  1892,  the  publishers' 
made  a  second  edition  from  the  same  plates ;  and 
both  editions  are  exhausted.  The  book  has  had  no 
revision  or  corrections,  therefore,  until  the  present 
time.  It  has  enjoyed  a  popularity  far  beyond  its 
merits,  and  it  has,  therefore,  seemed  worth  while  to 
fully  revise  and  recast  it,  and  to  make  it  one  of  the 
Garden-Craft  Series. 

In  this  revision,  it  has  seemed  best  to  give  a  some- 
what full  discussion  of  the  too  prevalent  assumption  that 
graftage  is  necessarily  a  devitalizing  process,  and  to 
analyze  the  unclassified  knowledge  respecting  the  mutual 
influences  of  stock  and  cion,  and  the  respective  peculi- 
arities of  root-grafted  and  budded  fruit  trees.  Some- 
thing has  also  been  said  respecting  the  so-called 
exhaustion  of  nursery  land,  and  of  various  other  nur- 
sery matters  upon  which  there  seems  to  be  much  mis- 
understanding. The  Nursery  List  now  comprises  the 
notes  and  suggestions  of  many  correspondents,  and  the 
results  of  the  experience  and  experiment  of  five  addi- 
tional years.  The  entire  volume  has  been  thoroughly 
ransacked  and  renovated,  and  in  this  work  I  have 
(vii) 


Vlll  PREFACE. 

been  aided  by  B.  M.  Watson,  to  whose  efficient  aid 
the  first  edition  owed  so  much,  and  by  my  associate, 
E.  G.  Lodeman. 

The  chapter  upon  pollination  has  been  omitted  in 
this  edition,  because  a  similar  one  has  been  incorpor- 
ated in  my  "Plant-Breeding."  The  ordinal  index,  which 
was  a  separate  feature  of  the  other  editions,  is  now 
included  in  the  regular  index. 

L.    H.   BAILEY. 
CORNELL  UNIVERSITY, 

ITHACA,  N.  Y.,  July  i,  1896. 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

PAGE 

SEEDAGE 1-25 

1.  Requisites  of  Germination i 

Regulation  of  P-'oisture  i 

Requirements  of  Temperature 7 

Influence  of  Light  upon  Germination 8 

Regermination 9 

2.  Seed-Testing 9 

3.  The  Handling  and  Sowing  of  Seeds  and  Spores 15 

Preparatory  Treatment  of  Seeds 15 

Transportation  of  Seeds  from  Abroad  19 

Sowing  20 

Damping-off 23 

Spores 24 

CHAPTER   II. 
SEPARATION   AND   DIVISION 26-34 

1 .  Separation 26 

2.  Division 32 

CHAPTER  III. 
LAYERAGE 35-43 

CHAPTER  IV. 

CUTTAGE 44-72 

i.  General  Requirements  of  Cuttings 44 

Devices  for  Regulating  Moisture  and  Heat 44 

Bottom  Heat 53 

(ix) 


X  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Soils 54 

The  Formation  of  Roots 55 

2.  The  Various  Kinds  of  Cuttings 58 

Tuber  Cuttings 59 

Root  Cuttings  60 

Stem  Cuttings 62 

Leaf  Cuttings 70 

CHAPTER    V. 

GRAFTAGE 73-156 

1 .  General  Considerations 73 

Mutual  Influence  of  Stock  and  Cion 74 

Limits  of  Graftage 77 

General  Methods 78 

Classification  of  Graftage 79 

Is  Graftage  a  Devitalizing  Process  ? 81 

2.  Budding 94 

Shield-budding 95 

Prong-budding 105 

Plate-budding 105 

H-budding 106 

Flute-budding 106 

Chip-budding 107 

3.  Grafting 107 

Whip-grafting 108 

Modified  Whip-grafts in 

Saddle -grafting 113 

Splice-grafting t 113 

Veneer-grafting 113 

Side-grafting 115 

Inlaying    117 

Cleft-grafting 1 18 

Bark-grafting 129 

Herbaceous-grafting t 130 

Seed-grafting 131 

Cutting-grafting 131 


CONTENTS.  XI 

PAGE 

Double-working 133 

Inarching 132 

Grafting  Waxes 134 

4.  Nursery  Management 138 

Nursery  Lands 139 

Grades  of  Trees 142 

The  Storing  of  Trees  143 

Trimming  Trees  in  the  Nursery 146 

Dwarfing 147 

Root  Grafted  vs.  Budded  Trees 148 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE  NURSERY  LIST I57-336 

GLOSSARY - .  . .  337 

INDEX 349 


HORTICULTURE  I -PLANT   PROPAGATION 

Required  Text :  Bailey's  "Nursery  Book" 
AUGUST -DECEMBER,    1912 


PROVISIONAL    SCHEDULE 


LECTURES 


AND    RECITATIONS 

Enrollment.  1 

Recitation,  Seedage;  2 

pp.  1-25. 

Aug.  27.     Lecture.  3 


Aug.  20. 
Aug.  22. 


Aug.  29. 

Sept.  3. 

Sept.  5. 

Sept.  10. 

Sept.  12. 

Sept.  17. 

Sept.  19. 

Sept.  24. 


Sept.  26. 
Oct.     1. 


Eecitation,  Separation  and     4. 

Division,  pp.  26-34. 
Lecture.     (Report  choice       5. 

of  herb  for  individual 

work.) 
Recitation,  Layerage;  Cut-     6. 

tage;  pp.  35-43;  53-58. 
Lecture.    Oral  quiz   on  7. 

practice  work. 
Recitation,  Cuttage;  pp.         8. 

42-72.    (Preliminary  herb 

report.) 
Lecture.  9. 

Recitation,  Budding;  10. 

pp.  94-107. 
Review.     (Report  choice       11. 

of  shrub  for  individual 

work.) 

Midterm  examination.  12. 

Lecture.    (Report  choice        13. 

of  tree  for  individual 

work.}. 


PRACTICAL  EXERCISES 

Seed  testing. 

Seed  testing.     Sow  tree  seeds. 

Sow  annual   and  perennial  herb 

and  fern  spores. 
Bulbs  and  corms.     Pot  off  rose  j 

and  rooted  willow  cuttings. 
Tubers  and  rootstocks.     Pot  off  i 

geranium   and   fuschia   cutting 

Layerage  demonstrations. 

Individual  work. 
Layerage.     Prick  out  seedlings. 

Soft  wood  cuttings. 
Leaf  cuttings. 

Prick  out  fern  plants  and  seedlii 

Note  Books. 
Practice  budding.     Bud  rose  am 

low  in  house. 
Bud  roses  and  apricots  in  nursei 

Transplant   seedlings. 

Individual  work. 

Bud  walnuts  in  nursery. 

Transplant  ferns  and  seedling 


THE   NURSERY-BOOK. 


CHAPTER  I. 


SEEDAGE. 

I.    REQUISITKS   OF   GERMINATION. 

THERE  are  three  external  requisites  to  the  germination 
of  seeds — moisture,  free  oxygen,  and  a  definite  temperature. 
These  requisites  are  demanded  in  different  degrees  anc. 
proportions  by  seeds  of  different  species,  or  even  by  seeds 
of  the  same  species  when  differing  widely  in  age  or  in 
degree  of  maturity.  The  supply  of  oxygen  usually  regu- 
lates itself.  It  is  only  necessary  that  the  seeds  shall  not 
be  planted  too  deep,  that  the  soil  is  porous  and  not 
overloaded  with  water.  Moisture  and  temperature,  how- 
ever, must  be  carefully  regulated. 

Regulation  of  Moisture. — Moisture  is  the  most  important 
factor  in  seedage.  It  is  usually  ap- 
plied to  the  seeds  by  means  of  soil 
or  some  similar  medium,  as  moss 
or  cocoanut  fiber.  Fresh  and  vig- 
orous seeds  endure  heavy  water- 
ings, but  old  and  poor  seeds  must 
be  given  very  little  water.  If  there 
is  reason  to  suspect  that  the  seeds 
are  weak,  water  should  not  be  ap- 
plied to  them  directly.  A  favorite 
method  of  handling  weak  and  also  /.  Double  seed-pot. 


2  SEEDAGE. 

very  small  seeds  is  to  sow  ihem  in  a  pot  of  loose  and  sandy 
loam  which  is  set  inside  a  larger  pot,  the  intermediate  space 
being  filled  with  moss,  to  which,  alone,  the  water  is  applied. 
This  device  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  i.  The  water  soaks  through 
the  walls  of  the  inner  pot  and  is  supplied  gradually  and  con- 
stantly to  the  soil.  Even  in  this  case  it  is  necessary  to  pre- 
vent soaking  the  moss  too  thoroughly,  especially  with  very 
weak  seeds.  When  many  pots  are  required,  they  may  be 
simply  plunged  in  moss  with  the  same  effect.  The  soil 
should  be  simply  very  slightly  moist,  never  wet.  Moisture 
is  sometimes  supplied  by  setting  the  seed-pot  in  a  shallow 
saucer  of  water,  or  it  may  be  sufficient  to  simply  place  it 
in  the  humid  atmosphere  of  a  propagating-box.  Large  but 
weak  seeds  may  be  laid  upon  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  a 
half-filled  pot,  covered  with  thin  muslin,  and  then  covered 
with  loose  and  damp  loam.  Every  day  the  pot  is  inverted, 
the  covering  taken  off  and  fresh  soil  added.  A  modifica- 
tion of  this  plan,  for  small  seeds,  can  be  made  by  placing 
the  seeds  between  two  layers  of  thin  muslin  and  inserting 
them  in  damp  loam,  which  is  frequently  renewed  to  avoid 
the  extremes  which  would  result  from  watering  or  from 
allowing  the  soil  to  become  dry.  In  these  last  operations, 
no  water  is  applied  to  the  seeds,  and  they  constitute  one 
of  the  most  satisfactory  methods  of  dealing  with  seeds  of 
low  viability.  They  are  essentially  the  methods  long  ago 
used  by  Knight,  who  laid  such  seeds  between  two  sods 
cut  from  an  old  and  dry  pasture. 

Even  sound  and  strong  seeds  should  be  watered  with 
care.  Drenchings  usually  weaken  or  destroy  them.  The 
earth  should  be  kept  simply  damp.  To  insure  comparative 
dryness  in  indoor  culture,  some  loose  material,  as  pieces  of 
broken  pots  or  clinkers,  should  be  placed  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pot  or  box  to  afford  drainage.  It  should  be  borne  in 
mind,  however,  that  the  seed-bed  should  be  approximately 
equally  moist  throughout  its  depth.  The  waterings  should, 
therefore,  be  copious  enough  to  moisten  the  soil  throughout. 


SOAKING    SEEDS.  3 

A  wet  or  moist  surface  over  a  dry  substratum  should  always 
be  avoided.  Error  is  common  here.  It  is  usually  best  to 
apply  water  with  a  watering-pot,  as  watering  with  a  hose  is 
apt  to  wash  out  the  seeds  and  to  pack  the  soil,  and  the 
quantity  of  water  is  not  so  easily  regulated. 

At  first  thought,  it  would  appear  that  the  apparently  good 
results  following  soaking  of  seeds  in  many  cases  are  a  contra- 
diction of  these  statements  that  seeds  may  be  over-watered. 
But  soaking  is  usually  beneficial  only  when  practiced  for  a 
comparatively  short  time.  It  is  not  good  practice  to  soak 
delicate  seeds  before  sowing,  and  it  is  of  doubtful  utility  in 
most  other  cases,  unless  it  is  necessary  to  soften  the  integu- 
ments of  hard-shelled  species,  as 
discussed  on  page  16.  The  gain  in 
rapidity  of  germination  following 
soaked,  as  compared  with  dry  seeds, 
is  often  fictitious,  inasmuch  as  germi- 
nation actually  begins  in  the  soaked 
seed  before  the  dry  samples  are  sown. 
The  soaked  seeds  are  sown  in  water 

rather  than  in  soil,  and  as  conditions  *•  Seed-pot,  covered  with 

.r  ,  .  glass. 

are  more  uniform  there,  a  gain  appar- 
ently due  to  soaking  may  result.  In  the  case  of  strong  seeds 
which  must  be  planted  outdoors  in  cold  or  uncongenial  soil, 
a  preliminary  soaking  of  from  12  to  24  hours  may  be  bene- 
ficial, as  it  lessens  the  period  which  the  seeds  would  other- 
wise pass  in  untoward  conditions.  But  soaked  seeds,  unless 
of  very  hardy  species,  should  never  be  sown  outdoors  until 
the  soil  has  become  rather  dry  and  warm. 

To  prevent  too  rapid  drying  out,  the  soil  should  be  firmly 
pressed  about  the  seeds.  The  pot  or  box  should  be  given  a 
shady  place,  or  some  covering  may  be  applied  to  check 
evaporation.  A  pane  of  glass  is  often  placed  over  the  pot 
(Fig.  2)  or  box,  being  tilted  a  little  at  intervals  to  allow 
of  ventilation  and  to  prevent  the  soil  from  becoming  soggy 
or  "sour."  A  seed  case,  with  a  glass  cover,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  3,  is  neat  and  handy  in  the  treatment  of  small  seeds. 


SEEDAGE. 


j.  Glass-covered  seed-case. 


A  thin  covering  of  fine  moss  is  sometimes  given,  or  a  news- 
paper may  be  thrown  over  the  soil. 

In  outdoor  culture,  only  a  naturally  dry  and  well-drained 
soil  should  be  chosen  for  all  ordinary  seeds, 
especially  for  such  as  are  sown  in  the  fall 
or  remain  in  the  ground  a  long 
time    before    germinating.      Soils 
which  contain  a  liberal  amount  of 
sand  or  gravel  are  especially  val- 
uable for  this  purpose. 

To  prevent  drying  in  outdoor 
culture,  it  is  important  that  the  earth 

be  well  firmed  over  the  seeds.  Walking  on  the  row,  placing 
one  foot  directly  ahead  of  the  other,  is  usually  the  most 
expeditious  and  satisfactory  operation,  at  least  with  large 
seeds.  Or  the  earth  may  be  firmed  with  a  hoe  or  the 
back  of  a  spade,  or  a  board  may  be  placed  upon  the  row 
and  then  be  thoroughly  settled  by  walking  over  it.  For 
small  lots  of  seeds,  it  is  well  to  cover  them  with  an  inverted 
flower-pot  (Fig.  4),  exercising  care  to  tilt  it  frequently  to 
prevent  the  plants  from  "drawing." 
In  the  sowing  of  celery  and  other 
small  and  slow  seeds,  it  is  a  frequent 
practice  to  leave  the  board  on 
row  until  the  seeds  appear, 
in  order  to  hold  the  mois- 
ture. This  is  a  doubtful  ex- 
pedient, however,  for  the 
young  plants  are  apt  to  be 
quickly  dispatched  by  the 
sun  when  the  board  is  removed.  If  the  board  is  employed, 
it  should  be  raised  an  inch  or  two  from  the  ground  as 
soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  appear.  But  the  shade  of  the 
beard  is  too  dense,  and  plants  do  not  grow  stocky  under 
it.  It  is  better  to  use  brush  or  lath  screens  if  protection 
is  desired ;  or  fine  litter,  if  free  from  weed  seeds,  may  be 
used.  In  most  cases,  however,  screens  will  not  be  needed, 


the 


4.  Seeds  covered  with  flower-pot. 


SUN-SCREENS     FOR     SEEDS. 


by  celery  and  similar  seeds  if  the  ground  is  in  the  proper 
condition,  so  that  it  will  neither  bake  nor  dry  out  quickly, 
and  is  well  firmed  at  planting  time,  and  if  the  seeds  are 
sown  early,  before  hot,  dry  weather  comes.  It  is  always 
advisable,  nevertheless,  to  place  the  beds  for  slow  and 
small  seeds  where 
they  can  be  watered 
occasionally. 

There  are  many 
kinds  of  screens  in 
use  to  prevent  the 
drying  out  of  small 
seeds  in  outdoor 
seedage  and  to  pro- 
tect the  young  seed- 
lings. These  are 
used  also  in  the 
shading  of  cuttings. 
The  common  lath  screen  (Fig.  5)  is  the  most  useful  for 
general  purposes.  It  is  simply  a  square  frame  made  from 
common  laths  laid  at  right  angles  in  a  double  series.  The 
interstices  between  the  laths  are  equal  in  width  to  the  laths 
themselves.  These  screens  are  laid  horizontally  upon  a 
light  framework  a  few  inches  above  the  seeds.  The  pas- 
sage of  the  sun  constantly  moves  the  shadows  over  the  bed, 


5.  Lath  screen. 


6.  Brush  screen. 


and  sufficient  shade  is  afforded  while  thorough  ventilation  is 
allowed.  This  and  all  other  elevated  screens  are  useful  in 
shading  and  protecting  the  young  plants  as  well,  but  when 


SEEDAGE. 


used  for  this  purpose  they  are  usually  raised  a  greater  dis- 
tance above  the  beds.  A  brush  screen,  consisting  of  a  low 
frame  covered  with  boughs,  is  often  used,  as  shown  in  Fig.  6. 
This  is  cheaper  than  the  lath  screens,  and  is  equally  as  good 


7.  Screen  for  frames. 

for  most  purposes.  The  brush  is  often  laid  directly  upon  the 
ground,  especially  in  large  beds.  This  answers  the  purpose 
of  shading,  but  it  does  not  allow  of  weeding,  and  it  must  be 
taken  off  soon  after  the  seeds  germinate,  or  slender  plants 
will  be  injured  in  its  removal.  Brush  screens  are  sometimes 
raised  three  or  four  feet  to  allow  of  weeding.  A  screen  for 
frames  is  shown  in  Fig.  7.  It  is  a  simple  covering  of  muslin 
stretched  over  the  top  and  sides  of  a  rough  framework. 

The  cloth  is  usually 
omitted  from  the  front 
side.  This  style  of 
screens  is  much  used 
by  nurserymen,  espe- 
cially for  cutting-beds. 
Whitewashing  the 
sashes  of  coldframes 
also  affords  good  shading.  A  more  elaborate  and  perma- 
nent screen  is  shown  in  Fig.  8.  It  is  built  of  slats,  usually 
3-inch  stuff.  This  shed  screen  is  oftenest  used  for  the  pro- 
tection of  tender  plants,  but  it  affords  an  exceedingly  use- 


8.  Shed  screen  for  seeds  and  plants 


REQUIREMENTS  OF  TEMPERATURE.  7 

ful  and  convenient  place  for  the  storage  of  pots  and  boxes 
of  slow-germinating  seeds.  A  more  'elaborate  shed  screen, 
made  of  lath  or  slats,  and  containing  seed-beds  edged  with 
boards,  is  shown  in  Fig.  9. 

Various  frames  and  covers  are  employed  for  indoor 
seedage,  but  they  are  designed  to  regulate  atmospheric 
moisture  and  to  control  temperature.  They  are  more 


Large  shed  screen,  with  seed-beds. 


commonly  employed  in  the  growing  of  cuttings,  and  are, 
therefore,  described  in  Chapter  IV. 

Requirements  of  Temperature. — Variations  in  temperature 
exercise  less  influence  upon  seeds  than  variations  in  moisture. 
Yet  it  is  important  that  the  extremes  of  temperature  should 
not  be  great,  especially  in  small,  delicate  or  weak  seeds. 
Seeds  will  endure  greater  extremes  of  temperature  when 
dry  than  when  moist.  This  indicates  that  germinating  seeds 
must  be  kept  in  a  comparatively  uniform  temperature.  For 
this  reason  it  is  poor  practice  to  put  seed-boxes  in  a  window 
in  full  sunlight.  Partial  or  complete  shade  serves  the  double 
purpose  of  preventing  too  great  heat  and  too  rapid  evapora- 
tion. Various  covered  seed-boxes  are  used  for  the  purpose 
of  maintaining  approximately  the  required  temperature,  but 


8  SEEDAGE. 

as  they  are  oftener  used  in  bud-propagation,  they  are  dis- 
cussed in  that  connection. 

Bottom  heat  is  helpful  to  germination  in  most  seeds,  but, 
except  in  the  case  of  certain  tropical  species,  it  should  not 
be  strong.  It  is  a  common  practice  to  place  seed-boxes  on 
moderately  cool  pipes  under  benches  in  a  greenhouse.  Seeds 
of  hardy  annuals  and  perennials  do  not  require  botton  heat, 
although  they  may  be  benefited  by  it.  If  the  soil  in  seed- 
beds should  become  too  cool,  watering  with  warm  or  tepid 
water  will  be  found  to  be  helpful. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  rules  for  the  determination  of  the 
proper  temperature  for  different  kinds  of  seeds.  In  general, 
it  may  be  said  that  seeds  germinate  most  rapidly  at  a  tem- 
perature a  few  degrees  above  that  required  for  the  best 
development  of  the  plant  itself.  Seeds  of  hardy  plants  re- 
quire a  temperature  of  from  50°  to  70°,  conservatory  plants 
from  60°  to  80°,  and  tropical  or  stove  plants  from  75°  to  95°. 
The  plantlets  should  be  removed  from  these  highest  tem- 
peratures, as  a  rule,  as  soon  as  germination  is  completed. 

In  outdoor  culture,  depth  of  planting  has  a  direct  relation 
to  temperature.  Seeds  may  be  planted  deeper  late  in  the 
season  than  early,  when  the  soil  is  cold  and  damp.  Deep 
planting  probably  as  often  kills  seeds  because  of  the  absence 
of  sufficient  heat  as  from  the  lack  of  oxygen  or  the  great 
depth  of  earth,  through  which  the  plantlet  is  unable  to  push. 

Influence  of  Light  upon  Germination. — The  influence  which 
light  exerts  upon  germination  is  not  definitely  understood 
for  all  horticultural  seeds.  It  is  known,  however,  that  seeds 
will  often  germinate  in  full  sunlight,  if  the  proper  conditions 
of  moisture  and  temperature  can  be  maintained.  Seeds 
sown  upon  a  moist  surface  and  covered  with  a  glass  present 
an  interesting  study.  But  it  is  well  known,  on  the  other 
hand,  that  some  seeds  will  not  germinate,  or  will  at  least 
appear  unevenly,  if  subjected  to  sunlight.  At  least  some  of 
the  delphiniums,  papavers  and  adonises  germinate  very 
imperfectly,  if  at  all,  in  direct  light.  It  is  always  advisable 


REGERMINATION. — SEED-TESTING.  g 

to  keep  germinating  seeds  in  shade  or  partial  darkness, 
especially  as  there  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  exposing 
them.  Of  course,  the  soil  itself  is  sufficient  protection  if 
the  seeds  are  covered. 

Regermination.— It  is  a  common  statement  that  seeds 
can  never  revive  if  allowed  to  become  thoroughly  dry  after 
they  have  begun  to  sprout.  This  is  an  error.  Wheat,  oats, 
buckwheat,  maize,  pea,  onion,  radish  and  other  seeds  have 
been  experimented  upon  in  this  direction,  and  they  are 
found  to  regerminate  readily,  even  if  allowed  to  become 
thoroughly  dry  and  brittle  after  sprouting  is  well  progressed. 
They  will  even  regerminate  several  times.  Wheat,  peas  and 
other  seeds  have  been  carried  through  as  many  as  seven 
germinations  after  the  radicle  had  grown  a  half  inch  or  more 
and  the  seeds  had  been  sufficiently  dried  in  each  trial  to 
render  them  fit  for  grinding. 

2.       SEED-TESTING. 

Whilst  it  is  not  the  province  of  this  handbook  to  discuss 
the  question  of  the  testing  of  seeds,  a  few  hints  upon  the 
subject  may  be  acceptable,  particularly  in  the  bearing  of  the 
remarks  upon  seed  sowing.  Germination  is  complete  when 
the  plantlet  begins  to  assume  true  leaves  and  to  appropriate 
food  directly  from  the  soil.  The  testing  of  seeds  is  not 
always  concerned  with  germination,  but  with  the  simple 
sprouting  of  the  samples.  Many  seeds  will  sprout  which  are 
not  strong  enough  to  germinate  completely,  and  more  seeds 
will  be  counted  as  viable  when  they  are  tested  in  some 
germinating  apparatus — where  the  conditions  are  ideal — 
than  when  they  are  normally  planted  in  the  soil.  There  is 
even  sometimes  a  marked  difference  between  the  results  of 
seed-tests  made  in  soil  in  the  greenhouse  and  in  outdoor 
planting,  as  the  following  comparisons  (Bulletin  7,  Cornell 
Experiment  Station,  1889)  plainly  show : 

"  It  has  been  said  recently  that  the  ideal  test  of  seeds  is 
actual  sowing  in  the  field,  inasmuch  as  the  ultimate  value  of 


10 


SEEDAGE. 


the  seed  is  its  capability  to  produce  crop.  This  notion  of 
seed-tests  is  obviously  fallacious,  although  the  statement 
upon  which  it  is  based  is  true.  In  other  words,  actual  plant- 
ing rarely  gives  a  true  measure  of  the  capabilities  of  all  the 
seeds  of  any  sample,  because  of  the  impossibility  to  control 
conditions  and  methods  in  the  field.  The  object  of  seed- 
tests  is  to  determine  how  many  seeds  are  viable,  and  what 
is  their  relative  vigor  ;  if  planting  shows  poorer  results,  be- 
cause of  covering  too  deep  or  too  shallow,  by  exposing  to 
great  extremes  of  temperature  or  moisture,  or  a  score  of 
other  untoward  conditions,  the  sample  cannot  be  held  to 
account  for  the  shortcoming.  The  following  table  indicates 
the  extent  of  variations  which  may  be  expected  between 
tests  and  actual  plantings  of  seeds  from  the  same  samples  : 
"Various  samples  were  tested  indoors  and  actually 
planted  in  the  field.  The  seeds  were  sown  in  the  field  June 
5,  and  the  last  notes  were  taken  from  them  July  5.  They 
were  sown  on  a  gravelly  knoll.  Rain  fell  about  every  alter- 
nate day,  and  the  soil  was  in  good  condition  for  germina- 
tion throughout  the  month.  The  indoor  tests  were  made  in 
loose  potting  earth,  or  in  sand  in  seed-pans. — 


SAMPLES. 

No.  of 
germ,    in 
house. 

Per  cent 
of 
germ,  in 
house. 

No.  of 
germ,  in 
field 
(200  seeds 
sown). 

Per  cent 
of 
germ,  in 
field. 

Per  cent 
of 
differ- 
ence. 

Endive,  Green  Curled,  Thor- 
burn  (200  seeds)     
Tomato,  Green  Gage,  Thorburn 
(too  seeds)    
Turnip,  Ea.  Six  Weeks,  Dept. 
of  Agriculture  (200  seeds)     . 
Pea,  White  Garden  Marrowfat, 
Thorburn  (60  seeds)    .       .   . 
Celery,    White     Plume,    Thor- 

88 
72 
180 
55 
41 

44 
72 
90 
91.6 
41 

53 
93 
65 
181 

22 

26.5 
46.5 
32.5 
90-5 
II 

17-5 
25-5 
57  5 
i.i 
3° 

Onion,       Red       Wethersfield, 
Thorburn  (200  seeds)  .... 
Carrot,   Early  Forcing,  Thor- 
burn (too  seeds)     

148 
7° 

74 
70 

84 

39 

42 
19.5 

32 

50.5 

Carrot,  Vermont  Butter,  Hos- 
kins  (100  seeds)  

65 

65 

45 

22.5 

42-5 

SEED-TESTING.  II 

"The  table  indicates  that  actual  planting  in  the  field 
gives  fewer  germinations  than  careful  tests  in  conditions 
under  control.  This  difference  in  total  of  germination, 
even  under  favorable  conditions  of  planting,  may  amount 
to  over  50  per  cent. 

"In  planting,  due  allowance  should  be  made  for  the 
comparatively  bungling  methods  of  field  practice  by  the 
use  of  greater  quantities  of  seeds  than  would  seem,  from 
the  results  of  tests,  to  be  sufficient." 

Probably  the  most  truthful  test  of  seeds  can  be  made  in 
soil  in  earthen  pans  in  a  greenhouse  or  forcing-house.  When 
one  desires  to  show  the  ultimate  percentage  of  seeds  which 
contain  life,  the  sprouting  test  should  be  used.  In  this  case, 
some  apparatus  should  be  employed  in  which  the  moisture 
and  temperature  can  be  controlled  to  a  nicety,  and  in  which 
the  seeds  can  be  examined  as  often  as  desired.  As  soon  as 
a  seed  sprouts,  it  is  removed  and  counted  as  viable,  wholly 
independently  of  whether  it  is  strong  enough  to  make  a  plant 
under  ordinary  conditions.  In  other  words,  the  sprouting 
test  is  almost  wholly  an  attempt  to  arrive  at  a  numerical 
estimate  of  the  viability  of  the  sample,  rather  than  an  effort 
to  determine  the  relative  strength  of  germinative  power. 

There  are  many  excellent  devices  for  the  making  of 
sprouting  tests,  only  three  or  four  of  which  need  be  men- 
tioned here,  for  the  purpose  of  illustrating  some  of  the 
principles  which  are  employed.  One  of  the  best  known 
of  these  apparatus  in  this  country  is  the  Geneva  tester, 
which  originated  at  the  New  York  Experiment  Station  at 
Geneva. 

A  full  account  of  this  device  by  Professor  J.  C.  Arthur 
(Botanical  Gazette,  1885,  p.  425)  is  here  inserted  : 

"Various  methods  have  been  used  for  testing  the  per 
cent  and  time  of  seed  germination.  Those  most  commonly 
adopted  in  this  country  and  also  abroad  have  been  to  place 
the  seeds  on  the  surface  of  porous  tile,  smooth  sand  or 
compacted  earth.  Without  stopping  to  point  out  the  defects 
and  inconveniences  of  these  methods,  I  desire  to  describe 


12 


SEEDAGE. 


10.  The  Geneva  seed-tester. 


an  apparatus  devised  at  the  New  York  Agricultural  Experi- 
ment Station,  and  which  has  been  found  so  satisfactory  as  to 
supersede  all  other  sorts  of  germinators  at  that  institution 
for  general  use.  It  consists  (Fig. 
10)  of  a  pan  10x14  inches  wide 
and  3^  inches  deep,  to  be  cov- 
ered with  a  pane  of 
glass.  Along  the 
sides  is  a  ledge 
;Hrinch  wide,  and  as 
much  below  the  upper 
edge.  The  pan  is 
best  made  of  tinned 
copper,  the  ledge 
formed  by  the  proper 
shaping  of  the  sides 
of  the  pan,  and  the 
edges  on  three  sides 
turned  over  to  form 

a  groove  into  which  the  pane  of  glass  may  be  slid  from 
one  end.  These  details  are  not  shown  in  the  cut.  The 
seeds  are  held  in  the  folds  of  cloth.  A  strip  of  white 
Canton  flannel  is  taken  sufficiently  wide  so  that  when 
hemmed  on  both  sides  (to  prevent  seeds  slipping  out  of  the 
ends  of  the  folds)  it  will  be  the  same  as  the  inside  width  of 
the  pan.  A  long  enough  strip  is  used  to  have  about  twenty- 
four  folds  i>£  inches  deep,  and  leave  a  flap  of  several 
inches  at  each  end.  The  upper  margin  of  the  folds  is 
sewn  across  to  permit  a  J^-inch  brass  rod  to  be  run  in 
(Y,  P),  from  which  the  cloth  is  suspended  in  the  pan,  as 
shown  in  the  cut.  The  lower  margins  of  the  folds  (o)  are 
also  sewn  across  to  make  them  stay  in  place  better.  The 
total  length  of  the  strip  after  the  sewing  is  completed  is 
about  a  yard.  Two  such  strips  are  used  in  each  pan. 

' '  To  put  the  pan  into  use,  it  is  filled  part  full  of  water, 
two  of  the  prepared  cloths  put  in,  the  glass  cover  adjusted 
and  the  whole  boiled  over  a  lamp  for  a  short  time.  This  is 


SEED  -  TESTERS.  13 

necessary  in  order  both  to  thoroughly  wet  the  cloth  and  to 
kill  any  mold  or  other  germs.  When  again  cool,  adjust  the 
cloths  on  the  brass  rods  and  put  in  the  seeds.  Each  fold 
will  hold  25  large  seeds,  like  beans,  and  a  hundred  or  more 
small  seeds.  Water  is  placed  in  the  pan,  but  not  enough  to 
touch  the  folds  of  cloth  ;  the  four  flaps  drop  down  into  it, 
however,  and  keep  the  cloths  sufficiently  wet  by  capillarity, 
which  is  increased  by  the  long  nap  on  the  under  surface  of 
the  cloth.  The  folds  are  numbered  consecutively,  and  the 
record  kept  by  the  numbers. 

"The  advantages  in  a  pan  of  this  kind  are  the  facility 
with  which  the  seeds  may  be  examined  and  counted,  the 
thorough  and  uniform  moisture  of  the  seeds  throughout 
the  longest  trials,  its  lightness  and  cleanliness.  It  is  nec- 
essary to  renew  the  cloths  from  time  to  time,  as  they  will 
slowly  rot  out,  even  with  tne  best  of  care." 


a    Az. 


ii.  An  absorbing  block  seed-tester. 

A  device  of  a  wholly  different  character,  used  in  Ger- 
many, is  shown  in  Figs,  u  and  12  (Annals  Hort.,  1890,  268). 
It  consists  of  three  parts  :  a  tin  tray  (c)  for  holding  water  ; 
a  block  of  gypsum  (b)  which  sits  in  the  tray  and  contains 
several  compartments  for  the  reception  of  the  seeds,  and 
which  is  kept  moist  by  capillary  attraction  ;  a  glass  cover 
(a).  The  apparatus  is  seen  at  work  in  Fig.  12.  This 
device  works  upon  a  principle  which  has  long  been  util- 


SEEDAGE. 


12.  The  seed-tester  (No.  //)  set  up. 


ized  in  the  testing  of  seeds — the  capillary  power  of  earth- 
enware and  various 
species  of  rock — and 
there  are  many  appli- 
cations of  the  idea  in 
practice.  These  seed- 
testers  may  be  placed 
in  an  incubator  or 
other  heating  device, 
or  they  may  be  used 
in  the  greenhouse  or 
a  living-room. 

A  recent  bulletin  (No.  35)  of  the  Rhode  Island  Experi- 
ment Station  describes  and  illustrates  a  modification  of 
the  absorbing-block  idea.  Instead  of  a  slab  of  stone  or 
earthenware,  "sprouting  cups"  are  used.  "These  were 
made  for  this  statiom  out  of  porous  clay  by  A.  H.  Hews 
&  Co.,  of  North  Cambridge,  Mass.,  the  pattern  being 
'much  like  that  used  at  the  Seed  Control  Station  at  Zurich, 
Switzerland.  They  are  3  inches  in  diameter  and  i^ 

inches  high,  including 
the  cover,  which  is  ven- 
tilated, as  shown  in  Fig. 
13.  The  bottom  is  solid 
and  >£-inch  thick.  Each 
cup  is  placed  in  a  glass 
dish  in  which  a  constant 
supply  of  water  is  kept."  These  cups  are  placed  in  a 
"sprouting  chamber"  (Fig.  14),  supplied  with  uniform 
heat.  "This  holds  about  fifty  cups.  Heat  is  supplied 
by  a  gas  jet,  which  is  supported  beneath  the  chamber, 
and  it  is  distributed  evenly  to  all  sides  of  the  chamber, 
except  the  front,  by  means  of  a  water-jacket.  It  is  pro- 
vided with  two  doors,  the  inner  one  being  glass.  There 
is  an  opening  in  the  side  and  top  for  ventilating,  and  a 
second  opening  in  the  top  for  the  insertion  of  a  thermom- 
eter. There  are  also  two  openings  into  the  water-jacket 


13.  Sprouting  cup. 


STRATIFYING    SEEDS. 


at  the  top.  In  one  of  these  a  thermostat  (c)  is  placed, 
which  controls  the  flow  of  gas  at  the  jet  beneath,  and  in 
the  other  a  thermometer  (D)  may  be  placed  to  show  the 
temperature  of  the  water  in  the  jacket." 

3.    THE    HANDLING    AND    SOWING    OF 
SEEDS    AND    SPORES. 

Preparatory  Treatment  of  Seeds.  —  Many  seeds  demand 
some  treatment  preparatory  to  sow- 
ing. Nearly  all  hard  and  bony 
seeds  fail  to  germinate,  or  at  least 
germinate  very  irregularly,  if  their 
contents  are  allowed  to  become 
thoroughly  dry  and  hard.  The 
shells  must  also  be  softened  or 
broken,  in  many  cases,  before  the 
embryo  can  grow.  Nature  treats 
such  seeds  by  keeping  them  con- 
stantly moist  under  leaves  or  mold, 
and  by  cracking  them  with  frost. 
This  suggests  the  practice  known 
to  gardeners  as  stratification,  an 
operation  which  consists  in  mix- 
ing seeds  with  earth  and  expos- 
ing them  to  frost  or  to  moisture 
for  a  considerable  time. 

Stratification  is  practiced,  as  a 
rule,  with  all  nuts,  the  seeds  of  forest  trees,  shrubs,  the 
pips  of  haws  and  often  of  roses,  and  in  many  cases  with 
the  seeds  of  common  fruits.  Seeds  should  be  stratified 
as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are  mature.  Small  seeds 
are  usually  placed  in  thin  layers  in  a  box  alternating  with 
an  inch  or  two  of  sand.  Sometimes  the  seeds  are  mixed 
indiscriminately  in  the  sand,  but  unless  they  are  large  it 
is  difficult  to  separate  them  out  at  sowing-time.  The 
sand  is  often  sown  with  the  seeds,  however,  but  it  is 
difficult  in  such  cases  to  distribute  the  seeds  evenly,  and 


sprouting  chamber. 


16  SEEDAGE. 

in  sowing  large  quantities  the  handling  of  the  sand  entails 
a  considerable  burden  and  becomes  an  item  of  expense. 
It  is  advisable  to  pass  the  sand  through  a  sieve  of  finer 
mesh  than  the  seeds,  and  the  seeds  can  then  be  sifted 
out  at  sowing-time.  If  the  seeds  are  very  small  or  very 
few  in  number,  they  may  be  placed  between  folds  of  thin 
muslin,  which  is  then  laid  in  the  sand.  Any  shallow  box, 
like  a  gardener's  "flat,"  is  useful  in  making  stratifica- 
tions, or  pots  may  be  used  with  small  lots  of  seeds.  A 
flat  four  inches  in  depth  might  contain  two  or  three 
layers  or  strata  of  seeds  the  size  of  peas. 

The  disposition  of  the  boxes  when  filled  varies  with  dif- 
ferent operators.  Some  prefer  to  bury  them.  In  this  case 
a  well-drained  sandy  slope  is  chosen.  The  flats  are  placed 
in  a  trench  from  one  to  two  feet  deep,  covered  with  a  single 
thickness  of  boards,  and  the  trench  is  then  filled  with  earth. 
The  seeds  usually  freeze  somewhat,  although  freezing  is  not 
considered  necessary  unless  in  the  case  of  nut-like  seeds. 
The  object  attained  in  burying  is  to  keep  the  seeds  moist 
and  fresh,  inducing  the  rotting  or  softening  of  the  coverings, 
while  they  are  buried  so  deep  that  they  will  not  sprout. 
Seeds  of  most  forest  trees  should  be  treated  in  this  manner. 
They  are  commonly  left  in  the  ground  until  the  following 
spring,  when  they  are  taken  up  and  sown  in  drills  in  mellow 
ground.  If  good  loam,  to  which  has  been  added  a  little 
well-rotted  manure,  is  used,  the  seeds  or  nuts  of  hardy  trees 
and  shrubs  may  be  allowed  to  germinate  and  grow  for  one 
season  in  the  flats.  At  the  end  of  the  season  or  the  next 
spring,  the  plants  can  be  transplanted  without  losing  one. 
This  is,  perhaps,  the  best  way  to  handle  rare  and  difficult 
subjects. 

Many  growers  place  the  boxes  on  the  surface  in  some 
protected  place,  as  under  trees  or  in  a  shed,  and  cover  them 
during  winter  a  foot  deep  with  clean  straw  or  leaves.  If 
boxes  are  piled  on  top  of  each  other  they  should  be  mulched 
with  moss,  else  the  under  ones  may  become  too  dry.  Or 
the  boxes  may  be  placed,  without  covering,  in  a  shed,  but 


TREATMENT  OF  BONY  SEEDS.  IJ 

they  must  be  examined  occasionally  to  see  that  they  do  not 
become  too  dry.  Precaution  must  also  be  taken  to  keep 
away  mice,  squirrels,  blue-jays,  and  other  intruders. 

Large,  nut-like  seeds  or  fruits,  like  peach-pits,  walnuts 
and  hickory-nuts,  are  usually  buried  in  sand  or  light  loam 
where  they  may  freeze.  Or  sometimes  the  large  nuts  are 
thrown  into  a  pile  with  earth  and  allowed  to  remain  on  the 
surface.  Freezing  serves  a  useful  purpose  in  aiding  to  crack 
the  shells,  but  it  is  not  essential  to  subsequent  germination, 
as  is  commonly  supposed.  All  seeds,  so  far  as  known,  can 
be  grown  without  the  agency  of  frost,  if  properly  handled. 

Fall  sowing  amounts  to  stratification,  but  unless  the  soil 
is  mellow  and  very  thoroughly  drained  the  practice  is  not 
advisable.  The  seeds  are  liable  to  be  heaved  or  washed  out, 
or  eaten  by  vermin,  and  the  soil  is  apt  to  bake  over  them. 
Under  proper  conditions,  however,  the  seeds  of  fruits  and 
many  forest  trees  thrive  well  under  fall  sowing.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe,  even  if  in  mid- 
summer ;  or  if  the  ground  is  not  ready  for  them  at  that  time, 
they  may  be  temporarily  stratified  to  prevent  too  great  hard- 
ening of  the  parts.  It  is  best,  however,  to  allow  all  green 
or  moist  seeds  to  dry  off  a  few  days  before  they  are  strati- 
fied. Fall-sown  seeds  should  always  be  mulched. 

Some  seeds  rarely  germinate  until  the  second  year  after 
maturity,  even  with  the  best  of  treatment.  The  thorns, 
mountain  ash,  hollies,  viburnums,  some  roses,  and  many 
others  belong  to  this  category.  Some  growers  sow  them 
regularly  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe,  and  allow  the  beds  to 
remain  until  the  seeds  appear.  This  is  a  waste  of  land  and 
of  labor  in  weeding,  and  the  best  way  is  to  stratify  them  and 
allow  them  to  remain  until  the  first  or  second  spring  before 
sowing. 

Partial  substitutes  for  stratification  are  soaking  and  scald- 
ing the  seeds.  Soaking  may  be  advantageously  practiced 
in  the  case  of  slow  and  hard  seeds  which  are  not  enclosed 
in  bony  shells,  and  which  have  been  allowed  to  become  dry. 
Seeds  of  apple,  locust,  and  others  of  similar  character,  are 


l8  SEEDAGE. 

sometimes  treated  in  this  manner.  They  are  soaked  for  24 
or  36  hours,  and  it  is  commonly  supposed  that  if  they  are 
exposed  to  a  sharp  frost  in  the  meantime,  better  results 
will  follow.  While  still  wet  the  seeds  are  sown.  Scalding 
water  may  be  poured  over  locust  and  other  seeds  to  soften 
their  coverings,  but  seeds  should  not  be  boiled,  as  some- 
times recommended. 

The  germination  of  bony  seeds  is  often  facilitated  by  filing 
or  cutting  away  the  shell  very  carefully  near  the  germ,  or  by 

boring  them.      A  bored  nelumbium  seed  is 

shown  in  Fig.    15.     Moonflower  and  canna 

seeds  are  similarly  treated. 

Treatment  with  various  chemicals  has  been 

recommended  for  the  purpose  of  softening 
15.  Bored  seed,  integuments,  and  also  for  some  power  which 

strong  oxidizing  agents  are  supposed  to  exert 
in  hastening  germination  itself,  but  the  advantages  are 
mostly  imaginary.  Secret  and  patented  "germinator " 
compounds  had  better  be  avoided. 

Pulpy  and  fleshy  coverings  should  be  removed  from 
seeds  before  sowing.  Soft  fruits,  like  berries,  are  broken 
up  or  ground  into  a  pulp,  and  the  seeds  are  then  washed 
out.  This  separation  may  be  performed  immediately  in 
some  cases,  but  when  the  pulp  adheres  to  the  seed,  the 
whole  mass  is  usually  allowed  to  stand  until  fermentation 
and  partial  decay  have  liberated  the  seeds.  The  pulp  will 
then  rise,  in  most  instances,  leaving  the  seeds  at  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel.  Seeds  can  be  liberated  quickly  by  adding  a 
stick  of  caustic  potash  to  each  pail  of  water.  After  the 
mass  has  stood  an  hour  or  so,  the  seeds  can  be  rubbed  out 
easily.  Even  tomato  seeds  can  be  cleaned  with  safety  in 
this  manner.  Seeds  which  have  thin  pulp,  as  the  viburnums 
and  many  haws,  can  be  prepared  by  rubbing  them  through 
the  hands  with  sharp  sand.  Or  the  scant  pulp  of  such  seeds 
may  be  allowed  to  rot  off  in  the  stratification  box.  Fleshy 
coverings  of  hard  and  bony  seeds  may  be  removed  by  mac- 
eration. Allow  them  to  stand  in  water  at  a  temperature  of 


TRANSPORTATION  OF  EXOTIC  SEEDS.          IQ 

about  75°  for  one  to  three  weeks,  and  then  wash  them  out. 
Resinous  coverings  are  sometimes  removed  by  mixing  the 
seeds  with  fresh  ashes  or  lime,  or  by  treating  them  with  lye. 
Hard,  thick-walled  seeds  are  rarely  injured  by  the  decay  of 
the  pulpy  covering,  but  thin-walled  seeds  should  be  cleaned, 
to  avoid  the  possibility  of  damage  arising  from  the  decay  of 
the  pulp. 

Transportation  of  Seeds  from  Abroad.— -The  transporta- 
tion of  certain  kinds  of  seeds  over  long  distances,  especially 
on  sea  voyages,  is  often  beset  with  difficulties.  Thick-meated 
or  soft  seeds  may  become  too  dry  if  stored  in  a  warm 
place  or  too  moist  if  stored  in  a  cool  one.  The  humid  at- 
mosphere of  the  ocean  is  fatal  to  some  seeds  unless  they 
are  well  protected,  and  the  moist  and  hot  climates  of  some 
tropical  countries  destroy  many  seeds  of  cooler  regions  be- 
fore they  can  be  planted,  or  cause  them  to  sprout  in  transit. 
Thin-coated  seeds  demand  dryness  and  air,  and  bony  seeds 
usually  need  moisture  and  a  more  confined  atmosphere. 
Most  seeds  may  be  sent  dry  and  loose  in  coarse  paper 
packages  under  all  ordinary  circumstances ;  but  if  they  are 
to  traverse  very  hot  and  moist  climates,  they  should  be 
sealed  in  tin  cases  or  very  securely  wrapped  in  oiled  paper, 
in  which  case  the  seeds  should  be  thoroughly  dried  before 
being  packed,  and  precautions  taken  to  insure  the  dryness 
of  the  air  in  the  package.  Small  seeds  which  are  liable  to 
become  moldy  may  be  packed  in  finely  powdered  charcoal. 
Apple  and  pear  seeds  are  often  imported  in  this  manner. 
The  seeds  or  fruits  of  woody  plants  require  more  careful 
management.  They  should  generally  be  transported  in 
some  sort  of  stratification.  A  favorite  method  is  to  place 
them  in  boxes  or  jars,  mixed  with  naturally  moist  sand  or 
sawdust,  or  slightly  moist  dead  sphagnum  moss.  Some 
prefer  to  seal  the  packages  hermetically,  but  under  ordinary 
conditions  this  is  unnecessary.  In  transit,  the  packages 
should  be  stored  in  a  medium  and  uniform  temperature. 
Even  acorns,  which  are  often  difficult  to  transport  over  long 
voyages,  may  be  carried  in  this  manner  with  safety.  It  is 


2O  SEEDAGE. 

important  that  the  soil  should  not  be  wet.  Natural  soil 
from  a  dryish  and  loamy  pasture  is  excellent.  In  some 
cases  it  is  better  to  sprout  the  seeds  in  the  native  country 
and  ship  the  seedlings  in  a  closed  or  Wardian  case. 

Sowing. — The  soil  in  which  seeds  are  sown,  ^speciaiiy 
in  indoor  culture,  should  be  such  as  to  allow  of  perfect  drain- 
age and  at  the  same  time  to  hold  moisture.  Good  potting 
soil,  with  a  liberal  allowance  of  sharp  sand,  is  the  best  for 
general  purposes.  Pure  sand  becomes  too  dense,  and  leaf 
mold  alone  is  usually  too  loose  and  open.  A  proper  combi- 
nation of  the  two  corrects  both  faults.  It  is  impossible  to 
describe  a  good  potting  or  seed-bed  soil.  Some  experience 
is  essential  to  the  best  results  in  preparing  it.  It  should  be 
of  such  character  that  when  a  damp  portion  is  firmly  com- 
pressed in  the  hand  it  will  fall  apart  when  released.  It 
should  never  bake.  Good  old  garden  loam,  to  which  an 
equal  quantity  of  sand  has  been  added,  is  usually  a  good  soil 
for  common  indoor  seedage.  There  should  be  no  manure 
in  soil  used  for  seeds  which  produce  a  delicate  growth,  as 
rhododendrons  and  kalmias.  In  all  such  cases,  rotted  sod 
or  leafy  peat  is  an  excellent  medium.  Live  sphagnum  moss 
is  also  a  good  material  upon  which  to  sow  various  heath-like 
seeds,  as  kalmias,  andromedas,  and  the  like.  Soil  should 
be  sifted  and  thoroughly  fined  before  seeds  are  put  into  it. 
Seeds  usually  require  lighter  soil  than  that  in  which  the 
growing  plant  will  flourish.  Cocoanut  fiber  is  sometimes 
used  in  place  of  the  soil,  as  it  holds  moisture,  allows  of 
almost  perfect  drainage,  and  does  not  become  "sour." 
Fine  dead  sphagnum  moss  may  also  be  used.  Orchid  seeds 
are  usually  sown  on  the  live  moss  in  which  the  parent  plant 
is  growing ;  or  they  may  be  sown  on  damp  wood  or  cork. 
(See  under  Orchids,  Chap.  VI. )  Small  seeds,  like  those  of 
cineraria  and  calceolaria,  germinate  well  in  very  old  cow- 
dung  obtained  from  a  pasture,  from  which  the  unctuous 
matters  have  disappeared,  leaving  a  fibrous  remainder. 
But  all  things  considered,  well-prepared  soil  is  the  most 
satisfactory  medium  which  can  be  used  for  most  seeds. 


SOWING    OF    DELICATE    SEEDS.  21 

Seeds  of  aquatic  plants,  which  are  to  be  sown  in  a  pond, 
may  be  placed  in  a  ball  of  clay  and  dropped  into  the  water. 
Water  lily  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  greenhouse  in  sub- 
merged pots  or  pans. 

Shallow  boxes  or  "flats"  and  earthen  seed-pans  and 
lily-pans  are  usually  preferable  to  pots  in  which  to  sow 
seeds.  They  give  more  surface  in  proportion  to  their 
contents,  and  require  less  attention  to  drainage.  If  pots 
are  used,  the  4  to  6-inch  sizes  are  best.  All  delicate 
seeds,  like  tuberous  begonias,  primulas,  gloxinias,  and 
also  spores,  are  generally  sown  in  pots  or  pans,  which 
are  covered  with  a  pane  of  glass.  (See  Figs.  2  and  3.) 

If  delicate  seeds  are  sown  outdoors,  they  should  be  given 
some  protection,  if  possible.  An  ordinary  hotbed  frame 
gives  the  best  results.  In  warm  weather  or  a  sunny  expo- 
sure it  will  be  found  desirable  to  substitute  a  cloth  screen  for 
the  sash.  A  thin  or  medium  water-proof  plant-cloth,  either 
commercial  or  home-made,  is  excellent  for  this  purpose.  It 
may  be  tacked  upon  a  simple  and  light  rectangular  frame 
which  is  strengthened  at  the  corners  by  iron  "  carriage- 
corners."  These  cloth-covered  frames  are  handy  for  many 
purposes,  particularly  for  protecting  and  supplying  some 
warmth  to  seed-pans  and  young  seedlings. 

It  is  essential  that  good  drainage  be  given  all  indoor 
seed-pots  or  seed-beds.  A  layer  of  broken  pots  or  other 
coarse  material  is  placed  on  the  bottom.  Many  growers 
place  a  thin  layer  of  fine  dead  sphagnum  moss  or  of  peat 
over  this  drainage  material,  and  it  is  useful  in  preventing  the 
too  rapid  drying  out  of  the  bottom  of  the  pots.  It  is  particu- 
larly useful  in  isolated  pots  or  small  boxes.  Over  the  moss, 
coarse  siftings  from  the  soil  may  be  placed,  while  on  top  only 
the  finest  and  best  soil  should  be  used.  The  smaller  the 
seeds,  the  more  care  must  be  exercised  in  the  sowing. 

The  proper  depth  for  sowing  varies  directly  with  the  size 

of  the  seed.     The  chief  advantage  of  very  fine  soil  for  small 

seeds  is  the  greater  exactness  of  depth  of  covering  which  it 

allows.    Very  small  seeds  should  be  sown  upon  the  surface, 

c 


22  SKEDAGE. 

which  has  previously  been  well  firmed  and  leveled,  and  then 
covered  with  a  very  thin  layer  of  finely  sifted  soil  or  a  little 
old  and  dead  moss  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  This  covering 
should  be  scarcely  deeper  than  the  thickness  of  the  seeds ; 
that  is,  the  seeds  should  be  barely  covered.  Many  prefer 
pressing  the  seeds  into  the  soil  with  a  block.  Or  if  one  has 
a  close  propagating-box,  the  seeds  may  remain  upon  the 
surface  and  sufficient  moisture  will  be  supplied  from  the 
atmosphere.  Such  fine  seeds  are  rarely  watered  directly,  as 
even  the  most  careful  treatment  would  be  likely  to  dislodge 
them.  The  soil  is  usually  well  watered  before  the  seeds  are 
sown,  or  moisture  may  be  supplied  by  inserting  the  pot  in 
water  nearly  to  its  rim  for  a  few  minutes.  If  water  is  applied 
from  a. rose,  a  thin  cloth  should  first  be  spread  on  the  soil  to 
hold  it.  Celery  seeds,  in  outdoor  beds,  are  often  sown  upon 
a  smoothly  prepared  surface  and  are  then  pressed  in  by 
means  of  the  feet  or  a  board.  Some  cover  to  prevent  evapo- 
ration should  be  given  all  small  seeds.  This  may  be  a  board 
or  a  slate  slab  at  first,  but  as  soon  as  the  plants  appear 
glass  should  be  substituted  to  admit  light.  (See  pp.  3  to  7.) 

Large  seeds  demand  much  less  care  as  to  depth  of  cover- 
ing, as  a  rule.  One-fourth  or  one-half  inch  is  a  good  depth 
for  most  coarse  seeds  indoors.  If  one  wishes  to  gauge  the 
depth  accurately,  the  drills  may  be  made  by  a  planting  stick, 
like  that  shown  in  Fig.  16.  Its  flange  is  made  of  the  required 
thickness,  and  it  is  pressed  into  the  soil  until  the  cap  strikes 
the  surface.  This  is  a  useful  implement  in  seed-testing. 
Another  device  for  regulating  the  depth  of  sowing,  par 

ticularly  in  seed-testing,  is 
the  Tracy  planter,  shown  in 
Fig.  17.  It  consists  of  two 
strips  of  heavy  tin  plate 
about  three  inches  wide, 

hung  upon  two  wire  pivots 
16.  Planting  stick. 

or  hinges  some  two  inches 

long.  At  their  upper  edges,  and  equidistant  from  either 
end,  the  plates  are  joined  by  a  firm  spiral  spring, 


DAMPING-OFF.  2$ 

which  serves  to  throw  the  upper  edges  apart,  and  to 
cause  the  lower  edges  to  join.  The  trough  is  now  filled 
with  the  required  number  of  seeds,  and  is  then  inserted 
into  the  earth  to  a  given  depth,  when  the  fingers  push 
inward  on  the  spring  and  the  trough  opens  and  delivers 
the  seeds. 

Delicate  seeds,  which  are  sown  out  of  doors,  should  be 
given  a  very  accessible  location  because  they  will  need 
constant  watching  in  dry  weather  and  during  heavy  rains. 


17.  Tracy  seed-planter, 

A  border  along  a  wall  is  a  favorite  site  for  a  seed  bed. 
A  French  method  of  preparing  such  a  bed  is  shown  in 
Fig.  1 8  (after  Mottet). 

Damping-Off. — The  gardener  must  always  be  on  the 
lookout  for  the  rotting-off  of  seedlings.  This  damping-off 
is  a  common  ailment  of  young  seedlings  and  cuttings. 
The  stem  becomes  brown  and  constricted  at  or  near  the 
surface  of  the  soil,  and  it  soon  rots  and  falls  over.  The 
top  of  the  plant  often  remains  alive  and  fresh  for  several 
days  after  it  has  fallen.  Various  fungi  are  concerned  in 
this  disorder,  and  these  have  recently  been  discussed  by 
Atkinson  (Bulletin  94,  Cornell  Experiment  Station).  The 
conditions  which  seem  to  particularly  favor  the  develop- 
ment of  these  fungi  are  a  moist  and  close  atmosphere, 
crowding,  and  careless  watering.  Plants  are  particularly 
liable  to  damp-off  if  only  sufficient  water  is  applied  to  keep 
the  surface  moist  while  the  under  soil  remains  dry.  Hot 
sand,  sifted  over  the  plants,  will  check  it,  but  there  is  no 
complete  remedy.  As  soon  as  the  trouble  appears,  give 
more  air  and  prick  out  the  plants. 


24 


SEEDAGE. 


Spores. — Ferns,  lycopodiums  and  selaginellas  are  often 
grown  from  spores.  The  general  conditions  adapted  to  the 
germination  of  seeds  are  also  suitable  for  the  germination  of 

spores ,  but  extra 
care  must  be  taken 
with  the  drainage. 

n^ If  a  pot  is  used,  it 
\</\\'VJr               «F  should  be  half  or 

filled     with 

^  '  ^  ?   drainage    material, 

and  the  soil  should 
be  rendered  loose 
by  the  addition  of 
bits  of  brick,  char- 
coal, cinders,  or 
other  porous  ma- 
terials. The  sur- 
face soil  should  be 
fine  and  uniform. 
Some  place  a  thin 
layer  of  brick  dust 
upon  the  surface, 
in  which  the  spores  are  sown.  It  is  a  frequent  practice  to 
bake  the  soil  to  destroy  other  spores  which  might  cause 
troublesome  growths.  The  spores  should  be  sprinkled 
upon  the  surface  and  should  not  be  covered.  The  pot 
should  be  set  in  a  saucer  of  water,  or  in  damp  moss,  and 
it  should  be  covered  by  paper  or  a  pane  of  glass  if  the 
sun  strikes  it.  Better  results  are  obtained  if  the  pot  or  pan 
is  placed  inside  a  propagating-frame  or  under  a  bell-glass. 
In  place  of  earth,  a  block  or  small  cubes  of  firm  peat  or 
sandstone  may  be  employed.  The  block  is  placed  in  a 
saucer  of  water  and  the  spores  are  sown  upon  its  surface. 
Water  should  not  be  applied  directly  to  the  spores,  as  it 
is  apt  to  dislodge  them. 

The  period  of  germination  varies  in  different  species,  but 
three  to  six  weeks  may  be  considered  the  ordinary  limits. 


18.    Seed-border. 


THE    SOWING    OF    SPORES.  2$ 

While  still  very  small,  the  plantlets  should  be  pricked  out, 
and  for  some  time  thereafter  they  should  be  subjected  to  the 
same  conditions  as  before.  Spores  are  so  exceedingly  small 
and  light  that  the  greatest  care  must  be  exercised  in  growing 
them.  In  order  to  gather  them,  the  fronds  may  be  cut  as 
soon  as  the  sori  or  fruit-dots  turn  brown,  and  stored  in  close 
boxes  or  paper  bags.  When  the  spores  begin  to  discharge 
freely,  the  frond  may  be  shaken  over  the  pot,  or  it  may  be 
broken  up  and  pieces  of  it  laid  on  the  soil. 

NOTE. — For  tables  of  weights  and   longevities  of  seeds  and  quanti- 
ties required  for  given  areas,  consult    The  Horticulturist's  Rule-Book. 


CHAPTER  II. 


SEPARATION  AND  DIVISION. 

I.    SEPARATION. 

SEPARATION,  or  the  multiplication  of  plants  by  means  of 
naturally  detachable  vegetative  organs,  is  effected  by  means 
of  bulbs,  bulbels,  bulb-scales,  bulblets,  corms,  tubers,  and 
sometimes  by  buds. 

Bulbs  of  all  kinds  are  specialized  buds.  They  are  made 
up  of  a  short  and  rudimentary  axis  closely  encased  in  trans- 
formed and  thickened  leaves  or  bulb-scales.  These  thick- 
ened parts  are  stored  with  nutriment  which  is  used  during 
subsequent  growth.  Bulbs  occur  only  in  plants  which  are 
accustomed  to  a  long  period  of  inactivity.  Many  bulbous 
plants  are  peculiar  to  dry  and  arid 
regions,  where  growth  is  impossible 
during  long  intervals.  A  bulb  is, 
therefore,  a  more  or  less  permanent 
and  compact  leaf-bud,  usually  occu- 
pying the  base  of  the  stem  under 
ground  and  emitting  roots  from  its 
lower  portion.  Bulbs  are  conveni- 
ently divided  into  two  great  classes 
— the  scaly,  or  those  composed  of 
narrow  and  mostly  loose  scales,  as 
in  the  lily,  and  laminate  or  tunicate, 
or  those  composed  of  more  or  less 
continuous  and  close-fitting  layers 
or  plates,  as  in  the  onion. 

Bulbs  often  break  up  or  divide  themselves  into  two  or 
(26) 


19.  Bulb  of  Lilium  can- 
didunt 


PROPAGATION    BY    BULBELS.  27 

more  nearly  equal  portions,  as  in  Lilium  candidum,  shown 
one-third  natural  size  in  Fig.  19.  The  parts  may  be  separated 
and  treated  as  complete  bulbs  for  purposes  of  propagation. 
This  division  or  separation  of  bulbs  proceeds  in  a  different 
manner  in  nearly  every  species,  yet  it  is  so  obvious  that  the 
novice  need  not  be  perplexed  by  it.  Almost  any  breaking 
apart  of  these  loose  bulbs,  if  only  a  "heart  "  or  central  axis 
remains  in  each  portion,  is  successful  for  purposes  of  slow 
multiplication  ;  but  when  flowers  are  desired  it  is  usually 
advisable  to  keep  the  bulbs  as  strong  and  compact  as  pos- 
sible. 

Bulbous  plants  multiply  most  easily  by  means  of  bulbels 
— often  also  called  bulbules  and  offsets — or  small  bulbs 
which  are  borne  about  a  large  or  mother  bulb.  In  some 
lilies,  as  Lilium  candidum^  the  bulbels  form  at  the  top  or 
crown  of  the  mother  bulb,  and  a  circle  of  roots  will  be  found 
between  them  and  the  bulb  ;  in  others,  as  L,  speciosum  and 
L.  auratum,  they  form  on  the  lower  part  of  the  flower  stalk- 
In  some  species  the  bulbels  are  few  and  very  large,  or  even 
single,  and  they  bloom  the  following  year.  In  such  cases 
the  bulb  undergoes  a  progressive  movement  from  year  to 
year  after  the  manner  of  rootstocks,  the  bulb  of  one  year 
bearing  a  more  or  less  distinct  one 
above  and  beyond  it,  which  con- 
tinues the  species,  while  the  old 
one  becomes  weak  or  dies.  This 
method  of  bulb  formation  is  seen 
in  the  cut  of  Lilium  pardalinum, 
Fig.  20.  In  the  hyacinth  the  bul- 
bels form  at  the  base  of  the  bulb. 

Bulbels  vary  greatly  in  size  and 
frequency     in     different     species. 
Sometimes  they  are  no  larger  than    20.  Bulb  of  Lilium  parda- 
a  grain  of  wheat  the  first  year,  and  linum  (x%). 

in  other  plants  they  are  as  large  as  hickory-nuts.  In  some 
species  they  are  borne  habitually  underneath  the  scales  of 
the  mother  bulb.  These  bulbels  are  often  removed  when 


28 


SEPARATION    AND    DIVISION. 


si.  Cut  hyacinth  bulb 


the  mother  bulbs  are  taken  up,  and  they  are  usually  planted 
in  essentially  the  same  manner  as  the  bulbs  themselves, 
although  it  is  desirable  to  place  them,  at  least  for  the  first 
year,  in  a  bed  or  border  where  they  may  receive  careful 
attention.  Or,  if  they  are  especially 
small  and  delicate,  they  may  be 
planted  in  pots  or  flats  and  be  treated 
about  the  same  as  single-eye  cuttings. 
In  some  lilies,  the  bulbels  are  allowed 
to  remain  attached,  and  the  whole 
mass  is  planted  in  the  fall  in  close 
drills.  Sometimes  the  larger  lily 
bulbels  may  produce  flowers  the  fol- 
lowing (or  first)  season,  but  they  usu- 
ally require  the  whole  of  the  second 
season  in  which  to  complete  their 
growth.  The  second  fall  they  are 
ready  to  be  permanently  planted.  Bulbels  of  some  plants 
require  even  a  longer  time  in  which  to  mature  into  bulbs. 
Bulbels  are  often  produced  by  an  injury  to  the  bulb. 
Growth  of  stem  and  leaves  is  more  or  less  checked  and  the 
energy  is  directed  to  the  formation 
of  minute  buds,  or  bulbs,  in  the 
same  manner  as  adventitious  buds 
form  upon  a  wounded  stem.  Ad- 
vantage is  taken  of  this  fact  to 
multiply  some  bulbous  plants,  and 
in  the  case  of  the  hyacinths,  at 
least,  the  mutilation  of  bulbs  for 
this  purpose  is  practiced  to  a  com- 
mercial extent.  Hyacinth  bulbs 
are  cut  in  two,  or  are  slashed  in 
various  ways.  The  favorite  method 
is  to  make  two  or  three  deep  transverse  cuts  into  the  base 
of  the  bulb  (Fig.  21).  The  strongest  bulbs  should  be 
chosen,  and  the  operation  is  performed  in  spring  or  early 
summer,  when  the  bulb  is  taken  up.  The  bulbs  are  some- 


22.  Hollowed  hyacinth 
bulb 


ADVENTITIOUS    BULBELS. 


times  hollowed  out  from  the  under  side  for  half   or  more 

of  their  depth.      This  operation  is  sometimes  performed 

later  in  the  season  than  the  other,  and  precaution  should 

be  exercised  that  the  bulbs  do  not  become  too  moist,  else 

they  will  rot.     Hollowed  bulbs  should  be  well  dried  before 

being  planted.     Both  methods  of  preparing  hyacinth  bulbs 

are  shown  in  Figs.  21  and  22,  which  are  adapted  from  the 

Gardener's  Chronicle.     Fig.  23  shows  a  portion  of  the  base 

of  a  cross-cut  bulb,  with  the  adventitious 

bulbels.      The  mutilated  bulbs  are  stored 

during  summer,    and    are  planted  in  fall 

or  spring.      The  wounded  bulbs  produce 

very  little  foliage,  but  at  the  end  of  the 

first  season  the  bulbels  will  have  formed. 

The    bulbels    are    then    separated     and 

planted  by  themselves  in  prepared  beds. 

Several  years  are  required  for  the  bulbels 

to  mature  into  flowering  bulbs.     Some  of 

the  strongest  ones  may  produce  flowering 

bulbs  in   three  years,  but  some  of  them, 

especially  those  obtained  from  the  hollowed  bulbs,  will  not 

mature  short  of  six    years.     This  method  of  propagating 

hyacinths  is  confined  almost  entirely  to  Holland. 

The  scales  of  bulbs  are  often  employed    to  multiply 
scarce  varieties.     From  ten  to  thirty  of  the  thicker  scales 
may  be  removed  from  the  outside  of  the  bulb  without  seri- 
ous injury  to  it.      These  are  treated  in  the  same  manner 
as  single-eye  cuttings.      They  are  usually  han- 
dled  in    flats  or    propagating  -  frames,    and   are 
pressed  perpendicularly  into   a  light  and  loose 
soil  —  half  sharp  sand  and   half  leaf- mold  —  for 
nearly  or  quite  their  entire  length,  or  they  may 
be  scattered  in  damp  moss.      Keep  the  soil  sim- 
ply moist,  and  for  hardy  and  half-hardy  species 
keep  the  temperature  rather  low  —  from  45°  to 
24  Bulb        ^°°'      Slight    bottom   heat    may  sometimes    be 
scale  (xi).  given  to  advantage.     In  from  three  to  ten  weeks. 


SEPARATION    AND    DIVISION. 


a  little  bulbel,  or  sometimes  two  or  more,  will  appear  at 
the  base  of  the  scale,  as  shown  in  Fig.  24.  Late  autumn 
or  early  winter  is  a  proper  time  for  this  operation.  These 
pots  or  flats  may  be  plunged  outdoors  during  summer  if  the 
planting  was  done  in  winter,  or  the  scales  may  be  potted 
off  or  transferred  to  the  open  border  as  soon  as  rootlets 
have  formed.  It  is  the  common  practice  with  most  hardy 
species  to  allow  the  scales  to  remain  in  the  original  flats 
during  summer  and  to  cover  them  the  next  fall,  allowing 
them  to  remain  outdoors  over  winter.  The  succeeding 
spring  they  are  shifted  into  a  bed  or  border,  and  by  the 

next  fall — having  had 
two  summers'  growth 
— most  species  will  be 
ready  for  permanent 
planting  in  the  flower 
border. 

A  bulblet  is  a  small 
bulb  borne  entirely 
above  ground,  usually 
in  the  axil  of  a  leaf  or 
in  the  inflorescence. 
Familiar  examples  oc- 
cur in  the  tiger  lily  and 
in  "  top  "  onions.  In 
the  former  instance, 
the  bulblets  are  direct 
transformations  of 
buds,  while  in  the 
onion  they  are  trans- 
formed flowers.  It  is 
impossible  to  draw  any  sharp  line  of  separation  between 
bulblets  and  buds.  In  some  plants,  certain  buds  detach 
themselves  and  fall  to  the  ground  to  multiply  the  species. 
Sometimes  these  buds  vegetate  before  they  fall  from  the 
plants,  as  in  the  case  of  various  begonias  and  ferns.  For 
purposes  of  propagation,  bulblets  are  treated  in  the  same 


25.  Gladiolus  corm 


CORMS    AND    CORMELS.  31 

way  as  bulbels,  and  like  them,  they  reproduce  the  variety 
upon  which  they  grow.  They  will  develop  into  full- 
grown  bulbs  in  from  one  to  three  years,  according  to  the 
species. 

A  cortn  is  a  bulb-like  organ  which  is  solid  throughout. 
Familiar  examples  occur  in  the  gladiolus  and  crocus.  Cor- 
mous  plants  are  multiplied  in  essentially  the  same  manner 
as  bulbous  species.  As  a  rule,  a  new  corm  (or  sometimes 
two  or  more)  is  produced  each  year  above  the  old  one,  and 
this  commonly  bears  flowers  the  following  season.  This 
renewal  is  well  shown  in  the  gladiolus,  Fig.  25.  The  illus- 
tration shows  a  gladiolus  bottom,  half  size,  when  taken  up 
in  November.  At  the  base  are  seen  the  withered  remains 
of  the  corm  which  was  planted  in  the  spring,  and  above  it 
the  new  corm,  which  will  furnish  bloom  the  following  sea- 
son. A  number  of  cormels  or  "spawn"  have  also  ap- 
peared about  the  base  of  the  new  corm.  These  may  be 
planted  out  in  a  border  or  bed,  and  will  produce  mature 
bulbs  in  one  or  two  seasons.  The  larger  ones,  under 
good  treatment,  will  often  produce  bulbs  an  inch  in  diam- 
eter the  first  season.  Some  growers  keep  the  cormels 
a  year  and  a  half  before  planting  them  out  (that  is,  until 
the  second  spring),  as  they  are  thought  to  vegetate  more 
evenly  under  such  treatment ;  in  this  case  they  should  be 
placed  in  sand  to  prevent  too  great  drying  out. 

Adventitious  cormels  may  be  produced  by  various 
methods  of  wounding  the  mother  corm,  and  this  practice 
of  exciting  them  is  often  necessary,  as  some  varieties  do 
not  produce  cormels  freely.  Each  bud  on  the  top  or  side 
of  the  corm  may  be  made  to  produce  a  separate  corm  by 
cutting  a  deep  ring  around  it,  so  as  to  partly  divide  it.  Or 
the  corm  may  be  directly  cut  into  as  many  separate  pieces 
as  there  are  buds  or  eyes,  after  the  manner  of  cutting  pota- 
toes, but  these  pieces  are  usually  handled  in  flats,  where 
temperature  and  moisture  can  be  controlled.  Almost  any 
injury  to  such  vigorous  corms  as  those  of  the  gladiolus  and 
crocus  will  result  in  the  production  of  cormels.  if  care  is 


32  SEPARATION    AND    DIVISION. 

taken  that  the  corms   do   not  become  so  cold  and  wet  as 
to  cause  them  to  rot. 

2.  DIVISION. 

The  word  division  is  commonly  applied  to  that  phase  of 
separation  in  which  the  parts  are  cut  or  broken  into  pieces, 
in  distinction  to  propagation  by  means  of  parts  which 
naturally  separate  at  the  close  of  the  season  ;  but  no  hard 
and  fast  line  can  be  drawn  between  the  two  operations. 
Whilst  separation  is  mostly  concerned  with  bulb-like  and 
corm-like  organs,  division  operates  mostly  upon  tubers  and 
rootstocks. 

A  tuber  is  a  prominently  thickened  portion  of  a  root  or 
stem,  and  it  is  usually  subterranean.  The  potato,  sweet 
potato  and  dahlia  furnish  good  examples.  Tuberiferous 
plants  are  multiplied  by  planting  these  tubers  whole,  or  in 
many  cases  the  tubers  may  be  cut  into  small  portions,  as 
described  in  Chapter  IV.,  in  the  descriptions  of  cuttings. 
In  hardy  species,  the  tubers  may  be  allowed  to  remain  in 
the  ground  during  winter,  but  they  are  generally  dug  in 
the  fall  and  stored  in  a  dry  and  cold  place,  but  where  they 
will  not  freeze. 

An  offset  is  a  crown  or  rosette  of  leaves,  usually  borne 
next  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  which  in  time  detaches 
itself  and  forms  an  independent  plant.  The  best  examples 
occur  in  the  house-leeks,  plants  which  are  more  familiarly 
known  as  "hen  and  chickens"  and  "man  and  wife." 
These  offsets  take  root  readily,  and  in  propagating  there 
is  no  other  care  necessary  than  to  remove  and  plant  them. 

A  crown  is  a  detachable  portion  of  a  rootstock  bearing 
roots  and  a  prominent  bud.  Rhizomes  or  rootstocks  mul- 
tiply individuals  and  extend  the  distribution  of  the  species 
by  means  of  a  progressive  movement  of  the  crowns.  The 
rootstock  grows  during  summer,  and  at  the  end  of  the  sea- 
son each  branch  develops  a  strong  terminal  bud,  which 
usually  produces  a  flowering  stem  the  following  season. 
The  rootstock  gradually  dies  away  at  its  old  extremity, 


DIVISION. 


33 


and  in  a  few  years  a  single  individual  gives  rise  to  a  con- 
siderable patch.  This  is  well  shown  in  the  common  May- 
apple  or  podophyllum. 

In  some  species  these  crowns 
are  removed  in  the  autumn,  and 
are  planted  and  handled  in  much 
the  same  manner  as  bulbs.  The 
crown  or  '  '  pip  '  '  of  the  lily-of- 
the-valley,  shown  .  in  Fig.  26,  is 
obtained  in  this  manner. 

Rootstocks  may  be  divided 
into  as  many  parts  as  there  are 
eyes  or  buds,  and  each  part  is 
then  treated  as  an  independent 
plant.  Familiar  examples  of 
such  division  are  the  common 
practices  of  multiplying  rhubarb 
and  canna.  A  canna  rootstock, 
or  "stool,"  is  seen  in  Fig.  27. 
The  observer  is  looking  down 
upon  the  top  of  the  stool  ;  and 
the  five  pieces  show  how  the 
operator  has  divided  it.  The 
two  lower  pieces  on  the  left  show 
the  remains  of  the  flower-stalks 
of  the  previous  year.  If  the  variety  were  very  scarce, 
some  of  these  pieces  could  be  again  divided  into  two  or 
three. 

All  perennial  herbs  may  be  multiplied  with  more  or  less 
readiness  by  means  of  simply  dividing  the  crowns.  Most 
bushes  may  be  similarly  treated,  as  lilacs,  many  roses, 
spireas,  and  the  like.  The  general  stock  species  of  herba- 
ceous border  plants  —  as  aquilegias,  hemerocallis,  funkias, 
and  the  like  —  are  generally  grown  in  permanent  small 
areas  by  nurserymen,  and  plants  are  cut  out  of  the  plot 
as  orders  are  received.  If,  however,  the  nurseryman  is 
making  a  special  "run"  on  any  plant,  he  gets  his  stock 


Lily-of-the-valley  crown 


SEPARATION    AND    DIVISION. 


by  dividing  up  the  crowns  or  rootstocks  into  small  por- 
tions, and  then  growing  these  for  a  season  in  specially 
prepared  beds,  or  sometimes  in  pots. 


fj.     Canna  stool,  divided  into  five  plants  ( x  i- 


CHAPTER  III. 


LAYERAGE. 

MANY  plants  habitually  propagate  by  means  of  decum- 
bent shoots  and  runners.  These  shoots  become  more  or 
less  covered  with  earth  or  leaves,  and  roots  are  emitted, 
usually  at  the  joints.  In  many  cases,  the  old  shoots  die 
away  and  an  entirely  independent  plant  arises  from  each 
mass  of  roots.  In  other  plants,  the  shoots  remain  attached 
to  the  parent,  at  least  for  a  number  of  years,  so  that  the 
plant  comprises  a  colony  of  essentially  independent  but 
connected  individuals.  Great  numbers  of  plants  which  do 
not  propagate  naturally  by  means  of  layers  are  readily 
increased  by  this  means  under  the  direction  of  the  culti- 
vator. In  most  cases  it  is  only  necessary  to  lay  down  the 
branches,  cover  them  with  earth,  and  allow  them  to  remain 
until  roots  are  well  formed,  when  the  parts  can  be  severed 
from  the  parent.  Layering  is  one  of  the  simplest  and 
commonest  methods  of  propagation,-  as  the  mother-plant 
nurses  the  layer-plants  until  they  can  sustain  themselves. 
It  is  a  ready  means  of  multiplying  hard-wooded  plants, 
which  do  not  grow  well  from  cuttings. 

All  vines,  and  all  plants  which  have  runners  or  long  and 
slender  shoots  which  fall  to  the  ground,  may  be  multiplied 
readily  by  layerage.  Among  fruits,  the  black-cap  raspberry 
and  dewberry  are  familiar  examples.  The  raspberry  canes 
of  the  current  year  bend  over  late  in  summer  and  the  tips 
strike  the  earth.  If  the  tip  is  secured  by  a  slight  covering 
of  earth,  or  if  it  finds  lodgment  in  a  mellow  soil,  roots  are 
emitted,  and  in  the  fall  a  strong  bud  or  "crown "  or  " eye " 

(35) 


LAYERAGE. 


is  formed  for  next  year's  growth.  The  parent  cane  is  sev- 
ered in  the  fall  or  spring,  some  4  or  6  inches  above  the 
ground,  and  an  independent  plant,  known  as  a  "root-tip," 

as  shown  in  Fig.  28,  is  ob- 
tained. In  this  instance, 
as  in  most  others,  it  is  im- 
material at  what  point  the 
parent  stem  is  severed,  ex- 
cept that  a  short  portion  of 
it  serves  as  a  handle  in 
'J,  carrying  the  plant,  and  also 
>sl  marks  the  position  of  the 
plant  when  it  is  set.  The 
black  raspberry  propagates 
itself  naturally  by  means  of 
these  layers,  and  it  is  only  necessary,  in  most  cases,  to  bring 
the  soil  into  a  mellow  condition  when  the  tips  begin  to  touch 
the  ground,  in  order  that  they  may  find  anchorage.  This 
layering  by  inserting  the  growing  point  has  the  advantage  of 
producing  very  strong  "  crowns  "  or  plants  in  autumn  from 
shoots  or  canes  of  the  same  year,  and  it  should  be  more 
generally  practiced.  Even  currants,  gooseberries  and  many 
other  plants  can  be  handled  in  this  way. 

In  most  cases  of  layerage,  it  is  necessary  to  bend  down 
the  branches  and  to  cover  them.      The  covering  may  be 


28.  Raspberry  tip  (x  1-5). 


29.  Covered  layer  of  viburnum  (x  1-6). 

continuous,  as  in  Fig.  29,  or  it  may  be  applied  only  to  the 
joints  or  restricted  portions  of  the  shoot,  as  illustrated  in 
Fig.  30.  In  either  case  the  covering  should  be  shallow,  not 
exceeding  2  to  5  inches.  If  the  shoot  is  stiff,  a  stone  or  sod 


SERPENTINE    LAYERING. 


37 


may  be  placed  upon  it  to  hold  it  down ;  or  a  crotched 
stick  may  be  thrust  down  over  it,  as  in  the  "pegging 
down"  of  propagators. 

The  strongest  plants  are  usually  obtained  by  securing 
only  one  plant  from  each  shoot,  and  for  this  purpose  the 
earth  should  be  applied  only  at  one  point,  preferably  over  a 
bud  somewhere  near  the  middle  of  the  shoot.  If  the  buds 
are  close  together,  all  but  the  strongest  one  may  be  cut  out. 


jo.  Layered  shoots. 

If  more  plants  are  desired,  however,  serpentine  layering 
may  be  practiced,  as  shown  at  A  in  Fig.  30.  The  shoot  is 
bent  in  an  undulating  fashion,  and  from  every  covered  por- 
tion roots  will  form  and  a  plant  may  be  obtained.  The 
continuously  covered  layer  also  possesses  the  advantage  of 
giving  more  than  one  plant,  but  the  roots  are  apt  to  form  so 
continuously  that  definite  and  strong  plants  are  rarely  ob- 
tained ;  these  rooted  portions  may  be  severed  and  treated 
as  cuttings,  however,  with  good  results.  The  grape  is 
sometimes  propagated  by  serpentine  layering. 

Stiff  and  hard-wooded  plants  do  not  often  "strike"  or 


LAYERAGE. 


root  readily,  and  in  order  to  facilitate  rooting,  the  branch  is 
wounded  at  the  point  where  it  is  desired  that  roots  shall 
form.  This  wounding  serves  to  induce  formation  of  adven- 


31.  Carnation  layer  (x.%). 

titious  buds  at  that  point,  and  to  check  the  growth  of  the 
branch  at  the  tip.  It  is  a  common  practice  to  cut  the  branch 
about  half  in  two  obliquely,  on  the  lower  side.  This  ope- 
ration is  known  as  ' ' tongueing. "  "Ringing"  or  girdling, 
twisting,  notching,  and  various  other  methods  are  employed, 
none  of  which,  perhaps,  possess  any  peculiar  advantages  in 
general  practice.  Some  propagators  cut  all  the  buds  from 
the  covered  portion.  In  this  case  the  free  and  protruding 
end  of  the  layer  is  expected  to  form  the  top  of  the  new 
plant.  "Arching,"  or  very  abrupt  bending,  as  in  serpentine 
layering,  serves  the  same  purpose  and  is  the  only  attention 
necessary  in  most  vines.  A  "tongued"  carnation  layer  is 
shown  in  Fig.  31.  The  layered  stem  is  at  S,  and  the  root  is 
seen  to  have  formed  from  the  tongue.  Thi$  method  of 
propagating  carnations  is  common  in  Europe,  but  the  plant 
is  always  grown  from  cuttings  in  America.  , 


MOUND-LAYERING. 


39 


When  large  numbers  of  plants  are  desired,  as  in  commer- 
cial nurseries,  it  is  often 
necessary  to  cut  back  the 
parent  plant  to  the  ground, 
or  very  nearly  so,  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  many 
shoots  fit  for  layering.  A 
plant  which  is  cut  back  in 
the  spring  will  produce 

shoots  fit  for  layering  the 
33.  Mound-layering  of  gooseberry.     foUowing  spring  .    Qr  SQme 

species  will  produce  them  in  abundance  the  same  year  if 
layers  of  green  or  immature  wood  are  desired.  These  pa- 
rent or  stock  plants  are  called  ' '  stools  ' '  by  nurserymen. 

In  many  species,  layerage  is  performed  to  best  advantage 
by  heaping  earth  over  the  stool  and  around  the  shoots. 
This  is  known  as  mound  or  stool-layering.  The  shoots  send 
out  roots  near  the  base,  and  straight,  stocky  plants  are 
obtained.  The  English  gooseberries  are  almost  exclusively 
propagated  in  this  manner  in  this  country.  Fig.  32  shows 
a  row  of  mound-layered  gooseber- 
ries. The  shoots  are  allowed  to 
remain  in  layerage  two  years,  in 
the  case  of  English  gooseberries, 
if  the  best  plants  are  wanted,  but 
in  many  species  the  operation  is 
completed  in  a  single  season. 
Quinces  and  Paradise  apple  stocks 
are  extensively  mound -layered 
The  practice  is  most  useful  in  33- Layering -pot. 
those  low  plants  which  produce  short  and  rather  stiff 
shoots.  Sometimes  these  layers  are  severed  at  the  end  of 
the  first  season,  and  the  plants  are  grown  in  the  nursery 
row  for  a  year  before  they  are  placed  upon  the  market. 

As  a  rule,  the  best  season  for  making  layers  is  in  spring. 
Rooting  progresses  rapidly  at  that  season.  Many  plants 
"bleed,"  if  layered  very  early  in  the  season.  Hardy 


LAVERAGE. 


shrubs  may  be  layered  in  the  fall,  either  early  or  late,  and 
if  an  incision  is  made, 
a  callus  will  have 
formed  by  spring.  If 
rapid  multiplication  is 
desired,  the  soft  and 
growing  shoots  may 
be  layered  during  the 
summer.  This  opera- 
tion is  variously  known 
as  "summer,"  "her- 
baceous," "green" 
and  "soft"  layering. 
Comparatively  feeble 
plants  usually  result 
from  this  practice,  and 
it  is  not  in  common 
favor. 

In     glass     houses, 
shoots  are  sometimes  layered 
earth  ;    and  the  same 


34.  Pot-layerage. 


in  pots  instead  of  in  the 
is  often  done  with  strawberries  in 
the  field,  giving  the  " pot-grown  plants"  of  the  nursery- 
men. The  French  have  "  layering-pots, "  with  a  slot  in  the 
side  (Fig.  33)  for  the  insertion  of  the  shoot.  In  one  style 
of  pot,  the  slot  extends  from  the  rim  down  the  entire 
length  of  the  side  and  half-way  across  the  bottom  (Fig.  36.) 
Pot- layering,  circumposition,  air-layering  and  Chinese 
layering  are  terms  applied  to  the  rooting  of  rigid  stems  by 
means  of  surrounding  them,  while  in  their  natural  position, 
.with  earth  or  moss,  or  similar  material.  The  stem  is 
wounded — commonly  girdled — and  a  divided  pot  or  box  is 
placed  about  it  and  filled  with  earth  (Fig.  34).  The  roots 
start  from  above  the  girdle,  and  when  they  have  filled  the 
pot  the  stem  is  severed,  headed  back,  and  planted.  Pot-lay- 
ering is  practiced  almost  exclusively  in  greenhouses,  where 
it  is  possible  to  keep  the  earth  uniformly  moist.  But  even 
there  it  is  advisable  to  wrap  the  pot  in  moss  to  check 


AIR-LAYERING. 


evaporation  from  the  soil.      Some  plants,  like  Ficus  elas- 
tica,  can   be  readily  rooted  by  wrapping 
them   with  moss    alone,    if  the    atmos- 
phere     is       sufficiently 
close.       A    paper    cone 
may  be  used  in  place  of 
a  pot  where  the  atmos- 
phere is  not  too  humid, 
as    in  carnation    houses 
(Fig.  35)-      Pot-layering 
is  employed  not  only  for  J6   Layerinf.pot. 
the  purpose  of  multiply- 
ing plants,  but  in  order  to  lower  the 
heads  of  "leggy"  or  scraggly  speci- 
mens.     The  pot   is  inserted   at    the 
required  point  updn  the  main  stem, 
and  after  roots  have  formed  abundantly 
the  top  may  be  cut  off  and  potted  inde- 
pendently, the  old    stump    being    dis- 
carded. 

French    have    various    handy 
ff^  devices  for  facil- 

^  itating    pot-layer- 

/  ing.          Fig.         36        &'  Layering-cup. 

/  shows  a  layering-pot,  provided  with 

/  a  niche    in    the  side  to  receive    the 

/  stem,       and        a 

^_J  flange  behind  for 

37.  Layering-cone.        securing    it     to    a 
support.  The 

pot  shown  in  Fig.  33  is  a  similar  de- 
vice.      Fig.   37  represents  a  layering- 
cone.      It  is   made    of   zinc    or    other 
metal,  usually  4  or  5  inches  high,  and       39-Laycring-cup. 
is  composed  of  two  semi-conical  wings,  which  are  hinged 
on  the  back  and  are  secured  in  front,  when  the  instrument 
is  closed,  by  means  of  a  hinge-pin.     A  cord  is  inserted  in 


The 


LAYERAGE. 


40.    Compound  layering-pot. 


one  side,  with  which  to  hang  it  on  a  support.  A  cup  or 
pot  with  a  removable  side  is  also  used.  This  is  shown 
open  in  Fig.  38  and  closed  in  Fig. 
39.  An  ingenious  compound 
layering-pot  is  shown  in  Fig.  40. 
The  main  stem  or  trunk  of  the 
plant  is  carried  through  the  large 
opening,  and  the  branches  are 
taken  through  the  smaller  pots 
at  the  side.  Kier's  layering-boxes 
or  racks  are  shown  in  Figs.  41 
and  42.  The  trays  are  filled  with 
earth  or  moss,  and  the  branches  are  laid  in  through  the 
chinks  in  the  border  and  are  treated  in  the  same  manner 
as  ordinary  outdoor  layers.  These 
racks  supply  a  neat  and  convenient 
means  of  increasing  greenhouse 
plants  which  do  not  readily  strike 
from  cuttings. 

It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  when 
layers  do  not  give  strong  plants,  they 
can  be  divided  into  portions,  each 
bearing  a  bit  of  root,  and  treated  as 
ordinary  cuttings.  This  is  an  im- 
portant operation  in  the  case  of  rare 
varieties  which  are  multiplied  by 
means  of  soft  or  green  layers,  as 
some  of  the  large-flowered  clematises  and  new  varieties 
of  grapes.  The  small,  weak  plants  are  handled  in  a  cool 
greenhouse  or  under  frames,  usually  in  pots,  and  they  soon 
make  strong  specimens. 

From  what  has  now  been  said  of  layerage,  the  reader 
will  perceive  that  it  may  be  employed  either  for  the  out- 
right production  of  new  plants,  or  as  a  means  of  starting 
or  "striking"  plants.  In  the  latter  case,  the  layer  plants, 
after  having  been  separated  from  the  parent  plant,  are  set 
in  nu?sery  rows  and  there  grown  for  one  season  ;  and  in 


41.    Kier's  layer  ing -rack 


LAYERING-RACKS. 


43 


this  way  stronger  and  more  shapely  plants  may  be  ob- 
tained. As  a  general  statement,  it  may  be  said  that  all 
bush-like  or  vine-like  plants  which  do  not  strike  readily 
from  cuttings,  nor  produce  seeds  freely,  or  of  which  the 
seeds  are  very  slow  to  germinate,  are  usually  multiplied  by 
layerage. 


43.  Kier'-s  circular  layering-rack 


CHAPTER   IV. 


CUTTAGE. 

I.  GENERAL  REQUIREMENTS  OF  CUTTINGS. 

CUTTINGS,  particularly  of  growing  parts,  demand  a 
moist  and  uniform  atmosphere,  a  porous  soil,  and  some- 
times bottom  heat. 

Devices  for  Regulating  Moisture  and  Heat. — In  order  to 
secure  a  uniform  and  moist  atmosphere,  various  propagat- 
ing-frames  are  in  common  use.  Whatever  its  construction, 
the  frame  should  be  sufficiently  tight  to  confine  the  air 
closely  ;  it  should  admit  light,  and  allow  of  ventilation. 
The  simplest  form  of  propagating-frame  is  a  pot  or  box 
covered  with  a  pane  of  glass  (Fig.  2).  To  admit  of  venti- 
lation, the  glass  is  tilted  at  intervals,  or  two  panes  may  be 
used  and  a  space  be  allowed  to  remain  between  them.  A 
common  bell-glass  or  bell-jar  (cloche  of  the  French)  makes 

one  of  the  best  and 
handiest  propagating- 
frames,  because  it 
admits  light  upon  all 
sides  and  is  conve- 
nient to  handle.  It 
is  particularly  service 
able  in  the  propa- 
gation of  tropical  or 
"stove"  plants  ;  and 
it  is  in  universal  use 


44   Hand-glass. 


for  all  difficult  and  rare  subjects  which  are  not  propagated 

in  large  numbers.     A  hand-glass   or  hand-light   (Fig.    44) 

(44) 


PROPAGATING-FRAMES. 


45 


answers  the  same  purpose  and  accommodates  a  larger 
number  of  plants.  A  useful  propagating-box  for  the  win- 
dow garden  or  amateur  conservatory  is  shown  in  Fig.  45. 
A  box  2  or  3  inches  high  is 
secured,  and  inside  this  a 
zinc  or  galvanized  iron  tray 
is  set,  leaving  sufficient 
space  between  it  and  the 
box  to  admit  a  pane  of 
glass  upon  every  side. 
These  panes  form  the  four 
sides  of  the  box,  and  one 
or  two  panes  are  laid 
across  the  top.  The  metal 


45.  Small  propagatmg-box. 


tray  holds  the  soil  and  allows  no  water  to  drip  upon  the 
floor.  One  of  the  best  boxes  for  general  purposes  is  made 
in  the  form  of  a  simple  board  box  without  top  or  bottom, 
and  15  or  18  inches  high,  the  top  being  covered  with  two 
sashes,  one  of  which  raises  upon  a  hinge  (Fig.  46).  Four 
by  three  feet  is  a  convenient  size.  An  ordinary  light  hot- 
bed frame  is  sometimes  constructed  upon  the  bench  of  a 
greenhouse  and  covered  with  common  hotbed  sash.  Prop- 
agating-houses  are  sometimes  built  with  permanent  propa- 
gating-frames  of  this  character  throughout  their  length,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  47.  Such  permanent  frames  are  mostly  used 
for  conifers,  either  from  cuttings  or  grafts  (usually  the  latter) 

and  also  for  grafts  of  rhododen- 
drons(  See  Chapters  V. and  VI.). 
In  all  the  above  appliances 
heat  is  obtained  from  the  sun  or 
from  the  bench-pipes  or  flues  of 
a  greenhouse.  There  are  vari- 
ous contrivances  in  which  the 
heat  is  applied  locally,  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  greater  or 
more  uniform  heat.  One  of  the  simplest  and  best  of  these 
is  the  propagating-oven  shown  in  Fig.  48.  It  is  a  glass- 


Propagating box . 


CUTTAGE. 


47.  Permanent  propagating-frames  in  a  greenhouse. 

covered  box  about  two  feet  deep,  with  a  tray  of  water  be- 
neath the  soil,  and  which  is  heated  by  a  lamp.  A  similar 
but  somewhat  complicated  apparatus  is  illustrated  in  Figs. 
49)  5°>  51-  This  is  an  old  form  of  oven,  which  has  been 
variously  modified  by  different  operators.  Fig.  49  shows 

a  sectional  view 
of  the  complete 
apparatus.  The 
box,  A  A,  is 
made  of  wood, 
and  is  usually 
about  three  feet 
square.  L  is  a 
removable  glass 
top.  B  repre- 
sents a  zinc  or 
galvanized  iron 
tray  whjch  is 
filled  with  earth, 
in  which  seeds 


48.  Simple  propagating-oven. 


are  sown  or    pots    are    plunged.       C   is   a  water  tray,  to 
which  the  water  is  applied  by  means  of  a  funnel  extending 


PROPAGATING-FRAMES. 


47 


49.  Propagating-ovcn. 


through  the  box.  A  lamp,  D,  supplies  the  heat, 
funnel  of  tin,  e  e,  distrib- 
utes the  heat  evenly. 
Holes  should  be  provided 
about  the  bottom  of  the 
box  to  admit  air  to  the 
flame.  A  modified  form 
of  this  device  is  shown  in 
Figs.  50  and  51.  The 
water  tray,  G,  slides  in 
upon  ledges,  so  that  it 
can  be  removed,  and  the 
heat  funnel,  L  D  L,  slides 
in  similarly  and  is  made 
to  surround  the  flame  like  a  chimney.  The  front  side  of 

the  apparatus  is  rempva- 
ble,  and  the  top  of  the 
frame,    K,    is    made    of 
metal.       The    cover    for 
this  apparatus  is  shown  in 
Fig.  51.      The  ends,  a  a, 
are  made  of  wood,  with 
openings,     indicated     by 
the    arrows,    to   allow  of 
50.  Modified  form  of  Fig.  49.          ventilation.        The    front 
and  top,  g  g,  are  made  of  glass.      The  frame-work,  c  c  c, 
is  made  of  metal.      The  cover  is  hinged  on,  or  held  with 

pegs,  1 1,  Fig.  50. 
Chauviere'  s 
propagating- 
oven,  a  French 
apparatus,  is 
shown  in  Fig. 
52.  It  is  essen- 
tially a  minia- 
ture greenhouse.  The  sashes  are  seen  at  c  c,  and  over 
them  is  a  cloth  or  matting  screen  (shown  at  the  right). 


ST.  Cover  for  Fig.  50. 


48 


CU1TAGE. 


The  sides  below  the  sashes  are  enclosed,  preferably  with 
glass.      The  bottom  or  floor  is  movable,  and  it  is  some- 


52.  ChauviZre's  propagating-oven. 

times  divided   into  two  or   three  sections,  to  allow  of  the 
accommodation  of  plants  of   different  sizes  and    require- 


53.  Lecoq's  propagating-oven. 

ments.  These  sections  are  raised  or  lowered,  and  are  held 
by  pegs.  At  the  right  is  shown  a  section  of  floor  elevated, 
and  at  the  left  another  section  occupying  a  lower  position. 
Heat  is  supplied  usually  by  hot  water  in  the  tubes,  d  d.  A 
very  elaborate  circular  French  device,  known  as  Lecoq's 


PROPAGATING    DEVICES.  49 

propagating-oven,  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  53.  It  is  an  interest- 
ing apparatus,  and  is  worth  attention  as  showing  the  care 
which  has  been  taken  to  control  the  conditions  of  vegetation 
and  germination.  It  is  too  elaborate  for  common  purposes, 
and  yet  for  the  growing  of  certain  rare  or  difficult  subjects 
it  might  find  favor  among  those  who  like  to  experiment ; 
and  it  affords  an  accurate  means  of  studying  plant  growth 
under  control.  The  apparatus  is  sold  in  France  for  about 
$6.  All  the  portion  below  the  glass  top,  Py  P,  is  made  of 
earthenware.  The  base,  a  a,  holds  a  lamp,  d ;  e  is  a  water 
reservoir,  to  which  water  is  supplied  by  means  of  the  fun- 
nel, j.  A  vase  or  rim,  b  b,  rests  upon  the  base,  and  upon  it 
a  plate  or  disc,  c  c,  is  fitted.  Above  this  is  the  glass  top,  P  P. 
Air  is  admitted  to  the  apparatus  at  i,  K  K,  and  between 
the  vase  and  plate,  as  at  c  on  the  right.  The  plate  con- 
tains two  concentric  circular  grooves,  g  g  and  h  h.  In 
these  grooves  the  soil  is  placed  or  pots  plunged.  The  heat 
circulates  in  the  valleys  m  and  n  n  n  n,  and  supplies  a  uni- 
form temperature  to  both  sides  of  the  plants. 

Barnard's  propagating-tank,  Fig.  54,  is  a  practicable  de- 
vice for  attachment  to  a  common  stove.  A  similar  appa- 
ratus may  be  attached  to  the  pipes  of  a  greenhouse.  The 
tank  consists  of  a  long  wooden  box  made  of  matched 
boards,  and  put  together  with  paint  between  the  joints  to 
make  it  water-tight.  The  box  should  be  about  3  feet  wide 
and  10  inches  deep,  and  may  be  from  10  to  30  feet  long,  ac- 
cording to  the  space  required.  In  the  middle  of  the  box  is 
a  partition,  extending  nearly  the  whole  length,  and  on  the 
inside,  on  each  side,  is  a  ledge  or  piece  of  moulding  to 
support  slate  slabs  to  be  laid  over  the  entire  surface  of  the 
box.  The  slates  are  supported  by  the  ledges  and  by  the 
central  partition,  and  should  be  fastened  down  with  cement 
to  prevent  the  propagating-sand  from  falling  into  the  tank. 
One  slate  is  left  out  near  the  end,  next  the  fire,  to  enable  the 
operator  to  see  the  water  and  to  keep  it  at  the  right  level. 
On  the  slates  sand  is  spread,  in  which  the  cuttings  may  be 
struck,  the  sand  nearly  filling  the  box.  At  one  end  of  the 


CUTTAGE. 


box  is  placed  a  common  cylinder  stove,  with  smoke-pipe  to 
the  chimney.  Inside  the  stove  is  an  iron  pipe,  bent  in  a 
spiral.  This  coil,  which  is  directly  in  the  fire,  is  connected  by 


54.  Barnard's  propagating-tank. 


pipes  with  the  tank,  one  pipe 
leading  to  one  side  of  the 
partition  and  the  other  to  the 
opposite  side,  as  shown  in  the 
drawing.  If  water  is  placed 
in  the  tank,  it  will  fill  the 
pipes  and  form  a  continuous 
circulating  system  through 
the  pipes  and  up  one  side  of 
the  box  past  the  end  of  the 
partition,  and  down  the  other 
side.  A  fire  in  the  stove  causes  the  water  to  circulate 
through  the  tank  and  impart  to  the  bed  a  genial  warmth. 
There  are  various  tanks  designed  to  rest  upon  the  pipes 
in  a  greenhouse.  The  principle  of  their  construction  is 
essentially  the  same  as  of  those  described  in  previous  pages, 
— bottom  heat,  a  tray  of  water,  and  a  bed  of  soil.  Earthen- 
ware tanks  are  commonly  employed,  but  a  recent  English 
device,  Fig.  55,  is  made  of  zinc.  It  is  about  7  inches  deep, 
and  holds  an  inch  or  two  of  water  in  the  bottom.  A  tray  5 
inches  deep  sets  into  the  tank.  The  water  is  supplied 
through  a  funnel  at  the  base. 

Cuttings  usually  ' '  strike ' '  better  when  they  touch  the 
side  of  the  pot  than  when  they  are  wholly  surrounded  by 
soil.  This  is  probably  because  the  earthenware  insures 
greater  uniformity  in  drainage  than  the  earth,  and  supplies 
air  and  a  mild  bottom  heat ;  and  it  is  possible  that  the 
deflection  of  the  plant  food  towards  the  side  of  the  pot, 
because  of  evaporation  therefrom,  induces  better  growth 


PROPAGATING    DEVICES. 


55    Zinc  propagating-tank. 


at  that  point.     Various  devices  are  employed  for  the  pur- 
pose of  securing  these  advantages  to  the  best  effect.     These 

are  usually 
double  pots, 
in  one  of 
which  water 
is  placed.  A 
good  method 
is  that  rep- 
resented in 
Figure  56, 
which  shows 
a  pot,  b, 
plugged  with 
plaster  of 

Pans  at  the  bottom,  placed  inside  a  larger  one.  The 
earth  is  placed  between  the  two,  drainage  material  occu- 
pying the  bottom,  a,  and  fine  soil  the 
top,  c.  Water  stands  in  the  inner  pot 
as  high  as  the  dotted  line,  and  feeds 
uniformly  into  the  surrounding  soil. 
The  positions  of  the  water  and  soil 
are  frequently  reversed,  but  in  that 
case  there  is  less  space  available  for 
cuttings.  A  double  pot,  with  moisture 
supplied  in  a  surrounding  cushion  of 
sphagnum  moss,  is  seen  in  Fig.  i. 
Neumann's  cutting-pot  is  shown  in 
Fig.  57.  This  contains  an  inverted  pot  in  the  center,  a, 
designed  to  supply  drainage  and  to 
admit  heat  into  the  center  of  the  mass 
of  soil.  A  good  method  of  striking 
difficult  subjects  is  as  follows  :  Fill  a 
saucer  with  moss.  Upon  this  place 
an  inverted  flower-pot.  Insert  the 
57.  Ne«man£s  ™*tinz-  cutting  through  the  hole  in  the  bot- 


56.  Forsyth's  cutting- 
pot. 


52  CUTTAGE. 

torn  of  the  pot,  so  that  it  stands  in  the  moss  and  almost 
touches  the  saucer.      Keep  the  moss  moist. 

Some  kind  of  protection,  commonly  combined  with  bot- 
tom heat,  is  always  given  cuttings  made  from  the  soft  and 
growing  parts.  In  indoor  work,  any  of  the  devices  named 
above  may  be  employed,  but  a  box  like  that  shown  in  Fig. 
46  is  one  of  the  most  useful  for  common  operations.  Or 


58.  Cutting-bench  shaded  with  lath. 

the  greenhouse  itself  may  afford  sufficient  protection,  espe- 
cially if  the  cuttings  are  shaded  when  first  set,  to  check 
evaporation  from  the  plant  and  soil,  and  to  prevent  too 
great  heat.  This  shading  is  usually  supplied  by  whitewash- 
ing the  glass,  or  a  newspaper  may  be  laid  over  the  cut- 
ting-bed for  a  few  days.  A  greenhouse  table  or  bench 
prepared  for  the  growing  of  cuttings  is  known  as  a  "cut- 
ting-bench." If  the  cuttings  become  too  dry  or  too  hot, 


BOTTOM  HEAT  FOR  CUTTINGS.  53 

they  will  wilt  or  "flag."  A  good  cutting-bench  should 
be  near  the  glass,  and  either  exposed  to  the  north  or  else 
capable  of  being  well  shaded.  A  good  bench,  facing  south 
and  shaded  over  the  glass  with  a  lath  screen,  is  illustrated 
in  Fig.  58.  The  details  of  soils  are  discussed  on  the 
following  page. 

In  outdoor  work,  soft  cuttings  are  usually  placed  in  an 
ordinary  coldframe,  and  these  frames  must  be  shaded. 
They  may  be  placed  under  trees  or  on  the  shady  side  of  a 
building,  or  if  they  are  numerous,  as  in  commercial  estab- 
lishments, a  cloth  screen  should  be  provided,  as  shown  in 
Fig-  7,  page  6. 

Bottom  Heat  is  always  essential  to  the  best  success  with 
cuttings.  In  outdoor  work,  this  is  supplied  by  the  natural 
heat  of  the  soil  in  spring  and  summer,  and  it  is  often  inten- 
sified by  burying  hard-wooded  cuttings  bottom  end  up  for 
a  time  before  planting  them.  This  operation  of  inverting 
cuttings  is  often  practiced  with  grapes,  particularly  with  the 
Delaware  and  others  which  root  with  some  difficulty.  The 
cuttings  are  tied  in  bundles  and  buried  in  a  sandy  place, 
with  the  tops  down,  the  butts  being  covered  two  or  three 
inches  with  sand.  They  may  be  put  in  this  position  in  the 
fall  and  allowed  to  remain  until  the  ground  begins  to  freeze 
hard,  or  they  may  be  buried  in  spring  and  allowed  to  remain 
until  May  or  June  and  then  be  regularly  planted.  In  out- 
door cuttage,  the  cuttings  which  are  of  medium  length, 
from  6  to  8  inches,  derive  more  bottom  heat  than  the  very 
long  ones,  such  as  were  formerly  used  for  the  propagation 
of  the  grape.  In  indoor  work,  bottom  heat  is  obtained  by 
means  of  fermenting  manure,  or,  preferably,  by  greenhouse 
pipes.  Cutting-benches  should  have  abundant  piping  be- 
neath, and  in  the  case  of  many  tropical  and  sub-tropical 
species  the  bottom  heat  may  be  intensified  by  enclosing 
the  benches  below,  so  that  no  heat  can  escape  into  the 
walks.  Doors  can  be  placed  in  the  partition  alongside 
the  walk,  to  serve  as  ventilators  if  the  heat  should  become 
E 


54  CUTTAGE. 

too  intense.     In  all  cuttings,  bottom  or  root  growth  should 
precede  top  growth,  and  this  is  aided  by  bottom  heat. 

Soils. — Soil  for  all  cuttings  should  be  well  drained.  It 
should  not  be  so  compact  as  to  hold  a  great  quantity  of 
water,  nor  should  it  be  so  loose  as  to  dry  out  very  quickly. 
It  should  not  "  bake  "  or  form  a  crust  on  its  surface.  As  a 
rule,  especially  for  cuttings  made  of  growing  parts,  the  soil 
should  not  contain  fresh  vegetable  matter,  as  such  material 
holds  too  much  water  and  is  often  directly  injurious  to  the 
cutting,  and  it  is  likely  to  breed  the  fungi  of  damping-off. 
A  coarse,  sharp,  clean  sand  is  the  best  material  for  use 
indoors.  Very  fine  sand  packs  too  hard,  and  should  rarely 
be  used.  Some  propagators  prefer  to  use  fine  gravel,  com- 
posed of  particles  from  an  eighth  to  a  fourth  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  and  from  which  all  fine  material  has  been  washed. 
This  answers  well  for  green  cuttings ;  but  a  propagating- 
frame  should  be  used  to  check  evaporation,  and  attention 
be  given  to  watering,  because  drainage  is  so  perfect  and 
the  material  so  quickly  permeable  that  uniformity  of  treat- 
ment is  thereby  secured.  Damping-off  is  less  liable  to  occur 
in  such  material  than  in  denser  soils.  The  same  advantages 
are  to  some  extent  present  in  sphagnum  moss  and  cocoanut 
fiber,  both  of  which  are  sometimes  used  in  place  of  earth. 
The  "silver  sand "  used  by  florists  is  a  very  clean  and  white 
sand,  which  derives  its  particular  advantages  from  the 
almost  entire  absence  of  any  vegetable  matter.  But  it  is 
not  now  considered  so  essential  to  successful  propagation 
as  it  was  formerly,  and  fully  as  good  material  may  often 
be  found  in  a  common  sand-bank.  Cuttings  which  strike 
strongly  and  vigorously  may  be  placed  in  a  soil  made  of 
light  garden  loam  with  twice  its  bulk  of  sand  added  to  it. 
All  soils  used  for  indoor  cuttage  should  be  sifted  or  screened 
before  using,  to  bring  them  to  a  uniform  texture. 

Hard-wood  cuttings  are  commonly  planted  outdoors  in 
mellow  and  light  garden  loam,  well  trenched.  Only  fine 
and  well-rotted  manure  should  be  applied  to  the  cutting- 


FORMATION  OF  ROOTS  ON  CUTTINGS.          55 

bed,  and  it  should  be  well  mixed  with  the  soil.  In  most 
cases,  a  well-drained  soil  gives  best  results,  but  some  cut- 
tings root  and  grow  well  in  wet  soils,  or  even  in  standing 
water,  as  poplars,  willows,  some  of  the  dogwoods,  plane- 
tree,  and  others. 

The  Formation  of  Roots. — As  a  rule,  roots  arise  most 
readily  from  a  joint,  and  it  is,  therefore,  a  common 
practice  to  cut  off  the  base  of  the  cutting  just  be- 
low a  bud,  as  shown  in  the  grape  cutting,  Fig.  59. 
Sometimes  the  cutting  is  severed  at  its  point  of 
attachment  to  the  parent  branch,  and  a  small  por- 
tion, or  "heel,"  of  that  branch  is  allowed  to  re- 
main on  the  cutting.      This  heel  may  be  nothing 
more  than  the  curved  and  hardened  base  of  the 
cutting  at  its  point  of  attachment,  as  in  the  cornus 
cutting,  Fig.  60.      Sometimes  an  entire  section  of 
the  parent  branch  is  remo  ved  with  the  cutting,  as 
in  the  "mallet"  cuttings  of  grapes,  Fig.  61.      Of 
course,  comparatively  few  heel  or  mallet  cuttings 
can  be  made  from  a  plant,  as  only  one  cutting  is 
obtained  from  a  branch,  and  it  is  advisable,  there- 
fore, to  ' '  cut  to  buds ' '   rather   than  to    ' '  cut  to 
heels;"   yet  there  are  many  plants  which  demand 
a  heel,  if  the  most  satisfactory  results  are  to  be 
obtained.     The  requirements  of  the  different  spe- 
cies in  this  regard  can  be   learned  only  by  expe- 
rience ,     but  it  may  be  said  that  in  general  the 
hardest  or  closest  wooded   plants  require  a    heel 
or  a  joint  at  the  base.       Willows,  currants,  bass-    5<?  Grape 
woods,  and  others  with  like  soft  wood,  emit  roots  cutting(xl/2} 
readily  between  the  buds,  yet  even    in  these  cases  propa- 
gators generally  cut  to  buds. 

Wounds  upon  plants  begin  to  heal  by  the  formation  of 
loose,  cellular  matter  which  gives  rise  to  a  mass  of  tissue 
known  as  a  callus.  This  tissue  eventually  covers  the  entire 
wound,  if  complete  healing  results.  As  a  rule,  the  first 
apoarent  change  in  a  cutting  is  the  formation  of  a  callus 


56  CUTTAGE. 

upon   the  lower  end,  and   it  is   commonly  supposed  that 
this  process  must  be  well  progressed  before  roots  can  form. 

But  roots  do  not  arise 
from  the  callus  itself,  but 
from  the  internal  tissue, 
and  in  many  plants  they 
appear  to  bear  no  relation 
to  the  callus  in  position. 
In  willows,  for  instance, 
roots  arise  from  the  bark 
at  some  distance  from  the 
callus.  Yet,  as  a  matter 
of  practice,  best  results 
are  obtained  from  cal- 
lused  cuttings,  particu- 
larly if  the  cuttings  are 
made  from  mature  wood, 
but  this  is  probably  due 
>to  the  fact  that  consider- 
able time  is  required  for 
the  formation  of  the  ad- 
ventitious buds  which 
give  rise  to  the  roots, 
not  to  any  connection 
between  the  callusing 
and  rooting  processes 
themselves. 

Hard-wood  cuttings 
give  better  results  when 
kept  dormant  for  some 
time  after  they  are  cut. 
They  are  usually  made  in 
the  fall,  and  stored  dur 

60.  Heel  cutting  of  cornus  (xH).          ing    the    wmter    m    gand 

sawdust  or  moss  in  a  cool  cellar,  or  buried  in  a  sandy  and 
well-drained  place.  This,  at  least,  is  the  practice  with 
hard-wood  cuttings  of  deciduous  plants,  like  currants, 


CALLUSING    OF    CUTTINGS.  57 

gooseberries,  grapes,  and  many  ornamental  trees  and 
shrubs.  Hard -wood  evergreen  cuttings,  when  taken  in 
the  fall,  are  usually  set  at  once,  as  their  foliage 
will  not  allow  them  to  be  buried  with  safety; 
but  in  this  case,  the  cuttings  are  kept  "quiet" 
or  dormant  for  a  time,  to  allow  callusing  to 
progress.  If  cuttings  are  buried  so  deep  that 
they  cannot  sprout,  callusing  may  be  hastened 
by  placing  them  in  a  mild  temperature.  Sin- 
gle-eye grape  cuttings  are  sometimes  packed 
between  layers  of  sand  in  a  barrel,  and  the 
barrel  is  set  under  a  forcing-house  bench 
where  the  temperature  is  about  50°.  Eight  or 
ten  inches  of  sand  is  usually  placed  over  the 
top  layer.  In  this  manner,  cuttings  which 
have  been  obtained  in  winter  or  early  spring 
may  be  callused  before  planting  time. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  the  lower  end  oi 
the  cutting,  as  it  stood  upon  the  parent  plant, 
produces  roots,  and  the  upper  end    produces 
leaves  and   shoots,  even   if   the  cutting  is  in- 
verted.     And   if  the  cutting    is    divided   into 
several  parts,  each  part  will  still  exhibit  this 
same  differentiation  of  function.      This  is  true 
even  of  root  cuttings,  and   of  other  cuttings 
which  possess  no  buds.      The  reasons  for  this 
localization  of  function  are  not  clearly  under- 
stood,  although    the    phenomenon    has    often  61,  Mallet 
been  the  subject  of  study.       Upon    this  fact    '*"'**£ 
depends  the  hastening  of  the  rooting  process    gra  * 
in  inverted  cuttings  by  the  direct  application  of  heat  to  the 
bottoms,  and  it  likewise  indicates  that  care  must  be  taken 
to  plant  cuttings  in  approximately  their  natural  direction 
if  straight  and  handsome  plants  are  desired.     This  remark 
applies  particularly  to  horse-radish  "sets,"  for  if  these  are 
placed  wrong  end  up  (even  though  they  are  root  cuttings), 
the  resulting  root  will  be  very  crooked. 


58  CUTTAGE. 

The  particular  method  of  making  the  cutting,  and  the 
treatment  to  which  it  should  be  subjected,  must  be  deter- 
mined for  each  species  or  genus.  Some  plants,  as  many 
maples,  can  be  propagated  from  wood  two  or  three  years 
old,  but  in  most  cases  the  wood  of  the  previous  or  present 
season's  growth  is  required.  Nearly  all  soft  and  loose- 
wooded  plants  grow  readily  from  hard-wood  cuttings, 
while  those  with  dense  wood  are  generally  multiplied  more 
easily  from  soft  or  growing  wood.  Some  plants,  as  oaks 
and  nut-tress,  are  propagated  from  cuttings  of  any  descrip- 
tion only  with  great  difficulty,  although  the  hickories  grow 
rather  freely  from  soft  tip-cuttings  of  roots.  It  is  probable, 
however,  that  all  plants  can  be  multiplied  by  cuttings  if 
properly  treated.  It  often  happens  that  one  or  two  species 
of  a  closely  defined  genus  will  propagate  readily  from 
cuttings  while  the  other  species  will  not,  so  that  the  propa- 
gator comes  to  learn  by  experience  that  different  treatment 
is  profitable  for  very  closely  related  plants.  For  instance, 
most  of  the  viburnums  are  propagated  from  layers  in 
commercial  establishments,  but  V.  plicatum  (properly  Vi- 
burnum tomentosum]  is  grown  extensively  from  cuttings. 

2.     THE    VARIOUS    KINDS    OF    CUTTINGS. 

Cuttings  are  made  from  all  parts  of  the  plant.  In  its 
lowest  terms,  cuttage  is  a  division  of  the  plant  itself  into 
two  or  more  nearly  equal  parts,  as  in  the  division  of  crowns 
of  rhubarb,  dicentra,  and  most  other  plants  which  tend  to 
form  broad  masses  or  stools.  This  species  of  cuttage  is 
at  times  indistinguishable  from  separation,  as  in  the  divid- 
ing of  lily  bulbs  (page  27),  and  at  other  times  it  is  essen- 
tially the  same  as  layerage,  as  in  the  dividing  of  stools 
which  have  arisen  from  suckers  or  layers.  This  breaking 
or  cutting  up  of  the  plants  into  two  or  more  large  parts 
which  are  already  rooted  is  technically  known  as  Division, 
and  is  discussed  in  Chapter  II.  It  is  only  necessary,  in 
dividing  plants,  to  see  that  one  or  more  buds  or  shoots 


CUTTINGS    OF    TUBERS.  59 

remain  upon  the  portions,  and  these  portions  are  then 
treated  in  the  same  manner  as  independent  mature  plants 
are,  or  sometimes,  when  the  divisions  are  small  and  weak, 
they  may  be  handled  for  a  time  in  a  frame  or  forcing- 
house  in  the  same  manner  as  ordinary  cuttings. 

Cuttings  proper  may  be  divided  into  four  general 
classes,  with  respect  to  the  part  of  the  plant  from  which 
they  are  made  :  i,  of  tubers;  2,  of  roots  and  rootstocks  ; 
3,  of  stems ;  4,  of  leaves.  All  these  forms  of  cuttings 
reproduce  the  given  variety  with  the  same  degree  of  cer- 
tainty that  grafts  or  buds  do. 

Tuber  Cuttings.  —  Tubers  are  thickened  portions  of 
either  roots  or  stems,  and  tuber  cuttings,  therefore,  fall 
logically  under  those  divisions ;  but  they  are  so  unlike 
ordinary  cuttings  in  form  that  a  separate  classification  is 
desirable.  Tubers  are  stored  with  starch,  which  is  de- 
signed to  support  or  supply  the  plant  in  time  of  need. 
Tuber  cuttings  are,  therefore,  able  to  support  themselves 
for  a  time  if  they  are  placed  in  conditions  suited  to  their 
vegetation.  Roots  rarely  arise  from  the  tubers  themselves, 
but  from  the  base  of  the  young  shoots  which  spring  from 
them.  This  fact  is  familiarly  illustrated  in  the  cuttings  of 
Irish  and  sweet  potatoes.  The  young  sprouts  can  be 
removed  and  planted  separately,  and  others  will  arise 
from  the  tuber  to  take  their  places.  This  practice  is  em- 
ployed sometimes  with  new  or  scarce  varieties  of  the  Irish 
potato,  and  three  or  four  crops  of  rooted  sprouts  can  be 
obtained  from  one  tuber  The  tuber  is  cut  in  two  length- 
wise, and  is  then  laid  in  damp  moss  or  loose  earth  with  the 
cut  surface  down,  and  as  soon  as  the  sprouts  throw  out 
roots  sufficient  to  maintain  them  they  are  severed  and 
potted  off.  Sweet  potatoes  are  nearly  always  propagated 
in  this  manner. 

In  making  tuber  cuttings,  at  least  one  eye  or  bud  is 
left  to  each  piece,  if  eyes  are  present ;  but  in  root-tubers, 
like  the  sweet  potato,  there  are  no  buds,  and  it  is  only 
necessary  to  leave  upon  each  portion  a  piece  of  the  epider- 


6O  CUTTAGE. 

mis,  from  which  adventitious  buds  may  develop.  The 
pseudo-bulbs  of  some  orchids  are  treated  in  this  manner, 
or  the  whole  bulb  is  sometimes  planted.  A  shoot,  usually 
termed  an  off-shoot,  arises  from  each  pseudo-bulb  or  each 
piece  of  it,  and  this  is  potted  off  as  an  independent  plant. 
(See  Orchids,  in  Chapter  VI.) 

Cuttings  made  from  the  ordinary  stems  of  some  tuber- 
iferous  plants  will  produce  tubers  instead  of  plants.  This 
is  the  case  with  the  potato.  The  stem  cutting  produces 
a  small  tuber  near  its  lower  extremity,  or  sometimes  in 
the  axil  of  a  leaf  above  ground,  and  this  tuber  must  be 
planted  to  secure  a  new  plant.  Leaf  cuttings  of  some 
tuberiferous  or  bulbiferous  plants  produce  little  tubers  or 
bulbs  in  the  same  way  (see  the  gloxinia,  Fig.  81). 
Hyacinth  leaves,  inserted  in  sand  in  a  frame,  will  soon 
produce  little  bulblets  at  their  base,  and  these  can  be  re- 
moved and  planted  in  the  same  manner  as  the  bulbels 
described  in  Chapter  II. 

Many  tubers  or  tuber-like  portions,  which  possess  a 
very  moist  or  soft  interior  and  a  hard  or  close  covering, 
vegetate  more  satisfactorily  if  allowed  to  dry  for  a  time 

before  planting.  The 
pseudo  -  bulbs  of  orchids, 
crowns  of  pine-apples,  and 
cuttings  of  cactuses  are 
examples.  Portions  of 

62.  Root  cutting  of  blackberry  (x}6).  ,  , 

cactuses    and    pine-apples 

are  sometimes  allowed  to  lie  in  the  sun  from  two  to  four 
weeks  before  planting.  This  treatment  dissipates  the 
excessive  moisture,  and  induces  the  formation  of  adven- 
titious buds. 

Root  Cuttings.  —  Many  plants  can  be  multiplied  with 
ease  by  means  of  short  cuttings  of  the  roots,  particularly 
all  species  which  possess  a  natural  tendency  to  "sucker" 
or  send  up  sprouts  from  the  root.  All  rootstocks  or 
underground  stems  can  be  made  into  cuttings,  as  ex- 
plained under  Division,  in  Chapter  II.;  but  true  root  cut- 


CUTTINGS    OF    ROOTS. 


61 


*/     / 


tings  possess  no  buds  whatever,  the  buds  developing  after 
the  cutting  is  planted.  Roots  are  cut  into  pieces  from  i  to 

3  inches  long,  and 
are  planted  hori- 
zontally in  soil  or 
moss.  These  cut- 
tings thrive  best 
with  bottom  heat, 
but  blackberries 
and  some  other 
plants  grow  fairly 
Well  with  ordi- 
nary outdoor 
treatment.  A 

root  cutting  of 
the  blackberry  is 
shown  in  Fig.  62. 
(See  Blackberry, 

63    Root  cutting  of  dracezna  (x%).  in     Chapter    VI.) 

A   growing    dra- 

caena  root  cutting  is  exhibited  in  Fig.  63.  The  cuttings 
of  this  plant  are  handled  in  a  propagating-frame  or  on  a 
cutting-bench  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  The  bouvardias  and 
many  other  plants  are  grown  in  the  same  manner.  Many 
of  the  fruit  trees,  as  peach,  cherry,  apple  and  pear,  can  be 
grown  readily  from  these  short  root  cuttings  in  a  frame. 
Among  kitchen  garden  plants,  the  horse-radish  is  the 
most  familiar  example  of  propagation  by  root  cuttings. 
The  small  side  roots,  a  fourth  inch  or  so  in  diameter,  are 
removed  when  the  horse-radish  is  dug  in  fall  or  spring, 
and  are  cut  into  4  to  6-inch  lengths,  as  seen  in  Fig.  64. 
These  cuttings  are  known  as  "sets"  among  gardeners. 
(See  horse-radish,  Chapter  VI.)  When  the  crowns  of 
horse-radish  are  cut  and  used  for  propagation,  the  opera- 
tion falls  strictly  under  division,  from  the  fact  that  buds  or 
eyes  are  present ;  and  the  same  remark  applies  to  rhubarb, 


62  CUTTAGE. 

which,  however,  is  not  propagated   by  true  root  cuttings. 

Whilst  root  cuttings  perpetuate  the  variety,  they  do  not 

always  transmit  variegations.     For  example,  the  variegated 


64.  Horse-radish  root  cuttings 


prickly  comfrey  does  not  always  come  true  from  root  cut- 
tings. If  the  top  is  a  graft,  of  course  the  root  cutting  will 
reproduce  the  stock,  unless  the  given  roots  may  have 
started  from  the  cion.  Thus  the  roots  of  dwarf  pears  may 
be  either  quince  from  the  stock,  or  pear  from  the  cion. 

Stem  Cuttings.  —  Cuttings  of  the  stem  divide  them- 
selves into  two  general  classes  :  those  known  as  cuttings  of 
the  ripe,  mature  or  hard  wood,  and  cuttings  of  the  green, 
immature  or  soft  wood.  The  two  classes  run  into  each 
other,  and  no  hard  and  fast  line  can  be  drawn  between 
them. 

Hard-wood  cuttings  are  made  at  any  time  from  late 
summer  to  spring.  It  is  advisable  to  make  them  in  the 
fall,  in  order  to  allow  them  to  callus  before  the  planting 
season,  and  to  forestall  injury  which  might  result  to  the 
parent  plant  from  a  severe  winter.  They  may  be  taken  as 
early  as  August,  or  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  mature,  and 
be  stripped  of  leaves.  Callusing  can  then  take  place  in 
time  to  allow  of  fall  planting.  Or,  the  cuttings  taken  in 
early  fall  may  be  planter3  immediately,  and  be  allowed  to 
callus  where  they  stand.  All  fall  cutting-beds  should  be 
mulched,  to  prevent  the  heaving  of  the  cuttings.  As  a 
rule,  however,  hard-wood  cuttings  are  buried  on  a  sandy 


LENGTHS    OF    CUTTINGS.  63 

knoll  or  are  stored  in  moss,  sand  or  sawdust  in  a  cellar 
until  spring.     (See  page  56.) 

There  is  no  general  rule  to  govern  the  length  of 
hard-wood  cuttings.  Most  propagators  prefer  to 
make  them  6  to  10  inches  long,  as  this  is  a  conve- 
nient length  to  handle,  but  the  shorter  length  is 
preferable.  Two  buds  are  always  to  be  taken, 
one  bud  or  one  pair  at  the  top  and  one  at  the 
bottom,  but  in  "short-jointed"  plants  more  are 
obtained.  Sometimes  all  but  the  top  buds  are  re- 
moved to  prevent  the  starting  of  shoots  or  sprouts 
from  below  the  soil.  Grape  cuttings  are  now 
commonly  cut  to  two  or  three  buds  (Fig.  59),  two 
being  the  favorite  number  for  most  varieties.  (See 
grape,  Chapter  VI.)  Currant  and  gooseberry  cut- 
tings (Fig.  65)  usually  bear  from  6  to  10  buds. 
All  long  hard-wood  cuttings  are  set  perpendicu- 
larly, or  nearly  so,  and  only  one  or  two  buds  are 
allowed  to  stand  above  the  surface. 

When  the  stock  is  rare,  cuttings  are  made  of 
single  eyes  or  buds.  This  is  particularly  the  case 
with  the  grape  (see  Chapter  VI.),  and  currants  and 
many  other  plants  are  occasionally  grown  in  the 
same  manner.  Fig.  66  shows  a  single-eye  grape 
cutting.  Such  cuttings,  whatever  the  species,  are 
commonly  started  under  glass  with  bottom  heat, 
either  upon  a  cutting-bench  or  in  a  hotbed,  being 
planted  an  inch  or  so  deep  in  a  horizontal  position, 
with  the  bud  up.  The  soil  should  be  kept  uni- 
formly moist,  and  when  the  leaves  appear  the 
plants  should  be  frequently  sprinkled.  In  from  30 
to  40  days  the  plants  are  ready  to  pot  off.  Single- 
eye  cuttings  are  usually  started  about  three  or  four 
months  before  the  season  is  fit  for  outdoor  plant-  45-  Cur- 
Ing,  or  about  February  in  the  northern  states. 
The  most  advisable  method  of  treatment  varies 
with  the  season  and  locality,  as  well  as  with  the  species  or 


64  CUTTAGE. 

variety.  It  is  well  known,  for  instance,  that  the  Delaware 
grape  can  be  propagated  more  easily  in  some  regions  than 
in  others.  A  common  style  of  single-eye  cutting  is  made 

with  the  eye  close 
to  the  top  end,  and 
a  naked  base  of  an 
inch  or  two.  This 

66.  Single-eye  graPe  cuttin?  (x/3). 


soil  perpendicularly,  with  the  eye  just  above  the  surface. 
It  is  much  used  for  a  variety  of  plants. 

Many  coniferous  plants  are  increased  by  cuttings  on  a 
large  scale,  especially  retinosporas,  arbor-vitaes,  and  the 
like.  Cuttings  are  made  of  the  mature  wood,  which  is 
planted  at  once  (in  autumn)  in  sand  under  cover,  usually 
in  a  cool  greenhouse  (Fig.  67).  Most  of  the  species  root 
slowly,  and  they  often  remain  in  the  original  flats  or 
benches  a  year,  but  their  treatment  is  usually  simple.  In 
some  cases  junipers,  yews  and  Cryptomeria  Japonica  will 
not  make  roots  for  nearly  twelve  months,  keeping  in  good 
foliage,  however,  and  ultimately  giving  good  plants.  They 
are  always  grown  in  shaded  houses  or  frames,  and  some- 
times in  inside  propagating-frames  (Fig.  47).  (For  more 
explicit  directions,  see  Thuya  and  Reti- 
nospora,  in  Chapter  VI.) 

Most  remarkable  instances  of  prop- 
agation by  means  of  portions  of  stems 
are  on  record.  Chips  from  a  tree 
trunk  have  been  known  to  produce 
plants,  and  the  olive  is  readily  in- 
creased by  knots  or  excrescences 
formed  upon  the  trunks  of  old  trees. 
These  excrescences  occur  in  many 
plants,  and  are  known  as  knaurs.  *?.  Spru 
They  are  often  abundant  about  the  base  of  large  plane- 
trees,  but  they  are  not  often  used  for  purposes  of  propa- 
gation. Whole  trunks  will  sometimes  grow  after  having 
been  cut  for  many  months,  especially  of  such  plants  as 


CUTTINGS    OF    GROWING    WOOD. 


65 


those  made  from  the 

\ 


cactuses,  many  euphorbias  and  yuccas.  Sections  of  these 
spongy  trunks  will  grow,  also.  Truncheons  of  cycad 
trunks  may  also  give  rise  to  plants  (see  Chapter  VI.). 
Even  saw-logs  of  our  common  trees,  as  elm  and  ash,  will 
sprout  while  in  the  "boom,"  or  water. 

Green-wood  cuttings  are  more  commonly  employed  than 
those  from  the  mature  wood,  as  they  "strike"  more 
quickly,  they  can  be  handled  under  glass  in  the  winter,  and 
more  species  can  be  propagated  by  them  than  by  hard-wood 
cuttings.  "Slips"  are  green-wooded  cuttings,  but  the  term 
is  often  restricted  to  designate  those  which  are  made  by 
pulling  or  "slipping"  off  a  small  side-shoot,  and  it  is  com- 
monly applied  to  the  multiplication  of  plants  in  window- 
gardens.  All  soft-wooded  plants  and  many  ornamental 
shrubs  are  increased  by  green  cuttings.  There  are  two  gen- 
eral classes  of  green-wood  cuttings  :  those  made  from  the 
soft  and  still  growing  wood ;  and 
nearly  ripened  green  wood, 
as  in  Azalea  Indica,  oleander 
ficus,  etc.  House  plants,  as 
geraniums,  coleuses,  carna- 
tions, fuchsias,  and  the  like, 
are  grown  from  the  soft 
young  wood,  and  many 
harder- wooded  plants  are 
grown  in  the  same  way.  Sometimes 
true  hard  wood  is  used,  as  in 
camellia. 

In  making  cuttings  from  soft  and 
growing  shoots,  the  first  thing  to  learn 
is  the  proper  texture  or  age  of  shoot. 
A  very  soft  and  flabby  cutting  does 
not  grow  readily,  or  if  it  does  it  is 
particularly  liable  to  damp-off,  and  it 
usually  makes  a  weak  plant.  Too  old  wood  is  slow  to 
root,  makes  a  poor,  stunted  plant,  and  is  handled  with  diffi- 
culty in  many  species.  The  ordinary  test  for  beginners 


6S- 


Tough  and  brittle 


66 


COTTAGE. 


is  the  manner  in  which  the  shoot  breaks.     If,  upon  being 
bent,  the  shoot  snaps  off  squarely  so  as  to  hang  together 

with  only  a  bit  of 
bark,  as  in  the  upper 
break  in  Fig.  68,  it 
is  in  the  proper  con- 
dition for  cuttings ; 
but  if  it  bends  or 
simply  crushes,  as  in 
•the  lower  portion  of 
the  figure,  it  is  either 
too  old  or  too  young 

69.  Soft  cuttings  (x/3)  for        good        results 

The  tips  of  the  shoots  of  soft-wooded  plants  are  usually 
employed,  and  all  or  a  portion 
of  the  leaves  are  allowed  to 
remain.  The  cuttings  are  in- 
serted in  sharp  sand  to  a  suffi- 
cient depth  to  hold  them  in 
place,  and  the  atmosphere  and 
soil  must  be  kept  moist  to  pre- 
vent wilting  or 
"flagging."  The 
cuttings  should 

also  be  shaded  for  the  first  week  or  two.  It 
is  a  common  practice  to  cover  newly  set  cut- 
tings with  newspapers  during  the  heat  of  the 
day.  A  propagating-frame  is  often  employed. 
Soft  cuttings  are  commonly  cut  below  a  bud 
or  cut  to  a  heel,  but  this  is  unnecessary  in 
easily  rooted  plants  like  geranium,  coleus, 
heliotrope,  etc.  Fig.  69  shows  an  oleander 
..  cutting  at  a,  a  carnation  at  b.  and  a  geranium 

•71.    One  style  of 

chrysanthe-  at  c.     A  coleus  cutting  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  70. 
(x*H)  CUttmg  Many  growers  prefer  to  make  a  larger  cutting 
of  some  firm-wooded  plants,  like  chrysanthe- 
mums, as  shown  in  Fig.  71. 


70.   Coleus  cutting 


CUTfltfGS    OF    GROWING 


Sometimes  the  growth  is  so  short  or  the  stock  so  scarce 
that  the  cutting  cannot  be  made  long  enough  to  hold  itsell 
in  the  soil.  In  such  case  a  toothpick  or  splinter  is 
tied  to  the  cutting  to  hold  it  erect,  as  in  the  cactus 
cutting,  Fig.  72,  or  the  geranium  cutting,  Fig.  73. 
In  the  window  garden,  soft  cuttings  may  be  started 
in  a  deep  plate  which  is  filled  half  or  two-thirds 
full  of  sand  and  is  then  filled  to  the  brim  with 
water,  and  not  shaded  ;  this  method,  practiced  on 
a  larger  scale,  is  sometimes  useful  during  the  hot 
summer  months.  If  bottom  heat  is  desired,  the 
plate  may  be  set  upon  the  back  part  of  the  kitchen 
stove.  Oleanders  usually  root  best  when  mature 
shoots  are  placed  in  bottles  of  water.  Refractory 
subjects  may  be  inserted  through  the  hole  in  the 
bottom  of  an  inverted  flower-pot,  as  explained  on 
pages  51  and  5*. 

Cuttings  from  the  nearly  cutting 
mature  green  wood  are  em-  Jf/f  n  //* 
ployed  for  hard-wooded  UM). 
trees  and  shrubs,  as  diervillas  (wei- 
gela),  roses,  hydrangeas,  lilacs,  etc. 
They  are  cut  in  essentially  the  same 
manner  as  the  hard-wood  cuttings 
described  on  page  55.  They  are  often 
taken  in  summer,  when  the  buds  have 
developed  and  the  wood  has  about 
attained  its  growth.  They  are  cut  to 
two  to  four  or  five  buds,  and  are 
planted  an  inch  or  two  deep  in  shaded 
frames.  They  are  kept  close  for 
some  days  after  setting,  and  the  tops 
are  sprinkled  frequently.  Care  must 
be  taken  not  to  set  them  too  deep  ; 
they  are  rarely  put  in  over  an  inch,  if 


7J.    Cutting  held  by 
toothpick 


the  cutting  is  six  or  seven  inches  long. 

"June-struck    cuttings"  are  sometimes  advantageously 


68 


CUTTAGE. 


made ;  here  the  young  shoots  of  hardy  shrubs  are  taken, 
when  about  2  to  3  inches  long,  the  leaves  partly  re- 
moved, and  they  are  planted  under 
glass.  Several  weeks  are  required  for 
rooting,  but  good  plants  are  obtained, 
which,  when  wintered  in  a  coldframe, 
can  be  planted  out  in  beds  the  next 
spring.  Great  care  must  be  given 
to  shading  and  watering.  Hydrangea 
paniculata  var.  grandiflora  and  Akebia 
quinata  are  examples ;  or  any  deutzia 
or  more  easily 
handled  plant 
of  which  stock 
is  scarce  may 
be  cited. 

Part  of  the 
leaves  are  re- 
moved, as  a 
rule,  before 
these  firm- 
wooded  cuttings  are  set,  as  shown 
in  the  rose  cutting,  Fig.  74,  and 
the  hydrangea  cutting,  Fig.  75. 
This  is  not  essential,  however,  but 
it  lessens  evaporation  and  the  ten- 
dency to  "  flag  "  or  wilt.  In  most 
species  the  top  can  be  cut  off  the 
cutting,  as  seen  in  Figs.  60  and 
75,  but  in  other  cases  it  seriously 
injures  the  cutting.  Weigelas  are 
likely  to  suffer  from  such  behead- 
ing ;  an  unusually  large  callus  75-  Hydrangea  cuttin 
forms  at  the  bottom,  but  the  leaves  shrivel  and  die. 
This  frequently  occurs  in  what  some  nurserymen  call  "  end 
growers,"  among  which  may  be  mentioned  weigelas  (prop- 
erly diervillas),  the  shrubby  altheas,  Cercis  Japonica,  and 


74.  Rose  cutting  ( 


CUTTINGS    OF    RIPENING    WOOD. 


69 


such   spireas  as   61    crat&gifolia,  S.  rotundifolia  var.  albat 

and     6".      Cantonensis 

( S.    Reevesii   of    the 

trade),    var.     robusta. 

The  reader  must  not 

suppose,  however,  that 

all    rose    cuttings  are 

made  after  the  fashion 

of  Fig.    74,  although 

that  is  a  popular  Style.  /I       76-    Single-joint  rose 

Tea  roses,  and  other  «  *****  (x  25)' 

forced  kinds,  are  very 

largely  propagated  from  softer  wood   cut  to  a  single  eye, 

with  most  or  all  of  the  leaf  left  on  (Fig.  76). 

These  firm-wood  cuttings,  about  two  inches  long,  are 
often  made  in  the  winter  from  forced  plants.  Cuttings 
taken  in  February,  in  the  north,  will  be  ready  to  transfer 
to  borders  or  nursery  beds  when  spring  opens.  Stout, 
well-rooted  stock-plants  are  used  from  which  to  obtain 
the  cuttings,  and  they  are  cut  back  when  taken  to  the 
house  in  the  fall,  in  order  to  induce  a  good  growth.  Many 


77.   Young  plants  from  a  leaf  of  Bryophyllum  calycinum 


CUTTAGE. 


hardy  shrubs  can  be  easily  propagated  in  this  way  when 
the  work  is    difficult  or    unhandy  in  the  open  air:  e.  g,, 


78.  Begonia  leaf  cutting  (x%). 

Spircea  Cantonensis  (S.  Reevesii  of  the  catalogues),  and 
.SI,  Van  Houttei,  the  roses  and  the  like.  Stock  plants  of 
the  soft  species,  like  coleus,  lantanas  and  geraniums,  are 
obtained  in  like  manner. 

Leaf  Cuttings.  —  Many  thick  and  heavy  leaves  may  be 
used  as  cuttings.  Leaf  cuttings  are  most  commonly  em- 
ployed in  the  showy-leaved  begonias,  in  succulents,  and 
in  gloxinias,  but  many  plants 
can  be  propagated  by  them. 
Even  the  cabbage  can  be 
made  to  grow  from 
leaf  cuttings.  The 
bryophyllum  is  one 
of  the  best  plants 
for  showing  the  pos- 
sibilities of  propaga- 
tion by  leaves.  If  ?9  An  vpright  begonia  leaf  cutting 
one  of  the  thick 
leaves  is  laid  upon  moss  or  sand  in  a  moist  atmosphere, 
a  young  plant  will  start  from  nearly  every  pronounced 
angle  in  the  margin  (Fig.  77).  In  Rex  begonias,  also,  the 


CUTTINGS    OF    LEAVES. 


whole  leaf  may  be  used,  as  shown  in  Fig.  78.  It  is  sim- 
ply laid  upon  moist  sand  in  a  frame  and  held  down  by 
splinters  thrust  through  the 
ribs.  The  wound  made  by 
the  peg  induces  the  forma- 
tion of  roots,  and  a  young 
plant  arises.  A  half  dozen 
or  more  plants  can  be  ob- 
tained from  one  leaf.  Some 
operators  cut  off  the  ribs, 
instead  of  wounding  them 
with  a  prick.  Many  gar- 
deners prefer  to  divide  the 
leaf  into  two  nearly  equal 
parts,  and  then  set  each 
part,  or  the  better  one.  up- 
right in  the  soil,  the  severed 
edge  being  covered.  This 
is  shown  in  Fig.  79.  Fewer 
plants — often  only  one — are 
obtained  in  this  manner,  but 
they  are  strong. 

When  stock  is  scarce  the  begonia  leaf  may  be  cut  into 
several  fan-shaped  pieces.  The  whole  leaf  may  be  divided 
into  as  many  triangular  portions  as  can  be  secured  with  a 
portion  of  the  petiole,  a  strong  rib,  or  a  vein  attached  at  the 
base  ;  these  pieces,  inserted  and  treated  like  coleus  cuttings, 
will  root  and  make  good  plants  within  a  reasonable  time, 
say  six  months.  This  form  of  cutting  should  be  two  to 
three  inches  long  by  an  inch  or  inch  and  one-half  wide. 
Ordinarily,  in  this  style  of  leaf  cutting,  the  petiole  or  stalk  is 
cut  off  close  to  the  leaf  and  the  lower  third  or  fourth  of  the 
leaf  is  then  cut  off  by  a  nearly  straight  cut  across  the  leaf. 
This  somewhat  triangular  base  is  then  cut  into  as  many 
wedge-shaped  pieces  as  there  are  ribs  in  the  leaf,  each  rib 
forming  the  center  of  a  cutting.  The  point  of  each  cutting 
should  contain  a  portion  of  the  petiole.  The  points  of  these 


72 


CUTTAGE. 


triangular  portions  are  inserted  in  the  soil  a  half  inch  or  so, 
the  cutting  standing  erect  or  nearly  so.  Roots  form  at  the 
base  or  point,  and  a  young  plant  springs  from  the  same 
point  (Fig.  80). 

The  gloxinia  and  others  of  its  kin  propagate  by  leaves, 
but  instead  of  a  young\  plant  arising  directly  from  the  cut- 
ting, a  little  tuber  forms  upon  the  free  end  of  the  petiole 
(Fig.  81),  and  this  tuber  is  dried  off  and  finally  planted  the 
same  as  a  mature  tuber.  Most  gardeners  prefer  to  cut  the 
leaf-stalk  shorter  than  shown  in  the  cut. 

Leaf  cuttings  are  handled  in  the  same  manner  as  soft 
stem-cuttings,  so  far  as  temperature  and  moisture  are  con- 
cerned. There  are  comparatively  few  species  in  which  they 
form  the  most  available  means  of  multiplication.  In  some 
cases,  variegation  will  not  be  reproduced  by  the  rooted  leaf. 
This  is  true  in  the  ivy-leaved  geranium  L' Elegante  ;  a  good 
plant  can  be  obtained,  but  it  reverts  to  the  plain-leaved  type, 


Leaf  cutting  of  gloxinia 


CHAPTER   V. 


GRAFTAGE. 

I.    GENERAL   CONSIDERATIONS. 

GRAFTAGE  is  rarely  employed  for  the  propagation  of  the 
species  itself,  as  seedage  and  cuttage  are  more  expeditious 
and  cheaper.  Its  chief  use  is  to  perpetuate  a  variety  which 
does  not  reproduce  itself  from  seeds,  and  which  cannot  be 
economically  grown  from  cuttings.  Graftage  is  always  a 
secondary  operation.  That  is,  the  root  or  stock  must  first 
be  grown  from  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings,  and  this  stock  is 
then  grafted  or  budded  to  the  desired  variety.  Graftage  is 
employed  in  the  propagation  of  every  kind  of  tree  fruits  in 
America,  and  of  very  many  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs, 
and  it  is  indispensable  to  the  nursery  business.  It  therefore 
needs  to  be  discussed  in  considerable  detail. 

All  the  named  varieties  of  tree  fruits  and  many  of  those 
of  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  are  perpetuated  by  means  of 
graftage.  In  some  species,  which  present  no  marked  or 
named  varieties,  however,  propagation  by  seeds  or  cuttings 
is  for  various  reasons  so  difficult  or  uncertain  that  recourse 
must  be  had  to  graftage.  This  is  particularly  true  in  many 
of  the  firs  and  spruces,  which  do  not  produce  seeds  to  any 
extent  in  cultivation.  In  other  cases,  graftage  is  performed 
for  the  purpose  of  producing  some  radical  change  in  the 
character  or  habit  of  the  plant,  as  in  the  dwarfing  of  pears 
by  grafting  them  upon  the  quince,  and  of  apples  by  grafting 
on  the  Paradise  stock,  the  elevation  of  weeping  tops  by 
working  them  upon  upright  trunks,  and  the  acceleration  of 
fruit-bearing  by  setting  cions  in  old  plants.  It  is  sometimes 

(73) 


74  GRAFTAGE. 

employed  to  aid  the  healing  of  wounds  or  to  repair  and  fill 
out  broken  tops.  And  it  has  been  used  to  make  infertile 
plants  fertile,  by  grafting  in  the  missing  sex  in  dioecious 
trees,  or  a  variety  with  more  potent  pollen,  ^s  practiced  in 
some  of  the  native  plums.  All  these^fseS  of  graftage  fall 
under  three  heads:  i.  To  perpetuate  a  variety.  2.  To  in- 
crease the  ease  and  speed  of  multiplication.  3.  To  produce 
some  radical  change  in  nature  or  habit  of  cion  or  stock. 
Mutual  Influence  of  Stock  and  Cion. — The  first  two  divi- 
sions in  the  above  paragraph  need  no  elaboration  here,  but 
the  third  is  moot  ground,  and  demands  subdivision.  These 
secondary  results  of  grafting,  as  they  may  be  called,  or 
reciprocal  influences  of  stock  and  cion,  fall  readily  under 
the  following  heads  (which  were  outlined  by  the  writer  in 
Garden  and  Forest  for  February  26,  1890): 

1.  Graftage  may  modify  the  stature  of  the  plant.     It  is 
the  commonest  means  of  dwarfing  plants.     We  graft  the 
pear  upon  the  quince  and  the  apple  upon  the  Paradise 
apple.     This  dwarfing  usually  augments  proportionate  fruit- 
fulness.     (For  further  discussion  of  dwarfing,  see  page  147. ) 

2.  Graftage  may  be  made  the  means  of  adapting  plants 
to  adverse  soils.     Illustrations  are  numerous.     Many  varie- 
ties of  plums,  when  worked  on  the   peach,  thrive  in  light 
soils,  where  plums  on  their  own  roots  are  uncertain.    Con- 
versely, some  peaches  can  be  adapted  to  heavy  soils  by 
working  on  the  plum.     If  dwarf  pears  are  desired  on  light 
soils,  where  the  quince  does  not  thrive,  recourse  is  had  to 
grafting  on  the  mountain  ash,  or  some  of  its  allies.     In  some 
chalky  districts  of  England  the  peach  is  worked  on  the 
almond.     Some  plums  can  be  grown  on  uncongenial  loose 
soils  by  working  them  on  the  Beach  plum.     Professor  Budd 
states,  in  Garden  and  Forest  for  February  12,  1890,  that  the 
Gros  Pomier  apple  is  particularly  adapted  to  sandy  land 
and  the  Tetofsky  to  low  prairie  land,  and  that  these  stocks 
are  often  selected  to  overcome  adversities  of  soil.    Such 
instances  are  frequent,  and  should  demand  greater  attention 
from  cultivators. 


INFLUENCE  OF  CION  AND  STOCK.  75 

3.  Graftage  may  be  made  the  means  of  adapting  plants 
to  adverse  climate.     This  may  be  brought  about  by  either 
or  both  of  two  causes :    (a)  The  early  maturation  of  the 
stock,  causing  the  cion  to  ripen  better.     The  Oldenburgh 
apple  is  a  favorite  stock  in  severe  climates  for  this  reason. 
The  Siberian  crab  often  has  the  same  influence,  although 
its  use  may  be  open  to  objection,      (d)  The  mechanical 
effect    of  the  union,  impeding    the    passage   of  sap  and 
causing  the  cion  to  mature  or  ripen  early.      This  fact  has 
been  observed    in  many  cases,  notably  in  some  instances 
of  apples  upon  improved  crabs,  and  yet  the  union  is  perfect 
enough,  nevertheless,  to  maintain  the  plant  in  a  profitable 
condition  for  years.     There  are  some  apparent  adaptations 
to  climate,  however,  which  are  not  explained  by  either  of 
the  above  hypotheses. 

4.  Graftage  may  correct  a  poor  habit.      All  propaga- 
tors are  aware  of  this  fact.      The  Canada   Red  apple  is 
usually  top-worked  to  overcome  its  weak  and  straggling 
habit.     The  Winter  Nelis  pear  is  a  familiar  example. 

5.  Graftage  is  often  the  means  of  accelerating  fruitful- 
ness :    **.  e.,  plants  are  made  to  bear  at  an  earlier  age. 
Those  who  test  new  orchard  fruits  are  familiar  with  this 
fact.     Cions  from  young  trees  bear  sooner  if  set  in  old 
trees  than  when  set  in  young  ones.     This  result  may  some- 
times be  due  to  the  same  causes  which  abbreviate  the  vigor 
of  plants,  as  already  outlined  (see  \  3,  above).     Checking 
growth  induces  fruitfulness. 

6.  Graftage   often   modifies   the  season  of  ripening'  of 
fruit.     This  is  brought  about  by  different  habits  of  matur- 
ity of  growth  in  the  stock  and  cion.     An  experiment  with 
Winter  Nelis  pear  showed    that  fruit    kept    longer  when 
grown  upon    Bloodgood   stocks  than  when    grown  upon 
Flemish    Beauty  stocks.      The  latter  stocks  in    this  case 
evidently  completed  their  growth  sooner  than  the  others. 
Twenty  Ounce  apple  has  been  known  to  ripen  in  advance 
of  its  season  by  being  worked  upon  Early  Harvest.      Mr. 
Augur  cites  an   instance  in  which    the    Roxbury  Russet, 


76  GRAFTAGE. 

grafted  upon  the  Golden  Sweet,  which  is  early  in  ripen- 
ing, was  modified  both  in  flavor  and  keeping  qualities. 
"Keeping  qualities"  is  but  another  expression  for  "sea- 
son of  ripening."  These  influences  are  frequent;  in  fact, 
they  are  probably  much  commoner  than  we  are  aware. 

7.  Graftage  often  augments  fruitfulness,  largely  for  the 
same  reasons  as  discussed  in  \  3.     There  are  some  anom- 
alous instances  of  increase  of  fruitfulness  which  are  diffi- 
cult   of  explanation  :   e.  g.,  some  citrus  fruits    are    more 
productive  when  grafted  upon    Cilrus  (or  sEgle}  trifoliata 
than  upon  their  own  roots. 

8.  Graftage  often  delays  the  degeneration  of  varieties. 
In  various  ornamental  plants  this  influence  is  marked,  as 
compared  with  plants  from  cuttings.      It  is  recorded  par- 
ticularly in  certain  roses  and  camellias. 

9.  Graftage  sometimes  increases  the  size  of  fruit.     The 
best    illustrations  of   this  fact  are  found  in  certain  pears 
when   grown   upon   the  quince ;  the   fruit  is   often   larger 
than  from  standard  trees. 

10.  Graftage  may  result  in  a  modification  of  color  of 
foliage,  flowers  or  fruit.     Assumed  influences  of  this  char- 
acter are  frequently  recorded,  but  it  is  not  always  possible 
to  determine  how  much  of  the  modification  may  be  due  to 
soil,  climate  and   treatment.     Prunus   Pissardii  has  been 
seen    to    give    much   more    highly  colored  foliage    when 
grafted  upon  Prunus  Americana  than  upon  P.   domestic  a. 
The  cions  came  from  the  same  tree,  and  the  grafted  trees 
stood  in  the  same  row.      Any  acceleration  in  ripening  of 
fruit  (as  indicated  in  \  5)   is  apt  to  cause  high  color,  but 
the  intensification  of  color  in  Prunus  Pissardii  was  not 
due  to  such  cause,  as  the  grafts  were  more  vigorous  upon 
P.  Americana. 

IT.  Graftage  may  influence  the  flavor  of  fruit.  There 
can  be  no  question  but  that  apples  often  derive  acridity 
from  the  stock  when  worked  upon  the  wild  crab  or  upon 
the  Siberian  crab.  It  is  said  that  the  Angouleme  and 
some  other  pears  are  improved  in  flavor  when  grown  upon 


INFLUENCE  OF  CION  AND  STOCK.  77 

the  quince.  Downing  asserts  that  some  varieties  "are 
considerably  improved  in  flavor"  by  working  upon  quince. 
Similar  results  may  occur  in  the  dwarfing  of  apples. 

A  favorite  illustration  in  support  of  the  reciprocal  influ- 
ences of  stock  and  cion  is  the  fact  of  transfer  of  color  or 
variegation  by  grafting.  Darwin  called  attention  to  this 
phenomenon,  and  used  the  term  "graft-hybrid"  to  desig- 
nate similar  mongrel  offspring  of.  certain  unions.  But  this 
class  of  phenomena  seems  to  follow  inoculation  rather 
than  grafting  per  se.  The  transferable  nature  of  variega- 
tion is  well  known  in  certain  species,  but  it  is  entirely 
inexplicable  in  the  present  state  of  our  knowledge ;  it 
seems  certain,  however,  that  it  does  not  merit  attention 
under  a  discussion  of  grafting.  So  long  ago  as  1727  vari- 
egation was  designated  by  Bradley  a  "distemper,"  which 
"may  be  communicated  to  every  plant  of  the  same  tribe 
by  inoculating  only  a  single  bud."  In  our  own  day,  Morren 
has  called  it  the  "contagion  of  variegation." 

The  above  outline  illustrates  the  fact  that  the  results 
of  graftage  are  profoundly  modified  by  conditions.  Ad- 
verse conditions  must  give  unsatisfactory  results,  and  may 
lead  to  a  premature  denunciation  of  the  whole  system  of 
propagation  upon  the  roots  of  other  plants.  But,  on  the 
other  hand,  proper  conditions  and  good  execution  afford 
abundant  and  positive  proof  that  graftage  is  essential  to 
best  success  in  many  departments  of  horticulture. 

Limits  of  Graftage.— Probably  all  exogenous  plants — 
those  which  possess  a  distinct  bark  and  pith — can  be 
grafted.  Plants  must  be  more  or  less  closely  related  to  each 
other  to  allow  of  successful  graftage  of  the  one  upon  the 
other.  What  the  affinities  are  in  any  case  can  be  known 
only  by  experiment.  As  a  rule,  plants  of  close  botanical 
relationship,  especially  those  of  the  same  genus,  graft  upon 
each  other  with  more  or  less  ease ;  yet  this  relationship  is 
by  no  means  a  safe  guide.  A  plant  will  often  thrive  better 
upon  a  species  of  another  genus  than  upon  a  congener. 
The  pear,  for  instance,  does  better  .upon  many  thorns  than 


78  GRAFTAGE. 

upon  the  apple.  Sometimes  plants  of  very  distinct  genera 
unite  readily.  Thus  among  cacti,  the  leafless  epiphyllum 
grows  remarkably  well  upon  the  leaf-bearing  pereskia.  It 
should  be  borne  in  mind  that  union  of  tissues  is  not  a  proof 
of  affinity.  Affinity  can  be  measured  only  by  the  thrift, 
healthfulness  and  longevity  of  the  cion.  The  bean  has  been 
known  to  make  a  union  with  the  chrysanthemum,  but  it 
almost  immediately  died.  Soft  tissues,  in  particular,  often 
combine  in  plants  which  possess  no  affinity  whatever,  as  we 
commonly  understand  the  term.  Neither  does  affinity  refer 
to  relative  sizes  or  rates  of  growth  of  stock  and  cion, 
although  the  term  is  sometimes  used  in  this  sense.  It  can- 
not be  said  that  some  varieties  of  pear  lack  affinity  for  the 
quince,  and  yet  the  pear  cion  grows  much  larger  than  the 
stock.  In  fact,  it  is  just  this  difference  in  size  and  rate  of 
growth  which  constitutes  the  value  of  the  quince  root  for 
dwarfing  the  pear.  When  there  is  a  marked  difference  in 
rate  of  growth  between  the  stock  and  cion,  an  enlargement 
will  occur  in  the  course  of  time,  either  above  or  below  the 
union.  If  this  occurs  upon  the  stem,  it  makes  an  unsightly 
tree.  If  the  cion  greatly  outgrows  the  stock  a  weak  tree 
is  the  result. 

General  Methods.— Graftage  can  be  performed  at  almost 
any  time  of  the  year,  but  the  practice  must  be  greatly  varied 
to  suit  the  season  and  other  conditions.  The  one  essential 
point  is  to  make  sure  that  the  cambium  layers,  lying 
between  the  bark  and  wood,  meet  as  nearly  as  possible 
in  the  cion  and  stock.  This  cambium  is  always  present  in 
live  parts,  forming  woody  substance  from  its  inner  surface 
and  bark  from  its  outer  surface.  During  the  season  of 
greatest  growth  it  usually  occurs  as  a  soft,  mucilaginous 
and  more  or  less  unorganized  substance,  and  in  this  stage  it 
most  readily  repairs  and  unites  wounded  surfaces.  And  for 
this  reason  the  grafting  and  budding  of  old  trees  are  usually 
performed  in  the  spring.  Later  in  the  season,  the  cambium 
becomes  firmer  and  more  differentiated,  and  union  of  woody 
parts  is  more  uncertain.  It  is  also  necessary  to  cover  the 


KINDS     OF     GRAFTS.  79 

wounds  in  order  to  check  evaporation  from  the  tissues.  In 
outdoor  work  wax  is  commonly  used  for  all  species  of 
graftage  which  wound  the  wood  itself,  but  in  budding,  the 
loosened  bark,  bound  down  securely  by  a  bandage,  affords 
sufficient  protection.  It  is  commonly  supposed  that  an 
ordinary  cleft-graft  cannot  live  if  the  bark  of  the  stock 
immediately  adjoining  it  is  seriously  wounded,  but  the 
bark  really  serves  little  purpose  beyond  protection  of  the 
tissues  beneath.  A  cion  will  grow  when  the  bark  is  almost 
entirely  removed  from  the  stub,  if  some  adequate  protec- 
tion can  be  given  which  will  not  interfere  with  the  forma- 
tion of  new  bark.  The  cion  must  always  possess  at  least 
one  good  bud.  In  most  cases,  only  buds  which  are  mature 
or  nearly  so  are  used,  but  in  the  grafting  of  herbs  very 
young  buds  may  be  employed.  These  simple  requirements 
can  be  satisfied  in  an  almost  innumerable  variety  of  ways. 
The  cion  or  bud  may  be  inserted  in  the  root,  crown,  trunk, 
or  any  of  the  branches ;  it  may  be  simply  set  under  the 
bark,  or  inserted  into  the  wood  itself  in  almost  any  fash- 
ion ;  and  the  operation  may  be  performed  either  upon 
growing  or  dormant  plants  at  any  season.  But  in  prac- 
tice there  are  comparatively  few  methods  which  are  suffi- 
ciently simple  and  expeditious  to  admit  of  indiscriminate 
use ;  the  operator  must  be  able  to  choose  the  particular 
method  which  is  best  adapted  to  the  case  in  hand. 

Classification  of  Graftage.  —  There  are  three  general 
divisions  or  kinds  of  graftage,  between  which,  however, 
there  are  no  decisive  lines  of  separation  :  i.  Bud-grafting, 
or  budding,  in  which  a  single  bud  is  inserted  upon  the 
surface  of  the  wood  of  the  stock.  2.  Cion-grafting,  or 
grafting  proper,  in  which  a  detached  twig,  bearing  one  or 
more  buds,  is  inserted  into  or  upon  the  stock.  3.  Inarch- 
ing, or  grafting  by  approach,  in  which  the  cion  remains 
attached  to  the  parent  plant  until  union  takes  place.  This 
last  is  so  much  like  grafting  proper,  and  is  so  little  used, 
that  it  is  discussed  under  the  head  of  grafting  in  the  suc- 
ceeding parts  ol  this  chapter.  Each  of  these  divisions 


80  GRAFTAGE. 

can  .be  almost  endlessly  varied  and  sub-divided,  but  in 
this  discussion  only  the  leading  practices  can  be  detailed. 
The  following  enumeration,  after  Baltet,  will  give  a  fair 
idea  of  the  kinds  of  grafting  which  have  been  employed 
under  distinct  names  : 


/.  Bud- Graf  ting,  or  Budding. 

i. — Grafting  with  shield-buds. 
,<•>  Bud-grafting  under  the  bark,  or  by  inoculation. 
"         ordinary  method. 
"         with  across-shaped  incision. 

"    the  incision  reversed, 
by  veneering. 

Bud-grafting,  the  combined  or  double  method. 
2. — Flute-grafting. 

"        common  method. 
"          "        with  strips  of  bark. 


2.    Cion-  Grafting,  or   Grafting  proper. 

i. TT-Si de-grafting  under  the  bark. 

twith  a  simple  branch, 
with  a  heeled  branch, 
i •  "          "         in  the  alburnum. 
&  "          "         with  a  straight  cleft, 
with  an  oblique  cleft. 
2. — Crown-grafting. 
f  Ordinary  method. 
'.>  Improved  method. 
3. — Grafting  de  precision. 

Veneering,  common  method, 
in  crown-grafting, 
with  strips  of  bark. 
Crown-grafting  by  inlaying. 
Side-grafting  by  inlaying. 


KINDS    OF    GRAFTS.  8l 

4.-r-Cleft-grafting,  common  single. 
f •   "          "          common  double. 
"  oblique. 

"  terminal. 

£'    "          "  "         woody. 

jfr    "          "  "          herbaceous. 

5. —Whip  grafting,  simple. 

"          "         complex. 
.  .  Saddle-grafting. 
6.— Mixed  grafting. 

Grafting  with  cuttings. 
Jtft  When  the  cion  is  a  cutting. 

When  the  stock  is  a  cutting. 
"    When  both  are  cuttings. 

Root-grafting  of  a  plant  on  its  own  root. 

"  "  "  "        the  roots  of  another  plant. 

Grafting  with  fruit  buds. 

j.   Inarching,  or  Grafting  by  Approach. 

i.— Method  by  veneering. 

".     •  "   inlaying. 
.    English  method. 
2.  —Inarching  with  an  eye. 

"     a  branch. 

Is  Graftage  a  Devitalizing  Process  ? — The  opinion  is 
commonly  expressed  by  horticultural  writers  that  graftage 
is  somehow  vitally  pernicious,  and  that  its  effects  upon  the 
plant  must  be  injurious.  Graftage  is  often  cited  as  the  cause 
of  the  running  out  of  varieties.  The  process  has  also  been 
strongly  indicted  during  the  past  few  years  by  writers  in 
England  Inasmuch  as  the  question  is  vital  to  the  practice 
of  fruit-growing  in  America,  it  will  be  worth  while  to  make 
a  somewhat  careful  study  of  the  questions  respecting  the 
relationship  between  graftage  and  the  vitality  of  the  grafted 
plant.  For  this  purpose,  a  paper  read  by  the  author  before 


82 


GRAFTAGE. 


the  Peninsula  Horticultural  Society  at  Dover,  Delaware,  in 
1892,  and  printed  in  the  transactions  of  the  society,  is  here 
reproduced  : 

To  the  popular  mind  there  seems  to  be  something  mys- 
terious in  the  process  of  graftage.  People  look  upon  it  as 
something  akin  to  magic,  and  entirely  opposed  to  the  laws 
of  nature.  It  is  popularly  thought  to  represent  the  extreme 
power  which  man  exercises  over  natural  forces.  It  is 

strange  that  this  opinion  should 
prevail  in  these  times,-  for  the 
operation  itself  is  very  simple, 
and  the  process  of  union  is 
nothing  more  than  the  healing 
of  a  wound.  It  is  in  no  way 
more  mysterious  than  the  root- 
ing of  cuttings,  and  it  is  not  so 
unnatural,  if  by  this  expression 
we  refer  to  the  relative  fre- 
quency of  the  occurrences  of 
the  phenomena  in  nature.  Nat- 
ural grafts  are  by  no  means  rare 
among  forest  trees,  and  occa- 
sionally the  union  is  so  com- 
plete that  the  foster  stock  en- 
tirely supports  and  nourishes 
the  other.  A  perfect  inarch - 
graft,  by  means  of  which  two 
oalc  trees  have  united  into  one, 
is  shown  in  Fig.  82.  Cuttings  of 
stems,  however,  are  very  rare 
among  wild  plants ;  in  fact,  there  is  but  one  common 
instance,  in  the  north,  in  which  stem  cuttings  are  made 
entirely  without  the  aid  of  man,  and  that  is  the  case  of  cer- 
tain brittle  willows  whose  branchlets  are  easily  cast  by  wind 
and  snow  into  streams  and  moist  places,  where  they  some- 
times take  root.  But  mere  unnaturalness  of  any  operation 
has  no  importance  in  discussions  of  phenomena  attaching 


82.  A  natural  graft  of  forest  trees. 


IS    GRAFTAGE    PERNICIOUS  ?  83 

to  cultivated  plants,  for  all  cultivation  is  itself  unnatural 
in  this  ordinary  sense. 

But  it  is  difficult  to  see  why  the  union  of  cion  and  stock 
is  any  more  mysterious  or  unusual  than  the  rooting  of  cut- 
tings ;  in  fact,  it  has  always  seemed  to  me  to  be  the  simpler 
and  more  normal  process  of  the  two.  A  wounded  surface 
heals  over  as  a  matter  of  protection  to  the  plant,  and  when 
two  wounded  surfaces  of  consanguineous  plants  are  closely 
applied,  nothing  is  more  natural  than  that  the  nascent  cells 
should  interlock  and  unite.  In  other  words,  there  is  no 
apparent  reason  why  two  cells  from  different  allied  stems 
should  refuse  to  unite  any  more  than  two  cells  from  the 
same  stem.  But  why  bits  of  stem  should  throw  out  roots 
from  their  lower  portion  and  leaves  from  their  upper  por- 
tion, when  both  ends  may  be  to  every  human  sense  exactly 
alike,  is  indeed  a  mystery.  Healing  is  regarded  as  one  of 
the  necessary  functions  of  stems,  but  rooting  cannot  be  so 
considered. 

This  much  is  said  by  way  of  preface  in  order  to  eliminate 
any  preconception  that  graftage  is  in  principle  and  essence 
opposed  to  nature,  and  is  therefore  fundamentally  wrong. 
A  large  part  of  the  discussion  of  the  philosophy  of  grafting 
appears  to  have  been  random,  because  of  a  conviction  or 
assumption  that  it  is  necessarily  opposed  to  natural 
processes. 

It  does  not  follow  from  these  propositions,  however, 
that  graftage  is  a  desirable  method  of  multiplying  plants, 
but  simply  that  the  subject  must  be  approached  by  means 
of  direct  and  positive  evidence.  Much  has  been  said  during 
the  last  few  years  concerning  the  merits  of  graftage,  and 
the  opponents  of  the  system  have  made  the  most  sweeping 
statements  of  its  perniciousness.  This  recent  discussion 
started  from  an  editorial  which  appeared  in  The  Field,  an 
English  journal,  and  which  was  copied  in  The  Garden  of 
January  26,  1889,  with  an  invitation  for  discussion  of  the 
subject.  The  article  opens  as  follows:  "We  doubt  if 
there  is  a  greater  nuisance  in  the  whole  practice  of  gar- 


84  GRAFTAGE. 

dening  than  the  art  of  grafting.  It  is  very  clever,  it  is 
very  interesting,  but  it  will  be  no  great  loss  if  it  is  abol- 
ished altogether.  It  is  for  the  convenience  of  the  nursery- 
man that  it  is  done  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  and  in  nearly 
all  instances  it  is  not  only  needless,  but  harmful.  *  *  * 
If  we  made  the  nurserymen  give  us  things  on  their  own 
roots,  they  would  find  some  quick  means  of  doing  so." 
A  most  profuse  discussion  followed  for  a  period  of  two 
years,  in  which  many  excellent  observers  took  part. 
Some  of  the  denunciations  of  graftage  are  as  follows  : 
"Grafting  is  always  a  makeshift,  and  very  often  a  fraud." 
"Grafting  is  in  effect  a  kind  of  adulteration.  *  *  *  * 
It  is  an  analogue  of  the  coffee  and  chicory  business. 
Grafted  plants  of  all  kinds  are  open  to  ail  sorts  of  acci- 
dents and  disaster,  and  very  often  the  soil,  or  the  climate, 
or  the  cultivator,  is  blamed  by  employers  for  evils  which 
thus  originated  in  the  nursery.  *  *  *  *  If,  in  certain 
cases,  grafting  as  a  convenience  has  to  be  resorted  to, 
then  let  it  be  root-grafting,  a  system  that  eventually  af- 
fords the  cion  a  chance  of  rooting  on  its  own  account  in  a 
natural  way."  "Toy  games,  such  as  grafting  and  bud- 
ding, will  have  to  be  abandoned,  and  real  work  must  be 
begun  on  some  sound  and  sensible  plan."  "Any  fruit- 
bearing  or  ornamental  tree  that  will  not  succeed  on  its 
own  roots  had  better  go  to  the  rubbish  fire  at  once.  We 
want,  no  coddled  or  grafted  stuff,  when  own-rooted  things 
are  in  all  ways  infinitely  better,  healthier,  and  longer- 
lived."  These  sweeping  statements  are  made  by  F.  W. 
Burbidge,  of  Dublin,  a  well-known  author,  whose  opinions 
command  attention.  The  editor  of  The  Garden  writes  : 
"We  should  not  plant  any  grafted  tree  or  shrub,  so  far 
as  what  are  called  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  are  con- 
cerned. There  may  be  reason  for  the  universal  grafting  of 
fruit  trees,  though  we  doubt  it."  These  quotations  are 
not  cited  in  any  controversial  spirit,  but  simply  to  show 
the  positiveness  with  which  the  practice  of  graftage  is 
assailed.  As  the  presumption  is  in  favor  of  any  practice 


IS    GRAFTAGE    PERNICIOUS   ?  85 

which  has  become  universal,  these  statements  possess 
extraordinary  interest. 

The  assumptions  underlying  these  denunciations  of 
graftage  are  three,  and  as  these  are  essentially  the  rea- 
sons which  are  usually  cited  by  the  opponents  of  the 
system,  they  may  be  considered  here.  These  are  :  i.  The 
citation  of  numerous  instances  in  which  graftage  (by 
which  is  meant  both  grafting  and  budding)  has  given  per- 
nicious results.  2.  The  affirmation  that  the  process  is 
unnatural.  3.  The  statement  that  own-rooted  plants  are 
better  —  that  is,  longer  lived,  hardier,  more  virile  —  than 
graft-rooted  plants. 

i.  The  citations  of  the  injurious  effects  of  graftage  are 
usually  confined  to  ornamental  plants,  and  the  commonly 
cited  fault  of  the  operation  is  the  tendency  of  the  stocks  to 
sucker  and  choke  the  graft.  This  fault  is  certainly  very 
common,  but  on  the  other  hand  there  are  numerous 
instances  in  which  it  does  not  occur,  as,  for  instance,  in 
peach,  apple,  pear  and  many  other  fruit-trees,  and  in  very 
many  ornamentals.  In  fact,  it  is  probably  of  no  more  com- 
mon occurrence  than  is  the  pernicious  suckering  of  plants 
grown  from  cuttings,  as  in  the  lilacs,  cutting-grown  or 
sucker-grown  plums,  and  many  other  plants,  in  which  suck- 
ers must  be  assiduously  kept  down  or  they  will  choke  the 
main  stem  which  we  are  endeavoring  to  rear.  And  these 
remarks  will  apply  with  equal  force  to  all  the  citations 
of  the  ill-effects  of  graftage  ;  the  cases  simply  show  that 
the  operation  has  been  a  failure  or  is  open  to  objections 
in  the  particular  instances  cited,  and  they  afford  no  proof 
that  there  may  not  be  other  plants  upon  which  graftage 
is  an  entire  success.  Graftage  has  been  indiscriminately 
employed,  and  it  is  apparent  to  everyone  that  there  have 
been  many  failures.  But  this  does  not  prove  graftage 
wrong,  any  more  than  the  wrong  practice  of  physicians 
proves  that  the  science  of  medicine  is  pernicious.  If 
there  are  plants  upon  which  graftage  is  entirely  suc- 
cessful, then  all  must  agree  that  the  operation  itself, 
G 


86  GRAFTAGE. 

per  se,  is  not  wrong,  however  many  cases  there  may  be 
to  which  it  is  not  adapted. 

2.  The  proposition  that  graftage  is  unnatural,  and  there- 
fore pernicious,  is  no  more  nor  less  than  a  fallacy.  In  the 
first  place,  there  is  nothing  to  show  that  it  is  any  more 
unnatural  than  the  making  of  cuttings,  and  if  naturalness  is 
proved  by  frequency  of  occurrence  in  nature,  then  graftage 
must  be  considered  the  more  natural  process  of  the  two,  as 
already  shown.  One  of  the  most  determined  writers  upon 
this  subject  has  said  that  "  it  is  quite  fair  to  say  that  raising 
a  tree  from  seed,  or  a  shrub  by  pulling  it  in  pieces  [cut- 
tings] is  a  more  natural  mode  of  increase  than  by  grafting. ' ' 
It  is  difficult  to  understand  by  what  token  the  author  is  to 
prove  that  pulling  a  plant  in  pieces  is  more  natural  than 
graftage;  and  there  appears  to  have  been  no  attempt  to 
show  that  it  is  so. 

But  the  whole  discussion  of  the  mere  naturalness  of  any 
operation  is  really  aside  from  the  question,  for  every  opera- 
tion in  the  garden  is  in  some  sense  unnatural,  whether  it  be 
transplantation,  pruning,  or  tillage ;  and  it  is  well  known 
that  these  unnatural  processes  may  sometimes  increase 
the  longevity  and  virility  of  the  plant.  Plants  which  are 
given  an  abundance  of  food  and  are  protected  from  insects 
and  fungi  and  the  struggle  with  other  plants,  are  better 
equipped  than  those  left  entirely  to  nature.  It  is  the  com- 
monest notion  that  cultivation  is  essentially  an  artificial 
stimulus,  that  it  excites  the  plant  to  performances  really 
beyond  its  own  power,  and  therefore  devitalizes  it.  But  this 
is  a  fallacy.  All  plants  and  animals  in  a  state  of  nature 
possess  more  power  than  they  are  able  to  express,  and  they 
are  held  in  a  state  of  equilibrium,  as  Herbert  Spencer  puts 
it,  by  the  adaptation  to  environment.  Once  the  pressure  of 
existing  environments  is  removed,  the  plant  springs  into  the 
breach  and  takes  on  some  new  features  of  size,  robustness, 
or  prolificacy,  or  distributes  itself  in  new  directions.  The 
whole  series  of  benefits  which  arise  from  a  change  of  seed 
is  a  familiar  proof  of  this  fact.  So  that,  if  cultivation, 


ARE    OWN-ROOTED    PLANTS    BETTER  ?  87 

domestication,  or,  in  other  words,  unnaturalness,  may  be 
sometimes  a  stimulus,  it  is  not  necessarily  so.  Cultivation 
differs  from  natural  conditions  more  in  degree  than  in  kind. 
Or,  as  Darwin  writes,  "  Man  may  be  said  to  have  been 
trying  an  experiment  on  a  gigantic  scale,"  and  "it  is  an 
experiment  which  nature  during  the  long  lapse  of  time 
has  incessantly  tried. " 

3.  It  is  said  that  own-rooted  plants  are  better  than  fos- 
ter-rooted ones.  This  is  merely  an  assumption,  and  yet  it 
has  been  held  with  dogmatic  positiveness  by  many  writers. 
If  mere  unnaturalness,  that  is,  rarity  or  lack  of  occurrence 
in  nature,  is  no  proof  of  perniciousness,  as  has  been 
shown,  then  this  statement  admits  of  argument  just  as 
much  as  any  other  proposition.  And  surely  at  this  day 
we  should  test  such  statements  by  direct  evidence  rather 
than  by  a  priori  convictions.  The  citation  of  any  number 
of  instances  of  the  ill-effects  of  graftage  is  no  proof  that 
own-rooted  plants  are  necessarily  better,  if  there  should 
still  remain  cases  in  which  no  injurious  effects  follow. 
Now,  if  it  is  true  that  "own-rooted  things  are  in  all  ways 
infinitely  better,  healthier  and  longer-lived"  than  foster- 
rooted  plants,  and  if  "grafted  plants  of  all  kinds  are 
open  to  all  sorts  of  accidents  and  disaster,"  then  the 
proposition  should  admit  of  most  abundant  proof.  The 
subject  may  be  analyzed  by  discussing  the  following 
questions:  a.  Is  the  union  always  imperfect?  b.  Are 
grafted  plants  less  virile  than  own-rooted  ones  ?  Are  they 
shorter  lived? 

a.  It  is  well  known  that  the  physical  union  between 
cion  and  stock  is  often  imperfect,  and  remains  a  point  of 
weakness  throughout  the  life  of  a  plant.  But  this  is  not 
always  true.  There  are  scores  of  plants  which  make  per- 
fect physical  unions  with  other  plants  of  their  own  species, 
or  even  with  other  species,  and  it  follows  that  these, 
alone,  are  the  plants  that  should  be  grafted.  The  very- 
best  proof  which  can  be  adduced  that  the  union  may  be 
physically  perfect,  is  to  be  found  in  the  micro-photograph 


88 


GRAFTAGE. 


of  an  apple  graft  published  six  years  ago  in  The  American 
Garden  by  Professor  C.  S.  Crandall.  The  cells  are  knit 
together  so  completely  that  it  is  impossible  to  determine 
the  exact  line  of  union  (Fig.  83).  Mr.  Crandall  also  fig- 


83.  A  perfect  union  of  stock  and  don,  following  veneer-grafting. 
The  stock  is  upon  the  left,  and  the  don  upon  the  right.  The 
united  tissue  is  seen  running  through  the  center.  (X25.) 

ures  a  microscopic  section  of  an  apple  graft  in  which  the 
union  is  very  poor,  but  this  graft  was  made  in  a  different 
manner  from  the  other  (Fig.  84)  ;  and  that  is  another  proof 
that  the  operation  should  be  suited  to  the  subject. 

These   were    grafts   made   upon    nursery   stock,  and    it 


PERFECT  AND  IMPERFECT  UNIONS. 


89 


would  appear  that  if  the  union  were  good  at  the  expira- 
tion of  the  first  year,  it  would  remain  good  throughout 
the  life  of  the  plant.  In  order  to  test  this  point,  two  apple 
trees  were  procured,  which  were  fifteen  years  old  and  over 


84.  Imperfect  union  of  a  whip-Kraft.  The  body  of  the  stock  is  on  the 
left ;  then  follows  the  tongue  of  the  cion  ;  then  the  tongue  of  the  stock  ; 
and  finally,  on  the  right,  the  body  of  the  cion.  The  spaces  show  the 
lack  of  union  which  sometimes  occurs,  (x  25.) 

six  inches  in  diameter,  which  had  been  grafted  at  the 
surface  of  the  ground  in  the  nursery.  In  the  presence  of 
two  critical  observers,  the  trunks  were  split  into  many 
pieces,  but  no  mark  whatever  could  be  found  of  the  old 


9O  GRAFTAGE. 

union.  The  grain  was  perfectly  straight  and  bright 
through  the  crown.  Every  internal  evidence  of  a  graft 
had  disappeared. 

So  far  as  the  strength  of  a  good  union  is  concerned,  all 
fruit  growers  know  that  trees  rarely  break  where  they  are 
grafted.  In  a  certain  seedling  orchard,  many  hundreds  of 
grafts  were  set  in  the  tops  of  the  trees,  often  far  out  on 
large  limbs  ;  and  yet,  with  all  the  breaking  of  the  trees  by 
ice,  storms  and  loads  of  fruit,  a  well-established  union  has 
not  been  known  to  break  away.  The  strength  of  the 
union  was  tested  in  a  different  way.  Two  "stubs"  were 
cut  from  an  old  and  rather  weak  apple  tree  which  had  been 
cleft-grafted  in  the  spring  of  1889.  These  stubs  were 
sawed  up  into  cross-sections  less  than  an,  inch  thick,  and 
each  section,  therefore,  had  a  portion  of  foreign  wood 
grown  into  either  side  of  it.  These  sections  were  now 
placed  on  a  furnace  and  kept  very  hot  for  two  days,  in 
order  to  determine  how  they  would  check  in  seasoning, 
for  it  is  evident  that  the  checks  occur  in  the  weakest 
points.  But  in  no  case  was  there  a  check  in  the  amalga- 
mated tissue,  showing  that  it  was  really  an  element  of 
physical  strength  to  the  plant.  A  similar  test  was  made 
with  yearling  mulberry  grafts,  and  with  similar  results; 
and  this  case  is  particularly  interesting  because  there 
were  three  species  engrafted— the  common  Russian  mul- 
berry, Morus  rubra,  and  M.  Japonica. 

From  all  these  considerations,  it  is  evident  that,  ad- 
mitting that  hundreds  of  poor  unions  occur,  there  is  no 
necessary  reason  why  a  graft  should  be  a  point  of  physical 
weakness,  and  that  the  statement  that  "grafted  plants  of 
all  kinds  are  open  to  all  sorts  of  accidents  and  disaster," 
is  not  true. 

b.  Are  grafted  plants  less  virile — that  is,  less  strong, 
vigorous,  hardy,  shorter-lived — than  others?  It  is  evident 
that  a  poor  union  or  an  uncongenial  stock  will  make  the 
resulting  plant  weak,  and  this  is  a  further  proof  that  in- 
discriminate graftage  is  to  be  discouraged.  But  these 


DOES    GRAFTAGE    DEVITALIZE?  QI 

facts  do  not  affirm  the  question.  There  are  two  ways  of 
approaching  the  general  question,  by  philosophical  con- 
siderations and  by  direct  evidence. 

It  is  held  by  many  persons  that  any  asexual  propaga- 
tion is  in  the  end  devitalizing,  since  the  legitimate  method 
of  propagation  is  by  means  of  seeds.  This  notion  appears 
to  have  found  confirmation  in  the  conclusions  of  Darwin 
and  his  followers,  that  the  ultimate  function  of  sex  is 
to  revitalize  and  strengthen  the  offspring  following  the 
union  of  the  characters  or  powers  of  two  parents  ;  for  if 
the  expensive  sexual  propagation  invigorates  the  type, 
asexual  propagation  would  seem  to  weaken  it.  It  does 
not  follow,  however,  that  because  sexual  reproduction  is 
good,  asexual  increase  is  bad,  but  rather  that  the  one  is, 
as  a  rule,  better  than  the  other,  without  saying  that  the 
other  is  injurious.  We  are  not  surprised  to  find,  there- 
fore, that  some  plants  have  been  asexually  propagated 
for  centuries  with  apparently  no  decrease  of  vitality,  al- 
though this  fact  does  not  prove  that  the  plant  may  not 
have  positively  increased  in  virility  if  sexual  propagation 
had  been  employed.  The  presumption  is  always  in  favor 
of  sexual  reproduction,  a  point  which  will  be  admitted  by 
every  one.  And  right  here  is  where  graftage  has  an 
enormous  theoretical  advantage  over  cuttage  or  any  other 
asexual  multiplication  :  the  root  of  the  grafted  plant  springs 
from  sexual  reproduction,  for  it  is  a  seedling,  and  if  the 
union  is  physically  perfect,  as  is  frequently  the  case,  there 
is  reason  to  suppose  that  grafting  between  consanguineous 
plants  is  better  than  propagating  by  cuttings  or  layers. 
In  other  words,  graftage  is  really  sexual  multiplication, 
and  if  seeds  have  any  advantage  over  buds  in  forming 
the  foundation  of  a  plant,  graftage  is  a  more  perfect 
method  than  any  other  artificial  practice.  It  is,  in  fact, 
the  nearest  approach  to  direct  sexual  reproduction,  and 
when  seeds  cannot  be  relied  upon  wholly,  as  they  cannot, 
for  the  reproduction  of  many  garden  varieties,  it  is  the 
ideal  practice,  always  provided,  of  course,  that  it  is  prop- 


92  GRAFTAGE. 

erly  done  between  congenial  subjects.  It  is  not  to  be  ex- 
pected that  the  practice  is  adapted  to  all  plants,  any  more 
than  is  the  making  of  cuttings  of  leaves  or  of  stems, 
but  this  fact  cannot  be  held  to  invalidate  the  system. 

It  has  been  said,  in  evidence  that  graftage  is  a  devital- 
izing or  at  least  disturbing  process,  that  grafted  plants 
lose  the  power  of  independent  propagation.  Mr.  Bur- 
bidge  writes  that  "any  plant  once  grafted  becomes  ex- 
ceedingly difficult  of  increase,  except  by  grafting."  Evi- 
dence should  be  collected  to  show  if  this  is  true.  All  our 
fruits  grow  just  as  readily  from  seeds  from  grafted  as  from 
seedling  trees,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  there  is  a  well  authen- 
ticated case  of  a  plant  which  grows  readily  from  cuttings 
becoming  any  more  difficult  to  root  from,  cuttings  after 
having  been  grafted. 

But  is  there  direct  evidence  to  show  that  "grafting  is 
always  a  make-shift,"  that  it  is  a  "  toy  game,"  that  "grafted 
plants  of  all  kinds  are  open  to  all  sorts  of  accidents  and 
disaster,"  that  "own-rooted  things  are  in  all  ways  infinitely 
better,  healthier,  and  longer-lived?"  These  statements 
allow  of  no  exceptions  ;  they  are  universal  and  iron-bound. 
If  the  questions  were  to  be  fully  met,  we  should  need  to 
discuss  the  whole  art  of  graftage  in  all  its  detail,  but  if  there 
is  one  well  authenticated  case  in  which  a  grafted  plant  is 
as  strong,  as  hardy,  as  vigorous,  as  productive  and  as  long- 
lived  as  seedlings  or  as  cutting-plants,  we  shall  have  estab- 
lished the  fact  that  the  operation  is  not  necessarily  perni- 
cious, and  shall  have  created  the  presumption  that  other 
cases  must  exist. 

Some  forty  years  ago,  a  traveller  took  apple  seeds  from 
his  old  home  in  Vermont  and  planted  them  in  Michigan. 
The  seeds  produced  some  hundred  or  more  lusty  trees,  but 
as  most  of  the  fruit  was  poor  or  indifferent,  it  was  decided  to 
top-graft  the  trees.  This  grafting  was  done  in  the  most 
desultory  manner,  some  trees  being  grafted  piece-meal,  with 
some  of  the  original  branches  allowed  to  remain  perma- 
nently, while  others  were  entirely  changed  over  at  once; 


IS    GRAFTAGE    DEVITALIZING  ?  93 

and  a  few  of  them  had  been  grafted  on  the  trunk  about 
three  or  four  feet  high,  when  they  were  as  large  as  broom- 
sticks, the  whole  top  having  been  cut  off  when  the  opera- 
tion was  performed.  A  few  trees  which  chanced  to  bear 
tolerable  fruit,  scattered  here  and  there  through  the  orchard, 
were  not  grafted.  The  orchard  has  been,  therefore,  an 
excellent  experiment  in  grafting.  Many  of  the  trees  in 
this  old  orchard  have  died  from  undeterminable  causes,  and 
it  is  an  interesting  fact  that  fully  half,  and  probably  even 
more,  of  the  deaths  have  been  seedling  trees  which  were 
for  many  years  just  as  vigorous  in  every  way  as  the  grafted 
trees ;  and  of  the  trees  that  remain,  the  grafted  specimens 
are  in  every  way  as  vigorous,  hardy  and  productive  as  the 
others.  Some  of  these  trees  have  two  tops,  one  of  which 
was  grafted  shoulder  high  in  the  early  days,  and  the  other 
grafted  into  the  resulting  top  many  years  later.  And  those 
trees  which  contain  both  original  branches  and  grafted  ones 
in  the  same  top  show  similar  results— the  foreign  branches 
are  in  every  way  as  vigorous,  virile  and  productive  as  the 
others,  and  they  are  proving  to  be  just  as  long-lived.  Here, 
then,  is  a  positive  experiment  compassed  by  the  lifetime  of 
one  man,  which  shows  that  own-rooted  trees  are  not  al- 
ways "infinitely  better,  healthier,  and  longer-lived"  than 
grafted  plants.  This  illustration  may  be  considered  as  a 
type  of  thousands  of  orchards,  containing  various  fruits, 
in  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  fact  may  be  cited  that 
the  old  seedling  orchards  which  still  remain  to  us  about 
the  country  are  much  more  uneven  and  contain  more 
dead  trees  or  vacant  places  than  the  commercial  grafted 
orchards  of  even  the  same  age.  This  is  due  to  the  strug- 
gle for  existence  in  the  old  orchards,  by  which  the  weak 
trees  have  disappeared,  while  the  grafted  orchards,  being 
made  up  of  selected  varieties  of  known  virility  and  hardi- 
ness, have  remained  more  nearly  intact,  and  if  the  seed- 
ling orchards  have  suffered  more  than  the  grafted  ones, 
it  must  be  because  they  have  had  more  weak  spots. 
The  universal  favor  in  which  graftage  is  held  in 


94  GRAFTAGE. 

ica  is  itself  a  strong  presumption  in  its  favor.  Growers 
differ  among  themselves  as  to  the  best  methods  of  per- 
forming the  operation,  but  an  intelligent  American  will 
not  condemn  the  system  as  necessarily  bad  or  wrong.  In 
1890  there  were  growing  in  the  United  States  nurseries 
240,570,666  apple  trees,  88,494,367  plum  trees,  77,223,402 
pear  trees,  and  49,887,874  peach  trees,  with  enough  other 
species  to  make  the  total  of  fruit  trees  518,016,612.  All 
of  this  vast  number  will  go  as  grafted  or  budded  trees  to 
the  consumer,  and  he  will  accept  none  other.  It  is  true 
that  half  of  them  may  die  from  various  causes  before  they 
reach  bearing  age,  but  graftage  itself  plays  a  small  part 
in  the  failure,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  case  of  grapes  and 
small  fruits,  which  outnumber  the  tree  fruits  in  nursery 
stock,  and  of  which  less  than  one-half  probably  reach 
maturity,  and  yet  these  are  cutting-grown  plants.  It  is, 
in  nineteen  cases  out  of  twenty,  the  carelessness  of  the 
grower  which  brings  failure. 

It  is  impossible,  if  one  considers  the  facts  broadly  and 
candidly,  to  arrive  at  any  other  conclusion  than  this : 
Graftage  is  not  suited  to  all  plants,  but  in  those  to  which 
it  is  adapted— and  they  are  many— it  is  not  a  devitalizing 
process. 

2.    BUDDING. 

Budding  is  the  operation  of  applying  a  single  bud, 
bearing  little  or  no  wood,  to  the  surface  of  the  growing 
wood  of  the  stock.  The  bud  is  applied  directly  to  the 
cambium  layer  of  the  stock.  It  is  nearly  always  inserted 
under  the  bark  of  the  stock,  but  in  flute-budding  a  piece 
of  bark  is  entirely  removed,  and  the  bud  is  used  to  cover 
the  wound.  There  is  no  general  rule  to  determine  what 
species  of  plants  should  be  budded  and  which  ones  cion- 
grafted.  In  fact,  the  same  species  is  often  multiplied  by 
both  operations.  Plants  with  thin  bark  and  an  abundance 
of  sap  are  likely  to  do  best  when  grafted  ;  or  if  they  are 
budded,  the  buds  should  be  inserted  at  a  season  when  the 


SHIELD-BUDDING. 


95 


sap  is  least  abundant,  to  prevent  the  "strangulation  "  or 
"throwing  out"  of  the  bud.  In  such  species,  the  bark  is 
not  strong  enough  to  hold  the  bud  firmly  until  it  unites  ; 
and  solid  union  does  not  take  place  until  the  flow  of  "sap 
lessens.  Budding  is  largely  employed  upon  nearly  all 
young  fruit  trees,  and  almost  universally  so  upon  the  stone 
fruits.  It  is  also  used  in  roses  and  many  ornamental  trees. 
Upon  nursery  trees,  it  is  employed  in  a  greater  number  of 
cases  than  grafting  is,  but  grafting  is  in  commoner  use  for 
working-over  the  tops  of  large  trees.  Budding  is  com- 
monly performed  during  the  growing  season,  usually  in 
late  summer  or  early  fall,  because  mature  buds 
can  be  procured  at  that  time,  and  young  stocks 
are  then  large  enough  to  be  worked  readily. 
But  budding  can  be  done  in  early  spring,  just  as 
soon  as  the  bark  loosens  ;  in  this  case  perfectly 
dormant  buds  must  have  been  taken  in  winter 
and  kept  in  a  cellar,  ice-house  or  other  cool 
place.  Budding  is  always  best  performed  when 
the  bark  slips  or  peels  easily.  It  can  be  done 
when  the  bark  is  tight,  but  the  operation  is  then 
tedious  and  uncertain.  It  is  also  much  more  successful 
when  performed  in  dry,  clear  weather. 

Shield-budding.  —  There  is  but  one  style  of  budding  in 
general  use  in  this  country.  This  is  known  as  shield-bud- 
ding, from  the  shield-like  shape  of  the  portion  of  bark 
which  is  removed  with  the  bud.  Technically,  the  entire 
severed  portion,  comprising  both  bark  and  bud,  is  called 
a  "bud."  A  shield-bud  is  shown  natural  size  in  Fig.  85. 
This  is  cut  from  a  young  twig  of  the  present  season's 
growth.  It  is  inserted  underneath  the  bark  of  a  young 
stock  or  branch  (Fig.  91),  and  is  then  securely  tied,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  92. 

The  minor  details  of  shield-budding  differ  with  nearly 
every  operator,  and  with  the  kind  of  plant  which  is  to  be 
budded.  In  commercial  practice,  it  is  performed  in  the 
north  mostly  from  early  July  until  the  middle  of  Septem- 


g  GRAFT AGE. 

her.  In  the  southern  states  it  usually  begins  in  June.  As 
a  rule,  apples  and  pears  are  budded  earlier  in  the  season 
than  peaches  are.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  peach  stocks 
are  nearly  always  budded  the  same  season  the  pits  are 
planted,  and  the  operation  must  be  de- 
layed until  the  stocks  are  large  enough  to 
be  worked. 

Most  fruit-stocks,  especially  apples  and 
pears,  are  not  budded  until  two  years  after  the 
seeds  are  sown.     The  plants  grow  for  the  first 
season  in  a  seed-bed.     The  next  spring  they  are 
transplanted  into  nursery  rows,  and   budded  when 
they  become  large  enough,  which  is  usually  the  same 
year  they  are  transplanted.     The  nurseryman  reckons 
the  age  of  his  stock  from  the  time  of  transplanting, 
and  the  age  of  the  marketable  tree  from  the  time 
when  the  buds  or  grafts  begin  to  grow.    Stocks  are 
sometimes  "dressed"  or  trimmed  before  being  set 
into  the  nursery.     This  operation  consists  in  cutting 
off  a  fourth  or  third  of  the  top,  and  the  tap  root. 
This  causes  the  roots  to  spread  and  induces  a  vig- 
orous growth  of  top,  because  it  reduces  the  number 
of  shoots  ;  and  such  stocks  are  more  expeditiously 
handled  than  long  and  untrimmed  ones.     A  Manetti 
rose  stock,  dressed  and  ready  for  planting,  is  shown 
in  Fig.  86.     This  stock  was  grown  in  France,  and  upon 
being  received  in  this  country  was  trimmed  as 
it  is  now  seen.     It  will  now  (in  the  spring)  be 
set  in  the  nursery  row,  and  it  will  be  budded 
near  the  surface  of  the  ground  in  the  summer.  &  Dressed  rose 

Stocks  should  be  at  least  three-eighths  inch  5to^  (xtf  )•. 
in  diameter  to  be  budded  with  ease.  Just  before  the  buds 
are  set,  the  leaves  are  removed  from  the  base  of  the  stock, 
so  that  they  will  not  interfere  with  the  operation.  They  are 
usually  rubbed  off  with  the  hand  for  a  space  of  five  or  six 
inches  above  the  ground.  They  should  not  be  removed 
more  than  two  or  three  days  in  advance  of  budding,  else 


SHIELD-BUDDING.  97 

the  growth  of  the  parts  will  be  checked  and  the  bark  will 
"set."  Any  branches,  too,  as  in  the  quince,  which  might 
impede  the  work  of  the  budder,  are  to  be  cut  off  at  the  same 
time.  The  bud  is  inserted  an  inch  or  two  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  or  as  low  down  as  the  budder  can  work. 
The  advantage  of  setting  the  bud  low  is  to  bring 
the  resulting  crook  or  union  where  it  will  not  be 
seen,  and  to  enable  it  to  be  set  below  the  surface 
of  the  ground  when  the  tree  is  transplanted,  if  the 
planter  so  desires.  It  is  a  common  and  good 
practice,  also,  to  place  the  bud  upon  the  north  side  / 
of  the  stock  to  shield  it  from  the  sun.  A  greater  ' 
number  of  the  buds  will  grow  when  set  upon  the 
north  side. 

The  buds  are  taken  from  strong  and  well 
hardened  shoots  of  the  season's  growth  and  of  the 
desired  variety.  Usually  the  whole  of  the  present 
growth  is  cut,  the  leaves  are  removed,  but  a  part 
of  the  petiole  or  stalk  of  each  leaf  is  left  (as  in 
Figs.  85  and  87)  to  serve  as  a  handle  to  the  bud. 
This  trimmed  shoot  is  then  called  a  "stick."  A 
stick  may  bear  two  dozen  good  buds  when  the 
growth  has  been  strong,  but  only  ten  or  twelve 
buds  are  commonly  secured.  The  upper  buds, 
which  are  usually  not  fully  grown,  and  which  are 
borne  on  soft  wood,  are  usually  discarded. 

The  buds  are  cut  with  a  thin-bladed  sharp 
knife.  Various  styles  of  budding  knives  are  in 
use,  and  the  budder  usually  has  decided  prefer- 
ences for  some  particular  pattern.  The  essentials 
of  a  good  budding  knife  are  these  :  the  very  best  of  buds 


steel,  a  thin  blade  which  has  a  curved  or  half- 
circular  cutting  end,  which  is  light,  and  handy  in  shape. 
The  curved  end  of  the  blade  is  used  for  making  the  incisions 
in  the  stock.  The  handle  of  the  budding-knife  usually  runs 
into  a  thin  bone  scalpel  at  the  end,  and  this  portion  is 
designed  for  the  lifting  or  loosening  of  the  bark  on  the 


GRAFTAGE. 


stock.  The  operation  of  raising  the  bark  by  means  of  this 
scalpel  is  often  called  "boning."  Some  budders,  how- 
ever, raise  the  bark  with  the  blade.  A  good  form  of  blade, 
but  one  seldom  made,  has  a  rounded  end,  the  upper  side 


<&?.  Budding-knife  with  stationary  blade 

of  the  curve  being  ground  simply  to  a  thin  edge.  This 
blade  may  be  used  both  for  cutting  the  bark  and  loosening 
it,  thus  overcoming  the  necessity  of  reversing  the  knife 
every  time  a  bud  is  set.  If  this  form  of  blade  were  com- 
monly known  it  would  undoubtedly  soon  come  into  favor. 
The  blade  of  a  common  budding-knife  can  be  ground  to 
this  shape.  In  the  large  fruit-tree  nurseries  of  New  York 
state,  the  knife  shown  in  Fig.  88  is  in  common  use.  This 
is  a  cheap  knife  (costing  fifteen  cents  or  less  by  the  dozen), 
with  a  stationary  blade.  When  using  this  knife,  the  oper- 
ator loosens  the  bark  with  the 
rounded  edge  of  the  blade. 
The  bud  is  usually  cut 
about  an  inch  long.  Most 
budders  cut  from  below  up- 
wards (as  seen  in  the  in- 
verted stick  in  Fig.  87,  and 
in  Fig.  89),  but  some  prefer 
to  make  a  downward  inci- 
sion. It  does  not  matter  just 
how  the  bud  is  cut,  if  the 
surfaces  are  smooth  and 

89.    Cutting  the  bud.  ,       ,   . 

even,  and  the  bud  is  not  too 

thick.  Some  propagators  cut  the  buds  as  they  go,  while 
others  prefer  to  cut  a  whole  stick  before  setting  any, 
letting  each  bud  hang  by  a  bit  of  bark  at  the  top,  and 
which  is  cut  off  squarely  when  wanted,  as  is  shown  in 
Fig.  87.  On  a  stick  a  fourth  or  three-eighths  inch  through 


SHIELD-BUDDING. 


the  cut,  at  its  deepest  point  just  under  the  bud,  is  about 
one-fourth  the  diameter  of  the  twig.  A  bit  of  wood  is, 
therefore,  removed  with  the  bud,  as  shown  in  Fig.  85. 
There  is  some  discussion  as  to  whether  this  wood  should 
be  left  upon  the  bud,  but  no  definite  experiments  have 
been  made  to  show  that  it  is  injurious  to  the  resulting 
tree.  Some  budders  remove  the  wood  with  the  point  of 
the  knife  or  by  a  deft  twist  as  the  bud  is  taken  from  the 
stick.  But  buds  appear  to  live  equally  well  with  wood 
attached  or  removed.  The  bit  of 
wood  probably  serves  a  useful 
purpose  in  retaining  moisture  in 
the  bud,  but  it  at  the  same  time 
interposes  a  foreign  body  between 
the  healing  surfaces,  for  the  bark 
of  the  bud  unites  directly  with  the 
surface  of  the  stock.  Probably 
the  very  youngest  portions  of  the 
wood  in  the  bud  unite  with  the 
stock,  but  if  the  budding-knife 
cuts  deep,  the  denser  part  of  the 
wood  should  be  removed  from 
the  bud.  This  remark  is  particu- 
larly true,  also,  of  all  buds  which 

are  likely  to  be  cut  into  the  pith, 

,    J  90.  Preparing  the  stock  (x.%), 

as  in  the  nut  trees. 

The  wound  or  matrix  which  is  to  receive  the  bud  is  made 
by  two  incisions,  one  vertical  and  one  transverse  (Fig.  90). 
These  are  light  cuts,  extending  only  through  the  bark.  The 
vertical  slit  is  usually  made  first  and  by  the  rounded  end 
of  the  blade.  This  is  an  inch  or  inch  and  a  half  long.  The 
transverse  cut  is  made  across  the  top  of  the  vertical  cut  by 
one  rocking  motion  of  the  blade.  The  corners  of  the  bark 
may  be  lifted  a  little  by  an  outward  motion  of  the  blade  so 
as  to  allow  the  bud  to  be  pushed  in,  but  unless  the  bark 
slips  very  freely  it  will  have  to  be  loosened  by  the  end  of  the 
blade  or  by  the  scalpel  on  the  reverse  end  of  the  handle,  as 


100 


GRAFTAGE. 


previously  explained.  The  bud  is  now  inserted  in  the  cleft 
of  the  bark.  It  is  pushed  down  part  way  by  the  fingers,  as 
in  Fig.  91,  but  it  is  usually  driven  home  by 
pushing  down  upon  the  leaf-stalk  handle  with 
the  back  of  the  knife-blade.  The  entire  bud 
should  pass  into  the  cleft ;  or  if  a  portion  of 
it  should  project  above,  it  should  be  cut  off. 
If  the  bark  peels  freely,  the  bud  will  slip  in 
easily  and  will  follow  the  cleft,  but  if  it  sticks 
somewhat,  more  care  is  necessary  to  prevent 
the  bud  from  running  out.  If  the  bark  is  very 
tight,  it  may  have  to  be  loosened  with  the 
knife  throughout  the  length  of  the  cleft ;  but 
budding  should  be  performed,  if  possible, 
when  such  pains  is  not  necessary. 
The  bud  must  now  be  tied.  The 

.  TA..V  ^ 

whole  matrix  should  be  closed  and 
bound  securely,  as  repre- 
sented in  Fig.  92.  The 
string  is  usually  started  be- 
low the  bud,  usually  being 
wrapped  twice  below  the  bud 
and  about  thrice  above  it,  in 
fruit-trees,  the  lower  end  being  held  by  lapping 
the  second  course  over  it,  and  the  upper  end 
being  secured  by  drawing  a  bow  through  under 
the  upper  course,  or  sometimes  by  tying  an  ordi- 
nary hard  knot.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to 
bind  the  string  over  the  bud  itself.  The  strings 
are  previously  cut  the  required  length — about  a 
foot — and  the  tying  is  performed  very  quickly. 
Any  soft  cord  may  be  employed.  Yarn  and 
carpet  warp  are  sometimes  used.  The  most 

92.  The  bud  common    material,  at    least    until   the   last   few 
years,  has  been  bass-bark.      This  is  the   inner 

bark  of  the  bass-wood  or  linden.     The  bark  is  stripped  in 

early    summer,  and    the    inner   portion    is    macerated    or 


.    Bud  entering 
matrix 


TYING    SHIELD-BUDS.  IOI 

"rotted"  in  water  for  four  or  five  weeks.  It  is  then 
removed,  cut  into  the  desired  lengths,  and  stripped  into 
narrow  bands — one-fourth  to  one-half  inch  wide— when  it 
may  be  sorted  and  stored  away  for  future  use.  If  it  is  stiff 
and  harsh  when  it  comes  from  the  maceration,  it  should  be 
pounded  lightly  or  rubbed  through  the  hands  until  it 
becomes  soft  and  pliable.  The  best  tying  material  which 
we  now  have  is  undoubtedly  raffia.  It  is  an  imported 
article,  coming  from  the  eastern  tropics  (the  product  of  the 
palm  Raphia  Ruffia),  but  it  is  so  cheap  that  it  is  supersed- 
ing even  bass-bark.  It  is  strong  and  pliable,  and  is  an 
excellent  material  for  tying  up  plants  in  the  greenhouse,  or 
small  ones  outdoors.  The  greatest  disadvantage  in  its  use 
in  the  budding  field  is  its  habit  of  rolling  when  it  becomes 
dry,  but  it  may  be  dipped  in  water  a  few  minutes  before  it  is 
taken  into  the  field,  or,  better  still,  it  may  be  allowed  to  lie 
on  the  fresh  ground  during  the  previous  night,  during  which 
time  it  will  absorb  sufficient  moisture  to  become  pliable. 

In  two  or  three  weeks  after  the  bud  is  set,  it  will  have 
"stuck"  or  united  to  the  stock.  The  bandage  must  then 
be  removed  or  cut.  It  is  the  common  practice  to  draw  a 
budding-knife  over  the  strings,  on  the  side  opposite  the  bud, 
completely  severing  them  and  allowing  them  to  fall  off  as 
they  will.  If  the  strings  are  left  on  too  long  they  will  con- 
strict the  stem  and  often  kill  the  bud,  and  they  also  have  a 
tendency  to  cause  the  bud  to  "break  "  or  to  begin  to  grow. 
The  bud  should  remain  perfectly  dormant  until  spring,  for  if 
it  should  begin  to  grow  it  will  be  injured  and  perhaps  killed 
by  the  winter.  It  should  remain  green  and  fresh  ;  if  it 
shrivels  and  becomes  brown,  even  though  it  still  adheres  to 
the  stock,  it  is  worthless.  Advantage  can  be  taken,  when 
cutting  the  tyings,  to  rebud  any  stocks  which  have  failed. 
If  the  bud  should  begin  to  grow,  because  of  a  warm  and  wet 
fall  or  other  reasons,  there  is  little  remedy  except  perhaps  to 
head  the  shoot  back  if  it  should  become  long  enough.  If 
the  stocks  are  protected  by  snow  during  winter,  some  of 
the  buds  at  the  base  of  the  shoot  may  pass  the  cold  in 
H 


102 


GRAFTAGE. 


safety.     A  dormant  bud,  as  it  appears  in  the  winter  follow- 
ing the  budding,  is  shown  in  Fig.  93.     This  bud  was  inserted 
in  August,  1895 ;    the  picture  was  made  in 
March,  1896 ;  the  bud  should  have  started 
to  grow  in  May,  1896. 

The  spring  following  the  budding,  the 
stock  should  be  cut  off  just  above  the  bud, 
in  order  to  throw  the  entire  force  of  the 
plant  into  the  bud.  The  stock  is  gener- 
ally, and  preferably,  cut  off  twice.  The 
first  cutting  leaves  the  stub  4  or  5  inches 
long  above  the  bud.  This  cutting  is  made 
as  soon  as  the  stocks  begin  to  show  any 
signs  of  activity.  Two  weeks  later,  or 
when  the  bud  has  begun  to  grow  (the 
shoot  having  reached  the  length  of  an  inch 
or  two),  the  stock  is  again  cut  off  a  half- 

<&  inch     above    the 

/  jftfr  \gj^.  bud  (Fig-  94)- 
A  greater  pro- 
portion of  buds  will  usually 
grow  if  this  double  heading- 
in  is  done,  in  outdoor  condi- 
tions, than  if  the  stock  is  cut  back  to  the 
bud  at  the  first  operation.  If  the  root  is 
strong  and  the  soil  good,  the  bud  will  grow 
2  to  6  feet  the  first  year,  depending  much 
upon  the  species.  All  sprouts  should  be 
kept  rubbed  off  the  stock,  and  the  bud 
should  be  trained  to  a  single  stem.  In 
some  weak  and  crooked  growers,  the  new 
shoot  must  be  tied,  and  some  propagators 
94.  Cutting  off  the  m  such  cases  cut  off  the  stock  5  or  6 
stock  (*.%)'  inches  above  the  bud  and  let  it  serve  as  a 
stake  to  which  to  tie ;  but  this  operation  is  too  expensive 
to  be  employed  on  common  fruit  trees.  The  stock,  of 
course,  must  not  be  allowed  to  grow.  Late  in  the  season 


JUNE    BUDDING.  IO3 

the  stock  is  cut  down  close  to  the  bud.  Peaches  and 
some  other  fruits  are  sold  after  having  made  one  season's 
growth  from  the  bud,  but  pears,  apples,  and  most  other 
trees  are  not  often  sold  until  the  second  or  third  year. 

"June  budding"  is  a  term  applied  to  the  budding  of 
stocks  in  early  summer,  while  they  are  yet  growing  rap- 
idly. It  is  employed  at  the  south,  where  the  stocks  can  be 
grown  to  sufficient  size  by  the  last  of  June  or  first  of  July. 
Small  stocks  are  usually  employed — those  ranging  from 
one-fourth  to  one-third  inch  being  preferred.  A  few 
strong  leaves  should  be  left  on  the  stock  below  the  bud, 
and  after  the  bud  has  "stuck,"  the  whole  top  should  not 
be  cut  off  at  once,  else  the  growing  plant  will  receive  a 
too  severe  check.  It  is  best  to  bend  the  top  over  to 
check  its  growth,  or  to  remove  the  leaves  gradually.  The 
bandages  should  not  be  left  on  longer  than  six  to  ten  days 
if  the  stock  is  growing  rapidly.  To  prevent  the  constric- 
tion of  the  stem,  muslin  bands  are  sometimes  used  instead 
of  bass  or  raffia.  In  hot  and  dry  climates  the  buds  should 
be  set  an  inch  or  two  higher  in  June  budding  than  in  the 
ordinary  practice,  to  escape  the  great  heat  of  the  soil. 
June  budding  is  used  upon  the  peach  more  than  any  other 
tree,  although  it  can  be  employed  for  any  species  which 
will  give  large  enough  stocks  from  seed  by  the  June  fol- 
lowing the  sowing.  In  peaches,  the  bud  will  produce  a 
shoot  from  3  to  5  feet  high  the  same  season  the  buds  are 
set,  so  that  marketable  budded  trees  can  be  produced  in 
one  season  from  the  seed. 

A  different  kind  of  early  summer  budding  is  sometimes 
performed  upon  apples  and  other  fruit-trees.  In  this  case, 
the  stocks  are  one  or  two  years  old  from  the  transplanting, 
the  same  as  for  common  budding,  but  dormant  buds  are 
used.  These  buds  are  cut  the  previous  fall  or  winter  in  the 
same  manner  as  cions,  and  when  spring  approaches  they 
are  put  on  ice— in  sawdust,  sand  or  moss— and  kept  until 
the  stocks  are  large  enough  to  receive  them.  The  particu- 
lar advantage  of  this  method  is  the  distributing  of  the  labor 


IO4  GRAFTAGE. 

of  budding  over  a  longer  season,  thereby  avoiding  the  rush 
which  often  occurs  at  the  regular  budding  time.  It  is  also  a 
very  useful  means  of  top-working  trees,  for  the  buds  start 
the  same  season  in  which  the  buds  are  set,  and  a  whole  sea- 
son is  thereby  saved  as  compared  with  the  common  summer 
or  fall  budding. 

Rudders  usually  carry  a  number  of  "  sticks  "  with  them 
when  they  enter  the  nursery.  These  may  be  carried  in  the 
pocket,  or  thrust  into  the  boot-leg ;  or  some  budders  carry 
four  or  five  sticks  in  the  hand.  The  budder  follows  a  row- 
throughout  its  length,  passing  over  those  trees  which  are  too 

small  to  work.  It  is  a 
common  practice  to 
rest  upon  one  knee 
while  budding,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  95,  but 
some  prefer  to  use  a 
low  stool.  It  is  a 
common  practice,  in 
some  nursery  regions, 
for  budders  to  use  a 

95.   Budder  at  work.  low   box    with    half  of 

the    top    covered    to 

serve  as  a  seat,  and  the  box  is  used  for  carrying  buds,  string, 
knives  and  whetstone.  The  tying  is  usually  done  by  a  boy, 
who  should  follow  close  behind  the  budder,  in  order  that 
the  buds  shall  not  dry  out.  An  expert  budder  will  set 
from  1,000  to  3,000  buds  a  day,  in  good  stock,  and  with  a 
boy  (or  two  of  them  for  the  latter  speed)  to  tie.  Peach 
stocks  are  more  rapidly  budded  than  most  others,  as  the 
bark  is  firm  and  slips  easily,  and  some  remarkable  records 
are  made  by  skillful  workmen. 

Budding  is  sometimes  employed  the  same  as  top-grafting 
for  changing  over  the  top  of  an  old  tree  from  one  variety  to 
another.  The  buds  cannot  be  easily  inserted  in  very  old 
and  stiff  bark,  but  in  all  smooth  and  fresh  bark  they  work 
readily,  even  if  the  limb  is  three  or  four  years  old  ;  but  the 


PRONG-    AND    PLATE-BUDDING.  IO5 

younger  the  limb,  the  greater  the  proportion  of  buds  which 
may  be  expected  to  live.  Sometimes  old  trees  are  severely 
pruned  the  year  before  the  budding  is  to 
be  done,  in  order  to  obtain  young  shoots 
in  which  to  set  the  buds.  In  fruit  trees  six 
or  seven  years  old  or  less,  budding  is  fully 
as  advantageous  as  grafting.  New  varie- 
ties are  also  budded  into  old  branches  in  order 
to  hasten  bearing  of  the  bud,  for  the  purpose  of 
testing  the  variety.  Here  budding  has  a  distinct 
advantage  over  grafting,  as  it  uses  fewer  buds,  and 
the  wood  of  new  sorts  is  often  scarce. 

Prong-budding. — A  modification  of  the  com-  p6. 
mon  shield-bud  is  the  use  of  a  short  prong  or  spur  6ud(Kl)- 
in  the  place  of  a  simple  bud.  The  bud  is  cut  in  essentially 
the  same  manner  as  the  shield-bud  (Fig.  96).  This  is  chiefly 
used  upon  the  Pacific  coast  for  nut  trees,  particularly  for 
the  walnut,  and  when  the  trees  are  dormant.  The  method 
is  very  much  like  grafting,  for  the  stock  is  cut  off  just  above 
the  bud  when  the  operation  is  performed,  and  the  wound, 
in  addition  to  being  tied,  is  covered  over  with  grafting  wax. 
In  budding  the  walnut,  it  is  essential  that  nearly  all  the 
wood  be  removed  from  the  bud,  in  order  to  bring  as  much 
as  possible  of  the  bark  in  direct  contact  with  the  stock. 
This  is  sometimes  called  twig-budding. 

Plate -budding  is  a  method  sometimes  em- 
ployed with  the  olive,  and  is  probably  adapted 
to    other   species.     A    rectangular    incision   is 
made  through  the  bark  of  the  stock,  and  the 
flap  of  bark  is  turned  down  (Fig.  97).     A  bud 
is  cut  of  similar  shape,  with  no  wood  attached, 
and  it  is  inserted  in  the  rectangular  space,  and 
is  then  covered  with  the  flap,  which  is  brought 
97.  Plate-bud-  up  and  tied.     The  subsequent  treatment  of  the 
ding  (x%).     buci  is  simiiar  to  that  of  the  ordinary  shield-bud. 
A  method  of  winter  budding  used  at  the  Texas  Experj- 


io6 


GRAFTAGE. 


98 


ment  Station  (Bull.  37,  p.  713  ;  Sixth  Rep.,  414)  is  evidently 
a  modification  of  this  plate^budding:  "  The  method  is  simply 
to  cut  a  slice  of  bark  down  the  stock,  leaving 
it  still  attached  to  the  stock  at  the  lower  end,  to 
help  hold  the  bud.  Part  of  the  loose  strip  is 
then  cut  off  and  the  bud  fitted  over  the  cut 
place  with  the  lower  end  being  held  firmly  by 
the  part  of  the  slip  left.  A  piece  of  raffia  is 
then  tied  around  the  bud  to  hold  it  firmly." 

H-buddinj  (Fig.  98)  is  a  modification  of  plate- 
budding.  In  this  method,  a  flap  is  formed  both 
above  and  below,  covering  the  bud  from  both 
ends,  and  allowing  of  more  per- 
fect fitting  of  the  bark  about 
the  bulge  of  the  bud. 

Flute-budding.  —  An  occa- 
sional  method  of  budding  is  that 
known  under  the  general  name 
of  flute-budding.  In  this  method  the  bud 
is  not  covered  by  the  bark  of  the  stock,  as 
in  the  other  methods  here  described.  Fig. 
99  illustrates  it.  A  portion  of  bark  is  re- 
moved entirely  from  the  stock,  and  a  similar 
piece  is  fitted  into  its  place.  When  the 
wound  extends  only  part  way  about  the 
stem,  as  in  the  illustration,  the  operation  is 

sometimes  known  as  veneer-budding.  99  Flute-budding 
When  it  extends  entirely  round  the 
stem  it  is  called  ring  or  annular-budding.  Flute-bud- 
ding is  usually  performed  late  in  the  spring.  It  is  best 
adapted  to  plants  with  very  thick  and  heavy  bark. 
The  bud  is  tied  and  afterwards  treated  in  essentially 
the  same  manner  as  in  shield-budding.  A  species  of 
flute-budding  in  which  a  ring  of  bark  is  slipped  down 
ioo.  Chip  upon  the  tip  of  a  shoot,  which  has  been  girdled  for  the 
(x^i).  purpose,  is  called  whistle-  or  tubular-budding. 


GRAFTING. — CUTTING    THE    CIONS.  107 

Chip-budding  (Fig.  100}  is  a  method  which  inserts  a  chip 
of  bark  and  wood  into  a  mortise  in  the  stock.  It  is  used 
in  spring,  when  the  stock  is  dormant  and  the  bark  does  not 
slip.  It  is  held  in  place  by  tying,  and  it  is  better  for  being 
covered  with  wax. 


3.    GRAFTING. 

Grafting  is  the  operation  of  inserting  a  cion — or  a  twig 
comprising  one  or  more  buds — into  the  stock,  usually  into 
an  incision  made  in  the  wood.  It  is  divided  or  classified 
in  various  ways,  but  chiefly  with  reference  to  the  position 
of  the  union  upon  the  plant,  and  to  the  method  in  which 
the  cion  and  stock  are  joined.  In  reference  to  position, 
there  are  four  general  classes:  i.  Root-grafting,  in  which 
the  stock  is  entirely  a  root.  2.  Crown-grafting,  which  is 
performed  upon  the  crown  or  collar  of  the  plant  just  at  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  an  operation  which  is  often  con- 
founded with  root-grafting.  3.  Stem-grafting,  in  which  the 
cion  is  set  on  the  trunk  or  body  of  the  tree  below  the 
limbs,  a  method  occasionally  employed  with  young  trees. 
4.  Top-grafting,  or  grafting  in  the  branches  of  the  tree. 
Any  method  of  inserting  the  cion  may  be  employed  in 
these  classes.  The  best  classification,  particularly  for  pur- 
poses of  description,  is  that  which  considers  methods  of 
making  the  union.  Some  of  these  kinds  of  grafting  are 
catalogued  on  pages  80  and  81.  The  most  important 
methods  of  grafting  are  now  to  be  considered  ;  but  al- 
most endless  modifications  may  be  made  in  the  details  of 
the  operations.  The  union  of  the  cion  with  the  stock, 
like  the  union  of  the  bud  and  the  stock,  depends  upon 
the  growing  together  of  the  cambial  tissue  of  the  two. 
It  is,  therefore,  essential  that  the  tissue  lying  between  the 
outer  bark  and  the  wood  in  the  cion  should  come  closely 
in  contact  with  the  similar  tissue  of  the  stock. 

Cions  are  cut  in  fall  or  winter,  or  any  time  before  the 
buds  swell  in  spring.  Only  the  previous  year's  growth  is 


IO8  GRAFTAGE. 

used  in  all  ordinary  cases,  but  in  maples  and  some  other 
trees,  older  wood  may  be  used.    In  the  grafting  of  peaches  — 
which  is  very  rarely  done  —  the  best  cions  are  supposed  to 
be  those  which  bear  a  small  portion  of  two-year-old 
wood  at  the  lower  end.     This  portion  of  old  wood 
probably  serves  no  other  purpose  than  a  mechanical 
one,  as  the  recent  wood  is  soft  and  pithy.     It  is  a 
common  opinion  that  cions  are  worthless  if  cut  dur- 
ing freezing  weather,  but   this    is  unfounded.      The 
cions  are  stored  in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust  in  a  cool 
cellar,  or  they  may  be  buried  in  a  sandy  place.     Or 
sometimes,  when  a  few  are  wanted  for  top-grafting, 
they  are  thrust  into  the  ground  beside  the  tree  into 
which   they  are  to   be  set  the  following  spring.     If 
the  cions  are  likely  to  start  before  the  spring  graft- 
ing  can   be   done,   they  may    be    placed    in    an  ice 
Cion  of  house.     Only  well-formed   and   mature  buds 
hip^graft  should  be  used.     Sometimes  flower-buds  are 
inserted  for  the  purpose  of  fruiting  a  new  or 
rare  variety  the  following  year,  but  unless  particular 
pains  is  taken  to  nurse  such  a  cion,  it  is  apt  to  give 
only  very  indifferent  results. 

Whip-grafting.—  Whip  or  tongue-grafting  is  em- 
ployed only  on  small  stocks,  usually  upon  those  one 
or  two  years  old.  Both  the  cion  and  stock  are  cut 
across  diagonally,  the  cut  surface  extending  from  i 
to  2  inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  part.  A 
vertical  cleft  is  then  made  in  both,  and  the  two  are 
joined  by  shoving  the  tongue  of  the  cion  into  the  cleft 
of  the  stock.  The  operation  can  be  understood 
by  reference  to  Figs.  101,  102  and  103.  Fig.  101 
shows  the  end  of  a  cion,  cut  natural  size.  The 
stock  is  cut  in  the  same  manner,  and  the  two  are 
joined  in  Figs.  102  and  103.  The  parts  are  held 
firmly  by  a  bandage—  as  bass  bark  or  raffia  —  passed 


five  or  six  times  around  them.    If  the  graft  is  to  stand  xr*f*  in 

.  .     .      position. 

above  ground,   the  wound  must   be   protected    by     (x^>. 


ROOT-GRAFTING.  IOQ 

applying  wax  over  the  bandage.     ( Recipes  for  wax  may  be 
found  at  the  end  of  this  chapter. ) 

Root-grafting,  especially  of  fruit  stocks,  is  per- 
formed almost  entirely  by  the  whip-graft.  This  opera- 
tion is  performed  in  winter.  The  stocks,  either  one 
or  two  years  old,  are  dug  and  stored  in  the  fall.  In 
January  or  February  the  grafting  is  begun.  In  true 
ro*ot-grafting,  only  pieces  of  roots  are  used,  but  some 
prefer  to  use  the  whole  root  and  graft  at  the  crown. 
In  piece-root-grafting,  from  two  to  four  trees  are 
made  from  a  single  root.  A  piece  of  root  from  two 
to  four  inches  long  is  used,  as  shown  in  Fig.  103. 
The  parts  are  usually  held  by  winding  with  waxed 
string  or  waxed  bands.  The  string  should  be  strong 
enough  to  hold  the  parts  securely  and  yet  weak 
enough  to  be  broken  without  hurting  the  hands. 
No.  18  knitting  cotton  answers  this  purpose  admir- 
ably. It  should  be  bought  in  balls,  which  are 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  minutes  in  melted  wax. 
The  wax  soon  saturates  the  ball.  The  ball  is  then 
removed  and  laid  away  to  dry,  when  it  is  ready 
for  use.  This  waxed  string  will  remain  almost  in- 
definitely in  condition  for  use.  Waxed  bands, 
which  are  sometimes  used,  are  made  by  spread- 
ing melted  wax  over  thin  muslin,  which  is  cut 
into  narrow  strips  when  dry.  The  string  is  the 
more  useful  for  rapid  work.  The  grafts  are 
packed  away  in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust  in  a  cool 
cellar  until  spring,  when  the  two  parts  will  be 
firmly  callused  together.  Some  propagators  I03'  Root-z™ 
are  now  discarding  all  tying  of  root-grafts.  The  grafts  are 
packed  away  snugly,  and  if  the  storage  cellar  is  cool— not 
above  40° — they  will  knit  together  so  that  they  can  be 
planted  without  danger  of  breaking  apart.  If  the  cellar  is 
warm,  the  grafts  will  start  into  growth  and  be  lost.  It  is 
very  important  that  the  cellar  in  which  root-grafts  are 
stored  shall  not  become  close  or  warm,  else  the  grafts  will 


no 


GRAFTAGE. 


104. 


heat  or  rot.  Some  of  the  characteristics  of  root-grafted  trees 
are  discussed  in  the  last  part  of  this 
chapter. 

In  common  root-grafting  in  the  east 
and  south,  the  cion  bears  about  three 
buds,  and  the  root  is  about  the  same 
length,  or  perhaps  shorter.     The  va- 
riable and  unknown  character  of  these 
roots  as,  regards  hardiness,  renders  it 
important  that,    in  very    severe    climates,  roots 
should  be  obtained  from  the  same  plant  as  the 
cion,   the  hardiness  of  which  is   known.     It  is, 
therefore,  the  practice  in  the  prairie  states  to  use 
a  very  long  cion—  8  inches  to  a  foot  —  and  to  set 
it  in  the  ground  up  to  the  top  bud.     The  piece  of 
root  serves  as  a  temporary  support,  and  roots  are 
emitted  along  the  cion.     When  the 
tree  is  ready  for  sale  the  old  piece 
of  root  is  often  removed,  or  some- 
times it  falls  away  of  itself.     In 
this  manner  own-rooted  trees  are 
obtained,  and  it  is  for  this  reason 
that  root-grafting  is  more  univer- 
sally practiced  west  of  the  Great  Lakes 
than  budding  is.     Even  cions  of  ordi- 
nary length  often  emit  roots,  as  seen 
in  Fig.  104,  but  such  cions  are  not  long 
enough  to  reach  into  uniformly  moist 
soil.     In  practice,    some    varieties  of 
fruit  trees  are  found  to  emit  roots  from 
the  cion  more    readily  than    others. 
Root-grafting  is  often  cheaper    than 
budding,  as  it  is  performed  when  labor 
is  cheap,  and  two  or  more  trees  are 
made  from  one  stock. 

Cuttings   may    be  used   as   stocks 
Growing  root-graft  (x^)-   in  those  instances  in  which  a  variety 


MODIFICATIONS     OF     THE     WHIP-GRAFT. 


Ill 


which  grows  readily  from  cuttings  unites  quickly  with  a 
variety  which  does  not  grow  from  cuttings.  Fig.  105  illus- 
trates such  a  case.  The  stock,  or  cutting,  is  the  true 
Downing  mulberry,  which  strikes  root  readily.  The 
cion  is  any  of  the  varieties  of  Morus  alba  or  M. 
rubra,  like  the  New  American  or  Hicks,  which  roots 
with  difficulty  from  cuttings.  In  this  instance,  the 
buds  have  been  cut  from  the  stock  to  prevent  it 
from  suckering. 

Any  sharp  and  strong  thin-bladed  knife  may  be 
used  for  the  making  of  whip-grafts.  For  small 
and  tender  plants,  a  common  budding-knife  is  suf- 
ficient, but  it  is  too  light  for  most  work.  A  favor- 
ite style  of  knife  for  root-grafting  is  shown  in 
Fig.  106.  It  is  much  like  a  shoe-knife,  with  large, 
cylindrical  handle  and  a  stationary  blade.  These 
knives  can  be  had  by  the  dozen  for  about  twenty- 
five  cents  apiece. 

Modified  Whip-grafts. — There  are  many  modifi- 
cations of  the  whip-graft.  One  of  them  (Fig..  107),  |H 
used  for  the  grape,  is  described  by  Lodeman  in 
"The  Grafting  of  Grapes"  (Bulletin  77,  Cornell 
Experiment  Station)  :  "Fig.  107  represents  a  form 
of  grafting  which  is  quite  common  in  Italy.  The 
stock  is  cut  off  at  an  angle  an  inch  or  two  below 
the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  is  then  split  downward, 
beginning  a  little  above  the  center  of  the  cut  sur- 
face. This  downward  cut  is  made  at  a  slight 
angle  to  the  grain,  in  order  to  prevent  splitting. 
In  true  tongue  or  whip-grafting  the  cion  is  pre- 
pared in  the  same  manner  as  the  stock ;  but  in  the 
graft  shown  in  the  figure,  a  portion  of  the  bark  is 


106.  Grafting-knife  with  stationary  blade  (x.%). 


112 


GRAFTAGE. 


707.  A  modified  whip- 
graft,  on  a  grape 
stock  (xtf). 


first  removed,  and  from  the  lower  end  of  this  cut  another 

is  made  inward  and  upward,  in  order  to  form  the  tongue. 
The  cion  is  not  cut  in  two  when  the  tongue  is 
made,  as  is  the  stock,  but  it  extends  below  and 
also  takes  root.     Cion  and  stock  are  then  united, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  107,  care  being  take  to  have  the 
cambium  layers  in  contact  on  one  side. 
When  cuttings  or  parts  of  equal  dia- 
meters are  grafted  by  the  tongue-graft, 
the  layers  on  both  sides  may  be  placed 
together.     The  tying  of  grafts  is  advis- 
able when  small  wood  is  used,  but  large 
stocks,  when  cut  below  the  ground, 
scarcely  require  this  precaution.  When 
the  operation  is  finished,  the  soil   is 
heaped  up,  as  in  cleft-grafting." 

An  old-fashion- 
ed modification   of 

the  whip-graft  leaves  the  end  of  the  cion 

4  or  5  inches  long,  so  that  it  may  project 

downwards  into  a  bottle  or  dish  of  water, 

thereby  absorbing  sufficient  moisture  to 

maintain  the  cion  until  it  unites  with  the 

stock.      Another  modification,  with   the 

same  purpose  in  view,    is  to   allow   the 

ends  of  the  tying  material  to  fall  into  the 

water.     These  methods  are  called  "bot- 

tle-grafting" in  the    books.      They 

really    of    no     account,    although 

they     might      be     employed     for 

certain   difficult    subjects   amongst 

ornamental      plants  ;       but      even 

there,   better    results    can    be   ob- 

tained by    placing  the  grafts   in  a 

close  frame    (like   that  shown    in 

Fig.   47),    or  by  packing  them  in 

J     J 

moss, 


108.  Double  whip-graft 


SADDLE,     SPLICE,    AND     VENEER-GRAFTS.  113 

A  "double  whip-graft"  is  shown  in  Fig.  108.  In  this 
method,  the  cion  is  cut  upon  one  side  into  a  wedge,  and 
upon  the  other  with  a  long  tongue  (H).  The 
stock  is  provided  with  two  clefts,  at  R  and  p. 
This  cion,  having  two  supports  in  the  stock,  forms 
a  most  intimate  contact  with  its  host ;  but  it  is  too 
slow,  and  the  rewards  too  slight,  to  warrant  its 
general  use.  This  is  sometimes,  but  erroneously, 
called  a  saddle-graft. 

Saddle-grafting. — Saddle-grafting  is  a  simple 
and  useful  method  for  the  shoots  of  small  growing 
plants.  The  stock  is  cut  to  a  wedge-shape  end 
by  two  cuts,  and  the  cion  is  split  and  set 
upon  the  wedge  (Fig.  109).  The  union  is 
then  tied  and  waxed  in  the  same  way  as 
exposed  whip-grafts.  It  is  oftenest  em- 
ployed when  a  terminal  bud  is  used,  as 
the  wood  in  such  cions  is  usually  too  weak 
to  work  easily  with  a  tongue. 

Splice-grafting.— The  simplest  form  of  109.  Saddit 
grafting  is  that  shown  in  Fig.  no,  in  which  ***&(*&• 
the  two  parts  are  simply  cut  across  diagonally  and 
laid   together.     The    parts    are    held    only  by  the 
string,  which,  together  with  the  wax,  is  applied  in 
the  same  way  as  upon  the  whip-graft.     Splice-graft- 
ing is  frequently  used  upon  soft  or  tender  wood 
which  will  not  admit  of  splitting.      It  is  adapted 
only  to  small  shoots. 

Veneer-grafting.— Fig.  in  shows  a  style  of  graft- 
ing which  is  much  used,  particularly  for  ornamen- 
tals and  for  rare  stocks  which  are  grown  in  pots. 
An  incision  is  made  upon  the  stock  just  through  the 
Splice-     bark  and  about  an  inch  long  (A,  Fig.  in ),  the  bit  of 
*TxJ*1)**'  kar"k  being  removed  by  means  of  a  downward  slop- 
ing cut  at  its  base.     The  base  of  the  cion  is  cut 
off  obliquely,  and  upon  the  longest  side  a  portion  of  bark  - 


no. 


GRAFTAGE. 


is  removed,  corresponding  to  the  portion  taken  from  the 
stock.  The  little  tongue  of  bark  on  the  stock  covers  the 
base  of  the  cion  when  it  is  set.  The  cion  is  tied  tightly  to 
the  stock  (B,  Fig.  in),  usually  with  raffia.  This  method  of 
grafting  makes  no  incision  into  the  wood,  and  all  wounded 
surfaces  are  completely  covered  by  the  matching  of  the  cion 
and  stock.  (See  Fig.  83,  page  88,  and  compare  it  with  the 
picture  of  a  whip-graft  union  in  Fig.  84,  page  89.)  It  is 

not  necessary,  there- 
fore, to  wax  over  the 
wounds,  as  a  rule. 
If  used  in  the  open, 
however,  wax  should 
be  used.  The  parts 
grow  together  uni- 
formly and  quickly, 
making  a  solid  and 
perfect  union,  as 
shown  at  D.  So  far 
as  the  union  of  the 
parts  is  concerned, 
this  is  probably  the 
ideal  method  of 
grafting.  This  meth- 
od, which  is  nothing 
but  the  side-graft  of 
the  English  garden- 
ers with  the  most 

important  addition  of  a  longer  tongue  on  the  stock,  is 
known  by  various  names,  but  it  is  oftenest  called  veneer- 
grafting  in  this  country. 

Veneer-grafting  is  employed  mostly  from  November  to 
March,  upon  potted  plants.  Stocks  which  are  grown  out- 
doors are  potted  in  the  early  fall  and  carried  over  in  a  cool 
house  or  pit.  The  cion  is  applied  an  inch  or  two  above  the 
surface  of  the  soil,  and  the  stock  need  not  be  headed  back 
until  the  cion  has  united.  (See  Fig.  112.)  Both  dormant 


VENEER     AND     SIDE-GRAFTS. 


and  growing  cions  are  used.  All  plants  in  full  sap  must  be 
placed  under  a  frame  in  the  house,  in 
which  they  can  be  almost  entirely  buried 
with  sphagnum,  not  too  wet.  and  the 
house  must  be  kept  cool  and  rather  moist 
until  the  cions  are  well  established. 
Some  species  can  be  transferred  to 
the  open  border  or  to  nursery  rows 
in  the  spring,  but  most  plants 
which  are  grafted  in  this  way  are 
handled  in  pots  during  the  follow- 
ing season.  Rhododendrons,  Ja- 
panese maples  and  many  conifers 
are  some  of  the  plants  which  are  multi- 
plied by  veneer-grafting.  Such  plants 
are  usually  laid  upon  their  sides  in 
frames  (Fig.  47)  and  covered  with  moss 
tor  several  days,  or  until 
healing  begins  to  take 
place.  This  method,  when 
used  with  hardy  or  tender 
plants,  gives  a  great  ad- 
vantage in  much  experi- 
mental work,  because  the  stock  is  no  ^fc 
at  all  injured  by  a  failure,  and  can  be^^&k 
used  over  again  many  times,  perhaps  ^^ 
even  in  the  same  season  ;  and  the  ma-  ^\ 
nipulation  is  simple,  and  easily  acquired  \ 

by  inexperienced  hands. 

Side-grafting. — There     are    various 
methods  of  inserting  a  cion  into  the 
side  of  a  stock  without  cutting  off  the 
stock.     One  of  the  best  styles  is  shown 
in  Fig.   113.      The  example  upon  the 
right  shows  the  cion  set  into  an  oblique    //J'  S 
cut  in  the  stock,  and  that  upon  the  left  shows  the  lower 
part  of  a  thin-bladed  chisel,  with  a  bent  shank,  used. for 


112.    Veneer  graft  (x.%). 


GRAFTAGE. 


making  tne  incision.  An  ordinary  chisel  or  a  knife  may 
be  used,  however.  The  incision  should  be  about  an  inch 
deep.  The  cion  is  cut  wedge-shape,  as 
for  cleft-grafting,  and  it  is  pressed  into 
the  incision  until  its  cut  surfaces  are  con- 
cealed in  the  stock.  The  wound  is  then 
tied,  and,  if  it  is  above  ground  in  the 
open,  it  is  waxed.  The  stock  is  headed 
back  vigorously  to  aid  in  deflecting  a  part 
of  the  energy  into  the  cion.  This  method 
of  grafting  may  be  used  to  good  advan- 
tage upon  rather  small  grape  stocks,  be- 
low the  surface  of  the  ground. 

A  modification  of  this  style  of  side- 
grafting  is  the  "cutting  side-graft," 
shown  in  Fig.  114.  This  is  adapted  to 
root-grafting,  particularly  of  the  grape. 
The  stock  is  cut  wedge-shape,  and  is  in- 
serted into  an  oblique  incision  in  the  cion. 
A  side-graft  which  is  a  combination  of 
budding  and  grafting  is 
shown  in  Fig.  115.  The 
incision  in  the  stock  is 
exactly  like  that  made  for  shield-budding 
(Fig.  90),  but  a  cion,  cut  wedge-shape,  is 
used  in  place  of  a  bud.  The  graft  is  tied 
and  waxed.  This  style  of  grafting  is  use- 
ful for  many  difficult  subjects.  It  is  admi- 
rably adapted  to  the  mulberry,  in  which  the 
operation  should  be  performed  just  as  the 
foliage  is  well  started  in  the  spring,  with 
dormant  cions.  The  stock  is  headed  back 
a  week  or  so  after  the  cion  is  set,  and  again 
at  intervals  during  the  season.  The  cion  will 
often  make  sufficient  growth  the  first  season 
to  form  a  salable  tree  by  fall.  Purple  and  "5-  Shield-graft- 

,      ,     .          .  .  ing,    or  cion- 

weeping    beeches    may  be  grafted  in    this         budding  (xi). 


114.   Cutting:   side- 
graft 


INLAYING-GRAFTING. 


117 


same  fashion,  except  that  the  operation  should  be  done  in 
late  summer  or  fall,  with  freshly  cut  cions,  much  the  same 
as  summer  budding  is  done. 

Inlaying.—  There  are  various  styles  of  graft- 
ing in  which  a  piece  of  wood  is  removed  from 
the  stock  and  a  cion  is  cut  to  fill  the  cavity. 
The  following  methods  described  by  Lodeman 
for  the  grafting  of  grapes  (Bulletin  77,  Cornell 
Experiment  Station),  will  serve  as  a  typ^j  of 
the  class:  "The  stock  is  cut  off,  as  for  cleft 
grafting.  In  place  of  splitting  the  stub,  one  or 
two  V-shaped  grooves  are  made  in  it  (Fig.  1  16). 
These  grooves  are  made  by  means  of  an  instru. 

.    ,,        ,  ,    ,,         .  //<5     Inlaying  on 

ment  especially  designed  for  the  purpose.     It    a  grape  stock 


is  shown  in  Fig.  117.  The  tip  cuts  out  the 
triangular  part.  In  the  blade  itself  is  a  part  which  is  bent 
at  the  same  angles  as  the  parts  forming  the  tip.  This 
indented  portion  of  the  blade  is  used  for  cutting  away  the 
end  of  the  cion,  and  with  very  little  practice  an  almost 
perfect  fit  of  the  two  parts  can  be  made.  The  one  or  two 
cions  are  then  placed  upon  the  stock  and  are  firmly  tied 
there.  The  tying  material  should  be  of  such  a  nature  that  it 
will  decay  before  there  is  any  danger  of  strangling  the  cions. 
Raphia  does  very  well,  as  does  also  bast.  No.  18  knit- 
ting cotton,  soaked  in  boiling  grafting  wax,  may  be  used 
with  entire  satisfaction.  The  ligatures  should  be  made  as 
tight  as  possible.  Although  this  method  of  grafting  is  not 
so  commonly  used  as  others,  it  still  possesses  some  decided 
advantages  for  grape  vines.  It  is  a  much  simpler  and  more 
satisfactory  method  than  cleft-grafting  in  very  curly  wood. 

The  tying  is  a  slow  process, 
and  for  straight-grained  wood 
the  cleft  graft  is  to  be  pre- 
117.  Maying  tool  (xfc).  ferred.  It  is  also  open  to  the 
objection  of  requiring  the 

shoots  to  be  staked  or  tied  to  some  support,  for  the  wind 
is  apt  to  break  the  point  of  union  more  easily  than  with 


nd 


GRAFTAGE. 


other  methods.     A  good  union  admits  of  a  very  strong 
growth,  and  if  the  above  precautions  are  kept  in  mind  the 
vines  will  equal  those  produced  by  the  more 
common  methods." 

Cleft-grafting. — In  cleft-grafting,  the  stock 
is  cut  off  squarely  and  split,  and  into  the 
split  a  cion  with  a  wedge-shape  base  is 
inserted.  It  is  particularly  adapted  to  large 
stocks,  and  is  the  method  almost  univer- 
sally employed  for  top-grafting  old 
trees,  its  only  competitor  being 
the  bark-graft  described  on 
page  129.  Fig.  118  illustrates 
the  operation.  The  end  of  the 
stock,  technically  called  a 
"stub,"  is  usually  large  enough 
to  accommodate  two  cions,  one 
upon  either  side.  In  fact,  it  is 
better  to  use  two  cions,  not 
only  because  they  double  the 
chances  of  success,  but  because 
they  hasten  the  healing  of  the 
stub.  Cleft-grafting  is  at  best  a 
harsh  process,  especially  upon 
large  limbs,  and  its  evils  should 
be  mitigated  as  much  as  pos- 
sible by  choosing  small  limbs  for  the  operation. 
In  common  practice,  the  cion  (Fig.  119)  contains 
three  buds,  the  lowest  one  standing  just  above  the 
wedge  portion.  This  lowest  bud  is  usually  en- 
tirely covered  with  wax,  but  it  pushes  through 
without  difficulty.  In  fact,  being  nearest  the 
source  of  food  and  most  protected,  its  chances  of  //$>.  cieft- 
living  are  greater  than  those  of  the  higher  buds.  *'*•£' "** 
The  sides  of  the  cion  must  be  cut  smooth  and 
even.  A  single  draw  cut  on  each  side  with  a  sharp  blade 
is  much  better  than  two  or  three  partial  cuts.  A  good 


118.    Cleft-grafting  ( x  i ) . 


CLEFT-GRAFTING. 


119 


grafter  makes  a  cion  by  three  strokes  of  the  knife,  one  to  cut 
off  the  cion  and  two  to  shape  it.     The  outer  edge  of  the 
wedge  should  be  a  lit- 
tle   thicker    than    the 
inner  one,  so  that  the 
stock  will  bind  upon 
it  and  hold  it  firm  at 
the    point    where    the          I20<  cleft-grafting  knife  (xi.5). 
union  first  takes  place. 

These  cions  are  taken  in  late  fall  or  winter,  or  very  early 
spring,  and  are  kept  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  on 
pages  107  and  108. 

The  stock  or  stub  must  be  cut  off  square  and  smooth 
with  a  sharp  and  preferably  fine-toothed  saw.  If  one  de- 
sires to  be  especially  careful  in  the  operation,  the  end  of 
the  stub,  or  at  least  two  opposite  sides  of  it,  may  be 
dressed  off  with  a  knife,  so  that  the  juncture  between  the 
bark  and  the  wood  may  be  more  easily  seen.  Professional 
grafters  rarely  resort  to  this  dressing,  however.  The  stub 
is  then  split  to  the  depth  of  an  inch  and  a  half  or  two 
inches.  Various  styles  of  grafting-knife  are  used  to 
split  the  stub.  The  best  one  is  that  shown  in  Fig.  120. 
It  is  commonly  made  from  an  old  file  by  a  blacksmith. 
The  blade  is  curved,  so  that  the  bark  of  the  stub  is  drawn 
in  when  the  knife  is  entering,  thereby  lessening  the  danger 
of  loosening  the  bark.  Another  style  of  knife  is  illustrated 
in  Fig.  121.  In  this  tool,  the  cutting  edge  is  straight, 
and,  being  thinner  than  the  other  tool,  it  tends  rather 
to  cut  the  stub  than  to  split  it.  Upon  the  end  of  these 

knives  is  a  wedge,  about 
4  or  5  inches  long,  for 
opening  the  cleft.  The 
wedge  is  driven  into  the 

121.  Cleft-grafting  knife  (x#).         cleft  and  allowed  to  re- 
main while  the  cions  are 

being  placed.  If  the  cleft  does  not  open  wide  enough  to 
allow  the  cions  to  enter,  the  operator  bears  down  on  the 


120 


GRAFTAGE. 


122.  Hoif  s  grafter 


handle  of  the  knife.  It  is  important  that  the  wedge  stand 
well  away  from  the  curved  blade  in  the  knife  shown  in 
Fig.  1 20,  else  it  cannot  be 
driven  into  the  stub.  In  the 
picture,  it  is  too  close  to  the 
blade.  In  Fig.  121  — made 
from  the  style  of 
knife  most  com- 
monly seen  in  the 
market  —the  wedge  is  too  short  for 
most  efficient  service. 

There  are  various  devices  for 
facilitating  the  operation  of  cleft- 
grafting,  but  none  of  them  have  become  generally  popu- 
lar. One  of  the  best  is  Hoit's  device  (Fig.  122),  which 
cuts  a  slot  into  the  side  of  the  stub.  The  machine  is  heM 
in  place  by  a  trigger  or  clamp  working  in 
notches  on  the  under  side  of  the  frame. 
The  upper  handle  is  then  thrown  over  to 
the  right,  forcing  the  knife  into  the  stub. 
This  is  a  Californian  device.  A  very 
good  grafting-knife  for  small  stocks  or 
trees  in  nursery  row  is  shown  in  Fig. 
123.  This  is  the  Thomas  knife.  The 
larger  arm  is  made  entirely  of  wood. 
At  its  upper  end  is  a  grooved  portion, 
into  which  the  blade  closes.  This  blade 
can  be  made  from  the  blade  of  a  steel 
case-knife,  and  it  should  be  about  2)^ 
inches  long.  It  is  secured  to  an  iron 
handle.  The  essential  feature  of  this 
implement  is  the  draw  cut,  which  is 
secured  by  setting  the  blades  and  the 
pivot  in  just  the  position  shown  in  the 
figure.  The  stock  is  cut  off  by  the 

shears,  and    the  cleft  is  then   made  by 
123.  Thomas'  grafting-  ,          ,  • 

knife  turning    the     shears     up   and  making  a 


CLEFT-GRAFTING. 


121 


vertical  cut.      The  cleft  is,   therefore,  cut  instead  of  split, 
insuring  a  tight  fit  of  the  cions.     This  tool  is  particularly 
useful  upon  hard  and  crooked-grained  stocks. 
The  cions  must  be  thrust  down,  in  the  cleft, 
to  the  first  bud,  or  even  deeper,  and  it  is  im- 
perative that  they  fit  tight.     The  line  of  sepa- 
ration between  the  bark  and  wood  in  the  cion 
should  meet  as  nearly  as  possible  the  similar 
line  in  the  stock.     The  cions  are  usually  set  a 
trifle  obliquely,  the  tops  projecting  outwards,  to 
insure  the  contact  or  crossing  of  the  cambium 
layers.      Writers  usually  state  that  it  is  imper- 
ative   to  success  to   have  the  exact   lines  be- 
tween the  bark  and  wood  meet  for  at  least  the 
greater  part  of  their  length,  but  this  is  an  er- 
ror.    The  callus  or  connecting  tissue  spreads 
beyond    its  former   limits   when    the    wounds 
begin  to  heal.     The  most  essential  points  are/^.  Rooted 
rather    to    be    sure    that    the  cion  fits    tightly  *$g£*^ 
throughout    its    whole    length,  and   to  protect          (*%)• 
the  wound    completely  with  an  air-tight    covering.      The 
practice  must  be  modified,  of  course,  to  suit  the  stock  and 
the  occasion.       Sometimes  rooted  cuttings  of  grapes  are 
cleft-grafted   (Fig.    124),  and    these,  being  in  the  ground, 

are  not  waxed,  and  it  is  difficult 
to  split  the  stub  deep  enough  to 
allow  the  cion  to  be  thrust  in 
far.  If  the  stub,  in  this  case, 
has  little  elasticity  after  being 
split,  it  should  be  tightly  wound 
to  keep  the  cion  in  place.  An 
old  grape  stock,  cleft-grafted, 
and  then  covered  with  earth, 
is  seen  in  Fig.  125.  These 
covered  grape  stubs  are  usu- 
ally not  waxed.  This  is  the  common,  and  generally  the 
best,  'method  of  grafting  the  grape. 


125.  Cleft- grafting  on  old 
grape  stock. 


122  GRAFT AGE. 

The  wounds  must  now  be  covered  with  wax.  Fig.  126 
illustrates  a  stub  after  the  covering  has  been  applied.  If  the 
grafting  is  done  in  early  spring,  when  the  weather  is  cold,  the 
wax  will  have  to  be  applied  with  a  brush.  The  wax  is 
melted  in  a  glue-pot,  which  is  carried  into  the  tree.  But  if 
the  weather  is  warm  enough  to  soften  the  wax,  it  should  be 
applied  with  the  hands.  The  hands  are  first 
greased  to  prevent  the  wax  from  sticking.  The 
two  side  or  vertical  portions  are  applied  first. 
The  end  of  the  mass  of  wax  in  the  hand  is  flat- 
tened into  a  thin  portion  about  a  half  inch  wide. 
This  portion  is  then  laid  over  the  lower  bud  of  the 
cion  and  held  there  by  the  thumb  of  the  other 
hand,  while  the  wax  is  drawn  downwards  over  the 
cleft,  being  pressed  down  firmly  upon  the  bark  by 
the  thumb  of  the  first  hand.  The  wax  gradually 
tails  out  until  it  breaks  off  just  below  the  lowest 
point  of  the  cleft.  The  flattened  upper  part  is 
then  wrapped  around  the  cion  upon  either  side, 
completely  and  tightly  encircling  it.  A  simple 
deft  wrapping  of  the  wax  about  the  cion  makes  a 
tighter  joint  than  can  be  secured  in  twice  the  time 
by  any  method  of  pinching  it  into  place.  Another 
portion  of  wax  is  now  flattened  and  applied  over 
the  end  of  the  stub.  Most  grafters  apply  a  bit  of 
wax  to  the  tops  of  the  cion  also.  All  the  wounds 
must  be  covered  securely. 

The  top-grafting  of  large  trees  is  an  important 
u^(^A)ed  operation,  and  there  are  many  men  who  make  it 
a  business.  These  men  usually  charge  by  the  stub 
and  warrant,  the  warrant  meaning  that  one  cion  of  the  stub 
must  be  alive  when  the  counting  is  done  late  in  summer. 
From  two  to  three  cents  a  stub  is  a  common  price.  A  good 
grafter  in  good  "setting  "  can  graft  from  400  to  800  stubs  a 
day  and  wax  them  himself.  Much  depends  upon  the  size 
of  the  trees,  their  shape,  and  the  amount  of  pruning  which 
must  be  done  before  the  grafter  can  work  in  them  handily. 


TOP-GRAFTING    OLD    TREES. 


123 


Every  man  who  owns  an  orchard  of  any  extent  should  be 
able  to  do  his  own  grafting.  The  most  important  factor  in 
the  top-grafting  of  an  old  tree  is  the  shaping  of  the  top. 
The  old  top  is  to  be  removed  during  three  or  four  or  five 
years,  and  a  new  one  is  to  be  grown  in  its  place.  If  the 
tree  is  old,  the  original  plan  or  shape  of  the  top  will  have 


** 


127.   Top-grafted  old  tree. 

to  be  followed  in  its  general  outlines.  The  branches 
should  be  grafted,  as  a  rule,  where  they  do  not  exceed  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  as  cions  do  better  in  such 
branches,  the  wounds  heal  quickly,  and  the  injury  to  the 
tree  is  less  than  when  very  large  stubs  are  used.  The  op- 
erator should  endeavor  to  cut  all  the  leading  stubs  at 


124 


GRAFTAGE. 


approximately  equai  distances  from  the  center  of  the  tree  ; 

and  then,  to  prevent  the  occurrence  of  long  and  pole-like 

branches,  various  minor 
side  -  branches  should  be 
grafted.  These  will  serve 
to  fill  out  the  new  top  and 
to  afford  footholds  for  prun- 
ers  and  pickers.  Fig.  127  is 
a  good  illustration  of  an  old 
tree  just  top-grafted.  Many 
stubs  should  be  set,  and  at 
least  all  the  prominent 
branches  should  be  grafted  if  the 
tree  has  been  well-trained.  It  is 
better  to  have  too 

Ni  Isv    /  }    "iQny  stubs  and  to  be 

\  /  ^Jry     /  (I     obh'ged    to    cut     out 

•\  N  \       /  V      some  of  them  in  after 

\j\\        Vx**S^  ,    /      /        years,    than    to    have 

too  few.  Small  trees, 
with  a  central  axis 
(such  as  have  been 
set  only  two  or  three 
years)  may  be  cut  off 
bodily,  as  at  R  in  Fig. 
128 ;  such  trees  can 
usually  be  changed 
over  in  one  or  two 
years.  In  thick- 
topped  trees,  care 
must  be  exercised  not 
to  cut  out  so  much  foliage  the  first  year  that  the  inner 
branches  will  sunburn.  All  large  branches  which  must  be 
sacrificed  ought  to  be  cut  out  when  the  grafting  is  done, 
as  they  increase  in  diameter  very  rapidly  after  so  much  of 
the  top  is  removed. 
A  horizontal  branch  lying  directly  over  or  under  another 


128.  Stub  for  top-grafting  a  young  tree. 


TOP-GRAFTING    OLD    TREES. 


125 


should  not  be  grafted,  for  it  is  the  habit  of  grafts  to  grow 
upright  rather  than  horizontal  in  the  direction  of  the 
branch ;  and  it  is  well  to  split  all  stubs  on  such  branches 
horizontally,  that  one  cion  may  not  stand  directly  under 
another.  The  habit  of  growth  of  the  cion  is  well  shown 
in  Fig.  129.  This  illustrates  the  form  and  direction  of  the 
original  branch,  and  also  the  direction  which  the  yearling 
grafts  have  taken.  It  is  evident,  therefore,  that  a  top-grafted 
tree  is  narrower  and  denser  in  top  than  the  tree  originally 

was,  and  that  careful  pruning 
is  required  to  keep  it  suffi- 
ciently open.  Each  graft  is 
virtually  a  new  tree-top  placed 
into  the  tree,  and  for  this  rea- 


^ 

129.  Showing  the  upright  direction  of  a  graft  in  a  horizontal  limb. 


son,  if  for  no  other,  the  common  practice  of  grafting  old 
trees  close  down  in  the  large  limbs  is  seen  to  be  pernicious 
Top-grafting  is  performed  in  spring.  The  best  time  is 
when  the  leaves  are  pushing  out,  as  wounds  made  then  heal 
quickly,  and  cions  are  most  apt  to  live.  But  when  a  large 
amount  of  grafting  must  be  done,  it  is  necessary  to  begin  a 
month,  or  even  two,  before  the  leaves  start.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  operation  can  be  extended  until  a  month  or  more 
after  the  leaves  are  full-grown,  but  such  late  cions  make  a 
short  growth,  which  is  likely  to  perish  the  following  winter. 
Professional  grafters  usually  divide  their  men  into  three 


126 


GRAFTAGE. 


gangs, — one  to  do  the  cutting  of  the  stubs,  one  to  set  the 
cions,  and  one  to  apply  the  wax.  The  cions  are  all  whit- 
tled before  the  grafter  enters  the  tree.  They  are  then  usu- 
ally moistened  by  dipping  into  a  pail  of  water,  and  are 
carried  in  a  high  side-pocket  in  the  jacket.  The  handiest 
mallet  is  a  simple  club  or  billy,  a  foot  and  half  long,  hung 
over  the  wrist  by  a  loose  soft  cord  (Fig.  130).  This  is 
brought  into  the  palm  of  the  hand  by  a  swinging  motion  of 
the  forearm.  This  mallet  is  always  in  place,  never  drops 
from  the  tree,  and  is  not  in  the  way. 
The  knife  shown  in  Fig.  120  is  com- 
monly used.  A  downward  stroke  of 
the  mallet  drives  the  knife  into  the 
tree,  and  the  return  upward  motion 
strikes  the  knife  on  the  outer  end 
and  removes  it.  Another  downward  motion 
drives  in  the  wedge.  The  sharpened  nails 
and  sticks  commonly  pictured  as  wedges  in 
cleft-grafting  are  useless  for  any  serious 
work.  The  common  style  of  grafting-knife 
sold  by  seedsmen,  comprising  a  thin,  broad 
blade  set  in  a  heavy  back-piece,  is  also  of 
little  use.  The  blade  is  too  thin  to  split  the 
stub.  The  various  combined  implements 
which  have  been  devised  to  facilitate  cleft- 
grafting  are  usually  impracticable  in  commercial  grafting. 

It  is  very  important  that  the  cleft-graft  should  be  kept 
constantly  sealed  up  until  all  the  wounded  surfaces  are  com- 
pletely covered  with  the  healing  tissue.  Old  wood  never 
heals.  Its  power  of  growth  is  completed.  If  a  limb  of  an 
apple  tree  a  half  inch  or  more  in  diameter  is  cut  off,  the 
heart  or  core  of  the  wound  will  be  found  to  be  incapable  of 
healing  itself.  It  is  covered  over  by  the  callus  tissue  which 
rolls  in  from  the  cambium  underneath  the  bark.  The 
wound  becomes  hermetically  sealed  by  the  new  tissue.  In 
the  meantime,  the  wound  should  be  kept  antiseptic  by  some 
dressing,  like  wax  or  paint,  to  prevent  decay.  In  cieft- 


Grafting- 
tallct  (xi-io). 


t 

•  I 

HEALING     OF     GRAFT     WOUNDS.  127 

grafts,  the  surfaces  should  be  covered  with  wax  every  year 
until  they  are  closed  in  by  the  new  tissue.  In  most  in- 
stances, the  wax  will  loosen  during  the  first  season,  and 
sometimes  it  falls  off. 

The  character  of  the  healing  process  is  well  depicted  in 
Figs.  131,  132,  133.  In  Fig.  131  is  shown  a  yearling  graft  of 
apple.  The  strip  of  wax  along  the  side  of  the  cleft  is  seen 
to  have  split  with  the  enlargement  of  the  branch,  and  the 
cleft  has  filled  up  with  tissue  and  is  now  safe  from  infection 
of  disease  or 
rot.  The  roll 
of  healing  tis- 
sue upon  the 
end  of  the' 
stub  is  seen  ^L  ^  /J7-  Cleft, 

about  the  bor-        ^k        ^  graft  a  year 

cler      of      the          1^     ^  |  ||          after  5etttng 

wound.      This 
tissue  has  not 
yet       covered 
up     the     cleft 
across    the    end    of    the 
stub,  and  this  cleft,  if  ex- 
posed to  the  weather,  is  a 
fertile  place  for  the  start- 
ing of  decay,   for    it    does    not    unite 
except   along    the    sides    of    the    stub 
beneath  the  bark.     When  this  stub  is 
split  through,  following  the  cleft,  we  may  readily  distinguish 
the  location  of  the  healing  tissues,  Fig.  132.     The  ends  of 
the  cions  are  at  E,  and  they  are  now  simply  inactive  and 
nearly  lifeless  bits  of  wood.     The  new  or  healing  tissue  has 
been  built  up  on  the  outward  side  of  the  cions.     On  the  left, 
this  deposition  of  new  tissue  may  be  traced  as  far  down  as 
H,  whilst  it  is  thick  and  heavy  at  E  and  above.     The  whole 
interior  portion  of  the  stub,  represented  by  the  dark  shad- 
ing, is  dead  tissue,  which  will  soon  begin  a  rapid  process  of 


V 

V 
( 

128 


GRAFTAGE. 


In  time, 


decay  unless  it  is  well  protected  from  the  weather. 

the  old  stub  becomes  her- 
metically sealed  by  the  re- 

parative  tissue.     Fig.  133 

shows    a    section    of    an 

apple    graft     nearly    fifty 

years  old.      The  original 

stub,    about    an    inch    in 

diameter,  is  seen   in  the   center, 

the  end  of  it  entirely  free  from 

the  enclosing  tissue.     It  is  a  dead 

piece  of  wood,  a  foreign  body  pre- 
served in  the  heart  of  the  tree.  The 

depth  of  the  old  cleft  or  split  is  traced 

in  the  heavily  shaded  portion.     When 

this  section  was  made,  the  cores  of  the 

old  cions  were  still  found  in  the  cleft 

and  the   grafting-wax— faithfully  laid 

on  a  half  century  ago— still  adhered  to 

the  end  of  the  stub,  underneath  the 
mass  of  tis- 
sue which 
had  piled  it- 
self over  the 

old  wound. 

132.    The  stub  131  split 

Cleft-grafting    through  the  cleft,  and  seen 
from  the  opposite  side. 

is  put  to  vari- 


ous other  uses  than  the  top- grafting 
of  old  trees.      It  is  in  common  use 
on  soft  and  fleshy  stocks,    as    cactuses, 
and  various  fleshy  roots.     Fig.  134  shows 
a  cleft-graft  on  cactus.     The  cion 
is  held  in    place  with   a  pin   or 
cactus  spine,  and  it  is  then  bound 
with  raffia  or  other  cord.     Wax- 
ing is  not  necessary.      A  similar 
graft  is  often  made  on  peony  roots.     The  cleft  in  the  thick 


'33     Section  of  an  old  cleft- 
graft  on  an  apple  tree 


BARK-GRAFTING.  I2Q 

root  is  cut  with  a  knife,  and  the  stock  is  bound  up  se- 
curely, usually  with  wire,  as  cord,  unless  waxed,  rots  off  too 
quickly.  Wax  is  not  used,  as  the  graft  is  buried 
to  the  top  bud.  The  peony  is  grafted  in  summer. 
Dahlias  are  often  grafted  in  the  same  fashion, 
although  some  operators  prefer,  in  such  fleshy 
subjects,  to  cut  out  a  section  from  the  side  of  the 
stock  to  receive  the  cion,  rather  than  to  make  a 
cleft,  much  as  in  the  process  of  inlaying  illustrated 
in  Fig.  116.  Hollyhocks,  ipomeas,  gloxinias  and 
other  thick-rooted  plants  may  be  similarly  treated. 
i34~Cieft-  Bark-grafting. — A  style  of  grafting  suited  to 
graft  of  large  trees  is  shown  in  Fig.  135.  The  stock  is  not 
(xl/3).  cleft,  but  the  cions  are  pushed  down  between  the 
bark  and  wood.  The  cions  must  be  cut  very  thin, 
so  that  they  will  not  break  the  bark  on  the  stock.  Fig.  136 
represents  a  good  style  of  cion.  It  is  cut  to  a 
shoulder  upon  either  side.  Several  cions  can 
be  placed  in  a  single  stub,  and  as  no  splitting  is 
necessary,  it  is  a  useful  method  for  very  large 
limbs.  It  is  especially  useful  in  repairing  trees 
when  very  large  branches  are  broken  off.  The 
broken  stub  is  sawn  off  smooth,  and  a  dozen  or 
more  cions  may  be  set  around  it.  Only  a  few 
of  them  should  be  allowed  to  remain  after  the 
wound  has  been  healed.  Bark-grafting  can  be 
performed  to  advantage  only  when  the  bark 
peels  readily.  The  cions  should  be  held  in 
place  by  a  tight  bandage,  as  seen  in  Fig.  135, 
and  then  wax  should  be  applied  in  essentially 
the  same  manner  as  for  cleft-grafting.  This 
is  sometimes  called  crown-grafting. 

A  special  form  of  bark-grafting  is  sometimes 
employed  for  covering  girdles  about  the  base 
of  an  old  tree,  made  by  mice,  gophers  or  rab- 
bits.     The  edges  of  the  bark  are  trimmed, 
cions  are  cut  a  couple  of  inches  longer  than  the  width  of  the 


130  GRAFT  AGE. 

girdle,  and  they  are  sharpened  at  both  ends.  One  end  is 
inserted  under  the  bark  below  the  girdle  and  the  other 
above  it.  The  cions  are  placed  close  together  entirely 
around  the  tree.  The  two  ends  are  held  firmly  in  place  by 
tying,  and  the  line  of  union  is  then  waxed  over.  This  opera- 
tion is  said  to  be  necessary  to  keep  up  the  connection  be- 
tween the  root  and  the  top,  but  this  is  in  most  cases 
an  error,  unless  the  girdle  extends  into  the  wood. 
A  good  dressing  of  wax  or  clay,  held  on  with  stout 
bandages,  is  usually  much  better  than  the  grafting. 
This  method  of  grafting  is  sometimes,  but  errone- 
ously, called  inarching.  A  complete  bark  girdle 
made  during  the  spring  or  early  summer  will  usually 
heal  over  readily  if  it  is  well  bandaged  ;  and  in 
some  cases  even  the  bandage  is  not  necessary. 

Herbaceous-grafting.  —  In  the  preceding  pages, 
the  discussions  have  had  to  do  with  cions  which  are 
dormant  or  at  least  well  hardened,  and  with  stocks 
which  contain  more  or  less  hard  woody  substance. 
But  herbaceous  shoots  can  be  grafted  with  ease. 
All  such  plants  as  geraniums,  begonias,  coleuses 
and  chrysanthemums  can  be  made  to  bear  two 
or  more  varieties  upon  the  same  individual.  Al- 
.'36.  most  any  style  of  grafting  can  be  employed,  but 
bark-  the  veneer,  cleft  and  saddle-grafts  are  preferred. 


oots  should  be  chosen  for  stocks  which  are  rather 
firm,  or  in  the  condition  for  making  good  cuttings. 
The  cions  should  be  in  a  similar  condition,  and  they  may 
be  taken  from  the  tips  of  branches  or  made  of  a  section  of 
a  branch.  The  union  should  be  bound  snugly  with  raffia, 
and  the  plant  set  in  a  propagating-frame  (Fig.  47  illustrates 
a  good  one),  where  it  must  be  kept  close  for  a  few  days.  It 
is  not  necessary,  in  most  cases,  to  use  wax,  and  upon  some 
tender  stocks  the  wax  is  injurious.  Moss  may  be  bound 
about  the  graft,  but  unless  the  union  is  first  thoroughly  cov- 
ered by  the  bandage,  roots  may  start  into  the  moss  and  the 
parts  may  fail  to  unite.  The  growing  shoots  of  shrubs  and 


SEED-    AND    CUTTING-GRAFTING.  131 

trees  can  also  be  grafted,  but  the  operation  is  rarely 
employed.  In  various  coniferous  trees  (as  pines  and 
spruces)  the  young  shoots  are  sometimes  cleft  or  saddle- 
grafted  in  May,  the  parts  being  well  bandaged  with  waxed 
muslin  or  raffia,  and  shaded  with  paper  bags.  The  walnut 
and  some  other  trees  which  do  not  work  readily  are  some- 
times treated  in  this  manner. 

A  little  known  species  of  herbaceous-grafting  is  the  join- 
ing of  parts  of  fruits.  It  is  easily  performed  upon  all  fleshy 
fruits  like  tomatoes,  apples,  squashes  and  cucumbers. 
When  the  fruit  is  half  or  more  grown,  one-half  is  cut  away 
and  a  similar  half  from  another  fruit  is  applied.  Better 
results  follow  if  the  severed  side  of  the  parent  or  stock  fruit 
is  hollowed  out  a  little,  so  as  to  let  the  foreign  piece  set  into 
the  cavity.  The  edges  of  the  epidermis  of  the  stock  are 
then  tied  up  closely  against  the  cion  by  means  of  bass  or 
raffia.  The  two  parts  are  securely  tied  together,  but  no  wax 
is  required.  This  operation  succeeds  best  under  glass, 
where  conditions  are  uniform,  and  where  winds  do  not 
move  the  fruits. 

Even  leaves  may  be  used  as  stocks  or  cions.  Any  such 
succulent  and  permanent  leaves  as  those  of  the  house- 
leeks,  crassula,  and  the  like,  may  have  young  shoots 
worked  upon  them,  and  leaves  which  are  used  as  cuttings 
can  often  be  made  to  grow  on  other  plants. 

Seed-grafting. — A  novel  kind  of  grafting  has  been  de- 
scribed in  France  by  Pieron,  which  consists  in  using  a  seed 
as  a  cion.  This  has  been  used  upon  the  grape.  A  seed 
is  dropped  into  a  gimlet-hole  made  near  the  base  of  the 
vine  while  the  sap  is  rising  in  the  spring.  The  seed  ger- 
minates, and  after  a  time  the  plantlet  unites  with  the  stock. 

Cutting-grafting.— Cuttage  and  graftage  may  be  com- 
bined in  various  ways.  Cuttings  of  plants  which  root  with 
difficulty  are  sometimes  grafted  upon  those  which  root 
easily.  A  good  example  is  seen  in  Fig.  105.  When  the 
plants  are  transplanted,  the  following:  autumn  or  spring,  the 


132 


GRAFT AGE. 


nurse  or  stock  can  be  removed,  the  cion  having  taken  root. 
Root-grafting,  described  on  a  previous  page  (see  Figs.  103, 
104,  114),  is  virtually  a  grafting  of  cuttings.  In  other  cases, 
union  with  an  uncongenial  stock  is  facilitated  by  allowing 
the  cion  to  project  downwards  beyond  the  point  of  union, 
and  to  stand  in  the  soil  or  moss  or  dish  of  water.  (See, 
also,  page  112.)  Fig.  137  is  a  good  illustration  of  the 
practice.  The  cion  extends  into  the  soil  nearly  as  far  as  the 
root  itself.  After  union  has  taken  place,  the 
lower  part  of  the  cion  is  removed.  This 
method  can  be  used  for  some  magnolias, 
mulberries,  birches,  and  many  other  plants 
of  which  some  kinds  root  with  more  or  less 
difficulty.  "Bottle-grafting,'"  described  in 
most  of  the  books,  is  essentially  this  method, 
modified  by  letting  the  end  of  the  cion,  or  a 
portion  of  the  bandage,  drop  into  a 
bottle  of  water. 

Inarching.  -Inarching,  or  grafting 
by  approach,  is  the  process  of  graft- 
ing contiguous  plants  or  branches 
while  the  parts  are  both  attached  to 
their  own  roots.  When  the 
parts  are  united,  one  of  them  is 
severed  from  its  root.  Fig.  138 
explains  the  operation.  In  this 
case,  the  larger  plant  (upon 
the  left)  is  designed  for  the  stock, 
plant  has  united,  it  is  cut  off  just  below  the  union  and  it 
thenceforth  grows  upon  the  other  plant.  Limbs  of  contigu- 
ous trees  are  sometimes  grafted  in  this  way.  It  is  the  pro- 
cess employed  by  nature  in  what  is  called  natural  grafting 
(Fig.  82).  Grape-vines  are  often  inarched.  A  thrifty  young 
branch  of  a  fruit  tree  may  be  inarched  into  the  stem  of  a  fruit 
upon  the  same  tree,  thus  supplying  the  fruit  with  additional 
food  and  causing  it  to  grow  larger  than  it  might  if  untreated. 

To  join  the  parts,  it  is  only  necessary  to  remove  the 


137- 


Cutting -grafting 
When  the  smaller 


DOUBLE- WORKING. 


133 


barks  between  the  stock  and  cion  and  then  tie  the  two 

together  snugly.     The  details  are  shown  in 

Fig.  J39-     In  M,  a  branch  c,  is  joined  at  o 

to  the  stock  H.     Other  branches,  like  T, 

might    be    similarly    treated.     In    N,    the 

method  of  cutting  the  conjoined  sur- 
faces is  explained  at  R.     If  outdoors, 

the  junction  should  be  waxed  over ; 

and   it   is  then   necessary,   also,   to 

secure  the  branches  in  such  manner 

that  the  wind  cannot  loosen  them. 

The  parts  are  sometimes  joined  by  a 

tongue,    after  the  manner  of  a  whip-graft, 

but  this  is  rarely  necessary.     Oranges  and 

camellias  were  often  propagated  by  inarch- 
ing in  the  old  practice,  but  this  work  is 

now  much  more  easily  done  by  the  ve- 
neer-graft. 

Double-working. — Grafting     upon 

a  grafted  tree  is  known  as  double- 
grafting  or  double-work- 
ing. It  is  employed  for  the  purpose  of  growing 
a  variety  upon  an  uncon- 
genial root,  or  of  secur- 
ing a  straight  and  vigorous 
stock  for  a  weak  and  poor 
grower.  The  operation 
may  be  either  grafting  or 
budding.  It  is  more  com- 
monly the  latter.  Some 
sorts  of  pears  do  not  unite 
well  with  the  quince,  and  if 
it  is  desired  to  secure 
dwarfs  of  these  varieties, 
some  variety  which  unites 
readily  with  the  quince 
must  first  be  put  upon  it. 


138.  Inarching. 


134 


GRAFTAGE. 


The  Angouleme  takes  well  to  the  quince,  and  upon  Angou- 
leme  dwarfs  the  Seckel  and  some  other  varieties  are  often 
worked.  In  double-working  dwarf  pears,  it  is  imperative 
that  both  unions  be  very  close  to  the  ground.  The  piece 
of  interposed  wood  is  not  more  than  one  or  two  inches 
in  length. 

The  second  cion  is  usually  set  after  the  first  one  has 
grown  one  season,  although  both  may  be  set 
at  the  same  time.     Double-grafting  for  the 
purpose  of  securing  a  better  growth  is  often 
practiced.      The  Canada   Red  apple,  for  in- 
stance,   is    such   a   poor   grower 
\l  |       V         I  that  it  is  often  stem-worked  or 

.  I  //  /  .  .LoK^t.  top-worked  upon  the  No  rthern 
Spy  or  some  other  strong  stock. 
[N  The  Winter  Nelis  and  the  Joseph- 
ine de  Malines  pears'  are  often 
double-worked  for  the  same  rea- 
son. Fig.  140  shows  the  top  of  a 
double-worked  tree.  In  this  in- 
stance,  the  body  of  the  tree  is 
two  years  old  and  is  itself  a  graft 
or  bud  upon  a  seedling  root. 
The  second  variety  is  grafted  at 
140.  A  double-worked  tree.  the  pomt  where  it  is  desired  to 

start  the  permanent  top  of  the  tree,  by  whip-grafting  in  this 
instance.  The  figure  on  the  left  shows  the  two-year-old  top 
growing  from  this  cion.  The  length  of  the  cion  is  com- 
prised inside  the  dotted  lines,  and  this  region  is  enlarged 
in  the  figure  on  the  right.  The  base  of  the  cion  was  at  T— 
below  which  is  stock — and  the  top  at  N.  The  upper  scar 
at  N  is  the  top  of  the  cion  itself,  but  the  other  scars  show 
where  superfluous  twigs  were  removed  after  the  cion  had 
grown  a  year.  This  type  of  double-working  of  fruit-trees 
is  to  be  recommended  for  weak  or  wayward  growers. 

Grafting  Waxes. — There  are  great  numbers  of  recipes 
for  waxes  or  mastics  for  protecting    grafts  and  covering 


GRAFTING     WAXES.  135 

wounds  upon  trees.  In  this  country,  the  resin  and  beeswax 
waxes  are  most  used,  although  some  of  the  alcoholic  waxes 
are  popular  in  some  regions.  In  Europe,  many  clay  and 
pitch  waxes  are  in  common  use.  For  most  purposes,  the 
wax  No.  i,  in  the  following  list,  will  be  found  to  be  one  of 
the  best,  especially  for  applying  by  the  hand.  The  soft  al- 
coholic waxes  are  apt  to  melt  off  exposed  stubs  in  our  hot 
summer  suns ;  but  they  are  useful  for  indoor  work  and  for 
cool  weather.  In  making  the  resin  and  beeswax  waxes, 
the  materials  are  first  broken  up  finely  and  melted  together. 
When  thoroughly  melted,  the  liquid  is  poured  into  a  pail 
or  tub  of  cold  water.  It  soon  becomes  hard  enough  to 
handle,  and  it  is  then  pulled  and  worked  over  until  it  be- 
comes tough  or  "gets  a  grain,"  at  which  stage  it  becomes 
the  color  of  very  light-colored  manilla  paper.  When  wax 
is  applied  by  hand,  the  hands  must  be  well  greased.  Hard 
cake  tallow  is  the  best  material  for  this  purpose.  '  In  top- 
grafting  large  trees,  it  is  well  to  carry  a  supply  of  tallow 
when  waxing,  by  smearing  the  backs  of  the  hands  before 
entering  the  tree. 

Common  Resin  and  Beeswax  Waxes. 

1.  Resin,  4  parts  by  weight;  beeswax,  2  parts;  tallow, 
i  part. 

2.  Resin,  4  Ibs. ;  beeswax,  i  Ib. ;  tallow,  i  Ib. 

3.  Resin,  6  Ibs.;  beeswax,  2  Ibs.;   linseed  oil,  i  pt. 

4.  Resin,  6  Ibs.;  beeswax,  i  Ib.;  linseed  oil,  i  pt.     Ap- 
ply hot  with  a  brush,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick  over  all 
the  joints. 

5.  Resin,  4  Ibs. ;  beeswax,  i  Ib. ;  and  from  half  to  a  pinl 
of  raw  linseed  oil ;  melt  all  together  gradually,  and  turn 
into  water  and  pull.      The  linseed  oil  should    be  entirely 
free  from  cotton-seed  oil.      A  hard  wax,  for  use  in  warm 
weather. 

6.  Resin,  6  parts ;  beeswax,  i  part ;  tallow,  i  part.     To 
be  used  warm,  in  the  house. 


136  GRAFTAGE. 

7.  Resin,  4  or  5  parts  ;  beeswax,  \y2  to  2  parts  ;    linseed 
oil,  i  to  i>£  parts.     For  outdoor  work. 

Alcoholic   Waxes. 

8.  Lefort's  Liquid  Grafting  Wax,  or  Alcoholic  Plastic. — 
Best  white  resin,  i  lb.;  beef  tallow,  i  oz. ;  remove  from  the 
fire  and  add  8  ounces  of  alcohol.     Keep  in  closed  bottles 
or  cans. 

9.  Alcoholic  Plastic  with  Beeswax. — Melt  6  parts  white 
resin  with   i   part  beeswax ;    remove  from  stove  and  par- 
tially cool  by  stirring,  then  add  gradually — with  continued 
stirring — enough  alcohol  to  make  the  mixture,  when  cool, 
of  the  consistency  of  porridge.      In  the  temperature  of  the 
grafting-room  it  will   remain  sufficiently  plastic  to  permit 
applying  to  the  cut  surfaces  with  the  finger. 

10.  Alcoholic  Plastic  with  Turpentine.— Best  white  resin, 
i  lb. ;    beef  tallow,  i  oz. ;    turpentine,  i  teaspoonful ;    add 
enough  alcohol  (13  to  15  fluid  ounces  of  95  per  cent,  alco- 
hol) to  mak<?  the  wax  of  the  consistency  of  honey.     Or, 
less  alcohol  may  be  added  if  the  wax  is  to  be  used  with 
the  fingers. 

French  and  Pitch    Waxes. 

11.  Common    French.  —  Pitch,    J^lb.;    beeswax,    %\\>.\ 
cowdung,    i   lb.       Boil  together,  melt,  and  apply  with  a 
brush. 

12.  Common    French    Bandage    Wax. — Equal  parts  of 
beeswax,  turpentine  and  resin.      While  warm  spread  on 
strips  of  coarse  cotton  or  strong  paper. 

13.  Grafting  Clay. — %  cowdung,  free  from  straw,  and 
%  clay,  or  clayey  loam,  with  a  little  hair,  like  that  used  in 
plaster,  to  prevent    its  cracking.      Beat  and  temper  it  for 
two  or   three    days  until    it    is    thoroughly  incorporated. 
When  used  it  should  be  of  such  a  consistency  as  to  be 
easily  put  on  and  shaped  with  the  hands. 

14.  Resin,  2  Ibs.  12  ozs. ;   Burgundy  pitch,  i  lb.   u  ozs. 


GRAFTING    WAXES.  137 

At  the  sam«  time,  melt  9  ounces  of  tallow  ;  pour  the  latter 
into  the  former  while  both  are  hot,  and  stir  the  mixture 
thoroughly.  Then  add  18  ounces  of  red  ochre,  dropping  it 
in  gradually  and  stirring  the  mixture  at  the  same  time. 

15.  Black  pitch,   28  parts  ;    Burgundy  pitch,  28   parts  ; 
beeswax,  16  parts  ;  grease,  14  parts  ;  yellow  ochre,  14  parts. 

16.  Black  pitch,  28  Ibs.;    Burgundy  pitch,  28  Ibs.;   yel- 
low wax,   16  Ibs.;    suet  or  tallow,  14  Ibs.;   sifted  ashes,  14 
Ibs.     When  used,  warm  sufficiently  to  make  it  liquid,  with- 
out being  so  hot  as  to  injure  the  texture  of  the  branches. 

17.  Melt  together  \}£  Ibs.  of  clear  resin  and  ^lb.  of  white 
pitch.     At  the  same  time  melt  %\b.  of  tallow.     Pour  the 
melted  tallow  into  the  first  mixture,  and  stir  vigorously. 
Then  before  the  stuff  cools,  add,  slowly  stirring  meantime, 

.  of  Venetian  red.      This  may  be  used  warm  or  cold. 


Waxed  String  and  Bandage. 

18.  Waxed  String  for  Root-grafting.  —  Into  a  kettle  of 
melted  wax  place  balls  of  No.  18  knitting  cotton.     Turn  the 
balls  frequently,  and  in  five  minutes  they  will  be  thoroughly 
saturated,  when  they  are  dried  and  put  away  for  future  use. 
This  material  is  strong  enough,  and  at  the  same  time  breaks 
so  easily  as  not  to  injure  the  hands.     Any  of  the  resin  and 
beeswax  waxes  may  be  used.     When  the  string  is  used,  it 
should  be  warm  enough  to  stick  without  tying. 

19.  Waxed  Cloth.—  Old  calico  or  thin  muslin  is  rolled  on 
a  stick  and  placed  in  melted  wax.     When  saturated  it  is 
allowed  to  cool  by  being  unrolled  on  a  bench.     It  is  then 
cut  in  strips  to  suit.     Or  the  wax  may  be  spread  upon  the 
cloth  with  a  brush. 

Waxes  for    Wounds. 

20.  Any  of  the  more  adhesive  grafting  waxes  are  excel- 
lent for  dressing  wounds,  although  most  of  them  cleave  off 
after  the  first  year.     Stiff  and  ochreous  paints  are  also  good. 

21.  Coal-tar.  —  Apply  a  coating  of  coal-tar  to  the  wound, 


138  GRAFTAGE. 

which  has  first  been  pared  and  smoothed.     If  the  wound 
contains  a  hole,  plug  it  with  seasoned  wood. 

22.  Hoskins'  Wax. — Boil  pine  tar  slowly  for  three  or  four 
hours  ;  add  %\b.  of  beeswax  to  a  quart  of  the  tar.      Have 
ready  some  dry  and  finely  sifted  clay,  and  when  the  mixture 
of  tar  and  wax  is  partially  cold,  stir  into  the  above  named 
quantity  about  12  ounces  of  the  clay  ;  continue  the  stirring 
until  the  mixture  is  so  stiff  and  so  nearly  cool  that  the  clay 
will  not  settle.     This  is  soft  enough  in  mild  weather  to  be 
easily  applied  with  a  knife  or  spatula. 

23.  Schaefell's  Healing  Paint. — Boil  linseed  oil  (free  from 
cotton-seed  oil )  one  hour,  with  an  ounce  of  litharge  to  each 
pint  of  oil ;  then  stir  in  sifted  wood  ashes  until  the  paint  is 
of  the  proper  consistency.      Pare  the  bark  until  smooth. 
Paint  the  wound  over  in  dry  weather,  and  if  the  wound  is 
very  large,  cover  with  a  gunny-sack. 

24.  Tar  for  Bleeding  in  Vines. — Add  to  tar  about  three 
or  four  times  its  weight  of  powdered  slate  or  some  similar 
substance.     Apply  with  an  old  knife  or  flat  stick. 

25.  Hot  Iron  for  Bleeding  in  Vines. — Apply  a  hot  iron 
to  the  bare  surface  until  it  is  charred,  and  then  rub  into  the 
charred   surface  a    paste  made  of    newly-burnt    lime  and 
grease. 

26.  Collodion  for  Bleeding  in  Vines. — It  may  be  applied 
with  a  feather  or  small  brush.     In  some  extreme  cases,  two 
or  three  coats  will  be  needed,  in  which  case  allow  the  col- 
lodion to  form  a  film  before  applying  another  coat.     Phar- 
maceutical collodion  is  better  than  photographic. 


4.    NURSERY    MANAGEMENT. 

The  greater  part  of  the  field  nurseries  of  the  United 
States  are  engaged  in  raising  grafted  or  budded  plants.  It 
is  germane  to  the  present  chapter,  therefore,  to  add  some 
general  notes  upon  the  management  of  nurseries  and  nur- 
sery lands.  A  large  part  of  the  management  of  these  es- 
tablishments, however,  is  pure  business,  and  is  governed 


FERTILITY  OF  NURSERY  LANDS.          139 

by  the  general  laws  of  trade,  and  lies  outside  the  field  of 
the  present  discussion. 

Nursery  Lands. — The  best  land  for  general  nursery  pur- 
poses is  one  which  is  heavy  rather  than  light,  containing  a 
good  percentage  of  clay,  and  lying  as  nearly  level  as  pos- 
sible. Before  trees  are  put  upon  it,  the  land  should  be 
deeply  and  thoroughly  worked  for  at  least  one  season,  and 
if  it  is  of  such  character  as  to  hold  surface  water  for  two  or 
three  days  at  a  time,  the  area  should  be  thoroughly  tile- 
drained.  Nursery  trees  constitute  a  crop  which  occupies 
the  land  for  a  number  of  years,  and  unless  this  land  is  in 
good  heart  when  the  trees  are  planted,  there  will  be  little 
opportunity  to  raise  a  good  product.  With  fruit  trees,  the 
age  of  the  tree  determines  its  salableness ;  hence  it  is  im- 
perative that  the  growth  within  the  given  time  be  rapid  and 
strong.  With  ornamentals,  however,  the  value  is  deter- 
mined by  the  size  of  the  specimen,  with  little  reference  to 
its  age.  It  therefore  follows  that  lands  which  are  not  suf- 
ficiently strong  to  allow  of  the  profitable  growing  of  fruit 
trees  may  still  be  useful  for  growing  ornamentals.  In  con- 
sidering the  question  of  the  fertility  of  nursery  lands,  it  is 
first  necessary  to  determine  what  are  the  proportions  of  the 
chief  elements  of  plant  food  which  the  trees  remove  from 
the  soil.  Roberts  ( Bulletin  103,  Cornell  Experiment  Sta- 
tion) gives  the  following  figures  upon  this  point  :* 

"Amounts  and  values  of  fertilizing  constituents  re- 
moved by  an  acre  of  nursery  trees  in  three  years  : 

Apples.  '  Pears.  Peaches.  Plums. 

Lbs.    Value.         Lbs.    Value.         Lbs.    Value.         Lbs.    Value. 

Nitrogen 29.07  $4  36       24.83  $3  73        22.42  $3  36        19.75  $2  96 

Phosphoric  acid  .  .  10.13  71  7.83  54  5.42  38  4.42  31 
Potash 19.73  89  13.33  60  11.75  53  "-50  S2 

$5  96  $4  87  |4. 27  $3  79 

"The  above  results  show  conclusively  that  but  a  small 
amount  of    plant  food    is    removed  from    the  soil  by  the 
growth  of  nursery  stock.     They  also  show  that  more  phos- 
phoric acid  is  removed  by  the  apples  and  pears  than  by 
*See,  also,  loth  Rep.  N.  Y.  State  Exp.  Sta.,  pp.  162-174 


140  GRAFT AGE. 

the  peaches  and  plums  ;  but  any  ordinary  soil,  cultivated  as 
nursery  lands  are,  should  easily  furnish  in  three  years  ten 
times  the  plant  food  used  by  the  trees.  In  order  to  com- 
pare the  drafts  made  by  nursery  stock  and  some  of  the 
common  crops  raised  in  mixed  husbandry,  the  following 
statement  will  be  useful :  The  amount  of  green  corn  neces- 
sary to  remove  an  equal  amount  of  fertilizing  ingredients 
per  acre,  taking  the  average  of  the  value  of  the  nitrogen, 
phosphoric  acid  and  ^potash  (14.72)  removed  by  an  acre  of 
the  trees  (3  years'  growth),  would  be  4,779  pounds. 

"Ensilage  corn  raised  in  drills  usually  yields  from  12  to 
20  tons  per  acre,  and  yet  does  not  make  drafts  on  the  land 
which  preclude  duplicating  the  yield  the  following  sea- 
son ;  hence  some  other  cause  than  soil  exhaustion  must  be 
found  if  the  failure  to  grow  a  second  crop  of  nursery  trees 
without  intermediate  crops  is  explained." 

All  experience  proves  that  a  crop  of  nursery  trees  does 
not  exhaust  the  land  of  its  fertility.  In  fact,  it  is  generally 
considered  that  land  from  which  trees  have  just  been  re- 
moved is  in  the  very  best  condition  for  a  crop  of  beans, 
wheat  or  potatoes.  Yet,  despite  this  fact,  it  is  also  gener- 
ally considered  that  land  can  seldom  raise  two  good 
crops  of  nursery  trees  in  succession.  Land  which  has  been 
"treed"  must  be  "rested"  in  grass 'or  some  other  crop. 
This  disposition  of  land  to  refuse  to  grow  two  consecutive 
crops  of  good  trees  is  not  an  invariable  rule,  however. 
The  writer  has  known  nursery  land  to  produce  good  plum 
trees  for  twenty  consecutive  years.  One  frequently  sees 
lands  producing  apple  and  cherry  stocks  for  two  or  three 
crops  in  succession.  Plums  seem  to  be  particularly  amena- 
ble to  this  consecutive  cropping,  and  they  are  benefited  by 
applications  of  stable  manure.  Some  other  species,  as,  for 
example,  the  pear,  do  not  take  so  kindly  to  treatment  with 
manure.  Because  of  this  common  experience  with  indiffer- 
ent trees  grown  upon  treed  land,  nurserymen  with  a  large 
business  prefer  to  rent  land  for  the  growing  of  trees.  In 
New  York  state,  the  common  period  of  rental  is  five  years, 


HUMUS     IN     NURSERY     LANDS.  14! 

at  a  rate  of  about  eight  dollars  per  acre  per  year,  for  the 
ordinary  type  of  farm  lands. 

The  reason  for  this  condition  of  treed  lands  is  that  the 
soil  is  injured  in  its  physical  texture  by  the  methods  of  cul- 
tivation and  treatment.  The  best  nursery  lands  are  those 
which  contain  a  basis  of  clay,  and  these  are  the  ones  which 
soonest  suffer  under  unwise  treatment.  The  land  is  kept 
under  high  culture,  and  it  is  therefore  deeply  pulverized. 
There  is  practically  no  herbage  on  the  soil  to  protect  it  dur- 
ing the  winter.  When  the  crop  is  removed,  even  the  roots 
are  taken  out  of  the  soil.  For  four  or  five  years,  the  land 
receives  practically  no  herbage  which  can  rot  and  pass  into 
humus.  And  then,  the  trees  are  dug  in  the  fall,  often  when 
the  soil  is  in  unfit  condition,  and  this  fall  digging  amounts  to 
a  fall  plowing.  The  soil,  deeply  broken  and  robbed  of  its 
humus,  runs  together  and  cements  itself  before  the  following 
summer  ;  and  it  then  requires  three  or  four  years  of  "rest" 
in  clover  or  other  herbage  crop  to  bring  it  back  into  its 
rightful  condition.  This  resting  period  allows  nature  to 
replace  the  fiber  in  the  soil,  and  to  make  it  once  more  so 
open  and  warm  and  kindly  that  plants  can  find  a  congenial 
root-hold  in  it.  It  would  seem,  therefore,  that  some  of  this 
mechanical  injury  to  nursery  lands  might  be  prevented  by 
the  growing  of  some  cover  crop  between  the  rows  late  in 
the  season,  to  be  plowed  under  the  following  spring.  It  is 
well  known  that  the  plowing-in  of  very  coarse  manure 
between  the  trees  in  fall  or  spring,  for  two  or  three  years, 
will  sometimes  so  greatly  improve  the  land  that  a  second 
good  crop  of  trees  can  be  grown  upon  the  land  with  ease. 
This  is  particularly  true  for  plum  trees,  as  already  noted,  but 
the  results  do  not  seem  to  be  so  well  marked  for  pears  and 
some  other  trees.  It  is  probable  that  one  reason  for  the 
very  general  refusal  of  pear  trees  to  follow  pear  trees  is 
the  fact  that  they  demand  heavy  clay,  and  this  is  just  the 
land  which  is  most  injured  by  nursery  practices.  Some 
lands  are  naturally  so  loose  and  open  in  structure  that  two 
or  three  crops  of  trees  can  be  grown  in  succession,  but 


142  GRAFTAGE. 

these  lands  contain  little  crude  clay,  and  therefore  do  not 
suffer  quickly  from  the  burning  out  of  the  humus. 

Although  the  chemical  analyses  of  nursery  trees  show 
comparatively  small  amounts  of  the  more  important  plant 
foods,  it  may  still  often  occur  that  nursery  lands  need  fertil- 
izing. Nitrogen  is  needed  in  comparatively  large  amounts. 
This  is  the  element  which  chiefly  conduces  to  strong  growth. 
It  is  also  the  one  which  is  most  rapidly  augmented  by  the 
addition  of  humus  and  the  improvement  of  the  physical  con- 
dition of  the  soil,  as  recommended  above.  When  nursery 
stock  is  making  a  poor  growth,  the  grower  should  first  see 
that  the  tillage  of  the  soil  is  made  as  thorough  and  perfect  as 
possible,  in  order  to  supply  additional  plant  food  and  to  pre- 
serve the  soil  moisture.  He  may  then  add  nitrogen  in  the 
form  of  nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of  ammonia,  sowing 
them  at  the  rate  of  ?oo  to  400  Ibs.  to  the  acre.  The  appli- 
cation should  be  made  in  spring  or  early  summer.  He 
should  then  be  sure  that  insect  or  fungous  attacks  are 
averted.  If  the  land  was  originally  in  fit  condition  for  trees, 
and  adapted  to  them,  these  suggestions  should  afford  relief. 

Grades  of  Trees.  —  Common  opinion  demands  that  a 
tree,  to  be  first-class,  must  be  perfectly  straight  and  comely. 
This  arbitrary  standard  is  but  the  expression  of  the  general 
demand  for  large  and  handsome  trees.  But  there  are  some 
varieties  of  fruit  trees  which  cannot  be  made  to  grow  in  a 
comely  fashion,  and  hence  there  is  always  a  tendency  to 
discontinue  growing  them,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that 
they  may  possess  great  intrinsic  merit.  All  this  is  to  be 
deplored.  The  requirements  of  a  first-class  tree  should  be 
that  the  specimen  is  vigorous,  free  from  disease  or  blem- 
ishes, and  that  it  possess  the  characteristics  of  the  variety. 
This  allows  a  crooked  tree  to  be  first-class  if  it  is  a  Green- 
ing or  Red  Canada  apple,  because  it  is  the  nature  of  these 
varieties  to  grow  crooked.  A  crooked  or  wayward  grower 
is  not  necessarily  a  weak  one.  It  is  advisable  to  top-work 
weak-growing  varieties  upon  strong-growing  and  straight- 
growing  ones  (see  page  1.34). 


WHAT     IS     A     FIRST-CLASS     TREE  ?  143 

A  first-class  tree  is  well  grown  ;  that  is,  the  various 
operations  to  which  it  has  been  subjected  by  the  nurseryman 
have  been  properly  performed.  It  must  be  mature  ;  that  is, 
not  stripped  of  its  leaves  before  the  foliage  has  thoroughly 
ripened.  It  must  be  of  the  proper  age  for  planting.  It 
must  have  a  clean,  smooth  bark.  It  must  have  a  stocky, 
strong  trunk,  good  roots,  and  be  free  of  borers  and  other 
insect  injuries.  The  union— at  the  bud  or  graft— must  be 
completely  healed  over.  Stocky  and 
rather  short  trees,  with  well-branched 
heads,  are  always  preferable  to  very  tall 
ones.  Very  slender  trees,  if  above  one 
or  two  years  old,  should  be  avoided. 
Nurserymen  express  the  size  of  a  tree  by 
its  diameter  about  three  inches  above  the 
bud.  The  measuring  is  usually  done  by 
a  caliper.  The  diameter  of  a  first-class 
tree  varies  with  the  method  of  growing 
and  trimming  it.  In  the  New  York  nur- 
series, a  first-class  two-year-old  apple  tree 
(budded)  should  caliper  five- 
eighths  to  three-fourths  of  an  inch. 
Plums  run  about  the  same.  Pears 
will  generally  run  a  sixteenth  of 
an  inch  less,  and  sour  cherries 
about  a  sixteenth  more.  Sweet  '"•  Self'rce&peerr™g 
cherries  will  run  three-fourths  inch 

and  above.  Nurserymen  use  various  instruments  <for  gaug- 
ing the  diameter  of  stock.  The  old-fashioned  caliper  is 
most  commonly  employed.  An  excellent  modification  of 
this  device  is  the  self-registering  caliper,  seen  in  Fig.  141. 
Heikes'  tree-gauge,  made  of  sheet  steel,  is  shown  in 
Fig.  142. 

The  Storing  of  Trees. — Of  late  years,  the  nursery  busi- 
ness has  been  greatly  benefited  by  the  free  use  of  cellars  for 
the  storing  of  stock.  In  these  cellars  the  stock  is  safe  from 
winter  injury,  and  it  can  be  moved  to  customers  before  the 


144  GRAFTAGE. 

nursery  land  is  fit  to  dig  in  the  spring.  These  cellars  make 
the  nurseryman  somewhat  independent  of  conditions  of 
weather  and  trade,  and  they  ensure  to  the  planter  quick 
delivery  of  stock  which  shows  no  winter  injury.  A  common 
style  of  nursery  cellar  is  shown  in  Fig.  143.  It  is  a  wooden 
structure,  commonly  a  third  or  quarter  below  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  with  hollow  walls  and  a  tarred  and  gravelled 
roof.  It  should  be  provided  with  ample  facilities  for  ventila- 
tion, either  by  means  of  windows  along  the  sides  or  flues  in 
the  roof,  or  both.  It  has  a  dirt  floor.  In  this  building,  the 
trees  are  heeled-in  very  thickly  in  the  fall.  The  trees  are 
either  stood  straight  up,  or  they  may  be  piled  in  tiers. 


142.   Heikes"  tree  gauge. 

These  tiers  are  made  up  of  overlapping  horizontal  layers  laid 
in  opposite  directions.  The  roots  of  the  first  layer  are  laid 
towards  the  center  and  damp  sand  thrown  over  them.  Upon 
these  are  laid  the  roots  of  the  second  layer,  with  the  tops  in 
the  opposite  direction.  Dirt  is  again  thrown  on,  when 
another  layer  like  the  first  is  added.  The  tops  are,  therefore, 
always  outward.  These  tops  should  lie  a  little  higher  than 
the  roots,  and  in  order  to  raise  them,  and  also  to  bind  the 
pile,  scantlings  or  boards  are  laid  crosswise  of  the  layers,  at 
ine  outward  end,  at  intervals.  Moss  may  be  used  in  place 
of  sand,  although  the  latter  is  more  easily  obtained  and  kept, 
and  is  generally  used.  In  piling  or  cording  trees  in  this 
fashion,  it  is  important  that  a  sufficient  passage  or  alley  be 
left  between  each  pile  to  admit  of  free  circulation  of  air. 
A  passage  through  which  a  man  can  just  pass  is  sufficient. 


WINTER     STORING    OF    TREES.  145 

A  cellar  a  hundred  feet  long,  twenty  feet  wide,  and  ten  feet 
high  in  the  clear,  will  winter  about  25,000  three-year-old 
apple  trees,  if  the  trees  are  corded,  as  already  described. 
These  storage  cellars  soon  engender  mold  or  fungus  if 
they  are  allowed  to  become  too  warm  or  too  close.  Cel- 
lars with  floors  as  high  as  the  surface  of  the  ground  keep 
"sweeter"  than  those  which  are  sunken.  The  remedy  for 
this  fungus,  which  often  does  great  damage  to  stock,  is  to 
keep  the  house  well  aired,  and  then  to  kill  it  out  by  fumi- 
gating. A  common  practice  is  to  burn  shavings  or  sawdust 
in  the  cellar,  and  then  open  the  doors  and  windows  and  air 
the  place.  If  the  smudge  is  dense,  the  fungus  is  said  to  be 
easily  destroyed.  Evaporating  sulphur — not  burning  it — 
upon  an  oil  stove  is  also  effective.  Place  the  sulphur  in  a 


143-  Storage  cellar. 

pan  and  set  this  pan  in  another  of  about  the  same  size,  in  the 
bottom  of  which  is  a  layer  of  sand  a  half  inch  thick.  Place 
both  of  them  upon  the  stove,  and  allow  the  sulphur  to  melt 
and  evaporate,  filling  the  house  with  the  fumes.  The  layer 
of  sand  will  prevent  the  sulphur  from  catching  fire,  unless  it 
is  allowed  to  run  over.  Burning  sulphur  quickly  kills  all 
plants  which  are  in  active  growth.  Its  action  upon  dormant 
nursery  stock  is  unknown  to  the  writer.  A  low  temperature 
and  an  abundance  of  fresh  air,  however,  are  the  best  safe- 
guards against  fungus.  They  are  also  essential  to  the  pre- 
servation of  the  bright,  vivid  color  of  the  stock.  Trees 
which  are  wintered  in  close  and  warm  cellars  look  dull  in 
the  spring.  The  temperature  should  be  kept  as  near  freez- 


146  GRAFTAGE. 

ing  as  possible.  When  the  stock  is  not  being  handled,  a 
slight  frost  does  no  damage. 

In  heeling-in  trees  in  the  open  for  the  winter,  care  should 
be  exercised  to  select  a  well-drained  and  protected  place. 
The  roots  are  placed  in  furrows  and  covered,  and  the  tops 
are  laid  down  almost  horizontal.  Another  row  is  lapped 
over  the  first,  much  as  shingles  are  lapped  over  each  other. 
Loose  straw  or  litter  about  the  place  should  be  removed  or 
tramped  down,  else  mice  may  rest  in  it  and  girdle  the  trees. 
An  excellent  device  to  keep  mice  out  of  a  heeling-in  yard 
is  to  place  a  foot  board  on  edge  all  about  the  place,  leaning 
the  top  out  a  little.  Hold  the  boards  in  place  by  stakes, 
close  up  the  cracks,  and  tramp  the  earth  against  the  bot- 
tom of  the  boards,  and  the  mice  are  completely  fenced  out. 
If  it  is  necessary  to  cover  the  tops  of  peach  and  other 
tender  trees,  evergreen  boughs  will  be  found  to  be  the 
most  satisfactory  protection. 

Trimming  Trees  in  the  Nursery.— One  of  the  chief  efforts 
of  the  nurseryman  is  to  make  his  trees  stocky.  Many  fac- 
tors conspire  to  produce  this  result.  Any  treatment  which 
makes  trees  grow  vigorously  may  be  expected  to  contribute 
to  their  stockiness,  if  the  grower  does  not  circumvent  it  by 
some  subsequent  operation.  The  trees  should  be  given 
plenty  of  room.  The  rows  in  the  nursery  should  stand 
3J^  feet  apart,  for  ordinary  fruit  trees,  and  the  plants  should 
stand  10  inches  or  a  foot  apart  in  the  row.  During  this 
first  year,  the  leaves  should  not  be  rubbed  off  the  bodies 
of  the  trees,  else  the  trees  will  grow  too  much  at  the  top 
and  become  too  slender.  If,  however,  strong  forking  or 
side  branches  appear  low  down  —  as  often  happens  in  sour 
cherries — they  should  be  removed.  Budded  stock  should 
reach  a  height  of  4  feet  or  more  the  first  year.  The  fol- 
lowing spring,  the  stock  is  headed-in  uniformly,  reducing 
it  to  the  height  of  3  or  4  feet,  according  to  kind  and  the 
uses  for  which  the  stock  is  grown.  In  New  York  nur- 
series, the  average  apple  stock  is  headed  back  to  a  height 
of  about  3  feet  3  inches  to  3  feet  5  inches.  Sweet  cherries 


TRIMMING. DWARFING.  147 

are  headed  2  to  3  inches  taller.  Sour  cherries  are  gener- 
ally not  headed-in,  because  they  make  a  less  tall  growth  ; 
but  if  they  go  much  above  3  feet  they  are  headed  back. 
Soon  after  the  trees  are  headed  back  this  second  spring, 
they  are  "sprouted."  This  operation  consists  in  hoeing 
the  dirt  away  from  the  base  of  the  tree  and  cutting  off  all 
sprouts  which  start  from  the  root  or  the  crown.  After 
heading-in,  the  tree  "feathers  out"  from  top  to  bottom. 
It  is  a  common  practice  to  rub  off  these  new  shoots  which 
appear  upon  the  body,  allowing  only  those  shoots  to  remain 
which  spring  from  near  the  top  of  the  trunk,  and  which  are 
presumed  to  form  the  top  of  the  future  tree.  This  rubbing 
off  of  the  side  shoots  early  in  the  second  season  is  gener- 
ally to  be  condemned.  It  tends  to  make  the  tree  grow 
top-heavy,  whilst  the  body  remains  spindling  and  weak. 
A  better  plan  is  to  allow  the  shoots  to  remain  until  July 
or  early  August,  when  they  are  cut  off  close  to  the  trunk. 
The  wounds  will  then  heal  over,  or  nearly  so,  by  fall,  and 
the  tree  will  have  grown  strong  and  stocky. 

Dwarfing. — The  dwarfing  of  trees  depends  upon  two 
factors, — working  upon  a  slow-growing  stock,  and  subse- 
quent heading-in.  In  particular  cases,  dwarfing  is  also 
accomplished  by  growing  the  trees  in  pots  or  boxes.  The 
nurseryman  supplies  the  first  factor, — the  tree  united  to  the 
dwarf  root.  But  this  factor  alone  rarely  insures  a  perma- 
nently dwarf  tree.  The  vigorous  top  will  soon  impart 
some  of  its  habit  to  the  stock  ;  and  if  the  tree  is  planted 
so  deep  that  the  union  is  a  few  inches  below  ground,  roots 
may  start  from  the  cion,  and  the  tree  will  become  half- 
dwarf,  or  even  full  standard.  The  capability  of  keeping 
the  tree  dwarf  lies  mostly  with  the  grower,  although,  unfor- 
tunately, the  grower  usually  ascribes  it  wholly  to  the  nur- 
seryman. An  excellent  illustration  of  all  this  is  afforded 
by  the  cherry.  If  cherry  trees  are  to  be  dwarfed,  they  are 
to  be  worked  upon  the  Mahaleb  cherry  ;  and  yet  the  greater 
part  of  the  sweet  cherries,  and  some  ok  the  sour  ones,  are 
budded  upon  Mahaleb  roots  in  eastern  nurseries,  but  our 


148  GRAFTAGE. 

cherry  trees  are  not  dwarfs  thereby.  If,  however,  the 
grower  were  to  head-in  his  Mahaleb-worked  cherries 
each  year,  in  the  same  way  as  he  is  advised  to  treat 
his  dwarf  pears,  he  would  be  able  to  have  dwarf  trees. 
In  like  manner,  the  plum  upon  the  Myrobalan  plum,  the 
peach  upon  the  plum,  the  apple  upon  the  Doucin  or  even 
upon  the  Paradise,  soon  cease  to  be  dwarfs  if  allowed 
to  grow  to  their  utmost.  The  pear  upon  the  quince 
affords  the  most  complete  dwarf  fruit  tree  which  we  have, 
but  even  this  soon  ceases  to  be  a  true  dwarf  if  heading-in 
is  neglected. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  plants  which  are  dwarf  by 
nature,  and  they  therefore  do  not  require  to  be  worked 
upon  slow-growing  stocks.  The  Paradise  apple  is  itself 
such  a  natural  dwarf,  and  was  originally  a  seedling.  (For 
an  account  of  dwarf  apples,  see  Lodeman,  Bulletin  116, 
Cornell  Experiment  Station.)  Dwarf  spruces,  pines,  vi- 
burnums, beans,  dahlias,  and  scores  of  other  plants  are 
well  known.  Such  dwarfs  are  generally  propagated  by 
means  of  cuttings,  although  some  of  them,  as  the  garden 
vegetables  and  annual  flowers,  reproduce  themselves  from 
seeds.  The  particular  methods  of  dealing  with  these  vari- 
eties are  detailed  under  the  respective  species  in  the  next 
chapter. 

Root-grafted  vs.  Budded  Trees.— There  has  been  a  most 
controversial  discussion  of  the  relative  merits  of  root-grafted 
and  budded  fruit  trees  these  many  years.  For  the  most 
part,  this  discussion  has  been  unprofitable,  for  there  has 
been  litttle  earnest  effort  to  arrive  at  any  just  or  exact 
method  of  comparison.  The  disputants  have  too  often  dealt 
in  generalized  statements,  and  it  must  be  said  that  preju- 
dice, and  the  desire  to  advocate  the  particular  stock  which 
one  is  growing,  are  not  unknown  to  these  discussions. 
Some  experiments  have  been  tried  for  the  purpose  of  deter- 
mining the  relative  merits  of  the  two  methods  of  propaga- 
tion, but  none  of  the  experimenters  seem  to  have  really 
analyzed  the  subject  or  to  have  arrived  at  any  truthful 


ROOT-GRAFTED     AND     BUDDED     TREES.  149 

conclusions.     We  must  approach  the  subject  in  an  analyti- 
cal spirit  if  we  are  to  hope  for  useful  results. 

Before  proceeding  to  a  discussion  of  the  comparative 
effects  of  budding  and  root-grafting,  it  is  essential  that  cer- 
tain definitions  be  clearly  fixed  in  the  mind.  The  budding 
of  fruit-stocks  in  the  nursery  is  performed  in  the  summer 
time  upon  stocks  which  were  set  in  the  spring,  as  fully 
explained  on  pages  94  to  105.  These  stocks  are  trimmed 
or  "dressed"  before  they  are  set  in  the  nursery.  Root- 
grafting,  as  already  explained  (See  Figs.  103,  104),  is  the 
setting  of  a  cion  upon  a  root.  If  the  entire  root  is  used,  the 
operation  is  known  as  whole-root-grafting.  In  this  case, 
the  cion  is  set  at  the  crown  and  the  root  is  dressed  in  much 
the  same  way  that  the  stock  is  dressed  when  it  is  to  be  used 
for  budding.  If  only  a  portion  of  the  root  is  used  as  stock 
(as  in  Fig.  103),  the  operation  is  known  as  piece-root-graft- 
ing. It  is  this  particular  operation  which  is  ordinarily 
understood  when  people  speak  of  root-grafting.  It  is  ap- 
parent that  the  various  pieces  made  of  the  root  may  not  be 
comparable.  The  top  piece  includes  the  crown,  at  which 
point  the  cion  is  inserted.  The  lowest  piece  comprises  the 
tip,  or  smallest,  and  therefore  weakest,  portion  of  the  root. 
Ordinarily,  about  three  pieces  are  made  of  a  root  in  the 
root-grafting  of  apple  stocks. 

It  is  evident  that  there  are  two  distinct  problems  con- 
cerned in  the  consideration  of  the  comparative  merits  of 
budded  and  root-grafted  trees.  One  has  to  do  with  the 
comparison  of  the  budding  with  the  grafting,  and  the  other 
with  the  different  methods  of  trimming  or  cutting  the  stocks. 
It  is  perfectly  well  known  that,  in  general,  budding  and 
grafting  are  equally  efficacious  methods  of  propagation, 
other  things  being  equal.  In  other  words,  the  mere  fact  that 
one  tree  comes  from  a  bud  and  another  from  a  cion  should 
make  no  necessary  difference  in  the  value  of  the  tree.  All 
the  characteristic  differences  between  budded  and  root- 
grafted  trees  are  due  to  the  methods  of  trimming  the  stocks, 
and  not  to  the  actual  methods  of  propagation. 
K 


I5O  GRAFTAGE. 

It  is  indisputable  that  there  is  great  difference  in  the 
root  system  between  the  ordinary  budded  tree  and  the 
ordinary  root-grafted  tree.  The  roots  of  the  root-grafted 
tree,  as  it  leaves  the  nursery,  are  comparatively  shallow  and 
horizontal,  and  are  generally  prongy  and  strongly  developed 
on  one  side  or  another  of  the  tree.  It  is  well  known,  of 
course,  that  different  varieties  of  apples  develop  a  different 
root  system  in  the  nursery  row,  but  the  same  variety  ordi- 
narily has  a  very  different  root  development  when  propa- 
gated by  budding  and  by  common  root-grafting.  The  writer 
has  seen  this  difference  so  uniformly  for  so  many  years,  and 
upon  such  an  extent  and  variety  of  stock,  both  east  and 
west,  that  he  has  no  hesitation  in  positively  affirming  that, 
as  generally  grown,  the  root  system  of  budded  trees  is 
unlike  that  of  root-grafted  trees. 

This  difference  in  root  development  pro- 
ceeds from  the  method  of  cutting  the  stock.  In 
other  words,  if  the  pieces  of  roots  were  budded 
they  would  undoubtedly  develop  the  same  sys- 
tem of  roots  that  they  do  when  grafted.  The 
philosophy  of  it  will  become  apparent 
upon  a  moment's  reflection.  The 
short  piece  of  root  has  fewer  side 
rootlets  than  the  whole  or  long  root. 
It  is  these  side  rootlets  which  develop 
into  the  main  branches  of  the  root 
system.  The  root  system  of  the  piece-root 
must,  therefore,  be  shallower  at  first  start  than 
that  of  the  whole  root,  because  the  axis  is 
shorter.  Moreover,  these  side  rootlets  do  not 
develop  simultaneously  upon  all  sides  of  the 
main  axis.  They  are  scattered  along  the  axis.  144.  New  roots 
A  section  or  piece  of  the  root  may  contain 
rootlets  only  on  one  or  two  sides  of  the  axis, 
and  as  these  rootlets  grow  the  system  becomes  one-sided. 
There  is  still  another  reason  for  the  prongy  and  one-sided 
character  of  the  root-system,  of  piece-roots.  The  piece  of 


ROOT-GRAFTED  AND  BUDDED  TREES. 


root  is  essentially  a  cutting.  Every  gardener  knows  that 
roots  seldom  start  symmetrically  from  all  sides  of  the  end 
of  a  cutting.  Fig.  144  (from  a  photograph)  shows  young 
roots  springing  off  from  the  end  of  a 
cutting.  All  three  of  them  start  from 
nearly  a  common  point.  It  is  a  one- 
sided or  unsymmetrical  system.  Fig. 
145  shows  two  root-grafts,  drawn  from 
life,  as  they  had  grown  at  the  expira- 
tion of  two  months  after  they  were  planted 
in  the  nursery.  They  show  the  same  pecu- 
liarities of  root  development  as  the  cutting 
does  in  Fig.  144. 

The  reader  now  desires  to  know  why 
the  same  one-sided  method  of  root  growth 
does  not  take  place  at  the  end  of  the  root 
in  the  budded  tree,  for  these  stocks  are 
dressed  or  trimmed— that  is,  the  tips  of  the 
roots  are  cut  off— before  they  are  set  in  the 
nursery  row.  The  whole  question  turns 
upon  how  much  the  roots  of  the  stocks  are 
cut  back.  If  only  the  very  tip  is 

V>^^  cut  off,  and  there  is  a  strong  root 

\  \\  k  development  above  it,  this  tip  will 
'  '  ^  simply  heal  over  and  develop  no 
side  roots,  or  else  what  side  roots 
do  develop  will  be  very  weak.  This 
is  practically  wh#t  takes  place  in  the 
145-  young  root  grafts.  common  treatment  of  budding  stock. 
If,  however,  the  root  were  very  severely  cut  back,  the  same 
development  would  no  doubt  start  from  the  tip  of  the 
budded  stock  as  from  that  of  the  root-grafted  stock.  Fig. 
146,  from  life,  shows  how  this  may  occur.  The  stock  on 
the  left  is  budded,  that  on  the  right  grafted.  Both  were 
severely  headed-in  (cut  off  at  T),  and  both  have  developed 
prongy  roots.  The  budded  stock  was  much  longer  than  the 
other,  however,  and,  therefore,  its  root  system  is  stronger. 


152 


GRAFTAGE. 


146.  Budding 

and  grafting 
on  piece-roots. 


The  whole  question,  therefore,  is  one  of   comparative 
length  and  strength  of  roots  (or  stocks).     A  whole-rooted 
tree  should  be  stronger  and  have 
a  more  symmetrical  root  system, 
at    a    given    age,   than  a  piece- 
rooted  tree.    Yet  there  have  been 
frauds  committed  in 
the  name  of  whole- 
rooted  trees.     As  a 
matter  of  fact,  there 
can  be  no  perfectly 
whole-rooted  trees 
unless  the  bud  or 
cion   is    set    upon 
a    seedling     stock 
which  stands  in  its 

original  position,  for  some  of  the  main 
root  axis  is  broken  off  in  the  process 
*        of  digging.     Yet,  if  stock  is  well  dug, 
this  shortening-in  of  the  tip  of  the  root  is  so 
slight  as  to  be  practically  of  no  account. 

If  the  pieces  of  roots  are  very  short  in  the 
making  of  root-grafts,  the  graft  has  too  little 
power  to  enable  it  to  make  a  strong  growth 
the  first  year.  It  is  a  very  common  practice 
to  cut  off  the  entire  top  of  the  root-grafted 
tree  at  the  end  of  the  first  year,  in  order  to 
get  a  strong  and  straight  body  the  following 
year.  This  practice  is  perfectly  justifiabl  e 
only  that  the  grower  counts  the  age  of  his 
tree  from  the  date  of  the  cut-back,  and  no* 


from  the  date  of  the  grafting, 
grafted  trees  are  very  likely  to 
make  such  a  short  growth  the 
first  season  that  if  the  terminal 
bud  should  be  winter-killed,  the 
tree  will  branch  too  low,  or  if  a 


Root 


.  Root-graft,  headed  back 


ROOT-GRAFTED  AND  BUDDED  TREES.        153 

leader  starts  from  a  lateral  bud  the  body  will  be  crooked. 
A  good  nurseryman  always  wants  his  first  season's  growth 
to  be  high  enough  to  form  the  entire  body  of  the  tree.  If 
this  body  is  obliged  to  grow  on  from  its  terminal  bud  the 
second  season,  the  annual  ring  can  be  plainly  seen  on  the 
body  —  an  indisputable  mark  of  age,  which  the  customer 
will  be  quick  to  discern.  Fig.  147,  from  life,  shows  a  com- 
mon method  of  (Dealing  with  root-grafted  trees.  The  union 
is  at  A,  and  the  top  of  the  original  cion  at  B.  At  the  end 
of  the  first  season  (or  the  following  spring),  the  tree  was  cut 


148.  Ben  Davis  trees,  budded  and  root-grafted. 

back  to  c.     The  nurseryman  will  count  the  age  of  his  tree 
from  the  point  c. 

At  the  same  actual  age,  and  grown  in  the  same  place,  the 
budded  tree  is  nearly  always  larger  than  the  root-grafted 
tree,  as  ordinarily  grown.  The  longer  and  better  the  piece 
of  root  upon  which  the  graft  is  made,  however,  the  less 
the  difference  will  be.  The  illustrations,  all  from  actual  and 
typical  trees,  show  some  of  these  differences.  Fig.  148 
shows  six  Ben  Davis  apple  trees  grown  in  a  New  York 
nursery.  The  two  trees  upon  the  left  are  budded.  The 
other  four  are  root-grafted.  The  two  middle  trees  had 
been  transplanted,  but  the  two  upon  the  right  stood  where 
the  grafts  were  planted.  It  will  be  seen  how  completely  the 
transplanting  has  broken  up  the  tendency  to  tap-roots  and 


154 


GRAFTAGE. 


prongs,  and  has  developed  a  more  symmetrical  root  system. 
The  root  system  of  the  budded  trees  is  deeper  and  more 
symmetrical  because  the  stocks  or  roots  were  longer.  Figs. 
149  and  150  each  show,  beginning  at  the  left,  Fallawater, 
Golden  Russet,  Hubbardston  and  Gravenstein  apple  trees. 


Root-grafted  trees. 


Those  in  Fig.  149  are  first-class  three-year  budded  trees 
from  an  eastern  nursery.  Those  in  Fig.  150  are  first-class 
three-year  root-grafted  trees  from  a  western  nursery.  The 
disparity  in  sizes  of  short-piece-root  trees  and  budded  trees 
gf  like  actual  age,  is  well  seen  in  Figs.  151  and  152.  They 


ROOT-GRAFTED  AND  BUDDED  TREES.        155 

are  Mann  apples.  In  Fig.  151,  the  piece- root-grafts,  upon 
the  left,  are  two  years  from  the  graft ;  the  buds,  upon  the 
right,  are  of  like  age.  In  Fig.  152,  the  piece-root-grafts, 
upon  the  left,  are  three  years  old,  and  the  buds,  upon  the 
right,  are  two  years.  The  different  root  systems  of  the  two 
are  apparent  in  each  case. 

All  these  comparisons  are  not  made  for  the  purpose  of 
showing  that  root-grafts  are  inferior  to  buds,  but  simply  that 
they  are  different  from  them.     Yet,  the  author  is  convinced 
that  very  many  of  the   root-grafted  trees  are  made  with 
such  short  and  weak  pieces  of  roots  that  the  trees  are  dis- 
tinctly   inferior.      The  practice  of 
root-grafting  fruit  trees  has  almost 
disappeared  from  the  east.     East- 
ern buyers  generally  desire  strong, 
heavy   trees,   with   deep   and   full 
root  systems ;     and    there    is    an 
opinion — though  not  resting  upon 
definite     experiments  —  that     the 
deep-rooted    budded    trees    enter 
deeper  into  the  ground  and  make 
longer-lived  trees  than   the   root- 
grafted   samples. 

The  entire  question  of  the  ulti- 
mate merits  of  the  two  classes  of 
trees  rests,  therefore,  more  upon 
the  way  in  which  the  stocks  are 
trimmed  and  handled  when  the( 
propagating  is  done,  than  upon  the 
mere  fact  of  their  being  budded 
or  root-grafted.  Root-grafting  has 
distinct  merits  in  the  northwest, 
where  own-rooted  trees  are  de- 
sired (see  Fig.  104),  and  it  cheap-  /5/.  Piece-root-grafts  and  duds, 
ens  propagation;  but  as  propa-  two  years  old. 

gating  is  ordinarily  done  in  our  nurseries,  the  author  is 
distinctly  of  the  opinion  that,  as  a  rule,  the  budded  apple 


156  GRAFTAGE. 

tree  is  a  stronger  and  better  tree,  as  it  leaves  the  nur- 
sery, than  the  root-grafted  tree  is  when  of  the  same  age 
and  when  grown  under  the  same  conditions.  He  is  equally 
convinced,  on  the  other  hand,  however,  that  it  is  possible 
to  grow  as  good  trees  by  root-grafting  as  by  budding. 


NOTE.— The  student,  who  may  desire  to  pursue  the  subject  of  graftage 
further,  should  p  ocure  Charles  Ballet's  "L'Art  de  Greffer."  There  is 
an  English  edition. 


152    Pifce-root-grafts  and  buds,  two 
and  three  years  respectively. 


CHAPTER   VI. 


THE    NURSERY    LIST. 
Aaron's  Beard.    See  Hypericum. 
Abelia.     Caprifoliacece. 

In  spring  by  layers  under  a  frame,  and  in  summer  by 
cuttings. 

Abies  (Fir).     Conifer ce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  usually  kept  dry  over 
winter  and  sown  in  spring  in  frames  or  in  protected  bor- 
ders. Cones  should  be  fully  matured  before  being  gath- 
ered. If  they  hold  the  seeds  tightly  they  should  be  placed 
in  a  dry  place,  sometimes  even  in  an  oven,  until  the  scales 
spread.  In  some  species,  as  the  Balsam  fir,  the  cones 
drop  and  fall  to  pieces  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  these  cones 
must  be  gathered  just  before  they  begin  to  fall.  The 
seeds  may  be  separated  by  rubbing  them  in  the  hands, 
when  they  are  thoroughly  dry,  then  winnowing  them  out 
through  a  sieve.  In  order  to  obtain  stocky  plants,  the 
seedlings  should  be  vransplanted  the  following  spring. 
The  named  varieties  and  the  species  which  do  not  pro- 
duce sufficient  seed  are  winter-worked  upon  seedling 
stocks  which  are  potted  in  the  fall.  Cuttings  of  growing 
tips  set  in  sand  in  a  close,  well-shaded  house  or  frame 
are  often  successful.  (See  Figs.  47  and  67,  and  page  64. ) 
Stocks  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil  are  commonly  used.  One- 
year-old  seedlings  are  usually  preferred,  but  in  some  cases 
the  requisite  size  is  not  reached  until  the  second  or  third 
year.  Any  of  the  common  operations  of  grafting  may  be 
employed,  but  the  veneer-graft  is  best.  The  conifers 
are  not  difficult  to  graft.  The  European  Silver  fir  (Abies 
pectinata]  or  the  Balsam  fir  may  be  used  as  a  stock,  but 
the  common  Norway  spruce  is  now  the  most  popular 
stock  for  species  of  both  Abies  and  Picea  (see  Picea), 

(157) 


158  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Abobra.     Cucurbitacecz : 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  rarely  by  soft  cuttings. 

Abroma.     Sterculiacecz. 

By  seeds  sown  in  March.  By  cuttings  made  in  spring 
from  half-ripened  wood,  and  placed  under  a  bell-glass. 

Abronia  (Sand  Verbena).     Nyctaginacetf. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  spring,  after 
the  outer  skin  has  been  peeled  off.  Sow  in  pots  of  sandy 
soil,  and  keep  in  a  frame  until  the  following  spring  ;  then 
place  in  their  flowering  quarters.  By  young  cuttings,  set 
in  spring,  in  sandy  soil. 

Abrus.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  raised  in  heat  or  by  cuttings  under 
a  hand-glass,  in  sand. 

Abutilon.     Malvacetz. 

Sow  seeds  in  pans,  with  same  soil  and  temperature  as 
for  cuttings.  By  cuttings  from  young  wood,  at  almost  any 
season  ;  the  best  time,  however,  is  spring  or  fall.  Insert 
in  pots,  in  a  compost  of  equal  parts  peat,  leaf  mold,  loam 
and  sand,  and  place  in  a  temperature  of  65°  to  75°. 

Acacia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  sandy  peat, 
about  one-fourth  inch  deep,  or  a  little  more  for  large 
seeds.  Soak  in  hot  water  24  hours  if  seeds  are  not  fresh. 
Keep  temperature  about  55°  or  60°,  and  pot  off  when 
large  enough  to  handle.  By  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened 
wood,  put  in  with  a  heel,  in  equal  parts  peat  and  sand, 
covered  with  pure  sand.  Insert  the  cuttings  as  soon  as 
made  ;  water,  and  leave  them  in  the  shade  till  dry.  Place 
under  a  bell-glass,  shade  and  water  to  prevent  flagging. 
Pot  off  when  rooted,  and  keep  in  a  close  pit  or  house  until 
the  plants  are  thoroughly  established.  A.  pubescens  and 
some  others  will  strike  from  root-cuttings.  See,  also, 
Robinia. 

Acalypha.     Euphorbiacea \ 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  sandy  soil  under  a  glass,  in 
stove  heat,  during  late  winter  or  in  spring.  Native  spe- 
cies by  seeds. 

Acanthephippium.     Orchidacete. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs  as  soon  as, 
growth  commences,  (See  under  Orchids.) 


ACANTHOPANAX ACHIMENES.  159 

Acanthopanax.     Like  Aralia. 

Acanthophcenix.     Palmacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  a  moist  bottom  heat,  in 
a  well  decomposed  compost  of  one  part  loam,  one  of 
peat,  one  of  leaf  mold,  and  one  of  sand. 

Acanthus  (Bear's  Breech).     Acanthace<z. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  gentle  heat,  or  by  division 
of  the  root  in  autumn  or  early  spring.  Also  by  root- 
cuttings.  Water  carefully. 

Acer  ( Maple ) .     Sapindacece. 

Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds,  which  should 
be  sown  an  inch  or  two  deep.  Some  very  early-ripening 
species,  as  A.  dasycarpum  and  A.  rubrum  (the  silver  or 
soft  maple  and  the  red  maple),  come  readily  if  seeds  are 
simply  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  They  will  not  keep  well 
until  the  next  spring.  Varieties  are  often  layered,  but 
better  plants  are  obtained  by  grafting.  The  Japanese 
sorts  are  winter-worked  on  imported  A.  polymorphum 
stocks,  either  by  whip-  or  veneer-grafting.  Varieties  of 
native  species  are  worked  upon  common  native  stocks. 
Maples  can  also  be  budded  in  summer,  and  they  grow 
(generally  with  some  difficulty)  from  cuttings  of  soft  and 
ripe  wood. 

Aceras.     Orchidacecz. 

Propagated  by  carefully  made  divisions  of  the  tubers. 
(See  under  Orchids. ) 

Achillea.      Including     Ptarmica    (Yarrow,    Milfoil).      Com- 
posite. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  root  divisions  and  cuttings,  dur- 
ing spring. 

Achimenes,  including  Scheeria.     Gesneracecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  carefully  sown  in  well-drained 
pans,  which  are  filled  nearly  to  the  rim,  leveled,  and  well 
watered  with  a  fine  rose.  Sow  seed  and  cover  lightly 
with  sand,  and  place  in  a  shady  position.  Keep  moist, 
and  apply  water  very  lightly.  Place  a  sheet  of  glass  over 
the  seed-pan.  After  large  enough  to  be  pricked  off,  treat 
like  rooted  cuttings.  By  scales  of  the  corms,  rubbed  off 
and  sown  like  seeds,  barely  covered  with  sand,  and 
placed  in  bottom  heat.  By  leaves,  set  into  pots  of  sim- 
ilar soil  as  for  cuttings,  placing  all  the  petiole  below  the 
surface,  and  placed  in  bottom  heat._  (Fig.  81.)  By  cut- 


160  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

tings  from  any  portion  of  the  stem  ;  insert  in  a  soil  of  equal 
parts  of  peat  and  sand,  in  well-drained  pots,  in  bottom 
heat. 

Achras.     See  Sapota. 
Achyranthes.    See  Iresine. 

Aconitum  (Aconite,  Monk's  Hood,  Wolfs  Bane).     Ranun- 

culacecs. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  coldframe 
or  border ;  also  by  division.  Roots  should  not  be  left 
about,  for  they  are  very  poisonous. 

Acorns.    See  Quercus. 
Acorus.    Aroidece. 

Propagated  during  spring  by  divisions. 

Acrophyllum.     Saxifragacea. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  shoots,  which 
strike  freely  in  a  soil  of  sand  and  peat ;  cover  with  a 
hand-glass,  and  place  in  a  cool  house.  The  roots  should 
be  kept  moist. 

Acrostichum.     See  Ferns. 

Actaea  (Baneberry).     Ranunculacece \ 

Propagated  by  seed  and  by  division  of  roots  during 
spring. 

Actinidia.      Ternstrazmiace<z. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings.  The  cuttings 
should  be  put  in  sandy  soil,  in  autumn,  under  a  hand- 
light. 

Actinetus.     Umbelliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  on  a  hotbed  in  spring,  and  in 
May  the  seedlings  may  be  transplanted  to  the  open  border 
in  a  warm  situation,  where  they  will  flower  and  seed 
freely.  Divisions  of  the  roots  grow  readily. 

Ada.     Orchidacece. 

Propagated  by  divisions  as  soon  as  the  plant  com- 
mences growth.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Adamia.     Saxifragacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  readily 
in  a  compost  of  loam,  peat  and  sand,  under  a  hand-glass. 


ADAM'S  NEEDLE — ASCHYNANTHUS.  161 

Adam's  Needle.     See  Yucca. 

Adenocarpus.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  March,  the  hardy  species  put- 
doors,  and  the  others  in  a  cold  house.  Young  cuttings 
root  freely  in  sand,  if  covered  with  a  hand-glass. 

Adenophora.     Campanulacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  pots 
placed  in  coldframes.  Also  by  suckers. 

Adenostoma.     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  placed  in 
sand,  under  glass,  in  spring  or  autumn. 

Adina.    Rubiacecz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  rich,  loamy  soil,  under 
a  hand  glass,  in  heat. 

Adlumia  (Allegheny  Vine,  Smoke  Vine,  Mountain  Fringe). 

Fumariacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  The  plant  is  a  biennial,  bloom- 
ing the  second  season  only. 

Adonis.     Ranunculacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  The  perennials  may  be  divided 
at  the  root. 

.ffigle  ( Bengal  Quince,  Citrus  trifoliata}.     Rutacecs. 

Propagated  by  ripe  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand 
under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat,  if  not  deprived  of  any  of  their 
leaves.  Also  by  seeds. 

brides.     Orchidace<z. 

The  only  method  of  propagating  this  genus  is  by  re- 
moving the  upper  portion  and  planting  it  separately.  It 
should  always  be  severed  low  enough  to  include  a  few 
roots,  otherwise  a  large  proportion  of  leaves  will  be  lost. 
A  somewhat  dense  shade,  a  moist  atmosphere  and  careful 
watering  are  essential  until  the  young  plant  is  established. 
The  old  stool  will  soon  send  out  lateral  growths,  which, 
in  time,  may  be  separated  and  treated  similarly.  Vanda, 
Saccolabium,  Angraecum,  Renanthera,  are  increased  in  the 
same  way.  (See  under  Orchids. ) 

.ffischynanthus.     Gesneracecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  very  unsatisfactory. 
By  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  a  well-drained  pot,  filled 


102  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

with  a  light  compost,  and  having  a  surface  of  pure  white 
sand,  about  one  inch  deep,  during  spring.  The  best  are 
obtained  from  half-ripened  wood,  cut  into  two  or  three- 
inch  lengths,  and  all  leaves,  with  the  exception  of  one  or 
two  at  the  top,  removed.  Cover  the  cuttings  with  a  bell- 
glass,  and  place  in  moderate  bottom  heat.  When  rooted, 
transfer  singly  to  small  pots,  place  under  hand-glasses 
until  thoroughly  established,  then  gradually  harden  off. 

.aSschynomene.     Leguminoscz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  those  of  the  herbaceous  species 
requiring  a  good  heat  to  start  them  into  growth.  By  cut- 
tings, placed  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  brisk  heat. 

JEsculus  (Horse  Chestnut,  Buckeye).     Sapindacece. 

Propagated  by  stratified  seeds  sown  in  single  rows  in 
spring,  and  by  layers  made  in  the  spring  or  fall ;  or  by 
grafting  or  budding  on  the  common  horse  chestnut  or 
native  buckeye,  usually  under  glass. 

Aganisia.     Orchidacece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs  just  before 
starting  into  new  growth.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Agapanthus  (African  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  or  by  divisions  of  the  old  plants 
in  early  spring. 

Agaricus.    See  Mushroom. 

Agathaea  (species  of  Felicia).     Composites . 

Seeds  and  layers.  Young  cuttings  root  freely,  in  a 
gentle  heat,  at  all  times. 

Agathosma.     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which,  when  young,  root  freely 
in  a  pot  of  sand,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  cool  house. 
They  require  to  be  shaded  somewhat  in  the  summer. 

Agati.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  a  pot  of  sand 
with  a  hand-glass  over  them,  placed  in  heat. 

Agave.     Amaryllidace.ee. 

Increased  by  seeds,  to  secure  the  production  of  which 
the  flowers  generally  need  to  be  pollinated.  Usually  by 
suckers,  which  spring  naturally  from  the  old  plant. 


AGERATUM — ALlSMA.  163 

JSkC£ 

Ageratum,  Cselestina.     Composites. 

Sow  the  seeds  in  January,  in  heat,  in  sandy  soil.  When 
large  enough,  prick  them  off  into  thumb  pots,  and  keep 
in  heat  till  they  grow  freely  ;  then  place  them  in  a  cooler 
house.  Cuttings  are  commonly  used  for  propagation. 

Agrostis  (Bent  Grass).     Graminece. 

Increased  easily  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  the  open 
border. 

Ailanthus  (Tree  of  Heaven).     Simarubacece. 

Propagated  by  suckers ;  and  by  pieces  of  the  roots 
planted  in  a  pot  with  their  points  above  the  ground,  and 
placed  in  a  hotbed.  Seeds  are  used  when  large  quanti- 
ites  are  desired. 

Ajuga  (Bugle).     Labiatce. 

Perennials,  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  bor- 
der, during  spring  or  autumn  ;  by  divisions.  Annuals,  by 
seeds. 

Akebia.     Berberidacece. 

Seeds.  Layers  of  young  or  ripe  wood.  Dormant  (or 
firm  wood)  cuttings,  under  glass  in  summer. 

Albuca.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  offsets  (bulbels)  from  the 
old  bulb. 

Alchemilla  (Lady's  Mantle).     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions  of  the  roots. 
Alder.     See  Alnus. 
Aleurites.     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagated  by  ripe  cuttings  in  sand,  under  a  hand 
glass.  Do  not  remove  leaves. 

Alexandrian  Laurel.     See  Ruscus. 
Alfalfa.     See  Medicago. 
Algaroba  Bean.     See  Carob. 

Alhagi  (Manna  Tree).     Leguminosa. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  hotbed  ;  and  by  cuttings 
rooted  in  sand,  with  a  bell-glass  over  them,  in  heat. 

Alisma  (Water  Plantain).     Alismacece. 

Increased   by  seeds,  which  should   be   sown   in   a   pot 


*1 


6 

104  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

immersed  in  water  and  filled  with  loam,  peat  and  sand; 
also  by  divisions,  which  root  well  in  a  moist,  loamy  soil. 

Allamanda.     Apocynacecs. 

Layers.  Shoot  cuttings  will  root  well  at  anytime  of 
the  year  in  a  bottom  heat  of  from  °yo  to  80°.  The  usual 
time  is,  however,  in  spring,  when  the  old  plants  are 
pruned  back.  Choose  the  tops  of  the  shoots,  retaining 
two  or  three  joints  to  each  cutting.  Place  in  a  compost 
of  sand  and  peat  or  leaf-mould  in  equal  proportions, 
singly,  in  pots,  and  plunge  the  pots  in  the  propagating 
bed. 

Allium,  including  Porrum,  Schcenoprasum.     Liliace<z. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  thinly  in  light  soil  in  early 
spring.  By  bulbels,  planting  them  in  autumn  or  spring 
i  to  4  inches  deep.  See  Onion,  Leek,  Chives,  Garlic. 

Allosorus.    See  Ferns. 

Almonds  ( Prunus  Amygdalus,  P.  Japonica}.     Rosacetz. 

The  almond   is  worked  the  same  as  the    peach  and 

apricot.     Seedling  almond  stocks  are  best,  but  the  peach 

is  often  used.     Apricot  stocks  are  sometimes  employed, 

but  they  are  not  to  be  recommended. 

Double-flowering  almond  will  grow  from  root-cuttings 

if  on  own  roots.     Heel-in   plants   in  fall,  and  buds  will 

begin  to  form  in  three  to  six  weeks  ;  then  make  cuttings. 

Results  are  poor  when  cuttings  are  taken  directly  upon 

first  lifting  the  plants.     See  Prunus. 

Alnus  (Alder).     Cupuliferts. 

Propagated  usually  by  seeds,  which  are  gathered  in 
the  fall  and  well  dried.  Then  they  are  sprinkled  lightly 
on  the  ground  and  covered  very  thinly.  Towards  the 
end  of  the  year  the  seedlings  are  planted  in  rows  il/2  feet 
apart,  and  6  inches  from  each  other,  where  they  may  re- 
main for  two  years,  after  which  they  can  be  placed  where 
they  are  intended  to  stand.  Planting  is  best  done  in 
October  or  April.  They  are  also  increased,  but  rarely, 
by  suckers,  by  cuttings  and  by  grafting. 

Alocasia.     Aroidece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions,  as  for  caladium. 

Aloe.     Liliacecz. 

Commonly  propagated  by  suckers,  which  spring  from 
the  base  of  the  plant.  Seeds  are  sometimes  employed. 


ALONSOA — AMARYLLIS.  165 

Alonsoa.     Scrophulariacecs. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring ;  also  by  cuttings 
in  sandy  soil,  in  gentle  heat.  The  herbaceous  species 
may  be  treated  as  outdoor  summer  annuals,  and  should 
be  raised  in  little  heat,  and  planted  out  in  May. 

Aloysia  (species  of  Lippia,  Sweet-scented  Verbena,  Lemon 

Verbena).      Verbenacece. 

Increased  easily  in  spring  by  young  wood.  The  cut- 
tings will  root  in  about  three  weeks,  in  sandy  soil  with  gen- 
tle heat.  Also  by  cuttings  of  ripened  wood  in  autumn. 

Alsophila.    See  Ferns. 
Alstroemeria.     Amaryllidacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds.  By  a  careful  division  of  the  fleshy 
roots,  during  fall  or  spring. 

Alternanthera  (  Telanthera  Bettzichiana}.    Amarantacea. 

Commonly  raised  from  cuttings  of  growing  wood.  For 
spring  and  summer  bedding,  the  plants  are  started  in  late 
winter.  The  stock  plants,  from  which  cuttings  are  taken, 
are  procured  from  cuttings  made  late  in  summer.  Seeds 
are  little  used. 

Althaea  (Marsh-Mallow,  Hollyhock).     Malvacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  divisions.  The  biennial 
species  must  be  raised  from  seeds  every  year.  See 
Hollyhock. 

Alum  Root.    See  Heuchera. 

Alyssum(  Mad  wort).     Crucifercz. 

Increased  by  seeds  (particularly  sweet  alyssum  and 
other  annuals)  sown  in  the  open  border  or  in  pans  of 
sandy  soil.  By  divisions  and  layers.  By  cuttings  made 
from  young  shoots  two  to  three  inches  in  length,  placed  in 
sandy  loam,  early  in  the  season,  in  a  shady  place. 

Amarantus.    Amarantacecs. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  hotbeds  in  spring,  and 
thinned  out  when  about  one-half  inch  high.  Late  in 
spring  they  may  be  transplanted  outdoors  in  their  perma- 
nent situation,  or  into  pots.  Sometimes  sown  in  the  open. 

Amaryllis.    Amaryllidacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  offsets.  Seedlings  will  bloom 
in  from  one  to  two  years. 


l66  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Am&lanchier      (Shad-bush,      Juneberry,      Service      berry). 

Rosacece. 

Seeds.  Layers  and  cuttings  in  autumn.  By  grafting,  in 
early  spring,  on  the  mountain  ash,  hawthorn  or  the 
quince,  or  the  weaker  on  the  stronger-growing  species. 
See  Juneberry. 

Amelias.     Composites. 

Increased  by  divisions ;  or  by  cuttings  under  glass  in 
spring. 

Amherstia.     Leguminoscz. 

Propagated  by  seeds ;  also  by  cuttings  of  the  half- 
ripened  wood  inserted  in  sand  under  a  glass,  in  bottom 
heat  of  about  80°. 

Amianthemum.     See  Zygadenus. 

Amorpha  (Lead  Plant,  Bastard  Indigo).     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  usually.  Layers  or  cuttings,  taken 
off  at  the  joint,  strike  readily  if  placed  in  a  sheltered  situa- 
tion early  in  autumn.  They  should  remain  undisturbed 
till  the  following  autumn. 

Amorphophallus.     Atoidece.  *' 

Propagated  by  offsets,  or  cormels,  and  by  seeds,  which, 
however,  are  usually  sparingly  produced  in  cultivation. 

Ampelopsis.      Vitacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  especially  the  one  known  as  A. 
Veitchii,  or  Boston  ivy  (properly  A.  tricuspidata}.  Layers 
or  cuttings  made  in  spring  from  the  young  soft  wood,  root 
freely  in  gentle  heat.  By  cuttings  having  a  good  eye,  if 
taken  in  September  and  pricked  under  hand-lights  .in 
sandy  soil  on  the  open  border,  or  in  pots.  Hard-wood 
cuttings  or  rooted  runners  are  commonly  employed  in 
this  country  for  A.  quinquefolia  (Virginia  Creeper). 

Amphicome.     Bignoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  early  spring,  in  pots  of 
sandy  soil  placed  in  a  greenhouse.  By  young  shoots  in- 
serted in  sandy  soil  in  gentle  heat  in  spring. 

Amsonia.    Apocynacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds ;  by  divisions  of  the  roote  in 
spring ;  or  by  cuttings  during  the  summer  months. 

Amygdalus.    See   Prunus. 


ANACARDIUM ANEMIA.  167 

Anacardium  (Cashew).     Anacardiacece. 

Ripened  cuttings,  with  their  leaves  left  on,  root  freely  in 
sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Anagallis  ( Pimpernel ).     Primulacece. 

The  annuals,  by  seeds  sown  in  a  warm  place  in  spring ; 
the  perennials,  by  cuttings  from  young  shoots,  or  by  divis- 
ion, at  any  time,  either  under  a  hand  glass  or  in  a  closed 
frame.  Keep  in  the  shade,  and  when  thoroughly  estab- 
lished harden  off  gradually. 

Ananas.    See  Pine  Apple. 

Anantherix.    Asclepiadacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  ripen  in  abundance,  or  by 
division  of  the  root. 

Anastatica  (Resurrection  Plant).     Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  the  spring  in  heat,  and  the 
plants  afterwards  potted  off  and  plunged  again  in  heat  to 
hasten  their  growth. 

Anchusa.    Borraginacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  early 
spring  in  pots  of  sandy  soil ;  they  will  germinate  in  three 
or  four  weeks.  Also  by  divisions,  and  rarely  by  cuttings. 

Andersonia.     Epacridacece . 

Propagated  by  cuttings  from  tips  of  young  shoots. 
These  should  be  made  in  autumn,  winter  or  spring,  and 
planted  in  sand  in  a  gentle  heat,  with  a  bell-glass  over 
them. 

Andromeda.    Ericacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  thinly  as  soon  as  ripe,  in 
pots  or  pans,  in  sandy  peat  soil.  Living  sphagnum  is 
an  excellent  material  upon  which  to  sow  andromeda 
seeds.  Place  in  a  cool  frame  or  greenhouse,  giving 
plenty  of  air.  The  young  plants  should  be  planted  out 
in  spring,  if  large  enough,  or  pricked  into  boxes  if  small. 
By  layers,  which,  if  carefully  pegged  down  during  Sep- 
tember, will  take  twelve  months  to  make  sufficient  roots 
to  allow  of  their  being  separated  ;  layerage  is  a  common 
method. 

Anemia.    See  Ferns. 


l68  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Anemone  (Wind  Flower).     Ranunculacett. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  root  divisions  or  root  cuttings  in 
autumn  or  early  spring;  the  seeds  are  better  sown  as 
soon  as  ripe  in  pans,  in  a  coldframe. 

Angelica.     Umbelliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  Septem- 
ber or  March,  in  ordinary  soil. 

Angelonia.     Scrophulariacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  planted  in  spring 
in  hotbeds,  and  transplanted  in  the  open  in  May.  By 
cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  in  spring.  These  root 
readily  under  a  hand-glass  or  in  'a  propagating-bed,  if 
given  plenty  of  air  daily. 

Angraecum.     See  ^Erides. 

Anguloa.     Orchidacece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs,  just  before 
they  commence  to  grow.  (See  under  Orchids. ) 

Anisanthus.     See  Antholyza. 

Anise.     Umbelliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  ordinary  soil,  on  a  warm, 
sunny  border  in  spring. 

Ancectochilus.     Orchidacece. 

Propagated  by  cutting  off  the  growing  top  just  below 
the  last  new  root,  dividing  the  remainder  of  the  stem  into 
lengths  of  two  or  three  joints.  (See  under  Orchids. ) 

Anomatheca  (referred  by  some  to  Lapeyrousia).     Iridacece. 
Increased  sometimes  by  seeds  sown  very  thinly  in  seed 
pans  as  soon  as  ripe.     Also,  multiply  very  rapidly  by  cut- 
ting up  the  masses  once  a  year.     Offsets. 

Anona  (Custard  Apple).    Anonacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which,  in  the  north,  should  be 
sown  in  pots  and  plunged  into  a  hotbed.  By  ripened 
cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  a 
moist  heat. 

Ansellia.     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  divisions  of  the  tubers  just  after  flower- 
ing. (See  under  Orchids.) 


ANTENNARIA — APHELANDRA. 

X 

Antennaria.     Composites. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  a  coldframe, 
and  by  divisions  of  the  roots  in  spring. 

Anthemis  (Chamomile).     Composites. 
Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions. 

Anthericum,  Phalangium.     Liliacees. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  as  early  as  possible  after  they 
are  ripe,  in  a  coldframe  ;  by  division  of  the  roots. 

Antholyza,  including  Anisanthus.     Iridacees. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe,  in  light  soil,  in  a  cool  house.  Here  they  will  germi- 
nate the  following  spring,  and  will  be  fit  to  plant  out  in 
the  summer  of  the  same  year.  Also  by  offsets. 

Anthurium.     Aroidees. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  shallow, 
well-drained  pans  or  pots  filled  with  a  compost  of  peat, 
loam,  moss,  broken  crocks  or  charcoal,  and  clean  sand. 
Cover  lightly  and  place  in  a  close,  moist  propagating 
case,  where  a  temperature  of  75°  to  85°  is  maintained  ;  or 
the  pots  may  be  covered  with  bell-glasses.  Keep  the 
soil  in  a  uniformly  moist  condition.  Also  increased  by 
divisions,  which  should  be  made  in  January. 

Anthyllis  (Kidney  Vetch).     Leguminoses. 

Herbaceous  perennials,  increased  by  seeds  or  cuttings. 
The  cuttings  of  most  species  will  root  in  a  pot  of  sandy 
soil,  with  a  bell-glass  over  them,  in  a  cool  house  or  frame. 
Seed  of  the  annuals  should  be  sown  in  a  warm,  dry  place 
in  the  open  ground. 

Antirrhinum  (Snapdragon).     Scrophulariaceee. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring  or  midsum- 
mer ;  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  taken  in  September, 
when  they  will  readily  root  in  a  coldframe,  or  under  a 
hand-glass. 

Aphelandra.     Acanthacees. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  from  half-ripened  wood  taken 
off  with  a  heel.  Cut  the  base  of  each  clean  across ;  in- 
sert an  inch  apart  in  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and  plunge  in  a 
brisk  bottom  heat. 


I7O  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Apios  (Ground-Nut).     Leguminos<z. 

Propagated  by  the  tubers,  or  divisions  of  them  ;  also 
easily  by  seeds. 

Aplectrum  (Putty-Root).     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  the  bulb-like  subterranean  tubers  ;  also 
by  seeds.  A  difficult  plant  to  grow. 

Apocynum  (Dog's  Bane).     Apocynace<z. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  suckers  and  divisions.  The  best 
time  to  divide  is  just  as  the  plants  are  starting  into 
growth  in  spring. 

Aponogeton.     Naiadacecs. 

Increased  rapidly  by  seeds  and  offsets.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  pots  plunged  in  water 
and  covered  with  glass. 

Apple  (Pyrus  Mains}.     Rosacece. 

Standard  apple  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds,  and  dwarf 
stocks  from  mound  layers.  Apple  seeds  are  either  im- 
ported from  France  or  are  obtained  from  pomace.  The 
French  seeds  give  what  are  technically  known  as  crab 
stocks,  the  word  crab  being  used  in  the  sense  of  a  wild  or 
inferior  apple.  The  yearling  stocks  themselves  are  im- 
ported from  France  in  great  numbers.  It  has  been  sup- 
posed that  French  crab  stocks  are  hardier  and  more  vig- 
orous than  ours,  but  this  opinion  is  much  less  common 
than  formerly,  and  the  foreign  stocks  are  not  so  popular 
now  as  the  domestic  stocks.  As  a  rule,  nurserymen  who 
grow  trees  do  not  raise  apple  stocks.  Stock  growing  is 
largely  a  separate  business,  and  in  this  country  it  is  an 
important  industry  in  Kansas,  Nebraska,  Iowa,  and  other 
plains  states. 

The  chief  source  of  apple  seeds  at  the  present  time  is 
the  pomace  from  cider  mills.  The  "cheese"  of  pomace 
is  broken  up,  and  if  the  material  is  dry  enough  it  may  be 
run  through  a  large  sieve  to  remove  the  coarser  parts. 
The  seeds  are  then  removed  by  washing.  Various 
devices  are  in  use  for  washing  them  out.  They  all  pro- 
ceed upon  the  fact  that  the  pomace  will  rise  in  water  and 
the  seeds  sink.  Some  use  a  tub  or  common  tank,  which 
is  tilted  a  little  to  allow  the  water  to  flow  over  the  side. 
Others  employ  boxes  some  7  or  8  feet  long,  4  feet  wide 
and  a  foot  deep,  the  lower  end  of  which  is  only  n 
inches  deep  to  allow  the  escape  of  the  water.  This 


APPLE.  lyi 

Apple,  continued. 

box  is  set  upon  benches,  and  a  good  stream  of  water 
is  carried  into  it  at  the  upper  end.  A  bushel  or  two  of 
pomace  is  emptied  in  at  a  time,  and  it  is  broken  and 
stirred  with  a  fork  or  shovel.  When  the  seeds  are  liber- 
ated, they  fall  to  the  bottom  and  the  refuse  runs  over  the 
lower  end.  Another  box  is  provided  with  several  cleats, 
at  intervals  of  about  a  foot,  and  the  ends  are  left  open. 
The  box  is  set  at  an  angle,  and  the  seeds  are  caught 
behind  the  cleats.  Seeds  must  not  stand  long  in  the 
pomace  pile,  or  they  will  be  seriously  injured.  Nursery- 
men like  to  secure  the  pomace  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from 
the  press. 

As  soon  as  the  seeds  are  collected,  they  should  be 
spread  upon  tables  or  boards,  and  should  be  frequently 
turned  until  perfectly  dry.  They  may  then  be  stored  in 
boxes  in  slightly  damp  sand  or  sawdust,  or  in  powdered 
charcoal,  and  kept  in  a  cool  and  dry  place  until  spring. 
Or  if  they  are  to  be  sown  immediately,  they  need  not  be 
dried,  but  simply  mixed  with  enough  dry  sand  to  absorb 
the  water  so  as  to  make  them  easy  to  handle.  Seeds 
should  not  be  allowed  to  become  hard  and  dry  through 
long  exposure  to  the  air,  or  they  will  germinate  unevenly. 
Apple  seeds  procured  at  the  seed  stores  are  often  worth- 
less because  of  this  neglect.  Very  dry  seeds  can  some- 
times be  grown,  however,  by  subjecting  them  to  repeated 
soakings,  and  then  sprouting  in  a  gentle  hotbed  or  mild 
forcing-house.  Change  the  water  on  the  seeds  every  day, 
and  at  the  end  of  a  week  or  ten  days  mix  with  sand  and 
place  in  a  thin  layer  in  the  hotbed.  Stir  frequently  to  pre- 
vent molding.  When  the  seeds  begin  to  sprout,  sow  them 
in  the  open  ground.  This  operation,  which  is  sometimes 
called  pipping,  may  be  performed  in  a  small  way  near 
the  kitchen  stove.  Seeds  are  sometimes  "pipped"  be- 
tween moist  blankets.  (See  also  page  17.) 

When  sowing  is  done  in  the  fall,  the  seeds  may  be  sown 
in  the  pomace.  This  entails  extra  labor  in  sowing,  but  it 
saves  the  labor  of  washing.  This  practice  gives  good 
results  if  the  pomace  is  finely  broken,  and  it  is  now  com- 
mon among  nurserymen. 

In  loose  and  well-drained  soils,  sowing  is  undoubtedly 
best  performed  in  the  fall,  just  as  early  as  the  seeds  are 
ready.  But  upon  land  which  holds  much  water,  and 
which  heaves  with  frost  or  contains  much  clay,  spring 
sowing  is  preferable.  In  spring,  the  seeds  should  be  sown 
just  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked. 


172  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Apple,  continued. 

If  the  stocks  are  to  be  cultivated  with  a  horse,  the  rows 
should  be  3  or  3^  feet  apart.  Some  growers  sow  in  nar- 
row drills  and  some  in  broad  ones.  The  broad  drills  are 
usually  6  to  10  inches  wide.  The  earth  is  removed  to  the 
depth  of  2  or  3  inches,  if  it  is  loose  and  in  good  condition, 
the  seed  is  scattered  thinly  on  the  surface  and  the  earth 
hoed  back  over  them.  If  the  ground  is  likely  to  bake,  the 
seeds  should  not  be  sown  so  deep  ;  and  it  is  always  well, 
in  such  cases,  to  apply  some  very  light  and  clean  mulch. 
The  plants  should  be  well  cultivated  during  the  season, 
and  they  should  attain  a  height  of  6  to  12  inches  or  more 
the  first  year.  If  the  plants  come  thickly,  they  must  be 
thinned  out. 

In  the  fall  of  the  first  year  the  seedlings  should  be  large 
enough  to  be  dug  and  sold  to  general  nurserymen. 
Sometimes  the  poorest  plants  are  allowed  to  stand 
another  year,  but  they  are  usually  so  scattering  that  they 
do  not  pay  for  the  use  of  the  land,  and  they  should  be 
transplanted  the  same  as  the  larger  stock,  or  the  weakest 
ones  may  be  thrown  away.  The  stocks  are  dug  with  a 
plow  or  tree-digger  and  heeled-in  closely,  so  that  the 
leaves  ' '  sweat ' '  and  fall  off.  The  plants  are  then  stored 
in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust  in  a  cellar.  Before  they  are 
planted,  the  tops  are  cut  off  near  the  crown,  usually  with  a 
hatchet  on  a  block.  The  stocks  are  then  graded  into 
budding  and  grafting  sizes.  The  general  nurserymen  buy 
these  stocks  in  fall  or  early  winter.  Those  which  are  root- 
grafted  are  worked  during  late  winter,  but  those  intended 
for  budding,  or  which  must  be  grown  another  season 
before  they  attain  sufficient  size  for  working,  are 
heeled-in,  sometimes  being  "dressed"  (see  Chapter  V); 
in  the  spring  they  are  set  in  nursery  rows,  about  a  foot 
apart  in  the  row  (page  146).  The  nurseryman  reckons  the 
age  of  his  tree  from  the  top  or  graft,  rather  than  from  the 
time  the  seed  was  sown. 

Seedling  raising  is  usually  conducted  by  men  who  make 
it  a  business,  and  who  supply  the  general  nurserymen  of 
the  country.  It  is  largely  practiced  at  the  west,  where  the 
deep  and  strong  soils  produce  a  rapid  growth.  The  year- 
ling trees  are  graded  by  the  western  growers  into  about 
four  lots  :  "Extras,"  or  those  at  least  ^inch  in  diameter 
at  the  crown,  and  having  12  inches  of  both  top  and  root; 
these  are  used  mostly  as  budding  stocks  the  next  season. 
"  Commons,"  those  between  fV  ar>d  j^inch  at  the  crown, 
and  having  8  inches  of  root ;  these  are  used  for  immediate 


APPLE.  173 

Apple,  concluded. 

root- grafting.  ' '  Second-class, "  those  from  -fa  to  T3S  inch  at 
the  crown,  and  "third-class,"  or  all  those  under  T26.  The 
last  two  classes  must  be  grown  in  the  field  for  one  or  two 
seasons  before  they  can  be  worked  to  advantage. 

Dwarf  stocks  are  mostly  obtained  from  mound-layering. 
The  common  stock  for  dwarfing  is  the  Paradise  apple,  a 
dwarf  variety  of  the  common  apple  species  (Pyrus  Mains). 
This  variety  rarely  attains  a  height  of  more  than  4  feet. 
A  larger  or  freer  stock  is  the  Doucin,  also  a  variety  of 
Pyrus  Mains,  which  will  produce  an  engrafted  tree  inter- 
mediate in  size  between  that  given  by  the  Paradise  and 
free  or  common  stocks.  This  is  little  used  in  this  country. 
To  obtain  stools  for  mound-layering,  the  tree,  when  well 
established,  is  cut  off  within  4  or  6  inches  of  the  ground  in 
spring,  and  during  the  summer  several  shoots  or  sprouts 
will  arise.  The  next  year  the  stool  is  covered  by  a 
mound,  and  by  autumn  the  layers  are  ready  to  take  off. 
Sometimes,  when  stocks  are  rare,  mound-layering  is  per- 
formed during  the  first  summer,  before  the  young  shoots 
have  hardened,  but  good  stocks  are  not  obtained  by  this 
method.  Common  green  layering  is  sometimes  practiced 
the  first  year,  but  it  is  not  in  favor.  The  dwarf  stocks,  in 
common  with  all  apple  stocks,  may  be  sparingly  propa- 
gated by  root-cuttings  and  by  hard-wood  cuttings. 

Apple  stocks  are  either  grafted  or  budded.  Root-graft- 
ing is  the  most  common,  especially  at  the  west,  where  long 
cions  are  used  in  order  to  secure  own-rooted  trees.  (See 
Figs.  103,  104.)  Budding  is  gaining  in  favor  eastward 
and  southward  ;  it  is  performed  during  August  and  early 
September  in  the  northern  states,  or  it  may  be  begun  on 
strong  stocks  in  July  by  using  buds  which  have  been  kept 
on  ice.  Stocks  should  be  strong  enough  to  be  budded  the 
same  year  they  are  transplanted,  but  the  operation  is 
sometimes  deferred  until  the  second  summer.  Stocks 
which  cannot  be  worked  until  the  second  year  are  un- 
profitable, especially  on  valuable  land.  For  root-grafting, 
strong  one-year-old  roots  are  best,  but  two-year-olds  are 
often  used.  (See  pages  148  to  156.) 

In  common  practice,  the  root  is  cut  into  two  or  three 
pieces  of  2  to  3  inches  each,  but  stronger  trees  are  ob- 
tained, at  least  the  first  year  or  two,  by  using  the  whole 
root  and  grafting  upon  the  crown.  The  lowest  piece  is 
usually  small  and  weak,  and  is  generally  discarded. 

The  apple  is  easily  top-grafted  and  top-budded.  (See 
Chapter  V.  For  grades  of  trees,  see  page  142. ) 


174  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Apricot    (Prunus    Armeniaca,    P.    dasycarpa,    P.    Mume}. 
Rosacetz. 

The  apricot  thrives  upon  a  variety  of  stocks.  Apricot 
stocks  are  used  in  apricot-growing  regions,  especially  for 
deep  and  rich,  well-drained  soils.  The  pits  grow  readily  if 

fiven  the  same  treatment  as  that  detailed  for  the  peach 
which  see).  The  stocks  are  also  handled  in  the  same 
manner  as  peach  stocks.  Apricots  upon  apricot  roots  are 
not  largely  grown  outside  of  California,  in  this  country. 
Apricot  stocks  can  be  grown  from  root  cuttings  the  same 
as  cherries  and  other  stone  fruits. 

The  apricot  does  well  upon  the  peach,  especially  on 
light  soils.  In  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country  peach  is 
much  used. 

Plum  stocks  are  commonly  used  at  the  north,  especially 
if  the  trees  are  to  be  planted  in  moist  or  heavy  soils.  The 
common  plum  is  generally  used,  but  some  of  the  native 
plum  stocks  are  now  coming  into  favor,  especially  in 
trying  climates.  The  Russian  apricots,  which  are  a  hardy 
race  of  Prunus  Armeniaca,  are  grown  in  colder  climates 
than  the  common  varieties,  and  they  therefore  demand 
hardy  stocks.  Any  of  the  native  plums  make  good 
stocks,  but  the  Marianna  is  now  coming  into  especial 
prominence.  The  myrobolan  plum  can  be  used  for  all 
apricots,  but  it  is  not  popular,  particularly  in  severe 
climates.  (See  Bulletin  71,  Cornell  Experiment  Station.) 

The  almond,  both  hard  and  soft-shelled,  is  sometimes 
used  for  the  apricot,  but  the  union  is  likely  to  be  imperfect, 
and  it  is  not  recommended.  Almond-rooted  trees  are 
thought  to  be  best  adapted  to  light  soils. 

Varieties  of  apricots  are  usually  budded,  in  the  same 
way  as  the  peach,  although  they  may  be  side-grafted  at 
the  crown  in  the  nursery  row. 

Aquilegia  (Columbine,  Honeysuckle  erroneously).     Ranun- 

culacece. 

Increased  by  seeds.  They  must  be  sown  very  thinly, 
soon  after  being  ripe,  in  a  sandy  soil  or  in  pans  in  a  cold- 
frame.  Division  of  the  root  is  the  only  way  to  perpetuate 
any  particular  variety  with  certainty. 

Arabia  (Wall  Cress,  Rock  Cress)-.     Crucifera. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  the  border  or  in  pans,  in 
spring ;  by  divisions  of  the  root,  and  by  cuttings  placed 
in  a  shady  border  during  summer. 


ARACHIS — ARGEMONE.  175 

Arachis  (Pea-Nut,  Goober,  Ground-Nut).     Leguminos<z. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which,  for  greenhouses  or  cold 
climates,  should  be  sown  in  heat ;  and,  when  the  plants 
have  grown  to  a  sufficient  size,  they  should  be  potted  off 
singly.  The  peanut,  as  a  field  crop,  is  grown  from  seeds 
planted  where  the  crop  is  to  stand. 

Aralia,  Dimorphanthus.     Araliacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  root  cuttings ;  also  b> 
stem  cuttings,  in  heat.  See  Ginseng. 

Araucaria.     Conifer &. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  pans  or  boxes,  with  but 
gentle  heat.  By  cuttings  from  the  leading  shoots,  placed 
firmly  in  a  pot  of  sand ;  they  first  require  a  cool  place, 
but  afterwards  may  be  subjected  to  a  slight  warmth. 
When  rooted,  pot  off  into  fibrous  loam,  mixed  with  leaf 
soil  and  sand. 

Arbor-vitse.    See  Thuya. 

Arbutus  (Strawberry  Tree).     Ericacetz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  sand 
during  early  spring,  and  by  grafting,  budding  or  inarch- 
ing upon  A.  Unedo. 

Arbutus,  Trailing.     See  Epigaea. 

Ardisia.     Myrsinacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 

Areca  (Cabbage  Palm).     Palmacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  a  com- 
post of  loam,  peat  and  leaf  soil,  in  equal  parts,  with  a 
liberal  addition  of  sand,  and  placed  in  a  moist  and  gen- 
tle heat. 

Arenaria  (Sand wort).     Caryophyllacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings  ;  the  last  placed 
under  a  hand-glass  will  root  freely.  Seeds  should  be 
sown  in  spring  in  a  coldframe.  The  best  time  to  divide 
the  plant  is  early  spring,  or  during  July  and  August. 

Argemone.     Papaveracecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  outdoors  in 
spring,  those  of  the  rarer  species  in  a  hotbed. 


v 

176  THE    NURSERY   LIST. 

Argyreia  (Silver- weed).     Convolvulacetz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  will  do  well  in  sand, 
with  a  hand-glass  over  them,  in  a  little  bottom  heat. 

Arisaema.     Consult  Arum. 
Arisarum.     Aroidecz. 

Propagated  in  spring  by  seeds  or  divisions  of  the  root. 
Aristea.     Iridacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions. 
Aristolochia  (Brithwort).     Aristolochiacecs. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  layers,  which  are  not  very 
satisfactory.  Cuttings  of  tender  sorts  root  freely  in  sand, 
with  bottom  heat.  The  seeds  must  be  fresh. 

Armeria  (Thrift,  Sea  Pink).     Plumbaginacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  in  pots  of  sandy 
soil,  and  placed  in  a  coldframe ;  by  division,  separate 
pieces  being  planted  as  cuttings  under  hand-glasses. 

Arnebia.     Borraginacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  the  strong  shoots  should  be  in- 
serted in  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  gentle  heat. 

Arnica.     Composite. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  a  coldframe  in  spring, 
and  by  divisions,  which  should  be  made  in  spring. 

Arrow-root.     See  Calathea. 

Artabotrys.     Anonacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  and  in  the  north  by  cuttings  of 
ripened  wood,  placed  in  early  spring  in  sand  under  a 
frame,  with  bottom  heat.  Similar  treatment  to  Anona. 

Artemisia  (Mugwort,  Southernwood,  Wormwood).      Com- 
posites, 

The  annuals  by  seeds  ;  the  herbaceous  ones  by  divid- 
ing at  the  root ;  the  shrubby  kinds  by  cuttings. 

Arthrostemma.     Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  small,  firm  side  shoots, 
which  will  root,  in  April  or  August,  under  a  hand-glass 
in  sandy  soil. 

Artichoke  ( Cynara  Sc olymus ) .     Composites. 

Grown  from  seeds.      Although  the  plant  is  perennial. 


ARTICHOKE — ASCYRUM.  177 

a  new  stock  should  be  started  about  every  other  year. 
It  is  increased  also  by  suckers  or  divisions  of  the  stools. 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem  (Helianthus  tuberosus}.     Composite. 

Commonly  increased  by  means  of  the  tubers,  which 
may  be  planted  whole  or  cut  into  eyes,  after  the  manner 
of  potatoes.  Seeds  are  very  rarely  used. 

Artocarpus  (Bread  Fruit).      Urticacea. 

Propagation  is  difficult,  as  the  plant  is  grown  in  north- 
ern countries.  Suckers  may  be  utilized  when  procurable. 
The  young  and  slender  lateral  growths  are  used  for  cut- 
tings. 

Arum.    Aroidecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  but  usually  by  division  of  the 
roots,  the  best  time  being  just  as  they  begin  their  new 
growth,  securing  as  many  roots  as  possible  to  each  divi- 
sion. Any  rootless  pieces  should  be  placed  in  heat 
shortly  after  removal ;  this  hastens  the  formation  of  roots 
and  excites  top  growth.  Arisaemas  are  treated  in  the 
same  way. 

Arundinaria.     Graminece. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  root. 

Arundo  (Reed).     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions,  spring  being  the 
best  time  for  either  method.  In  early  autumn,  the  canes 
can  be  cut  into  lengths  of  18  to  24  inches  for  cuttings, 
and  partly  buried  in  sand  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat,  lay- 
ing them  horizontally. 

Asa  rum.     Aristolochiacece. 

Propagated  easily  by  divisions  in  spring. 

Asclepias  (Milkweed,  Silkweed).     Asclepiadacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  pots  in  spring,  pricked  out 
singly  when  large  enough,  and  treated  like  cuttings.  By 
cuttings,  which  should  be  secured  in  spring,  struck  in 
gentle  heat,  under  a  bell-glass,  and  as  soon  as  they  are 
well-rooted  potted  into  small  pots.  Seeds  of  A.  tuberosa 
must  be  sown  or  stratified  as  soon  as  gathered. 

Ascyrum.     Hypericacece •. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  careful  divisions  of  the 
roots  in  spring. 


7 


178  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Ash.     See  Fraxinus. 
Asimina.     Anonacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  The  seedlings  may  be  raised  in 
pots,  and  sheltered  carefully.  By  layers  made  in  autumn. 

Asparagus.     Liliacecs. 

The  common  kitchen-garden  asparagus  is  best  propa- 
gated by  means  of  seeds.  These  are  sown  in  spring  as 
soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  usually  in  rows  a  foot 
or  two  apart.  Thin  the  young  plants  to  2  or  3  inches 
apart  in  the  row  and  give  good  culture,  and  the  plants 
can  be  set  in  the  field  the  following  spring,  and  they  will 
give  a  fair  crop  after  growing  there  two  seasons.  Small 
growers  nearly  always  buy  plants  of  nurserymen.  Old 
asparagus  crowns  can  be  divided,  but  seeds  give  better 
plants. 

The  ornamental  species  of  asparagus  are  propagated 
by  seeds  when  they  are  obtainable  ;  otherwise,  by  divi- 
sion. See  Myrsiphyllum. 

Asperula.     Rubiacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  divisions  of  the  roots  dur- 
ing spring  and  early  summer. 

Asphodeline.     Liliacecs. 

Propagated  by  division. 
Asphodelus  (Asphodel).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division  of  the  root  in 
early  spring. 

Aspidistra.     Liliacecs. 

By  division  of  the  crowns,  or  by  suckers. 
Aspidium.     See  under  Ferns. 
Asplenium.    See  under  Ferns. 

Aster  (Aster,  Starwort,   Michaelmas   Daisy).      Composites. 
Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  or  by  root  divi- 
sions made  in  autumn  ;  also  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely 
in  sandy  soil  under  a  hand-glass,  with  little  heat.     For 
China  Aster,  see  Callistephus. 

Astilbe.     Saxifragacecs. 

Propagated  by  division  in  early  spring,  and  by  seeds 
if  they  are  produced. 


ASTRAGALUS — AUCUBA.  179 

Astragalus  (Milk  Vetch).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  pots  of  sandy  soil  placed  in  a 
coldframe,  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  early  in  the  spring,  as  they 
may  lie  a  long  time  before  germinating.  The  herbaceous 
perennials  also  increase  by  divisions,  and  the  shrubby 
kinds  slowly  by  means  of  cuttings  placed  in  a  coldframe. 

Astrocaryum,  Phoenicophorum.     Palmacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  a  hotbed  ;  or  by 
suckers,  if  obtainable. 

Astroloma.     Epacridacecs. 

Propagated  by  young  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  soil, 
under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  cool  house. 

Atalantia.     Rutacece. 

Propagated  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root  freely 
in  sandy  soil  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Atamasco  Lily.     See  Amaryllis. 

Atragene  (species  of  Clematis).     Ranunculacecz. 

Seeds  should  be  stratified,  and  sown  in  early  spring,  in 
gentle  heat.  By  layering  in  autumn  ;  the  layers  should 
not  be  separated  for  about  a  year,  when  they  will  be  vig- 
orous plants.  By  cuttings,  which  should  be  set  in  light 
soil  and  placed  under  a  hand-glass. 

Atriplcx.     See  Orach. 
Atropa  (Belladonna).     Solanacece. 
Seeds. 

7ubrietia.  Crucifercz. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  spring. 
In  early  autumn  carefully  transplant  to  a  cool,  shady  bor- 
der. Also  by  divisions.  Where  a  stock  of  old  plants 
exists,  layer  their  long,  slender  branches  any  time  after 
flowering,  and  cover  with  a  mixture  of  sand  and  leaf  soil ; 
they  will  then  root  freely  and  establish  themselves  in 
time  for  spring  blooming.  Cuttings  should  be  "drawn" 
or  grown  in  a  frame  until  they  are  soft,  before  they  are 
removed. 

cuba.     Cornacecz. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  ;  or 
by  cuttings,  inserted  in  spring  or  autumn  in  sandy  soil, 


l8o  THE   NURSERY   LIST. 

with  or  without  a  covering.      The  plant  is  tender  at  the 
north. 

Auricula  (Primula  Auricula}.     Primulacea. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  in  spring, 
in  well-drained  pots  filled  with  sandy  soil,  well  watered 
previous  to  sowing.  Cover  lightly  with  coarse  sand, 
place  a  pane  of  glass  over  the  pot,  and  place  the  latter  in 
a  hand-glass.  By  offsets,  which  should  be  removed  when 
top-dressed,  as  they  are  more  likely  to  root.  Arrange 
about  four  offsets  around  the  sides  of  well -drained  3-inch 
pots,  filled  with  sandy  soil,  place  under  a  bell-glass  or  in 
a  close  hand-light,  and  water  very  sparingly  so  as  to  pre- 
vent them  damping  off. 

Australian  Feather-palm.    See  Ptychosperma. 
Averrhoa.     Geraniacece. 

Increased  in  spring  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  which  will 
root  in  sand,  under  a  hand-glass,  with  bottom  heat. 

Azalea.     Ericacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  early  the 
following  spring,  in  a  large,  shallow  frame  containing 
from  2  to  3  inches  of  peat,  over  which  more  peat  must  be 
spread  by  means  of  a  fine  sieve ;  do  not  cover,  but  water 
thoroughly.  Live  sphagnum  also  makes  an  excellent 
soil.  When  the  seedlings  begin  to  appear  they  should 
have  air,  shade,  and  a  daily  sprinkling  of  water;  trans- 
plant in  autumn  in  boxes  of  peat  and  coarse  sand,  water, 
shade,  and  keep  close  until  growth  commences.  Graft- 
ing is  largely  practiced  to  increase  the  stock  of  named 
varieties  or  choice  seedlings,  the  stock  most  employed 
being  A.  Pontica  for  hardy  sorts,  and  some  strong-grow- 
ing variety  of  A.  Indica,  like  Phoenicia,  for  tender  ones. 
Layering  in  spring,  enclosing  the  part  buried  with  moss, 
is  also  practiced  ;  but  the  layer  must  be  left  two  years 
before  separating.  Cuttings  of  A.  Indica  made  of  the 
hardened  wood  2  or  3  inches  long,  taken  with  or  with- 
out a  heel,  root  readily  in  sand;  about  the  end  of  sum- 
mer is  the  best  time.  When  placed  outside  they  should 
be  covered  with  a  hand-light  for  about  two  months,  and 
at  the  end  of  that  time  air  should  be  given  freely.  See 
Rhododendron. 

Babiana.     Iridacece. 

Propagated  quickly  by  seeds  sown  in  pans,  placed  in  a 
gentle  heat.  These  will  grow  at  almost  any  time.  The 


BACKHOUSIA — BAMBUS'A.  l8l 

$. 

young  plants  will  require  to  be  carefully  transplanted 
each  season  until  they  develop  into  blooming  corms.  By 
offsets  grown  in  boxes  or  planted  out  in  light,  rich  soil 
until  large  enough  for  flowering. 

Backhousia.     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  in  sand,  under  a 
bell-glass,  in  a  cool  house,  during  spring. 

Bactris.     Palmacece. 

Increased  by  suckers,  which  are  very  easily  produced. 

Bcea,  Dorcoceras.     Gesneracece. 
Propagated  easily  by  seeds. 

Bseckea.     Myrtacete. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  which  will  root 
freely  if  placed  in  a  pot  of  sand,  with  a  bell-glass  over 
them,  in  a  cool  house. 

Bald-Cypress.    See  Taxodium. 

Balm  (Melissa  officinalis^.     Labiates. 

Seeds  sown  outdoors  in  spring.     Division. 

Balsam    (Impatiens  Balsamina,   I.     Sultani,    etc.).       Gera- 

niacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring,  in  pans  of  rich, 
sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat  of  about 
65°.  Or  the  seeds  may  be  sown  directly  in  the  garden 
when  the  weather  becomes  warm.  Varieties  increased  by- 
layers  in  late  summer,  under  glass,  or  by  veneer-grafting ; 
also  by  cuttings.  /  Sultani  is  better  raised  from  seeds 
than  from  cuttings.  The  stove  species  are  multiplied  by 
seeds,  or  cuttings  in  close  frames. 

Balsamodendron.     Burseracece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  taken  from  the  ripe  young  wood, 
in  spring,  and  placed  under  a  hand-glass,  in  bottom  heat. 

Balsam-tree.     See  Clusia. 

Bambusa  (Bamboo).     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  careful  division  of  well-developed  plants, 
in  early  spring,  just  as  new  growth  is  commencing  ;  estab- 
lish the  divisions  in  pots.      If  young  shoots  are  layered, 
leave  only  the  end  exposed. 
M 


l82  \THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Banana  and  Plantain  (Musa  sapientum,  M.  paradisiaca  and 

others).     Scitaminece. 

Edible  bananas  rarely  produce  seeds.  The  young 
plants  are  obtained  from  suckers,  which  spring  from  the 
main  rootstock.  These  suckers  are  transplanted  when 
2  or  3  feet  high.  These  plants  themselves  do  not  produce 
so  good  crops  as  the  suckers  which  arise  from  them,  and 
are  not  transplanted.  Two  or  three  suckers  are  sufficient 
for  a  plant  at  a  time ;  what  others  arise  should  be  trans- 
planted or  destroyed.  The  suckers  should  be  set  deep, 
as  low  as  two  feet  for  best  results.  In  fifteen  or  eighteen 
months  the  plants  will  bloom,  if  they  have  had  good  care. 
The  stem  bears  fruit  but  once,  but  new  stems  arise  to  take 
its  place.  See  Musa. 

Baneberry.    See  Actsea. 

Banksia.     Proteacecz. 

Seeds  are  very  unsatisfactory.  Propagated  by  well- 
ripened  cuttings  taken  off  at  a  joint,  and  placed  in  pots  of 
sand  without  shortening  any  of  the  leaves,  except  on  the 
part  that  is  planted  in  the  sand,  where  they  should  be 
taken  off  quite  close.  The  less  depth  the  better,  so  long 
as  they  stand  firm.  Place  them  under  hand-glasses  in  a 
propagating  house,  but  do  not  plunge  them  in  heat. 

Baptisia.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  sand  and 
leaf  mold  in  the  open,  or  in  pots  placed  in  a  coldframe. 
By  divisions. 

Barbadoes  Gooseberry.     See  Pereskia. 

Barbarea   (Winter  Cress,  American  Cress,  Upland   Cress). 

Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds  (chiefly),  divisions,  suckers  and  cut- 
tings. 

Barberry  (Berberis  vulgaris,  etc.).     Berberidacece. 

Propagated  by  stratified  seeds,  or  by  suckers,  layers  and 
cuttings  of  mature  wood.  Layers  are  usually  allowed  to 
remain  two  years.  Rare  sorts  are  sometimes  grafted  on 
common  stocks. 

Barkeria  (species  of  Epidendrum).     Orchidacecs . 

Propagated  by  divisions  made  just  before  new  growth 
commences.  See  under  Orchids. 


BARLERIA BEEFWOOD.  183 

•/'- 

Barleria.    Acanthacecs. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  made  of  the  young  wood,  and 
placed  in  a  compost  of  loam  and  peat  with  a  little  rotten 
dung,  under  a  bell  glass,  in  stove  temperature  with  bottom 
heat. 

Barrenwort.     See  Epimedium. 
Bartonia  aurea.     See  Mentzelia. 

Basil  ( Ocymum  Basilicum  and  O.  minimum).     Labiates. 
Seeds,  sown  in  a  hotbed  or  outdoors. 

Basswood.     See  Tilia. 

Batatas.    See  Ipomaea  and  Sweet  Potato. 

Batemannla.     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  divisions  and  offsets. 
Bauhinia  (Mountain  Ebony).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  taken  when 
the  wood  is  neither  very  ripe  nor  very  young.  The  leaves 
must  be  dressed  off,  and  the  cuttings  planted  in  sand 
under  a  glass  in  moist  heat.  Also  by  seeds. 

Bayberry.     See  Myrica. 

Bean.     Leguminoscz. 

Seeds  ;  sow  only  after  the  weather  is  thoroughly  settled 
for  outdoor  culture.  Lima  beans  should  not  be  sown  till 
a  week  or  ten  days  after  it  is  safe  to  sow  the  common 
kinds. 

Bean  Caper.     See  Zygophyllum. 

Bean,  Sacred  or  Water.     See  Nelumbo  and  Nymphsea. 

Bear's  Grass.    See  Yucca. 

Beaucarnea.     Liliacecz. 

Increased  chiefly  by  seeds,  which  have  been  imported 
from  their  native  country.  By  cuttings,  when  obtainable. 

Beaufortia.     Myrtacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  ;  place  in 
a  sandy  soil  under  a  glass,  with  very  little  heat. 

Beech.     See  Fagus. 

Beef  wood.    See  Casuarina. 


184  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Beet  (Beta  vulgaris}.     Chenopodiacecz. 

Seeds,  sown  very  early,  before  frosts  cease  for  the  early 
crop. 

Befaria.     Ericacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  placed  in  sandy 
soil,  in  gentle  heat. 

Begonia.     Begoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  well  ripened  before  they  are  gath- 
ered, and  kept  very  dry  until  sown.  For  the  successful 
raising  of  begonias,  it  is  necessary  to  sow  the  seeds  in 
pans  or  pots  of  well-drained,  light,  sandy  soil,  which 
should  be  well  watered  before  the  seeds  are  sown.  The 
seeds  should  not  be  covered  with  soil,  or  they  may  fail  to 
germinate.  Place  a  pane  of  glass  over  the  pans  (Fig.  2), 
and  set  in  a  warm  house  or  frame,  where  a  temperature 
of  about  65°  can  be  maintained,  and  shade  from  the  sun. 
As  soon  as  the  plants  are  large  enough  they  should  be 
pricked  off  into  pans  of  light  leaf-mold  soil,  in  which 
they  may  remain  until  large  enough  to  be  placed  singly 
in  pots. 

By  divisions  of  the  rhizomes.  Also  increased  by  cut- 
tings, which  strike  freely  in  pots  of  sand  and  leaf-mold, 
and  placed  on  a  bottom  heat  of  about  70°.  Where  large 
quantities  are  required,  a  bed  of  cocoanut  fiber  in  a  stove 
or  propagating-frame  may  be  used,  and  in  this  the  cut- 
tings may  be  planted,  and  remain  until  well  rooted.  Leaf 
cuttings  of  the  Rex  or  foliage  types  are  in  common  use. 
They  succeed  best  when  laid  on  sand  or  cocoanut  fiber, 
and  shaded  from  bright  sunlight.  Select  old,  well-ma- 
tured leaves,  and  make  an  incision  with  a  sharp  knife 
across  the  principal  nerves,  on  the  under  side.  They 
should  then  be  placed  on  the  sand  or  fiber,  and  held 
down  by  means  of  a  few  pieces  of  crock.  Under  this 
treatment  plantlets  will  form  on  the  lower  ends  of  the 
nerves  of  each  section  of  the  leaf,  and  these,  when  large 
enough,  may  be  removed  from  the  bed  and  potted. 
Fan-shaped  pieces  of  leaves  are  often  used.  Leaf  cut- 
tings of  begonia  are  described  and  figured  in  Chapter  IV. 
(Figs.  78,  79,  80.)  Species  like  B.  diversifolia,  etc.,  may 
be  propagated  by  the  tubers  which  form  in  the  axils  of 
the  leaves.  B.  phyllomaniaca  produces  plantlets  on  the 
leaves  and  stems,  and  these  may  be  removed  and  han- 
dled like  small  seedlings. 

Tuberous  Begonias  (By  E.  G.  Lodeman).  —  Tuberous 


BEGONIA BENTHAMIA.  185 

Begonia,  continued. 

species  may  be  propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings,  and  by 
divisions  of  the  tubers.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  early 
in  spring,  and  the  seedlings  pricked  off  and  shifted  as 
described  for  the  evergreen  or  shrubby  sections.  Cut- 
tings of  the  young,  rapidly-growing  shoots,  if  taken  as 
soon  as  the  plants  are  4  to  6  inches  high,  will  form  good 
tubers  by  fall.  Cuttings  made  while  the  plants  are  in 
flower  rarely  produce  tubers  of  much  value  ;  B.  Bolivien- 
sis,  B.  Sedeni.and  B.  Veitchii  are  particularly  apt  to  fail 
in  this  respect.  The  cuttings  should  be  from  2  to  4 
inches  in  length,  the  lower  cut  being  just  beneath  a 
joint ;  remove  one  or  two  of  the  lowest  leaves  and  insert 
singly  near  the  edge  of  thumb-pots  filled  with  a  soil  com- 
posed of  about  equal  parts  sand,  leaf-mold  and  loam. 
Place  in  a  cool,  shaded  position,  applying  water  only  to 
prevent  flagging.  Dividing  the  tubers  is  an  unsatisfac- 
tory method  of  propagation,  except  in  the  case  of  B. 
Socotrana.  The  tubers  should  be  cut  before  active 
growth  begins,  so  that  each  part  shall  have  an  eye  or 
crown.  They  are  then  treated  as  separate  tubers.  Be- 
gonias which  have  not  been  improved  are  most  easily 
and  rapidly  propagated  from  seed  ;  the  named  or  im- 
proved varieties  are  best  increased  by  cuttings. 

Belamcanda,  including   Pardanthus  (Blackberry  Lily).     Iri- 

dacecs. 

Seeds,  division,  and  cuttings  of  young  growth.  The 
Blackberry  Lily  (B.  Chinensis]  propagates  freely  by  divi- 
sion and  by  seeds. 

Bellflower.     See  Campanula. 

Bellis  (Daisy).     Composite. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  early 
spring.  By  division  after  flowering,  each  crown  making 
a  separate  plant.  The  soil  must  be  pressed  firmly  about 
them. 

Bellwort.     See  Uvularia. 
Bengal  Quince.     See  ^Egle. 
Bent  Grass.     See  Agrostis. 
Benthamia.     Cornacetz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  when  ripe  in  a  cool  house,  or 

by  layering  in  autumn.     By  cuttings,  and  by  grafting  on 

the  dogwood. 


l86  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Benzoin.     See  Lindera. 
Berberidopsis.     Berberidace<z. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring,  by  layering  in  autumn, 
or  by  young  cuttings  in  spring. 

Berberis.     See  Barberry. 
Berchemia.     Rhamnacecs. 

Propagated  by  layering  the  young  shoots.  By  ripened 
cuttings,  and  slips  of  the  roots  planted  under  glass. 

Bertolonia.     Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 
Bessera.     Liliacecz. 

Propagated  by  offsets. 
Betonica.     See  Stachys. 

Betula  (Birch).     Cupulifercz, 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  must  be  sown  as  soon  as 
gathered,  or  else  stratified.  By  grafting  or  budding  upon 
seedling  ^stocks  of  the  common  kinds  ;  the  former  should 
be  done  in  spring  or  late  winter,  and  the  latter  in  summer 
when  the  buds  are  ready.  Cion-budding  (Fig.  115)  is  a 
good  method. 

Bignonia  (Trumpet  Flower).     Bignoniacecc. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  layering,  or,  in  early  spring,  by 
cuttings  made  from  good  strong  shoots,  with  two  or  three 
joints.  Place  cuttings  of  tender  sorts  in  a  well-drained 
pot  of  sandy  soil,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  bottom  heat. 
Also  by  seeds.  B.  radicans  propagates  readily  from  root 
cuttings. 

Billardiera  (Apple  Berry).     Pittosporacecc. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  pot  of 
sandy  soil,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  gentle  heat. 

Billbergia.     Bromeliac&cz . 

Propagated  by  suckers,  which  are  taken  from  the  base 
of  the  plant  after  flowering,  when  they  have  attained  a 
good  size.  The  best  method  to  adopt  is  as  follows  :  Hold 
the  sucker  in  the  hand  and  gently  twist  it  off  the  stem  ; 
next,  trim  the  base  by  the  removal  of  a  few  of  the  lower 
leaves,  and  then  insert  each  sucker  separately  in  a  small 
pot,  in  sharp  soil.  A  bottom  heat  of  about  80°  will 


BILLBERRY BLADDER-NUT.  187 

greatly  facilitate  new  root  growth  ;  failing  this,  they  will 
root  freely  in  the  temperature  of  a  stove,  if  placed  in  a 
shaded  position  for  two  or  three  weeks,  after  which  they 
will  bear  increased  light  and  sunshine  during  the  latter 
part  of  the  day. 

Billberry.    See  Vaccinium. 

Biota.    See  Thuya. 

Birch.    See  Betula. 

Birthwort.    See  Aristolochia. 

Bitter  Sweet.     See  Celastrus  and  Solanum. 

Blackberry  (Rubus  villosus  and  vars. ).     Rosacetz. 

New  varieties  are  obtained  from  seeds,  which  may  be 
sown  as  soon  as  they  are  cleaned  from  the  ripe  fruit,  or 
which  may  be  stratified  until  the  next  spring.  If  the  soil 
is  in  prime  condition,  fall  sowing  is  preferable. 

Varieties  are  multiplied  by  suckers  and  by  root  cuttings. 
The  suckers  spring  up  freely  about  the  old  plants,  espe- 
cially if  the  roots  are  broken  by  the  cultivator ;  but  they 
have  few  fibrous  roots,  and  are  inferior.  The  best  plants 
are  obtained  from  root  cuttings  (Fig.  62).  Roots  from 
one-fourth  to  three-eighths  inch  in  diameter  are  selected 
for  this  purpose.  The  roots  are  dug  in  the  fall,  cut  into 
pieces  an  inch  or  two  long,  and  stored  until  early  spring. 
They  may  be  buried  in  boxes  of  sand  after  the  manner  of 
stratified  seeds,  or  stored  in  a  cool  cellar  ;  callusing  pro- 
ceeds mos  rapidly  in  a  cellar.  The  pieces  are  planted 
horizontally  an  inch  or  two  deep,  in  loose,  rich  soil.  It  is 
best  to  put  them  in  a  frame  and  give  them  slight  bottom 
heat,  although  they  will  grow  if  planted  in  the  open  in 
April  or  May,  but  the  plants  will  make  much  less  growth 
the  first  season.  Some  varieties  do  not  strike  quickly 
without  bottom  heat.  When  the  variety  is  scarce,  shorter 
and  slenderer  pieces  of  root  may  be  used,  but  these  de- 
mand bottom  heat.  The  heat  in  the  frames  is  usually  sup- 
plied by  manure,  or  the  heat  of  the  sun  under  the  glass 
may  be  sufficient.  In  these  frames  the  cuttings  may  be 
started  in  the  north  late  in  March,  or  some  six  or  eight 
weeks  before  the  plants  can  be  set  out-doors  without  pro- 
tection. When  the  weather  has  become  somewhat  set- 
tled, the  plants  may  be  planted  out,  and  by  fall  they  will 
be  2  to  3  feet  high.  See  Dewberry. 

Bladder-nut.     See  Staphylea. 


l88  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Bladder  Senna.    See  Colutea. 
Blandfordia.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  offsets,  or  by  division  of  the 
old  plants,  which  must  be  done  when  repotting. 

Blazing  Star.    See  Liatris. 
Bleeding  Heart.    See  Dicentra. 

Bletia.     Orchidacea : 

Propagated  by  divisions,  which  should  be  made  after 
the  plants  have  finished  flowering,  or  previous  to  their 
starting  into  growth.  These  are  terrestrial,  and  their 
flat,  roundish  pseudo-bulbs  are  usually  under  ground. 
They  bear  division  well,  especially  B.  hyacinthina,  which 
may  be  cut  up  into  pieces  consisting  of  a  single  pseudo- 
bulb.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Blood  Flower.    See  Haemanthus. 

Blood-root.     See  Sanguinaria  and  Haemodorum. 

Blueberry.     See  Vaccinium. 

Blue-eyed  Grass.     See  Sisyrinchium. 

Blumenbachia.     Loasacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  pots  in  spring,  and  placed 
in  a  gentle  heat. 

Bocconia.     Papaveracecz . 

Some  species  grow  well  from  seed.  By  young  suckers, 
taken  from  established  plants  during  summer.  Cuttings 
taken  from  the  axils  of  the  large  leaves  during  early  sum- 
mer push  freely,  so  that  they  will  have  plenty  of  roots 
before  winter  sets  in.  Root  cuttings  of  B.  cor  data  strike 
freely. 

Boltonia.     Composite. 

Increased  by  divisions  of  the  root  in  spring.     Seeds. 

Bomarea.    Amaryllidacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  a  warm 
house.  Also  increased  by  careful  division  of  the  under- 
ground stem.  In  making  a  division,  it  is  necessary  to 
observe  that  the  part  taken  has  some  roots  by  which  to 
live  till  new  ones  are  formed. 


BOMBAX BOUSSINGAULTIA.  189 

Bombax  (Silk  Cotton  Tree).     Malvacetz. 

Plants  raised  from  seeds  brought  from  their  native  hab- 
itats make  the  best  trees.  Increased  by  cuttings,  which 
will  root  readily  if  not  too  ripe.  They  should  be  taken 
off  at  a  joint,  and  placed  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  in 
moist  heat. 

Borago.     Borraginacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  from  spring  to  autumn  in 
any  good  garden  soil.  Also  by  divisions  in  spring,  or 
by  striking  cuttings  in  a  coldframe. 

Borassus.     Palmacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  strong  bottom  heat. 
Boronia.     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  seed.  By  young  cuttings,  or  those  made 
from  half-ripened  wood.  Place  these  in  a  thoroughly 
drained  pot  of  sandy  soil,  with  one  inch  of  sand  on  the 
surface,  and  cover  with  a  bell-glass. 

Borreria.     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings.  Those  of  the  perennial  kinds 
strike  root  readily  in  a  light  soil,  in  heat.  The  annual 
kinds  require  a  similar  treatment  to  other  tender  annuals. 

Boston  Ivy,  and  Boston  Vine.     See  Ampelopsis  and  Myrsi- 
phyllum. 

Boswellia  (Olibanum  Tree).     Burseracetz . 

Increased  easily  by  cuttings  in  sand  under  a  glass. 
Botrychium.     See  Ferns. 

Bouchea.     Verbenacecz. 

Increased  during  spring  by  cuttings,  placed  in  sand 
under  a  glass  and  in  a  gentle  heat. 

Bougainvillea.     Nyctaginacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  from  the  half-ripened  wood. 
Place  in  sandy  soil,  in  a  brisk  heat.  Also  grown  from 
root  cuttings. 

Bouncing  Bet.    See  Saponaria. 

Boussingaultia  (  Madeira  Vine ).     Chenopodiacea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  easily  by  means  of  the  tuber- 
ties  of  the  stem.  Also  by  the  tubers. 


IQO  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Bouvardia.     Rubiaceez. 

Generally  propagated  by  root  cuttings,  which  strike 
readily.  Cuttings  of  shoots  will  also  grow,  if  struck  in 
heat. 

Bowiea.     Liliacetz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  offsets. 
Box  Elder.    See  Negundo. 
Box  Thorn.    See  Lycium. 
Box  Tree.    See  Buxus. 

Brachycome  (Swan  River  Daisy).     Composites. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring,  in  a  gentle 
hotbed,  or  they  may  be  sown  thinly  outdoors,  late  in 
spring. 

Brahea.     Palmacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  heat. 

Brassia.     Orchidacecs. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  plant  when  growth  has  com- 
menced. (See  under  Orchids. ) 

Bravoa.     Amaryllidacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  by  off- 
sets in  autumn. 

Bread  Fruit.    See  Artocarpus. 
Bread  Nut.     See  Brosimum. 

Bredia.    Melastomacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  from  the  ripened 
shoots  placed  in  sandy  loam,  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Briza  (Quaking  Grass).     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  in 
autumn. 

Broccoli.    See  Cabbage. 

Brodiaea.    Liliacece. 

Increased  by  offsets,  which  should  be  left  undisturbed 
with  the  parent  bulbs  till  they  reach  a  flowering  state, 
when  they  may  be  divided  and  planted  in  autumn. 


BROMELIA BRUNFELSIA.  IQI 

Bromelia.     Bromeliacecz. 

Some  are  propagated  by  seeds.  All  by  cuttings  in- 
serted in  sand,  in  heat. 

Bromus.     Graminece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  outside  in  late  summer  or  in 
spring,  thinning  out  when  necessary. 

Brongniartia.     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  which,  if 
firm  at  the  base,  will  root  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a 
cool  house. 

Brosimum  (Bread  Nut).     Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  with  their  leaves 
on.  Place  in  sand  in  moist  heat. 

Broughtonia.     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  plant.     (See  under  Orchids. ) 

Broussonetia  (Paper  Mulberry).     Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  when  ripe  or  kept  till  the 
following  spring ;  and  by  suckers  and  cuttings  of  ripened 
wood,  in  a  cool  house. 

Browallia.     Scrophulariacecz . 

Seeds.  To  have  blooming  plants  for  the  holidays,  they 
are  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  late  summer  in  pans  or 
pots  of  light,  rich,  sandy  soil,  and  kept  in  a  close  frame  or 
hand-light,  where  they  can  be  shaded  till  germination 
takes  place. 

Brownea.    Leguminosa. 

Increased  by  cuttings  from  the  ripened  wood  ;  place  in 
sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  moist  heat. 

Brucea.     Simarubacecz. 

Increased  by  cuttings  from  ripened  wood,  which  will 
root  freely  in  a  pot  of  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  mod- 
erate heat. 

Brugmansia.    See  Datura. 

Brunfelsia,  Franciscea.     Scrophulariace<z. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  under  a  bell-glass 
in  moderate  heat.  When  rooted,  place  in  pots  with  a 
compost  of  loam,  leaf-soil,  peat  and  sand, 


IQ2  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Brunsvigia.     Amaryllidacecs. 

Increased  by  offsets  of  considerable  size.  They  should 
be  potted  carefully  in  a  mixture  of  sandy  loam  and  peat, 
with  good  drainage,  and  kept  tolerably  warm  and  close 
until  established  ;  water  sparingly  until  root  action  has 
commenced.  The  best  place  for  growing  the  offsets  into 
a  flowering  size  is  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass,  in  a  tempera- 
ture of  from  50°  to  55°. 

Brussels  Sprouts.     See  Cabbage. 

Bryonia.     Cucurbitacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  of  the  tuber.  Cut- 
tings of  the  shoots  will  also  strike  (but  with  difficulty)  in 
water. 

Bryophyllum.     Crassulactz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  ;  or  by  simply  laying  the  leaf  on 
moist  sand  or  moss,  and  at  the  indentations  upon  the  mar- 
gin plantlets  will  appear.  (See  Fig.  77. ) 

Buceras.    See  Terminalia. 

Buckbean.     See  Menyanthes. 

Buckeye.    See  ^sculus. 

Bucklandia.     Hamamelidece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  placed  in  sandy 
loam  under  a  hand-glass,  in  moderate  heat.  Water  care- 
fully, for  they  are  liable  to  rot  off. 

Buckthorn.     See  Rhamnus. 

Buckwheat    {Fagopyrum    esculentum   and   F.    Tataricum ) . 

Polygonacece. 
Propagated  by  seeds. 
Buffalo  Berry.    See  Shepherdia. 
Bugwort.     See  Cimicifuga. 
Bulbine.     Liliacecs. 

The  bulbous  rooted  species  by  offsets,  and  the  herba- 
ceous sorts  by  suckers  and  divisions.  Also  by  cuttings. 

Bulbocodium.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  offsets  in  a  rich,  sandy  loam.  Take  up  the 
bulbs,  divide  and  replant  them  every  second  year,  hand- 
ling in  autumn  and  renewing  the  soil  or  planting  in  new 
positions* 


BULBOPHYLLUM BUXUS.  IQ3 

Bulbophyllum,  Anisopetalum.     Orchidacecs. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  pseudo-bulbs. 
Bullrush.     See  Typha  and  Juncus. 
Bupleurum  (Hare's  Ear).     Umbellifercs '. 

The  annuals  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  outdoors  ;  the 
herbaceous  perennials  may  be  increased  by  divisions 
made  in  autumn  or  spring,  and  the  greenhouse  species  by 
cuttings  made  in  spring. 

Burchardia.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  offsets  or  divisions  made  just  previous  to 
potting  in  spring.  It  is  best  to  repot  annually.  Good 
drainage  should  be  allowed,  and  the  plant  must  not  be 
potted  too  firmly. 

Burchellia.     Rubiacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  not  too  ripe,  planted  in  sand  and 
placed  under  a  hand-glass,  in  a  gentle  heat. 

Burlingtonia.     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  plant.     (See  under  Orchids.) 
Burnet,  or  Poterium  (Sanguisorba}.     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division. 
Burning  Bush.     See  Euonymus. 

Bursera.     Burseracece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  placed  under  a  bell-glass,  with 
bottom  heat. 

Butcher's  Broom.     See  Ruscus. 

Butomus  (Flowering  Rush).     Alismacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  of  the  roots  in  spring. 
Buttercup.     See  Ranunculus. 
Butternut.     See  Juglans. 
Butterwort.    See   Pinguicula. 
Buttonwood.     See  Platanus. 

Buxus  (Box).     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  any  light, 
well-drained  soil.  They  can  be  increased  by  suckers  and 
divisions  ;  by  layers  of  young  or  old  wood,  made  in  au- 
tumn or  early  spring ;  by  cuttings  made  of  the  young 


IQ4  THE    NURSERY     LIST. 

shoots,  from  4  to  6  inches  in  length,  in  a  sandy  place  in 
spring  or  fall.  The  latter  method  is  the  better  way  in  this 
country,  and  in  the  north  the  cuttings  should  be  handled 
under  glass. 

Byrsonima.     Malpighiacecz, 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand 
under  a  hand-glass,  in  moist  bottom  heat. 

Cabbage  (Brassica  oleracea,  and  vars. ).     Crucifercs. 

Seeds.  They  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  in 
spring,  or  in  the  fall  and  the  young  plants  wintered  in  a 
coldframe,  or  in  a  hotbed  or  forcing  house  in  late  winter 
or  spring.  Brussels  sprouts,  broccoli  and  cauliflower  are 
treated  in  the  same  manner. 

Cabbage  Palm.     See  Areca. 
Cabomba.     Nymphceacece. 

Propagated  by  root  divisions  ;  also  seeds.  See  Nym- 
phaea. 

Cacalia.     See  Senecio. 
Cacao.     See  Theobroma. 

Cactus.     Cactacece. 

Propagation  by  seeds  is  not  often  adopted,  as  it  is  a 
very  slow  method.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  very 
sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  a  semi-shady  position  until  ger- 
mination commences,  when  they  may  be  exposed  and 
very  carefully  watered.  Usually  propagated  by  cuttings 
or  offsets,  which  should  be  made  with  a  sharp  cut,  and 
laid  upon  a  sunny  shelf  or  on  dry  sand  until  the  wound  is 
healed  and  roots  emitted,  when  they  should  be  potted 
in  sandy  soil.  Place  in  a  bench  and  keep  syringed. 
Some  of  the  less  fleshy  types  may  not  require  this  prelimi- 
nary "curing"  or  drying.  A  cereus  cutting  is  shown  in 
Fig.  72.  (For  an  elaborate  account  of  the  propagation  of 
cacti  by  cuttings,  see  Arloing,  Ann.  des  Sci.  Nat.  6th  Ser. 
iv.  pp.  5  to  61,  with  plates,  1876.)  Grafting  is  resorted 
to  with  weak  kinds,  which  will  not  grow  freely  except 
upon  the  stock  of  a  stronger  species  ;  and  by  this  means, 
also,  such  kinds  can  be  kept  from  the  damp  soil,  which 
frequently  causes  decay.  The  stocks  usually  employed 
are  those  of  Cereus  tortuosus,  C.  Peruvianus,  Pereskia 
aculeata,  etc.,  according  to  the  species  intended  for  work- 
ing ;  they  readily  unite  with  each  other.  If  the  cion  and 


. 

C^SALPINIA CALANTHE. 

stock  are  both  slender,  cleft-grafting  should  be  adopted ; 
if  both  are  broad  it  is  best  to  make  horizontal  sections, 
placing  them  together  and  securing  in  proper  position  by 
tying  with  raffia,  but  not  too  tightly,  or  the  surface  may 
be  injured.  See  Fig.  134. 

Caesalpinia.     Leguminoscz. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  are  somewhat  difficult  to 
root  but  may  succeed  if  taken  from  the  plant  in  a  grow- 
ing state  and  planted  in  sand  with  a  hand-glass  over 
them  in  heat. 

Ca  janus,     Leguminoscz. 

Plants  are  usually  raised  from  seeds  obtained  from  the 
West  Indian  Islands  and  India.  Also  grown  from  young 
cuttings,  put  in  sand  with  a  hand-glass  over  them,  in  heat. 

Caladium.    Aroidecz. 

Increased  by  tubers,  which  have  been  kept  dry  or  rested 
for  some  time.  Place  in  small  pots  in  a  stove  or  pit, 
where  the  night  temperature  is  maintained  at  from  60° 
to  65°,  and  syringed  daily  once  or  twice  at  least.  Large 
tubers,  if  sound,  may  be  divided  and  the  pieces  potted. 
Some  also  by  cuttings.  Taro  is  the  tuberous  roots  of  C. 
esculentum. 

Calamagrostis.     Graminecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  spring.  C.  are- 
naria  (now  Ammophila  arundinacea] ,  used  for  holding 
sands  along  seashores,  is  propagated  by  division,  and  can 
probably  be  handled  easily  by  root  cuttings. 

Calamintha.     Labiate. 

Increased  by  seeds,  root  divisions,  or  cuttings  in  spring. 

Calamus.     Palmacecz. 
Increased  by  seeds. 

Calandrinia.     Portulacacece . 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  pots  where  they  are  in- 
tended to  flower,  as  transplantation,  unless  performed 
with  more  than  ordinary  care,  will  check  their  growth  or 
result  in  loss. 

Calanthe.     Orchidacetz. 

As  a  rule,  the  natural  annual  increase  in  the  number  of 
pseudo-bulbs  meets  the  requirements  of  most  cultivators. 


lg6  THE    NURSERY   LIST. 

Where  a  quick  propagation  is  desired,  it  may  be  per- 
formed by  dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs  transversely  ;  after 
allowing  the  raw  surface  to  callus,  the  upper  part  should 
be  set  on  moist  sand,  and  several  buds  will  form  around 
the  base.  The  bottom  portion  may  be  used  in  the  ordi- 
nary way.  Another  plan  is  to  divide  the  pseudo-bulbs 
lengthwise  into  two  or  more  pieces.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Calathea,  or  Maranta.     Scitaminece. 

Increased  by  division  in  summer  or  any  time  between 
that  and  the  spring  months.  When  making  divisions, 
see  that  each  crown  is  well  furnished  with  roots. 

Calceolaria  (Slipper wort).     Scrophulariacece. 

Herbaceous  kinds  increased  by  seeds  sown  from  June 
to  August  on  pans  of  light,  sandy  soil,  which  should  be 
soaked  with  water  before  sowing.  Care  must  be  taken  to 
make  the  surface  of  the  soil  level,  and  also  to  sow  the 
seeds  as  evenly  as  possible.  It  is  better  not  to  cover  with 
soil,  but  a  sheet  of  glass  should  be  laid  over  the  pan, 
which  must  be  placed  in  a  shady  part  of  the  greenhouse 
or  coldframe  until  the  young  plants  show  the  first  leaf. 
The  glass  can  then  be  gradually  removed.  The  shrubby 
kinds,  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  in  August.  Place  in  a 
coldframe  or  bench  facing  the  north,  in  sandy  soil,  and, 
when  rooted,  pot  off  into  3-inch  pots. 

Calendula  (Pot-Marigold).     Composite. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings,  which  thrive  well 
in  a  compost  of  loam  and  peat. 

Caliphruria.    Amaryllidacece. 

Propagated  by  bulbels.  After  flowering,  the  plants 
should  have  a  slight  heat,  and  when  starting  into  new 
growth  should  be  repotted. 

Calla.    See  Richardia. 

Calliandra.     Leguminoscz. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  rather  firm  young  wood,  in 
sand  under  a  hand-glass,  in  heat. 

Callicarpa  (French  Mulberry).      Verbenacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions,  or  by  cuttings  of  the 
young  shoots,  the  last  with  the  same  treatment  as  fuchsia. 


CALLIOPSIS CALODENDRON.  197 

Calliopsis.    See  Coreopsis. 
Calliprowu     Liliacecz. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  which  should  not  be  removed 
from  the  parent  bulbs  until  they  are  of  good  size. 

Callipsyche.    Amaryllidacea. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  bulbels. 
Callirrhoe  (Poppy-Mallow).     Malvacea. 

Perennials  by  seeds,  divisions  of  roots,  and  cuttings ; 
the  annuals  by  seeds  only.  Cuttings  should  be  started  in 
sandy  soil  in  a  frame. 

Callistachys.    See  Oxylobium. 
Callistemon.    Myrtacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  ripened  cuttings  in  sand 
under  a  glass. 

Callistephus,  Callistemma  (China  Aster).     Composites. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  under 
cover  in  spring,  or  seeds  for  late  plants  may  be  sown  in 
the  open. 

Callitris,  Frenela.     Conifera. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  inserted  under  a 
hand-light  in  autumn,  and  wintered  in  a  cold  pit. 

Calluna  (Heather).     Ericacecz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  tender  shoots  inserted  in 
pure  sand  under  glass  in  a  cool  house  in  autumn. 

Calochortus  (Mariposa  Lily).     Liliacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  offsets,  and  by  the  tiny  bulblets 
on  the  upper  portion  of  the  stem.  Sow  seeds  as  soon  as 
ripe,  or  early  in  the  year,  thinly  in  pans,  so  that  the 
young  plants  may  pass  a  second  season  in  the  seed-pots 
or  pans.  Place  in  a  cool  house  or  frame,  and  keep  the 
plants  close  to  the  glass  during  their  early  stages,  as  they 
are  very  liable  to  damp-off.  Early  the  third  season  pot 
off  and  plant  singly,  encouraging  them  to  grow  freely. 
The  offsets  are  best  removed  when  the  plants  are  in  a 
dormant  state,  placed  in  pots  or  pans,  or  planted  out  in 
pits  or  frames  until  they  reach  flowering  size. 

Calodendron.    Rutacca. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  placed  in 
sand  under  a  glass,  in  gentle  bottom  heat. 


198  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Calophyllum.     Guttifera:. 

Increased  by  cuttings  made  from  the  naif-ripened 
shoots,  which  root  freely  in  sand  if  placed  under  a  glass 
in  bottom  heat. 

Calopogon.     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  offsets  taken  from  the  tuberous  roots. 
Calothamnus.    Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  firm  at  the  base. 
Place  in  sand  and  cover  with  a  hand-glass. 

Caltha  (Marsh  Marigold,  "Cowslip"  in  America).     Ranun- 

culacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  by  divid- 
ing the  roots  in  early  spring,  or  in  summer  after  flowering. 

Calycanthus    (Sweet-scented    Shrub,    Allspice).       Calycan- 

thacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  coldframe  ;  by  divisions 
or  offsets,  and  by  layers  put  down  in  summer. 

Calypso.     Orchidacecs. 

Increased  by  offsets. 
Calystegia  (Hedge   Bindweed,    Bearbind).     Convolvulacete . 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  or  by  dividing  the 
plants. 

Camassia.    Liliacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  a  warm  situation  out- 
door or  in  pots  or  boxes  under  glass.  The  young  plants 
should  remain  at  least  two  years  in  the  seed-beds.  Also 
increased  by  offsets,  which  are  produced  very  freely,  and 
which  should  be  removed  either  when  in  a  dormant  con- 
dition, or  just  previous  to  starting  into  fresh  growth,  and 
arranged  in  clumps  or  rows,  placing  a  little  sand  about 
them. 

Camellia,   including   Thea    ("Japonica,"   Japanese    Rose). 

Ternstrcemiacece. 

The  single  red  camellia  by  either  seeds,  layers  or  cut- 
tings. Double  and  variegated  camellias  by  layers,  but 
cuttings  will  succeed.  Seeds  give  suitable  stocks  on 
which  to  inarch  or  graft  the  rarer  kinds.  The  ripened 
shoots  of  the  preceding  summer  should  be  taken  off  in 
August.  Two  or  three  of  the  lower  leaves  should  be 
removed,  and  the  cuttings  planted  firmly  in  the  soil  with  a 


CAMOMILE CANNA.  IQ9 

dibble.  The  pans  containing  the  cuttings  should  be  kept 
in  a  box  or  coldframe,  without  being  covered  with  glass, 
but  shaded  during  bright  sunshine.  In  the  following 
spring,  such  as  have  struck  will  begin  to  push,  when  they 
need  to  be  placed  in  a  gentle  heat.  Make  cuttings  during 
winter  while  one-year-old  wood  is  dormant.  Inarching  or 
grafting  is  done  in  early  spring,  as  soon  as  growth  com- 
mences (Figs.  138,  139). 

Camomile.    See  Anthemis. 

Campanula  (Bell-flower,  Slipperwort).     Campanulacece. 

Increased  by  seeds.  The  perennials  are  also  propa- 
gated by  dividing  the  roots,  or  by  young  cuttings  in 
spring. 

Camphora  (Camphor-tree).     Lauracece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  and  seeds. 
Campion.     See  Silene. 
Candollea.     Dilleniacece. 

Increased  sometimes  by  seeds,  but  usually  by  cuttings, 
which  will  root  if  placed  under  a  hand-glass  in  a  compost 
of  equal  parts  loam  and  peat,  with  enough  sand  to  render 
the  whole  porous. 

Candytuft.     See  Iberis. 

Canella.     Canellacea. 

Increased  by  well-ripened  cuttings  taken  off  at  the  joint. 
They  will  root  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  with  bottom 
heat,  in  spring  ;  but  care  should  be  taken  not  to  deprive 
them  of  any  of  their  leaves. 

Canna  (Indian  Shot).     Scitaminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  heat  in  late  winter.  The 
seeds  are  very  hard,  and  germination  will  be  materially 
stimulated  if  they  are  filed  (see  page  18)  and  then  soaked 
in  tepid  water  for  twenty-four  hours.  They  should  be 
sown  thinly  in  pans  (a  mixture  of  sand  and  leaf-loam  is 
best  for  them),  and  a  covering  of  one  and  one-half  or  two 
inches  of  earth  is  not  excessive.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  sow 
the  seeds  singly  in  small  pots.  Seeds  give  new  varieties. 
Also  increased  by  divisions ;  they  form  a  large  crown  or 
stool  of  strong  buds,  each  portion  of  which,  with  bud  and 
roots  attached,  may  be  converted  into  an  independent 
plant  (Fig.  27).  Named  varieties  are  multiplied  in  this 
manner.  For  ordinary  planting-out,  the  divided  crowns 


2OO  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

are  usually  set  directly  in  the  open.  If  very  early  effects 
are  desired,  however,  the  pieces  may  be  started  on  in  pots; 
and  this  is  always  done  by  dealers,  for  they  send  out  grow- 
ing plants.  As  soon  as  frost  comes  in  the  fall,  the  tops  are 
cut,  and  the  crowns  lifted  and  stored  in  a  dry,  cool  cellar 
on  shelves.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  cellar  be  given 
plenty  of  air  until  the  roots  are  thoroughly  cured,  else  they 
may  rot. 

Cannabis  (Hemp).      Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring. 
Cantua.     Polemoniacea. 

Increased  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 
Capparis  (Caper).     Capparidacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots,  which  will  root  in 
sand  under  glass,  in  moist  heat.  Seeds,  when  obtainable. 

Capsicum.    See  Pepper,  Red. 

Caragana  (Siberian  Pea-tree).     Leguminosez. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  root  cuttings  ;  the  low- 
growing  shrubs  by  seeds  and  layers.  Caraganas  are  gen- 
erally increased  by  grafting  on  C.  arborescens,  which  is 
easily  raised  from  seeds,  sown  when  ripe  or  in  spring. 

Cardamine  (Lady's  Smock).     Cruciferce. 

Seeds.     Propagated  easily  by  division  after  flowering. 
Cardinal-flower.     See  Lobelia. 
Carex  (Sedge).     Cyperacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  division,  usually  the  latter. 
Seeds  often  lie  dormant  the  first  year. 

Careya.     Myriacece. 

Propagated  by  division,  or  by  ripened  cuttings,  which 
root  freely  if  planted  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass,  and 
placed  in  moist  bottom  heat. 

Carica  (Papaw-tree).     Passifloracece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots  with  their  leaves 
on.  They  root  readily  in  a  sandy  soil  and  in  a  gentle 
bottom  heat.  Seeds,  when  obtainable.  Sow  in  heat. 

Carnation.     Caryophyllacecs . 

By  propagating  by  »eeds,  new  varieties  are  raised.  Sow 
the  seeds  in  spring,  and  in  a  slight  hotbed  or  in  a  green- 


CAROB CASHEW.  2OI 

house.  Also  propagated  by  layering,  which  should  be 
done  at  the  end  of  July  or  the  beginning  of  August.  The 
shoots  selected  should  be  denuded  of  a  few  of  their  leaves 
at  the  base  of  the  young  wood,  and  a  slit  must  be  made 
from  this  point  upwards,  extending  through  a  joint  of  the 
bare  stem,  so  that  a  tongue  is  formed.  This  is  the 
method  employed  in  Europe.  See  Fig.  31. 

In  this  country,  always  increased  by  cuttings.  It  is 
necessary  to  have  a  slight  bottom  heat,  and  on  it  put  four 
or  five  inches  of  light  soil,  covered  with  clean  sand.  The 
cuttings  must  be  long  enough  to  have  a  tolerably  firm 
base,  and  they  should  either  be  taken  with  a  heel  or  cut  off 
at  a  joint,  and  firmly  inserted  in  the  soil.  See  Fig.  69,  b. 

Carol),  Algaroba,  or  St.  John's  Bread  (Ceratonia  siliqua}. 

Leguminosce. 

Stocks  are  obtained  by  seeds.  The  seeds  are  often 
treated  to  scalding  water  before  sowing,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  locust  seeds.  Varieties  are  grafted  or  budded  on 
the  seedlings,  or  they  may  be  multiplied  by  means  of 
hard-wood  cuttings  in  frames. 

Carpinus  (Hornbeam).     Cupulifercz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  germinate  irregularly.  Varie- 
ties propagated  by  budding  or  grafting  on  seedling  stocks. 

Carrion  Flower.     See  Stapelia. 
Carthamus  (SafHower).     Composite?. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  gentle  heat  in  spring. 
Carya.    See  Hicoria. 
Caryocar  (Butternut).     Ternstrczmiacecz : 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand 
in  heat.  Seeds,  if  obtainable. 

Caryophyllus  (Clove-tree).     Myrtacea. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots  with  the  leaves  left 
on.  These  will  root  if  planted  in  sand  in  a  moist  heat. 

Caryopteris.     Verbenacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  division,  or  by  cuttings. 
Caryota.    Palmaceez. 

Increased  easily  by  seeds  or  by  suckers. 
Cashew     See  Anacardium. 


202  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Cassandra  (Leather  Leaf).     Ericacea. 

Propagated  by  seeds  very  carefully  sown,  or  by  layers. 
Sow  seeds  in  peat  or  on  live  sphagnum  moss. 

Cassava  (Manihot  Aipe].     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  stem  and  by  suckers. 
Cut  the  large  main  stalks  into  pieces  from  4  to  6  inches 
.  long,  and  set  them  perpendicularly  into  the  ground  in  the 
field.  The  cuttings  can  be  struck  at  various  times,  but 
spring  is  usually  preferred.  The  stalks  can  be  kept  over 
winter  by  covering  with  sand  on  a  dry  knoll,  placing  the 
stalks  and  sand  in  layers.  Cover  the  whole  with  boards 
to  shed  the  water.  Suckers  which  appear  during  summer 
can  be  removed  and  planted  or  made  into  cuttings. 

Cassia.    Leguminoscz. 

Annuals  and  biennials  by  seeds,  which  must  be  sown  in 
spring,  in  a  gentle  heat.  The  shrubby  species  by  cuttings 
of  half-ripened  shoots,  which  will  root  in  heat.  C  Mary- 
landica  also  by  division. 

Cassine .     Celastracece. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  readily  strike 
root  if  planted  in  a  pot  of  sand  with  glass  over  them. 

Castalia.     See  Nymphaea. 

Castanea.     See  Chestnut  and  Chinquapin. 

Castor  Bean.    See  Ricinus. 

Casuarina  (Beefwood)      Casuarinece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  or  by  cuttings  made  of  half- 
ripened  shoots,  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 

Catalpa.    Bignoniacetz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  made  of  the  ripe 
wood.     The  named  varieties  and  C.  Bungei  are  propa 
gated  by  soft  cuttings  in  June  and  July.     Grafts  are  also 
used,  setting  them  upon  seedlings  of  C.  spedosa  or  C. 
bignonioides. 

Catananche.     Composites. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  spring. 
Also  by  division. 

Catchfly.     See  Silene. 


CATESB^EA — CELERY.  203 

Catesbaea  (Lily  Thorn).     Rubiacea. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  planted  in  sand  in  spring,  and 
plunged  in  heat. 

Catnip,  or  Catmint  (Nepeta  Cataria}.     Labiata. 

Seeds.  Division. 
Cat-Tail.  See  Typha. 
Cattleya.  Orchidacea. 

Increased  by  the  pseudo-bulbs.     (See  under  Orchids. ) 
Cauliflower.     See  Cabbage. 
Caulophyllum  (Blue  Cohosh).     Berberidacecz. 

Propagated  by  divisions  of  the  roots,  made  in  early 
spring  or  after  flowering.  Also  by  seeds,  stratified. 

Ceanothus.     Rhamnacece. 

Increased  by  layers,  which  is  the  readiest  way  of  obtain- 
ing strong  plants,  or  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  inserted 
in  a  coldframe.  Stratified  seeds. 

Cedar.    See  Cedrus  and  Juniperus. 

Cedrela  (Bastard  Cedar).     Meliacetz. 

Increased  by  large  ripened  cuttings,  placed  in  sand,  in 
heat.  C.  Sinensis  by  root-cuttings. 

Cedronella.    Labiates. 

The  herbaceous  species  by  division  of  the  roots  or  by 
cuttings  of  young  wood.  C.  triphylla  by  cuttings. 

Cedrus  (Cedar).     Conifercr. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  are  difficult  to  extract  from 
the  cones.  Gather  the  cones  in  spring,  and  sow  the  seeds 
immediately  in  pans.  Varieties  are  propagated  by  veneer 
grafts. 

Celastrus  (Staff-tree,  Bitter-sweet).     Celastracecz : 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  suckers  ;  also  by  layering  the 
hardy  species  in  autumn.  Ripened  cuttings  will  root 
freely  in  a  compost  of  loam,  peat  and  sand. 

Celery  (  Apium  graveolens}.     Untbelliferce. 

By  seeds,  as  described  on  pages  5,  22  ;  or,  for  the  early 
crop,  sow  under  glass,  as  in  a  hotbed. 


204  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Celosia  (Cockscomb).     Amarantaceez. 

Propagated  by  seed  sown  in  spring,  in  pans  or  frames, 
or  in  the  open. 

Celsia.    Scrophulariacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  the  open 
border  and  thinned  out  for  flowering,  or  raised  in  nursery 
beds  and  transplanted.  C.  Arcturus  should  be  increased 
by  cuttings,  the  young  wood  striking  freely  in  a  cool 
house  or  frame. 

Celtis  ( Nettle-tree ) .     Urticacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe.  By  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  in 
autumn. 

Centaurea.     Composites. 

Annuals  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  the  open 
border.  To  propagate  C.  Cineraria  and  some  others, 
sow  seeds  in  August  in  slight  heat,  or  make  cuttings  about 
the  beginning  of  September. 

Centranthus.     Valerianacea. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring. 

Centropogon.    Lobeliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  by  divisions  and  by  cuttings  from 
any  young  shoots  3  or  4  inches  long.  Take  off  with  a 
heel  and  place  in  sharp  sandy  soil,  close  around  the  edge 
of  the  pot,  and  then  keep  close  under  a  propagating  box, 
in  a  temperature  ranging  between  60°  and  °7o. 

Ccphalanthus  ( Button-Bush ) .     Rubiacece. 

Seeds.  Propagated  by  layers,  or  ripened  cuttings  in 
autumn. 

Cerastium.     Caryophyllacecs. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions,  or  by  cuttings  in- 
serted in  the  open  ground  in  a  shady  place,  after 
flowering. 

Ceratiola.    Empetracece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings,  which  should  be 
placed  in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Cer*tonia.    See  Carob, 


CERATOZAMIA CHELONE.  2O5 

Ceratozamia.     Cycadacea. 

By  seeds,  and  sometimes  by  suckers  and  divisions, 
but  imported  plants  give  most  satisfaction.  See  Cycas. 

Cercidiphyllum.     Magnoliacece . 

Propagated  by  tender  cuttings  made  during  the  sum- 
mer, and  slightly  wilted  before  placing  in  the  frames.  By 
seeds,  when  procurable. 

Cercis  (Red-bud,  Judas-tree).    Leguminvsce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  about  the  end  of  March  on  a 
bed  of  light  soil,  in  a  gentle  heat.  They  may  also  be  in- 
creased by  layers,  but  plants  raised  from  seeds  thrive  best. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  stratify  the  seeds.  C.  Japonica  is 
grown  from  soft  cuttings  in  early  summer. 

Cereus.    See  Cactus. 
Ceropegia.    Asclepiadacetz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  small  side  shoots  made  in 

spring,  which  will  root  in  sand,  in  heat,  with  or  without 

a  glass  covering. 

Cestrum,  including  Habrothamnus.     Solanacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  August,  or  whenever  the 
wood  is  fit. 

Chamaecyparis.     Coniferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  freely,  also  by  layers,  but  mainly 
by  cuttings  put  in  during  October  in  a  cool  greenhouse. 
Select  young  side  shoots  with  a  heel ;  insert  in  well- 
drained  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and  place  in  a  close  cold- 
frame,  keeping  fairly  moist  through  the  winter.  In  Feb- 
ruary they  should  be  callused,  and  should  be  placed  in 
gentle  heat,  where  they  will  root  freely.  See  Retinospora. 

Chamasrops,  including  Corypha.     Palmacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  suckers,  which  generally 
appear  in  considerable  quantities. 

Chamomile.    See  Anthemis. 

Chard.    See  Beet. 

Cheilanthcs.    See  Ferns. 

Chelone  ( Turtle-head ) .    Scrophulariacetz. 

Increased  by  means  of  seeds.      Also  by  dividing  the 

plant  during  fall.     Young  cuttings  inserted  in  sandy  soil 

in  a  coldframe  grow  well. 


206  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Cherry  (Prunus  Avium,  P.  Cerasus,  etc.).     Rosacece. 

Cherry  stocks  are  commonly  grown  from  seeds.  If  the 
ground  is  in  readiness,  and  is  in  proper  condition,  the 
seeds  may  be  planted  in  fall,  or  even  as  soon  as  they  are 
ripe.  If  stored  until  spring,  they  must  be  stratified  and 
kept  very  cool  to  prevent  germination,  and  they  should 
be  sown  at  the  earliest  possible  moment.  They  do  not 
need  to  be  cracked  by  hand.  Care  must  be  taken  that 
cherry  pits  do  not  become  hard  and  dry.  This  precau- 
tion is  more  important  with  cherries  than  with  peaches 
and  plums.  At  the  close  of  the  first  season,  the  seed- 
lings will  be  a  foot  or  foot  and  a-half  high,  large  enough 
to  transplant  into  nursery  rows,  after  the  manner  of 
apples,  where  they  are  budded  the  following  season.  In 
warm  climates  the  pits  are  sometimes  cracked  as  soon  as 
they  are  gathered,  and  the  "meats"  planted  immedi- 
ately. They  will  then  make  stocks  fit  for  grafting  the 
following  winter,  or  for  transplanting  and  budding  the 
following  summer.  Cherry  seeds  must  never  be  allowed 
to  become  so  dry  that  the  meat  is  hard  and  brittle. 

Cherries,  in  common  with  other  stone  fruits,  grow  read- 
ily from  root-cuttings,  in  the  same  manner  as  blackber- 
ries. They  do  better  if  started  over  a  gentle  heat. 

The  Mazzard  cherry  is  the  stock  upon  which  cherries 
are  recommended  to  be  worked.  It  is  simply  a  hardy 
and  vigorous  variety,  with  inferior  fruit,  of  the  common 
sweet  cherry  (Prunus  Avium}.  Seeds  of  this  are  read- 
ily procured  in  this  country.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  how- 
ever, nearly  all  sour  cherries  are  worked  upon  the  Maha- 
leb  in  this  country,  as  they  take  better  upon  it,  and  the 
stocks  are  cheap.  Sweet  cherries  are  often  budded  upon 
the  Mahaleb,  but  it  is  a  question  if  such  practice  is  best. 
The  Mazzard  is  such  a  strong  grower  that  the  bud  is 
often  "drowned  out"  by  the  flow  of  sap.  In  order  to 
avoid  this  exuberance,  nurserymen  often  pinch  in  the 
tips  of  the  stocks  a  few  days  before  they  are  to  be 
worked.  The  Mazzard  is  also  liable  to  leaf-blight,  and 
to  serious  injury  from  the  black  aphis,  so  that  the  bark 
often  sets  before  the  operator  has  had  time  to  finish  his 
plantation.  Mazzards  usually  have  a  shorter  budding 
season  than  Mahalebs,  and  are  less  uniform  in  behavior ; 
and  for  these  reasons,  Mahalebs  are  widely  used.  This 
is  a  distinct  species,  Prunus  Mahaleb,  from  Southern 
Europe.  The  seeds  or  stocks  are  imported.  Mahaleb 
stocks  are  recommended  in  the  books  for  dwarfing  the 
cherry,  but  the  dwarfing  depends  more  upon  pruning 


CHERRY.  207 

Cherry,  continued. 

than  upon  the  Mahaleb  root.  The  Mahaleb  is  naturally 
a  smaller  tree  than  the  Mazzard,  however.  It  is  said 
that  the  Mahaleb  is  better  adapted  to  heavy  clay  soils 
than  the  Mazzard,  but  in  practice  it  is  used  indiscrimi- 
nately for  all  soils  and  nearly  all  varieties. 

Morello  (Prunus  Cerasus]  stocks  will  no  doubt  prove  to 
be  valuable  in  the  northwest,  where  great  hardiness  is  de- 
manded. Seedlings  do  not  sprout  or  sucker  badly,  but 
the  natural  suckers,  which  are  sometimes  used  for  stocks, 
are  likely  to  be  more  troublesome  in  this  respect.  If 
strong-growing  tops  are  worked  on  Morello  stocks,  how- 
ever, there  is  usually  little  annoyance  from  suckering. 
Mahaleb  stocks  are  generally  used  for  the  Morello 
cherries. 

It  is  probable  that  some  of  the  native  American  cher- 
ries can  be  used  as  stocks.  The  common  wild  red,  pin, 
pigeon  or  bird  cherry  (Prunus  Pennsylvania)  has  al- 
ready been  used  to  some  extent.  The  sweet  and  sour 
cherries  unite  readily  with  it,  and  bear  very  early.  It  is 
yet  to  be  determined  how  long  the  trees  will  persist,  but 
there  are  trees  known  which  are  sixteen  or  eighteen  years 
old,  and  which  are  still  healthy  and  vigorous.  It  is  con- 
sidered to  be  a  very  promising  stock  for  the  cold  prairie 
states.  The  dwarf  or  sand  cherries  (Prunus  pumila  and 
P.  Besseyi)  give  promise  as  dwarf  stocks. 

Cherry  stocks  are  worked  both  by  budding  and  graft- 
ing. Budding  is  the  common  method.  The  stocks 
should  be  fit  to  work  the  season  they  are  transplanted, 
or  in  the  second  summer  from  seed.  Such  as  are  too 
small  for  working  then  may  be  allowed  to  stand  until 
the  following  year ;  or  if  the  number  is  small,  the  poor 
ones  are  rooted  out. 

In  the  west,  where  great  hardiness  is  required,  the  varie- 
ties are  crown-grafted  upon  Mazzard  stocks  in  winter. 
Yearling  stocks  are  used,  and  the  cions  are  from  6  to  10 
inches  long.  When  planted,  only  the  top  bud  should  be 
left  above  ground.  The  cion  strikes  roots,  and  own- 
rooted  trees  are  obtained. 

The  ornamental  cherries  are  worked  upon  the  same 
stocks  as  the  fruit-bearing  sorts.  Mahaleb  and  Mazzard 
are  commonly  used  for  all  species,  the  latter  for  weeping 
forms  which  need  to  be  worked  high. 

Cherry  trees  can  be  top-grafted  as  readily  as  apple  or 
pear  trees,  and  the  same  methods  are  employed.  They 
are  usually  grafted  very  early  in  the  spring.  The  chief 


208  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Cherry,  concluded. 

requisite  is  that  the  cions  be  completely  dormant.  They 
should  be  cut  in  winter  and  stored  in  an  ice-house  or  a 
cold  cellar. 

Chervil  (Chcerophyllum  bulbosum  and  Scandix  cerefolium). 
Umbelliferce . 

Seeds,  sown  much  the  same  as  celery  seeds,  but  the 
plants  are  usually  allowed  to  stand  where  sown.  Seed  is 
often  sown  in  autumn. 

Chestnut    (Castanea   sativa    and    var.    Americana,    and    C. 
Japonica).     Cupulifercs. 

Chestnut  stocks  are  grown  from  seed.  Difficulty  is 
sometimes  experienced  in  keeping  the  seeds,  as  they  lose 
their  vitality  if  dried  too  hard,  and  are  likely  to  become 
moldy  if  allowed  to  remain  moist.  The  surest  way  is  to 
allow  the  nuts  to  become  well  dried  off  or  "seasoned "  in 
the  fall,  and  then  stratify  them  in  a  box  with  three  or  four 
times  as  much  sand  as  chestnuts,  and  bury  the  box  a  foot 
or  two  deep  in  a  warm  soil  until  spring.  They  do  not 
always  keep  well  if  stored  or  stratified  in  a  cellar.  Fall 
planting  exposes  the  nuts  to  squirrels  and  mice.  Ameri- 
can stocks  are  better  than  European,  because  the  latter 
are  tender  in  the  north. 

The  stocks  are  worked  by  whip-grafting  above  ground, 
the  wound  being  well  tied  and  protected  by  waxed  cloth. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  stock  and  cion  about  the 
same  size,  in  order  to  secure  a  good  union.  Chestnuts 
can  be  cleft-grafted  like  apples  and  pears ;  but  in  small 
trees  it  is  preferable  to  set  the  grafts  below  ground,  as 
in  grapes.  The  cions  should  be  cut  early,  before  they 
begin  to  swell,  and  kept  perfectly  dormant  until  the  stock 
begins  to  push  into  leaf.  Only  vigorous  stocks  should  be 
grafted.  The  best  results  are  obtained  when  the  stocks 
have  recovered  from  transplanting,  or  when  they  are  from 
three  to  five  years  old.  The  working  of  chestnut  stocks 
is  far  from  satisfactory  in  a  commercial  way.  The  union 
is  imperfect  in  many  varieties,  and  usually  no  more  than 
half  the  grafts  take  well  and  live  long.  In  all  nut  trees, 
the  skill  of  the  operator  is  more  important  than  the  par- 
ticular method  employed. 

Chicory  (Cichorium  Intybus}.     Composites. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  grow. 
Division. 


CHILOPSIS CHRYSANTHEMUM.  2OQ 

Chilopsis  (Desert  Willow).     Bignoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots 
in  sand  under  glass,  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Chimonanthus.     Calycanthacecz. 

Propagated  by  layering  in  the  autumn. 
China  Aster.    See  Callistephus. 
Chinquapin  ( Castanea pumila}.     Cupulifercz. 

By  seeds.  Can  be  handled  in  same  manner  as  chest- 
nut, which  see. 

Chiococca  (Snowberry).     Rubiacecz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  strike  root  freely  in  sand 
under  glass,  in  heat. 

Chionanthus  (Fringe-tree).     Oleacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  started  in  a  cold- 
frame.  By  layers  and  cuttings.  By  grafting  or  budding 
it  on  the  common  ash,  it  succeeds  very  well. 

Chionodoxa.    Liliacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  produced  freely.  They 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  By  bulbels. 

Chironia.     Gentianacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  inserted  in  sandy 
soil  and  placed  in  a  gentle  heat  in  spring. 

Chives,  or  Gives  (Allium  Schoenoprasu m ) .     Liliace<z. 

Division  of  the  clumps. 
Choisya.    Rutacecz. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings. 
Christ's  Thorn.    See  Paliurus. 

Chrysanthemum.     Composite. 

Increased  by  seeds  to  obtain  new  varieties ;  these 
should  be  sown  in  spring.  Division  may  be  made,  but 
this  is  not  often  practiced.  Usually  propagated  by  cut- 
tings about  three  inches  long,  of  firm,  healthy,  short- 
jointed  shoots,  which  spring  from  the  base  of  the  plant 
after  the  flowering  season.  They  should  be  made  in  late 
winter  or  spring,  and  placed  near  the  glass  of  a  rather 
close  frame  having  a  temperature  of  about  45°.  If  in- 
serted in  pots,  only  the  lower  leaf  should  be  removed ;  if 
in  beds,  the  remaining  foliage  should  also  be  trimmed  to 


2IO  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

admit  air.  Insert  about  half  of  the  cutting,  press  the  soil 
firmly,  and  water.  Leaf  cuttings  have  been  employed. 
Inarching  and  grafting  may  also  be  performed,  when  it 
is  desired  to  grow  two  or  more  varieties  on  one  plant. 

The  time  at  which  chrysanthemum  cuttings  should  be 
taken  depends  upon  the  season  at  which  bloom  is  wanted, 
and  the  methods  of  cultivation.  The  plants  may  be  flow- 
ered in  pots,  or  in  a  solid  soil  bench.  Very  good  small 
plants  may  be  brought  to  perfection  in  6-inch  pots,  but 
the  best  results,  in  pot  plants,  are  to  be  obtained  in  8-inch 
or  lo-inch  pots.  If  the  plants  are  to  be  used  for  dec- 
oration, they  should,  of  course,  be  grown  in  pots,  but  the 
best  results  for  cut-flowers  are  usually  obtained  by  grow- 
ing in  the  earth.  In  any  case,  the  cuttings  are  made  from 
the  tips  of  basal  or  strong  lateral  shoots,  late  in  February 
to  May.  One  form  of  cutting  is  shown  in  Fig.  71.  If  the 
plants  are  to  be  flowered  in  pots — in  which  case  they  usu- 
ally mature  earlier — the  cuttings  may  be  started  as  late  as 
April,  or  even  June  ;  but  if  they  are  grown  in  the  soil  and 
large  plants  are  desired,  the  cuttings  should  b'e  taken  in 
February  or  March.  The  plants  which  are  flowered  in  the 
soil  are  generally  grown  in  pots  until  July.  The  plants 
are  flowered  but  once,  new  ones  being  grown  from  cut- 
tings each  year. 

The  Marguerite  or  Paris  Daisy  (C.  frute^cens  and  C. 
fceniciilaceum]  are  propagated  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots, 
like  geraniums. 

Chrysobalanus  (Coco  Plum).     Rosacets. 

Increased  by  seeds  when  procurable.  Large  cuttings, 
however,  taken  off  at  a  joint  without  shortening  of  leaves, 
will  root  readily  if  planted  thinly  in  a  pot  of  sand,  and 
placed  in  moist  heat  with  a  bell-glass  over  them. 

Chrysocoma  (Goldy-locks).     Composite. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened 
shoots,  placed  in  sand  under  glass.  Seeds. 

Chrysogonum.     Composite. 

Seeds.     Increased  by  dividing  the  roots  in  spring. 

Chrysophyllum  (Star  Apple).     Sapotacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  when  procurable.  By  cuttings  of 
small,  well-ripened  shoots,  plunged  in  strong,  moist  heat. 

Cicca  (Otaheite  Gooseberry).     Euphorbiacecs. 

Seeds.  By  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots,  which  will  root  in 
sand  if  placed  under  a  glass  and  in  bottom  heat. 


CIMICIFUGA C1STUS.  211 

Cimicifuga  (Bugwort).     Ranunculacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  a  coldframe  or  border  as 
soon  as  ripe  ;  or  by  division  of  the  roots  in  spring. 

Cinchona  (Peruvian  Bark).     Rubiacetz. 

Imported  seeds,  and  cuttings  taken  off  when  ripe  and 
planted  in  a  pot  of  sand,  under  glass,  in  a  moist  heat. 

Cineraria.     Composites. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  under  glass  ;  those  intended  for 
autumn  flowering  in  April  and  May,  those  for  spring  in 
July  and  August.  Light  leaf-mold  should  be  used,  and 
about  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  sifted  loam  and  sharp 
sand  added,  the  whole  being  well  mixed.  Old  cow-ma- 
nure is  a  good  medium  in  which  to  sow  (see  page  20). 
Also  by  divisions  and  by  cuttings. 

Cinquefoil.     See  Potentilla. 

Cipura.     Iridacecz, 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  a  slight 
heat  in  spring ;  or  by  bulbels,  which  are  abundantly 
produced. 

Cissampelos.     Menispermacecz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  which  root  readily  in  heat. 

Cissus.     Vitacecc. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  the  spring.  Choose  the 
weakly  shoots  that  are  pruned  just  before  the  plants 
break  into  new  growth,  or  allow  the  young  shoots  to 
grow  to  a  length  of  about  two  inches.  Then  cut  them 
off,  with  a  small  piece  of  the  basal  branch  adhering  to  the 
young  wood  ;  or  the  shoots  may  be  cut  off  with  one  or 
several  of  these  young  branchlets  on  them.  Cut  the  old 
branch  through  at  the  base  of  each  young  one,  and  in- 
sert the  cutting  with  this  heel  of  the  old  wood  entire. 
In  this  country,  usually  grown  from  common  green  cut- 
tings in  summer. 

Cistus  (Rock  Rose).     Cistacecs. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  layers  or  cuttings  under  frames 
outside,  or  inside  with  a  gentle  bottom  heat ;  but  seed- 
lings always  make  the  best  plants.  The  seeds  should 
be  sown  early  in  the  spring'  in  pans  or  boxes  in  a  frame, 
arid  lightly  covered  with  sifted  sandy  mold.  Cuttings 


212  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

should  be  made  from  3  to  4  inches  long.     They  may  be 
struck  in  spring  or  autumn,  in  sandy  peat,  under  glass. 

Citron  ( Citrus  Medica ) .     Rutacecz. 

Seeds,  which  usually  reproduce  the  kind.  Mature  cut- 
tings, the  same  as  lemon.  Also  budded  on  orange, 
lemon  or  lime  stocks. 

Citrus.    Rutacea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers,  cuttings,  inarching,  grafting 
and  budding.  For  particular  methods,  see  ^Egle,  Citron, 
Kumquat,  Lemon,  Lime,  Orange  and  Pomelo. 

Cladrastis  (Yellow wood).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  air  in  spring,  or 
by  cuttings  of  the  root. 

Clarkia.     Onagracece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  spring  or 
autumn  outdoors. 

Clematis  (Virgin's  Bower).     Ranunculacecz. 

Clematis  may  be  increased  by  seeds.  The  seed-heads 
should  be  gathered  before  autumn,  and  stratified  till  the 
following  spring,  when  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in  light, 
sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  gentle  heat  till  they  germinate. 
By  layers  outside,  put  in  at  any  time.  All  the  varieties 
of  clematis  may  also  be  increased  by  cuttings  made  of 
the  young  shoots,  which  may  be  cut  up  to  every  eye  and 
planted  in  gentle  heat.  Also  by  grafting  any  of  the 
varieties  on  portions  of  clematis  roots  in  winter.  Good, 
healthy  pieces  of  root  obtained  from  old  plants  answer 
the  purpose  well.  See  also  Atragene. 

Cleome.     Capparidacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  frame  in  spring,  with 
slight  warmth.  Ripened  cuttings  root  freely  in  moderate 
heat. 

Clerodendron,  Volkameria.      Verbenacece. 

Increased  by  seed,  which,  if  sown  when  ripe  or  in  the 
spring,  and  grown  on  in  heat,  may  be  converted  into 
flowering  plants  the  second  season.  Propagated  also  by 
cuttings  of  both  green  and  mature  wood  ;  also  of  roots. 
Suckers.  The  climbing  varieties  do  not  root  quite  so 
readily  from  cuttings  as  the  others,  but  cuttings  of  the 
ripened  wood  do  well. 


CLETHRA COCKSCOMB.  2IJ 

Clethra.     Ericacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  (as  for  Andromeda),  divisions 
and  layers.  Cuttings  taken  from  the  half-ripened  wood 
will  root  in  gentle  heat. 

Clianthus  (Glory  Pea,  Parrot  Beak).     Leguminosce. 

C.  Dampieri  is  best  raised  from  seeds,  which  should 
be  sown  singly  in  good-sized  pots,  when  the  necessity  of 
first  shifting  will  be  obviated.  C.  puniceus  and  others 
from  cuttings,  which  strike  easily  in  sand  in  bottom  heat. 

Clintoaia.    Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  division  of  the  root  in 
spring. 

Clitoria.    Leguminosce. 

The  best  method  of  increasing  is  by  seeds.  Increased 
also  by  cuttings  of  stubby  side  shoots,  which  will  root  in 
sandy  soil,  in  heat. 

Cliva,  Imantophyllum.     Amaryllidacece. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions. 

Clove-tree.    See  Caryophyllus. 

Clusia  (Balsam-tree).     Guttiferce. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots,  which  will 
strike  in  sand,  with  bottom  heat. 

Cob  sea.     Polemoniacece. 

Readily  raised  from  fresh  seed  in  spring,  if  a  gentle  bot- 
tom heat  is  supplied.  It  is  often  said  that  the  seeds  must 
be  placed  on  edge,  but  this  is  a  mistake.  Exercise  care 
not  to  keep  the  seed  soil  too  moist.  From  cuttings  taken 
when  young,  in  spring,  and  inserted  in  pots  of  sandy  soil, 
placed  in  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Coccoloba  (Seaside  Grape).    Polygonacece \ 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened 
wood,  with  leaves  entire,  and  taken  off  at  a  joint.  These 
will  root  freely  in  sand  under  glass. 

Cocculus,  Wendlandia.     Menispermacece . 

By  seeds.  By  half-ripened  cuttings  of  side  shoots ; 
these  will  root  easily  in  spring  or  summer,  if  planted  in 
sand  and  placed  in  bottom  heat,  under  glass. 

Cockscomb.    See  Celosia. 


214  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Cocoanut  ( Cocos  nucifera}.    Palmacea. 

The  nuts  are  buried  in  nursery  rows,  and  the  young 
trees  are  transplanted.  A  more  common  practice  is  to 
remove  the  buried  nuts,  when  they  begin  to  sprout,  to  the 
place  in  which  the  tree  is  to  stand.  A  nut  is  then  placed 
in  a  hole  some  two  feet  deep,  which  is  gradually  filled  in 
as  the  plant  grows.  In  from  six  to  eight  years  the  tree 
begins  to  bear.  See  Palms. 

Cocos.     Palmacece. 

Most  species  by  seeds  in  heat.  Some  by  suckers.  See 
Cocoanut,  above. 

Codiaeum,  Croton.     Euphorbiacecz. 

New  varieties  are  produced  by  seed.  Increased  by  tak- 
ing off  the  tops  of  any  strong  leading  shoots,  and  making 
them  into  cuttings.  They  may  be  struck  by  placing  singly 
in  small  pots  and  covering  with  bell-glasses,  in  strong, 
moist  heat,  where  they  will  soon  emit  roots,  without  losing 
any  of  the  leaves  attached  at  the  time  they  were  inserted. 
Or  they  may  be  placed  in  a  bed  of  sand. 

Coffea  (Coffee-tree).     Rubiacece, 

Propagated  by  seeds.  Also  by  ripe  cuttings,  which 
strike  freely  in  sand  under  glass,  in  moist  heat ;  and  the 
young  plants  so  raised  produce  flowers  and  fruit  more 
readily  than  those  grown  from  seed. 

Coffee-tree,  Kentucky.     See  Gymnocladus. 

Colchicum  (Autumn  Crocus).     Liliacece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  protected  place.  Sep- 
aration. 

Coleus.    Labiate. 

Increased  by  seeds  (which  grow  readily)  for  new  varie- 
ties. By  cuttings  with  the  greatest  freedom  at  almost  any 
time  of  the  year,  and,  with  a  good,  moist  heat,  they  will 
quickly  form  fine  specimens.  (Fig.  70.) 

Collinsonia.     Labiate?. 

Increased  readily  by  dividing  roots  of  the  perennials  in 
spring ;  also  seeds. 

Colocasia.    As  for  Caladium. 
Columbine.     See  Aquilegia. 


COLUTEA CORDIA.  215 

Colutea  (Bladder  Senna).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  soil 
in  the  autumn. 

Combretum.     Combretacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  side  shoots,  taken  off  with  a 
heel,  planted  in  sand  under  glass,  and  placed  in  heat. 
Seeds,  if  obtainable. 

Comfrey.     See  Symphytum. 
Commelina.    Commelinactig, 

Increased  by  seeds.  By  cuttings,  which  will  root  in 
sand,  in  a  gentle  hotbed. 

Comparettia.     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  plants.  (See  under 
Orchids.  1 

Comptonia  (Myrica  asplenifolia,  Sweet  Fern).     Myricacece. 
Seeds ;  by  dividing  the  clumps,  and  by  layers,  which 
should  be  put  down  in  autumn. 

Conifers.    See  the  various  genera,  as  Abies,  Picea,  Larix, 
Cedrus,  Retinospora,  Thuya,  Juniperus,  etc. 

Conocarpus  ( Button-tree ) .     Combretacece. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  taken  in 
April,  in  bottom  heat. 

Convallaria  (Lily-of-the- Valley).     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  "crowns"  or  "pips"  (see  Fig.  26),  which 
are  the  separated  growing  points  of  the  roots,  possessing 
a  strong  bud.  These  crowns  can  be  obtained  from  any 
well  established  bed  in  the  fall,  but  they  are  usually 
imported. 

Convolvulus  (Bindweed).     Convolvulacece. 

Seeds  of  the  hardy  annuals  should  be  sown  in  spring  in 
the  open  border.  The  hardy  perennials  may  be  increased 
by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  by  division  of  the  roots,  and  by 
young  cuttings. 

Coptis.    Ranunculacece , 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division  of  the  roots. 
Cordia.    Borraginacece. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings,  green  or  ripe,  which 
strike  root  readily  in  sand,  in  heat. 


2l6  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Cordyline  (Dracaena,  Dragon-tree).    Liliacea. 

Seeds,  if  fresh  ones  are  obtainable,  for  many  of  the 
species.  The  varieties  (as  the  greenhouse  dracaenas),  by 
cuttings.  Chinese  layers  (Fig.  34)  succeed  fairly  well. 
The  stems  of  old  plants  may  be  cut  up  in  pieces  i  or  2 
inches  long,  and  placed  at  any  season  in  cocoanut  fiber 
or  light  soil,  in  the  bottom  heat  of  a  propagating  house. 
The  tops  of  the  plants  will  also  strike  as  cuttings,  and  the 
fleshy  base  of  the  stem  is  sometimes  removed  and  used 
for  propagation.  Root  cuttings  do  well  in  a  moderate 
heat,  and  are  much  used.  (See  Fig.  63.) 

Corema  (Portugal  Crakeberry,  Crowberry).     Empetracece. 
Seeds. 

Coreopsis,  Calliopsis.     Composite. 

The  hardy  annuals,  which  are  largely  grown  under  the 
name  of  calliopsis  for  summer  ornamentation,  by  seeds, 
which  should  be  sown  in  early  spring  in  a  gentle  heat,  or 
outside  later.  The  perennials  are  propagated  also  by 
division  of  the  root  in  autumn  or  spring,  or  during  the 
summer  by  young  cuttings,  which  will  strike  freely  in  a 
coldframe. 

Coriander  (Coriandrum  sativum).     UmbellifercE. 

Seeds  sown  in  fall  or  spring. 
Corn.     See  Maize. 

Corn  Salad  (Valerianella,  several  species).      Valerianacece. 

Seeds  sown  in  spring,  summer  or  autumn.  The  plants 
mature  quickly. 

Cornus  (Dogwood,  Osier).     Cornacece. 

Increased  by  seed,  suckers  of  soft  wood,  layers  or  cut- 
tings. The  herbaceous  species,  C.  Canadensis  and  C. 
Suecica,  may  be  increased  by  division,  as  also  by  seeds. 
The  willow-like  cornuses  grow  from  cuttings  of  ripe  wood, 
C.  stolonifera  and  its  kin  by  layers  or  stolons.  Named 
varieties  and  some  species  are  budded  in  many  cases, 
especially  all  the  weak-growing  sorts.  Cornus  Mas, 
raised  from  seed,  is  the  favorite  stock.  Shield-budding  in 
late  summer  and  veneer-grafting  are  most  successful.  A 
cutting  is  shown  in  Fig.  60. 

Coronilla.    Leguminosce. 

By  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.     The  hardy  species  by 


CORTUSA COTYLEDON.  217 

division.  Cuttings  strike  freely  if  placed  in  a  coldframe  or 
a  cool  house  under  a  hand-glass  in  spring,  and  when  cal- 
lused,  introduced  to  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Cortusa.    Primulacece. 

Increased  by  seed  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  a  coldframe  ; 
.  also  .by  carefully  dividing  the  roots. 

Corydalis.     Fumariacetz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  dividing  the  plants  directly 
after  flowering.  The  bulbous-rooted  species  by  offsets. 

Corylus  (Hazel,  Filbert,  Cob-nut).     Cupuliferfz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  suckers,  layers  or  cuttings. 
Grafting  and  budding  are  each  practicable,  and  are 
adopted  when  growing  tall  standards  or  scarce  varieties. 
The  seed  of  all  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  gathered,  or 
stored  in  sand  till  the  following  spring.  All  superior 
varieties  should  be  increased  by  suckers  or  layers.  Stools 
kept  for  layering  must  be  allowed  to  make  more  growth 
than  those  used  for  suckers.  Free  growth  must  be  en- 
couraged for  a  year  or  more,  and,  any  suitable  time  in 
winter,  the  shoots  should  be  bent  to  the  ground,  pegged 
firmly,  and  covered  to  the  depth  of  3  inches  with  earth. 
They  will  be  well  rooted  by  the  following  autumn,  and 

.  .may  then  be  removed  and  planted  out  permanently. 

Cosmos.     Composites. 

Seeds,  usually  started  under  glass.  The  tuberiferous 
species  like  Dahlia,  which  see. 

Costus.     Scitaminece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  roots. 

Cotoneaster.    Rosacecz, 

Propagated  readily  by  seed,  which  should  be  sown  in 
spring ;  by  layers  or  cuttings  in  autumn,  or  by  grafting  on 
C.  vulgaris,  the  common  quince,  or  the  hawthorn. 

Cotton  ( Gossypium ) .     Malvacece. 

Seeds  commonly.  When  grown  as  a  curiosity  under 
glass,  it  may  be  increased  by  soft  cuttings. 

Cotyledon  (Navel wort).     Crassulacece. 

Increased  by  seed,  offsets,  cuttings  of  the  stem,  and  by 
leaves.  The  leaves  should  be  pulled  off  in  autumn,  laid 
on  dry  sand  in  pans  on  a  shelf  in  a  propagating  or  other 


2l5  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

warm  house,  and  not  watered  until  small  plants  appear  at 
the  ends  of  the  leaves. 

Cow-pea.     See  Vigna. 

Cowslip.     See  Primula  and  Caltha. 

Crambe.     Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  by  dividing  the  roots  and  by  root 
cuttings.  See  Sea-kale. 

Cranberry  (  Vaccinium  macrocarpon}.     Ericacece. 

The  cultivated  cranberry  is  propagated  entirely  by  cut- 
tings. These  are  made  from  vigorous  young  runners, 
from  6  to  10  inches  in  length,  and  they  are  thrust  obliquely 
into  the  soil  until  only  an  inch  or  two  of  the  tip  projects. 
Some  blunt  instrument,  as  a  stick,  is  commonly  used  to 
force  them  into  the  sand  of  cranberry  bogs.  Planting  is 
done  in  the  spring,  and  the  cuttings  are  taken  just  previ- 
ous to  the  operation.  If  cranberry  seedlings  are  desired, 
the  seeds  should  be  sown  in  flats  of  peaty  earth,  which  are 
stored  until  spring  in  some  protected  place,  in  the  manner 
of  stratification  boxes.  The  seeds  should  be  covered 
lightly,  preferably  with  fine  moss.  The  plants  are  allowed 
to  grow  the  first  year  in  the  box. 

Crassula.     Crassulacece. 

Seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  taken  off  and 
laid  for  two  or  three  days  in  the  sun  to  dry  before  planting. 

Crataegus  (Haw,  Hawthorn).     Rosacecz. 

Propagated  by  stratified  seeds,  which  remain  dormant 
for  one  or  two  years.  Some  growers  spread  the  haws  in 
shallow  piles  in  the  fall,  and  allow  them  to  decay,  so  that 
most  of  the  pulp  is*  removed  before  they  are  stratified. 
Haws  often  come  irregularly,  even  from  stratified  seeds. 
The  varieties  are  grafted,  rarely  budded,  on  common 
stocks. 

Cress  (Lepidium  sativuni).     Crucifertz. 

Seeds,  sown  at  any  time  of  year.     See  Water  Cress. 
Cress,  American.     See  Barbarea. 
Cress,  Rock.     See  Arabis. 

Crinum.     Amaryllidacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  singly  as  soon  as  ripe  in  three 
or  four-inch  pots,  in  sandy  loam  and  leaf-mold.  Place  in 


CRITHMUM — CUCUMBER.  2IQ 

a  temperature  of  from  70°  to  80°,  and  keep  rather  dry 
until  the  plants  appear,  when  more  moisture  should  be 
applied.  Also  increased  by  offsets,  which  should  be  re- 
moved when  rather  small  and  potted  separately,  and 
grown  as  recommended  for  seedlings. 

Crithmum.     Umbelliferez. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  by 
divisions. 

Crocosmia.     Iridaceez. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  pans  in  a  cold  house  as 
soon  as  possible  after  maturity.  Also  by  offsets. 

Crocus.     Iridacecz. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  early  in 
spring,  the  choicer  strains  in  pots  or  boxes,  using  a  light, 
sandy  soil,  and  afterwards  placing  them  in  a  cold  pit  or 
frame ;  the  more  common  varieties  may  be  placed  in  a 
warm  position  outside  in  a  seed-bed.  Sow  thinly,  so  that 
the  plants  may  grow  two  years  in  the  seed-pan  or  bed 
without  lifting.  By  the  cprms.  These  may  be  lifted  and 
replanted,  allowing  each  in  its  turn  to  develop  new  corms 
below.  The  following  year  new  corms,  or  cormels,  are 
also  formed  by  the  side  of  the  old  corms.  These  old 
corms  die  away  annually.  Some  species  increase  much 
more  rapidly  than  others.  (See  page  31.) 

Crotalaria  (Rattle-box).     Leguminosce. 

Increased  by  seeds.  The  shrubby  kinds  by  young  cut- 
tings, which  root  freely  in  sand,  under  glass,  in  a  cool 
house. 

Croton.     See  Codiaeum. 
Crowfoot.     See  Ranunculus. 

Crucianella  (Crosswort).     Rubiace<z. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  divisions  during  spring  or 
autumn,  and  by  cuttings. 

Cryptomeria  (Japan  Cedar).     Conifertz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  growing  wood 
planted  in  sandy  soil,  under  glass. 
Cubeba.     See  Piper. 
Cucumber  (Cucumis  sativus}.     Cucurbitacece. 

Seeds.  If  sown  outdoors,  the  operation  should  be 
delayed  until  the  weather  is  thoroughly  settled. 


220  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Cucumber-tree.    See  Magnolia. 

Cunninghamia  (Broad-leaved  China  Fir).     Conifer  a. 
Increased  by  seeds,  and  cuttings  of  growing  wood. 

Cuphea.     Lythracecz. 

Increased  easily  by  seed  ;  but  cuttings  of  the  perennial 
sorts  strike  freely  in  spring,  in  brisk  bottom  heat. 

Cupressus  (Cypress).     Conifer ce. 

Seeds  may  be  collected  in  early  spring,  and  should  be 
sown  in  April  in  a  warm,  friable  soil.  Cuttings  of  grow- 
ing or  mature  wood,  much  as  for  Retinospora,  which  see. 

Curculigo.     Amaryllidacece. 

Seeds ;  also  by  suckers,  which  form  at  the  base  of 
the  stem. 

Curcuma  (Turmeric).     Scitaminece . 
Increased  by  root  division. 

Currant  (Ribes  rubrum,  R.  nigrum  and  R,  aureum).     Sax~ 

ifragacecz. 

New  varieties  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  may  bt 
sown  in  the  fall  or  stratified  until  spring.  Commercial 
varieties  are  nearly  always  multiplied  by  hard-wood  cut- 
tings (Fig.  65).  The  cuttings  may  be  taken  in  spring  and 
placed  directly  in  the  ground,  but  better  results  are  ob- 
tained by  taking  them  in  the  fall  or  late  summer.  Many 
nurserymen  prefer  to  take  them  in  August,  strip  off  the 
leaves,  and  bury  them  in  bunches  with  the  butts  up. 
They  may  remain  in  this  condition  or  in  a  cellar  all  win 
ter,  or  they  may  be  planted  in  the  fall.  Currant  cuttings 
strike  readily,  however,  under  any  method.  Some  grow- 
ers cut  out  the  buds  which  stand  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  to  prevent  suckering,  but  this  is  not  generally 
practiced  ;  the  suckers  are  cut  off  when  the  cuttings  are 
removed  from  the  cutting-bed,  either  to  be  sold  or  to  be 
transplanted  into  nursery  rows.  Strong  plants,  such  as 
eastern  markets  demand,  are  usually  obtained  by  allow- 
ing the  cuttings  to  stand  for  two  years  before  sale. 
Green  layering  is  sometimes  practiced  with  rare  sorts,  or 
single  eyes  may  be  used,  as  in  grapes.  Tip-layering,  as 
in  the  black  raspberry,  may  also  be  employed.  (See 
page  36.)  Weak  or  low  sorts  are  sometimes  grafted 
upon  stronger  ones,  in  order  to  give  them  a  tree  form, 


CUSSONIA — CYPERUS.  221 

but    such    bushes  are    grown  only  as  curiosities  or  as 
specimen  plants. 

Cussonia.     Araliacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings,  which  should  be  planted  in  sand, 
under  glass.  Give  slight  bottom  heat. 

Custard  Apple.    See  Anona. 

Cyananthus.     Campanulacea '. 

Seeds.  Strong  roots  may  be  carefully  divided  in 
spring,  but  this  is  not  desirable.  Usually  by  cuttings, 
which  should  be  taken  during  spring  or  early  summer, 
and  struck  in  sandy  peat,  being  kept  moist. 

Cyanophyllum.     Melastomacefz. 

Increased  by  seed.  By  cuttings  or  eyes,  which  should 
be  placed  in  sand,  where  a  good  bottom  heat  must  be 
maintained,  and  they  should  be  shaded  from  the  sun. 

Cyathea.    See  Ferns. 

Cycas.     Cycadacecz . 

Increased  by  seed,  and  oftener  by  suckers.  Some,  and 
perhaps  all,  of  the  cycads  can  be  propagated  by  sections 
of  the  old  stem  or  trunk.  Cut  the  trunk  into  truncheons 
2  or  3  inches  thick,  usually  slanting ;  let  the  pieces  dry  a 
few  days  to  guard  against  rotting,  then  plant  in  pots  or 
sand.  Roots  will  form  between  the  scales,  and  new 
plants  will  push  out.  These  should  be  removed  and 
treated  as  independent  plants.  The  severed  crown  of 
the  trunk  may  also  be  potted,  and  it  will  grow. 

Cyclamen  (Sowbread ) .     Primulacecz. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  when  freshly  gathered  ;  the 
hardy  kinds  in  pots  placed  in  a  cool  frame.  By  divisions, 
and  leaf  cuttings  taken  off  with  a  heel ;  but  these  meth- 
ods are  not  very  satisfactory. 

Cypella.     Iridacetz. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  cool 
house,  and  by  offsets. 

Cyperus.     Cyperacecs. 

Propagated  either  by  seed,  sown  in  gentle  heat,  or  by 
divisions.  C.  alternlfolius,  the  umbrella-plant,  propa- 
gates readily  from  the  crown  or  rosette  of  leaves.  Cut 
pff  the  crown,  with  an  inch  or  two  of  stem  remaining, 


222  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

and  set    on   sand   or   moss.      Cut  in   the   leaves.     New 
plants  will  start  from  the  axils.     See  Papyrus. 

Cyphia.     Campanulacece . 

When  the  stems  begin  to  push  out  from  the  root,  cut 
off  as  many  of  the  shoots  as  are  required,  and  place  them 
in  small  pots  in  an  equal  mixture  of  loam,  peat,  and  sand 
in  abundance.  The  young  plants  should  be  kept  dry 
until  callused,  but  not  covered  with  glass.  They  may 
also  be  increased  by  cuttings,  under  a  hand-glass  in  a 
cool  house. 

Cyphomandra  (Tree  Tomato  of  Jamaica).     Solanacece. 

Use  seeds  ;  or  cuttings  may  be  placed  under  glass,  in 
bottom  heat. 

Cypress.     See  Cupressus. 

Cypripedium  (Lady's  Slipper).     Orchidaceez . 

By  seeds  sometimes  ;  usually  by  divisions.  (See  under 
Orchids. ) 

Cyrilla.     Cyrillacefz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings,  like  Andromeda,  etc. 
Cyrtanthus.     Amaryllidacecz. 

Propagated  by  offsets. 
Cytisus  (Scotch  Broom).      Leguminosa. 

By  seeds  and  layers.  In  spring,  cuttings  of  young 
wood  may  be  taken  when  about  three  inches  long  ( with 
a  heel  preferred),  placed  under  a  bell-glass  in  heat,  or 
in  a  close  frame,  where  they  will  root  readily.  If  grad- 
ually hardened,  potted  and  grown  on,  small  flowering 
specimens  may  be  obtained  the  following  spring.  C. 
purpurea  is  usually  grafted  on  the  common  laburnum. 
Species  of  Genista  are  propagated  the  same. 

Dacrydium  (Tear  Tree).     Coniferce. 

Increased  by  fresh  seed  and  ripened  cuttings. 
Daffodil.     See  Narcissus. 
Dahlia.     Composites. 

Commonly  grown  from  tubers,  which  are  dug  in  the 
fall  and  stored  in  the  cellar,  like  potatoes.  Each  fork  of 
the  root  may  be  broken  apart  and  planted  separately  in 
the  field  ;  or  the  pieces  may  be  started  on  early  in  pots 
or  boxes. 


DAHLIA DAPHNE.  223 

Single  varieties,  and  sometimes  the  doubles,  are  grown 
from  seeds. 

Dahlia  tubers  may  be  started  into  growth  in  heat  late 
in  winter,  and  the  young  sprouts  may  be  removed  and 
handled  as  ordinary  cuttings  as  fast  as  they  form,  the 
same  as  sweet  potatoes  are  handled.  These  cuttings 
should  be  removed  close  to  the  tuber  or  else  at  the  first 
joint  (preferably  the  former)  and  handled  into  small  pots, 
where  they  will  soon  form  tubers.  These  cutting-plants, 
if  6  to  10  inches  high  when  set  in  the  open,  make  excel- 
lent bloom  that  season,  although  generally  giving  dwarfer 
plants  than  those  grown  from  tubers  planted  directly  in 
the  ground.  Rare  sorts  may  be  increased  during  summer 
by  cuttings  from  the  growing  tips.  Cions  made  of  the 
growing  tips  may  be  grafted  into  the  roots  by  a  cleft-  or 
side-graft  (see  page  129).  This  method  is  oftenest  em- 
ployed for  the  purpose  of  preserving  overwinter  rare  sorts 
which  it  is  feared  may  be  lost.  The  grafts  are  kept  grow- 
ing slowly  during  winter,  and  cuttings  may  be  taken  from 
them.  Sometimes  cions  are  taken  from  forced  plants  in 
late  winter  or  early  spring  and  set  in  strong  tubers  for  out- 
door planting.  Cuttings  should  always  have  a  bud  or 
buds  at  the  base,  and  in  propagation  by  division,  there 
must  be  a  piece  of  the  crown  attached  to  the  root. 

Daisy.     See  Bellis  and  Chrysanthemum. 

Dalbergia.     Leguminoscz. 

Place  cuttings  of  firm  young  shoots  in  sand  under  a 
glass,  in  spring.  Give  a  little  bottom  heat. 

Dandelion  (  Tarajcicum  officinale}.     Compost  fee. 

Seeds,  in  early  spring,  when  grown  for  "greens." 

Daphne.     Thymel&acecz. 

Seeds.  For  layers,  remove  the  soil  in  spring  to  a 
depth  of  2  or  3  inches  about  the  plant,  and  fill  with  fine 
compost  to  within  two  inches  of  the  tops  of  the  shoots. 
The  next  spring,  carefully  wash  away  the  compost,  and 
plant  the  small  white  buds  in  pots  of  fine  soil.  Place  in 
a  cool  frame. 

Cuttings  should  be  made  of  matured  shoots  or  side 
growths  in  autumn  ;  insert  thinly  in  well-drained  pots  of 
peaty  soil,  and  cover  with  a  bell-glass.  If  kept  in  a  cool 
House  in  winter  they  will  callus,  and,  early  in  spring,  may 
be  introduced  to  gentle  heat,  to  encourage  growth  ancl 


224  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

the  emission  of  roots.  Pot  the  young  plants  singly,  and 
grow  on  in  a  close  but  not  high  temperature,  and  after- 
wards harden  and  keep  rather  cool  during  the  following 
autumn  and  winter,  in  order  to  thoroughly  ripen  the 
wood.  Grafted  specimens  may  be  treated  in  a  similar 
way.  D.  odora  is  propagated  by  ripened  cuttings  in  a 
cool  house,  in  sand.  Sometimes  the  old  wood  can  be 
used.  The  time  is  determined  by  the  fitness  of  the  wood. 

Darlingtonia.     Sarraceniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  dividing  the  plants.  Seeds 
may  be  sown  on  the  surface  of  well-prepared  fibrous  soil, 
and  then  covered  with  dead  sphagnum  moss,  rubbed 
through  a  sieve.  Give  shade. 

Dasylirion.     Liliacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  suckers  and  cuttings. 

Date,  Date  Palm  (Phoenix  dactylifera}.     Palmacecz. 

The  seeds  from  commercial  dates  grow  readily,  and 
without  the  intervention  of  stratification.  Special  varie- 
ties are  propagated  by  a  sort  of  cutting,  made  by  remov- 
ing and  rooting  the  sprouts  which  appear  about  the  base 
of  the  tree.  These  root  readily  if  taken  off  green  and 
liberally  supplied  with  water.  They  often  begin  to  bear 
in  five  or  six  years.  The  species  grown  for  ornament  are 
generally  increased  by  suckers. 

Datisca.     Datiscacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  and  by  dividing  well  estab- 
lished plants. 

Datura,  including  Brugmansia  and  Stramonium.    Solanacecs. 

The  annual  species  are  propagated  by  seeds,  which  are 

started  under  cover  in  the  north.     The  perennials  are 

readily  grown  from  cuttings  in  mild  heat.     Heeled  shoot? 

are  usually  preferred. 

Davallia.     Filices, 

Propagated  largely  by  division.     See  Ferns. 

Day  Lily.     See  Hemerocallis  and  Funkia. 

Decumaria.     Saxifragacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  may  be  made  in  summer,  and  placed 
under  a  frame  in  a  shady  situation. 


DELPHINIUM — DEWBERRY.  225 

Delphinium  (Larkspur).     Ranunculacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  outdoors  in  a  warm  border  in 
spring,  or  in  pans,  to  be  placed  either  in  frames  or  outside. 
The  old  plants  of  perennial  sorts  may  be  cut  down  after 
flowering,  when  young  growths  will  spring  from  the 
base,  and  the  whole  may  be  lifted  and  carefully  divided. 
Cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  taken  in  autumn  or  spring, 
will  root  freely  if  potted  singly  and  placed  in  a  coldframe. 
They  will  flower  the  following  season  at  the  same  time 
as  the  divisions. 

Dendrobium.     Orchidacece . 

Where  a  rapid  increase  of  a  new  or  special  variety  is 
required,  the  pseudo-bulbs  that  are  more  than  one  year 
old  should  be  cut  into  lengths,  and  fastened  on  orchid 
rafts,  with  a  layer  of  sphagnum  beneath  them.  Suspend 
them  in  a  hot,  moist  house,  if  possible,  over  a  water- 
tank.  The  advantage  of  this  method  is  that  the  young 
plants  do  not  need  shifting  after  they  commence  rooting 
on  their  own  account.  The  section  to  which  D.  aggre- 
gatum^  D.  Jenkinsii,  D.  densiflorum  and  D.  thrysiflorum 
belong  are  best  propagated  by  division.  (See  under 
Orchids. ) 

Dent  aria  (Tooth  wort).     Crucifercz. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  divisions. 

Deodar.    See  Cedrus. 

Deutzia.    Saxifragacetz. 

Commercially,  the  species  are  mostly  propagated  by 
green  hardened  cuttings  in  summer,  under  a  frame. 
Hard-wooded  cuttings  may  be  taken  in  autumn,  and  be 
treated  in  about  the  same  manner  as  currant  cuttings  (see 
pages  67,  68).  The  deutzias  are  also  propagated  by  divi- 
sions and  layers.  Some  of  the  dwarf  sorts  are  sometimes 
forced,  to  make  cuttings  for  winter  use. 

Dewberry   (Rubus   Canadensis  and  vars.,  Rubus  vitifolius 

and  Rubus  trivialis}.     Rosacece. 

Seeds  are  handled  in  the  same  manner  as  blackberry 
seeds.  Increased  by  layers  and,  like  the  blackberry,  by 
root  cuttings.  Layers  are  made  by  simply  covering  the 
decumbent  canes  at  the  joints.  This  is  the  usual  method 
of  multiplication.  The  tips,  too,  root  freely,  as  in  the  black- 
cap raspberries,  and  it  is  from  these  that  the  commer- 
cial dewberry  plants  are  mostly  grown.  See  Blackberry. 


226  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Dianthera.     As  for  Justicia. 

Dianthus.     See  Carnation,  Pink  and  Sweet  William. 

Dicentra,  Dielytra  (Bleeding  Heart).     Fumariace<z. 

The  crowns  may  be  divided  in  early  spring,  or  cuttings 
may  be  made  of  the  fleshy  roots  in  short  lengths,  and 
placed  in  sand.  The  roots  should  be  placed  in  a  compost 
of  sandy  loam,  in  well-drained  pots,  as  soon  as  the  foliage 
dies  off,  and  transferred  to  a  coldframe.  The  native  spe- 
cies propagate  readily  by  the  underground  parts — D.  Cu- 
cullaria  by  division  of  the  bulbs,  and  D.  Canadensis  by 
the  little  tubers.  All  species  grow  from  seeds  which  have 
been  stratified. 

Dichorisandra.     Commelinacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings. 
Dicksonia.     Filices. 

Division  mostly.     See  Ferns. 
Dictamnus  (Dittany,  or  Fraxinella).     Rutacece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.     Division. 
Dictyosperma.     See  Areca. 
Didymocarpus.     Gesneracece. 

Cuttings,  which  are  obtained  from  young  shoots  when 
commencing  growth,  and  placed  in  sandy  soil,  in  heat. 
Also  by  seeds. 

Dielytra.    See  Dicentra. 

Diervilla,  Weigela.     Caprifoliace<z. 

Suckers.  Cuttings  may  be  made  in  spring,  summer  or 
autumn.  Hardened  green  cuttings,  handled  under  a 
frame  in  summer,  are  extensively  used  by  nurserymen. 
(See  pages  67,  68. )  They  are  sometimes  grown  from  cut- 
tings in  winter  from  forced  plants.  Hard-wood  cuttings, 
made  in  winter  and  planted  in  spring,  like  the  grape,  suc- 
ceed well. 

Dieffenbachia.     As  for  Caladium. 
Digitalis  (Foxglove).     Scrophulariacece : 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring,  either  indoors  or  in  the  open. 
The  common  foxglove  (D.  purpurea}  often  self-sows. 

Dill  {Anethum  graveolens}.     Umbelliferce. 
Seeds,  in  early  spring. 


DILLENIA DISPORUM.  227 

Dillenia.     Dilleniacea. 

Seeds,  which,  however,  are  grown  with  much  difficulty. 
Cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  may  be  placed  in  sand, 
under  a  frame,  in  bottom  heat. 

Dimorphanthus.     See  Aralia. 

Dion,  Platyzamia.      Cycadacece. 

Propagated  by  seed.     See  Cycas. 

Dionasa.     Droseracecz. 

Propagated  sometimes  by  seed;  usually  by  dividing 
the  plants. 

Dioscorea  (Yam).     Dioscoreacece. 

The  tubers  may  be  divided  in  autumn  or  spring,  when 
not  growing.  Start  in  heat.  Seeds  are  sometimes  used  ; 
so  are  the  tubers  which  form  in  the  axils  by  the  leaves. 
Stove  species  can  be  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  half- 
ripened  wood. 

Diospyros  (Date  Plum,  Persimmon).     Ebenacecz. 

Seeds  are  used  for  the  hardy  species.  Also  by  cuttings 
of  half-ripened  shoots.  Those  requiring  stove  heat  strike 
best  from  ripened  shoots,  placed  in  sand  in  a  brisk  bot- 
tom heat  during  spring.  See  also  Persimmon. 

Dipladenia.     Apocynacece. 

In  spring,  when  the  plants  commence  new  growth,  cut- 
tings from  the  young  shoots  are  made.  These,  or  single 
eyes,  should  be  placed  in  a  mixture  of  sand  and  peat  in 
good  bottom  heat. 

Diplothemium.     Palmacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds. 

Dirca.     Thymelceacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  layers. 

Disa.     Orchidacecz. 

D.  grandiflora  and  others  of  similar  habit  are  propa- 
gated by  offsets.  These  are  best  taken  off  about  Decem- 
ber, and  treated  like  the  old  plants.  (See  under  Orchids.) 

Disporum,  including  Prosartes.     Liliacece. 

Seeds  may  be  used  ;  or  the  plant  may  be  divided  in 
spring  before 'active  growth  commences. 


228  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Dodecatheon  (American  Cowslip).     Primulacece, 

Seeds.  The  crowns  may  be  divided  either  in  spring  or 
autumn.  Cuttings  of  the  whole  root  can  be  effectively 
used,  the  root  being  torn  off  the  crown,  planted  upright, 
and  covered  with  the  sandy  soil  commonly  used  in  this 
form  of  propagation. 

Dog's  Bane.    See  Apocynum. 
Dog's-tooth  Violet.     See  Erythronium. 
Dogwood.     See  Cornus. 

Dolichos.     Leguminosce. 

By  seeds.    Sometimes  cuttage  or  layerage  is  resorted  to. 

Doronicum  (Leopard's  Bane).     Composite. 
Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions. 

Dorstenia.     Urticacetz. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  hotbed  in  early  spring.  Be- 
fore active  growth  commences,  the  plants  may  be  divided. 

Doryanthes.    Amaryllidacece. 

Propagated  by  suckers  placed  in  small  pots. 

Downingia,  Clintonia.     Lobeliacece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  mild  heat  in  spring. 

Draba  (Whitlow  Grass).     Crucifercs. 

The  annuals  or  biennials  are  propagated  by  seeds  sown 
in  spring  in  the  open  border.  The  perennials  may  be 
propagated  by  dividing  the  crowns. 

Dracaena.    See  Cordyline. 

Dracocephalum  (Dragon's  Head).     Labiates. 

The  annuals  are  grown  from  seeds,  sown  in  the  open 
in  spring.  Perennials  are  increased  by  dividing  the  roots, 
or  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  in  spring. 

Dracontium.     See  Amorphophallus. 
Dragon-tree.    See  Cordyline 

Drimys,  Wintera.     Magnoliacece. 

Cuttings  made  of  half-ripened  shoots  should  be  inserted 
in  a  frame.  Seeds,  when  obtainable. 


DROSERA EL^AGNUS.  22Q 

Droaera  (Sundew).     Droseracecs. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  possible  after  gathering.  D. 
binata  is  increased  by  cutting  roots  from  strong  plants 
into  pieces  of  one-half  or  one  inch  in  length,  and  placing 
them  on  the  surface  of  shallow  earthenware  pans,  in 
sandy  peat  soil,  and  covering  about  one-half  inch  deep 
with  the  same  material.  They  are  then  placed  under  a 
bell-glass,  and  transferred  to  a  damp,  warm  propagating 
house.  This  will  suggest  treatment  for  other  species. 

Drosophyllum.     Droseracecz. 

Propagated  by  seed. 
Dutchman's  Pipe.     See  Aristolochia. 
Eccremocarpus  (Calampelis).     Bignoniacea. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring,  in  a  gentle  heat.  Cuttings  may 
be  used  of  green  or  ripe  wood. 

Echeveria.     See  Cotyledon. 
Echinacea.      Composites. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds  and  division. 
Echinocactus.    See  Cactus. 
Echinops  (Globe  Thistle).     Composite. 

Sow  the  seeds  in  spring  for  the  propagation  of  the  bi- 
ennials, and  divide  the  perennials  early.  Also  by  root 
cuttings. 

Edelweiss.     See  Leontopodium. 

Egg-Plant  (Solanum  Melongend].     Solanacece. 

Seeds  in  heat,  in  late  winter  or  spring.     Cuttings  rarely. 

Eglantine.     See  Rosa. 

Eichhornia  (Pontederia  azurea  of  florists).      Pontederiacea;. 
Propagation  is  effected  by  division  in  spring  ;  seeds. 

Elaeagnus  (Oleaster,  Wild  Olive,  Goumi).     Elceagnacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings.  Hard-wood  cut- 
tings of  E.  hortensis  strike  readily.  The  named  varieties 
are  often  grafted  on  the  most  vigorous  varieties  obtain- 
able. Imported  seeds  of  some  species  are  apt  to  be 
empty.  E.  longipes  can  readily  be  propagated  by  cut- 
tings of  the  half-ripened  wood  in  June  and  July,  under 
glass, 
p 


230  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Elder.     See  Sambucus. 

Elecampane  (Inula  Helenium}.     Composite?. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  open  air  in  early  spring  ;  but 
generally  by  division  of  the  stools. 

Elm.     See  Ulmus. 

Empetrum  (Crowberry,  or  Crakeberry).     Empetracece. 

Seeds.  In  summer,  cuttings  may  be  made,  and  should 
be  placed  in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Encephalartos.     Cycadacece. 

Increased  by  seeds.     See  Cycas. 

Endive  ( Cichorium  Endivia).     Composites. 

Seeds,  either  in  the  open  where  the  plants  are  to  stand, 
or  under  glass. 

Eomecon.     Papaveracece. 
Seeds  ;  also  by  division. 

Epacris.     Epacridacece. 

Grown  from  tip  cuttings  in  a  frame  in  winter,  with 
bottom  heat.  The  cuttings  root  very  slowly. 

Ephedra.     Gnetacece. 

Layers  may  be  made  from  young  shoots  or  branches. 

Epidendrum.     Orchidacecz. 

The  tall-stemmed  section  of  this  genus  is  increased  by 
cuttings,  the  section  with  short,  thick  pseudo-bulbs  by 
division.  The  former  also  occasionally  produces  vivip- 
arous flower-scapes,  thus  affording  a  ready  means  of  in- 
crease. (See  under  Orchids.) 

Epigaea  (Trailing  Arbutus).     Ericacecs. 

Increased  with  great  difficulty  by  careful  divisions  of 
established  plants,  and  by  layers.  Seeds,  when  obtain- 
able, can  be  used,  but  are  slow  to  develop.  Cuttings  are 
most  successful.  Use  last  year's  wood  in  house  in  win- 
ter, putting  them  in  sand.  Pot  them  up  as  soon  as  estab- 
lished, and  keep  them  in  pots  until  they  are  set  into  per- 
manent quarters. 

Epimedium  (Barren wort).     Berberidacece. 

Sometimes  increased  by  seeds.  During  July  or  August, 
divisions  of  the  roots  can  be  made. 


EPIPHYLLUM ERIOSTEMON.  23! 

Epiphyllum.     Cactacea. 

Readily  grown  from  cuttings.  Pieces  of  the  branches  4 
to  6  inches  long  are  placed  in  sandy  soil  in  gentle  heat, 
and  kept  moderately  dry.  Epiphyllums  are  often  grafted 
on  strong  stocks  of  pereskia  {Pereskia  aculeata  is  com- 
monly used,  but  P.  Bleo  is  equally  as  good),  for  the  pur- 
pose of  getting  high  or  rafter  plants.  A  young  shoot  is 
cleft-  or  side-grafted  into  any  portion  of  the  pereskia 
which  has  become  hard,  and  the  cion  is  held  in  place  by 
a  cactus  spine  passed  through  it.  Several  cions  may  be 
inserted  along  the  sides  of  the  stock.  See  Cactus. 

Kranthemum.     Acanthacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  root  readily  in  spring  in  peaty  soil,  in 
a  close  frame  where  there  is  a  bottom  heat  of  about  70°. 

Branthis  (Winter  Aconite).     Ranunculacea : 
Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions. 

Eremurus.     Liliacea. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions. 

Erica  (Heath).     Ericacece. 

Will  grow  from  seeds,  but  these  are  used  generally  to 
secure  new  varieties.  If  seeds  are  employed,  sow  on 
peat  or  live  sphagnum,  and  exercise  great  care  not  to  let 
them  dry  out.  Commonly  propagated  by  very  short  cut- 
tings, taken  from  the  tips,  or  made  of  the  lower  young 
growth.  Carefully  remove  the  leaves  from  the  lower 
parts  of  the  cutting,  which  should  be  about  one  inch  long, 
and  then  insert  rather  closely  in  pots,  which  should  be 
filled  two-thirds  with  crocks,  the  remainder  being  fine 
sandy  peat  with  a  layer  of  clean,  compact  sand  on  the  sur- 
face. Cover  with  glass.  Water  well,  and  place  in  a  tem- 
perature of  about  60°. 

Erinus.     Scrophulariacea. 

Seeds  and  divisions.  After  becoming  established,  they 
propagate  themselves  by  seeds. 

Briobotrya.    See  Photinia. 

Eriodendron.     Malvacea. 

Raised  from  seeds  sown  in  sandy  soil,  in  heat. 
Eriostemon.     Rutacecz. 

Cuttings,  in  sandy  peat  in  spring,  under  glass,  and  with 
gentle  heat.  Nurserymen  propagate  by  grafting  on  small 
stocks  of  correa. 


232  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Erodium  (Heron's  Bill).     Geraniacea:, 

By  seeds  or  division. 
Eryngium  ( Eryngo ) .     Umbelliferce. 

Seeds  or  carefully  made  divisions  may  be  used  for  in- 
creasing the  species. 

Erysimum  (Hedge  Mustard).     Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds ;  the  perennials  by  seeds  and 
divisions. 

Erythraea  (Centaury).     Gentianacea. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  division. 
Erythrina  (Coral-tree).     Leguminoscs. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots  can  be  taken  in 
spring  or  early  summer  with  a  heel,  and  placed  in  sandy 
soil,  on  a  slight  bottom  heat. 

Erythronium  (Dog's-tooth  Violet).     Liliacea. 

Seeds.  Offsets  or  bulbels  are  usually  employed,  taken 
as  soon  as  the  leaves  dry  away  after  flowering,  inserting 
the  bulbels  about  three  inches  deep. 

Erythroxylon.    Linacece. 

Place  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand  under  a 
glass,  in  heat.  Seeds,  if  obtainable. 

Eschscholtzia  (California  Poppy).     Papaveracece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  autumn  where  the 
plants  are  to  flower. 

Eucalyptus  (Gum-tree).     Myrtacece. 

Increased  by  seeds, .  which,  for  culture  under  glass, 
should  be  sown  thinly  in  pans  or  pots  of  light,  sandy 
soil,  and  placed  in  frames.  Also  by  cuttings. 

Eucharis.     Amaryllidacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  warm  house. 
Offsets  or  bulbels  should  be  removed  and  potted  off 
singly. 

Eucomis.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  by  bulbels. 
Eugenia.    See  Myrtus. 
Eulalia.     See  Miscanthus, 


EUONYMUS — FAGUS.  233 

Euonymus  (Burning-bush,  Strawberry-tree,  Wahoo).     Celas- 

tracecs. 

Grown  from  seeds,  cuttings  and  layers.  Cuttings  usu- 
ally make  better  plants  than  layers.  The  deciduous  spe- 
cies are  usually  grown  from  hard-wood  cuttings,  but  the 
evergreen  kinds  are  started  under  glass,  from  cuttings  of 
the  growing  or  ripened  wood.  The  small  and  weak 
kinds  are  grafted  on  the  stronger  ones.  The  evergreen 
species  will  grow  upon  the  deciduous  kinds. 

Eupatorium  ( Boneset ) .     Composites. 

Cuttings  of  the  growing  wood,  under  glass  in  early 
spring,  is  the  common  method  of  propagation  of  the  con- 
servatory species.  Seeds  can  also  be  used  for  some 
species 

Euphorbia,  including  Poinsettia  (Spurge).     Euphorbiacece. 

By  seeds,  especially  the  annual  species.     The  perennial 

shrubby  sorts  are  increased  by  cuttings  in  a  strong  heat. 

Some  species  are  propagated  by  divisions.     See  Poinsettia. 

Eurycles.    Amaryllidacece. 

Offsets  or  bulbels,  in  spring. 

Euterpe.    Palmacecz. 
Seeds  in  heat. 

Eutoca.    See  Phacelia. 

Evening  Primrose.    See  CEnothera. 

Exochorda.     Rosacecz. 

Grown  from  seeds,  layers,  cuttings  and  suckers.  Lay- 
ering in  June  is  a  common  practice.  Various  kinds  of 
cuttings  are  employed,  but  the  best  results  follow  short, 
soft  cuttings,  taken  from  forced  plants  and  set  deep  in 
shallow  flats  of  sand.  They  require  a  very  strong  bottom 
heat,  a  close  frame,  and  the  water  should  be  applied  in  a 
spray  upon  the  foliage.  Cuttings  are  sometimes  grafted 
upon  pieces  of  roots.  It  has  been  regarded  as  a  difficult 
plant  to  propagate,  but  seeds  are  now  easily  procured 
from  cultivated  plants,  and  they  grow  readily 

Fagus  (Beech).     Cupulifer<z. 

Commonly  grown  from  the  nuts,  which  should  be  strat- 
ified and  sown  very  early  in  spring.  They  may  be  sown 
immediately  after  they  are  gathered,  if  they  can  be  pro- 
tected from  vermin.  The  named  varieties  are  grafted 


234  THE    NURSERY   LIST. 

upon  the  European  or  American  species.  (See  Fig.  115 
for  a  good  method. )  The  purple-leaved  beech  repro- 
duces itself  very  closely  by  seeds,  although  different  shades 
of  purple  will  appear  amongst  the  seedlings. 

Farfugium.     See  Senecio. 

Felicia.     Composites. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  inserted  in  sandy 
soil,  under  glass. 

Fennel  (Ff^niculum^  various  species).      Umbelliferce. 

Seeds,  usually  in  spring. 
Fennel  Flower.     See  Nigella. 

Fenugreek   (  Trigonella  Foenum-Graewri}.       Leguminosfz. 
Propagated  by  seeds. 

Ferns.     Filices. 

Where  division  is  possible,  it  is  the  easiest  and  most 
economical  method  of  propagation,  and  should  be  prac- 
ticed just  before  the  plant  starts  into  growth.  The  spores 
can  be  sown  in  February  and  March,  or  earlier,  under 
glass,  in  a  warm  propagating  pit.  Partly  fill  a  suitable 
sized  pot  or  pan  with  coarse  peat,  giving  plenty  of  drain- 
age ;  make  the  surface  level,  and  on  this  place  three- 
quarter  inch  cubes  of  well-seasoned  peat  which  is  rather 
dry,  watering  the  whole  and  scattering  on  the  spores 
evenly.  Cover  with  a  pane  of  glass,  and  place  in  a  partial 
shade.  While  the  process  which  corresponds  to  germina- 
tion is  going  on,  great  care  must  be  given  to  the  water 
supply.  This  is  sometimes  done  by  placing  the  pots  or 
pans  in  a  saucer,  from  which  they  can  suck  the  water  up. 
Overhead  watering  may  be  used,  and  often  is,  but  it  must 
be  done  with  great  care.  Be  certain  that  the  spores  are 
fully  ripe  when  gathered. 

The  young  plants  should  be  pricked  out  when  the  true 
leaf  appears,  and  they  are  large  enough  to  handle.  The 
same  careful  treatment  should  be  continued  until  they  are 
established  in  pots. 

There  is  not  much  difficulty  in  getting  the  young  plants, 
if  fresh  spores  are  obtainable,  but  there  is  a  good  deal  of 
trouble  in  handling  the  plantlets,  and  establishing  them 
in  their  growing  quarters. 

Most  ferns  are  readily  propagated  by  means  of  spores, 
as  directed  above  and  on  page  24.  Some  species  rarely 


FERNS — FICUS.  235 

produce  spores  in  cultivation,  however,  and  in  other  cases, 
as  in  some  tree  ferns,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  rear  the 
young  plants  after  the  spores  have  germinated.  In  all 
such  cases,  recourse  must  be  had  to  separation,  division  or 
layerage.  There  are  some  species,  as  Asplenium  bulbif- 
erum,  Cystopteris  bulbifera  and  others,  which  bear  small 
bulblets  or  detachable  buds  on  their  fronds.  These  buds 
often  vegetate  while  still  attached  to  the  frond.  They 
may  be  removed  either  before  or  after  showing  signs  of 
vegetation,  and  set  in  pots  in  a  close  propagating  frame, 
or  under  a  bell-glass.  Ferns  which  make  broad  crowns 
may  be  divided,  and  this  is  the  common  mode  with  many 
species.  Some  species  produce  creeping  roptstocks, 
which  emit  roots  if  pegged  down  into  a  pot  of  soil  or  on  a 
block  of  peat.  Several  plants  can  often  be  produced  from 
such  a  layer.  All  these  operations  are  best  performed  in 
late  winter,  before  the  new  growth  begins.  The  tree  ferns 
are  rarely  propagated  to  any  extent  in  cultivation,  but 
young  plants  are  imported  from  their  native  countries. 

Fern,  Sweet.    See  Comptonia. 

Ferraria,  Tigridia.     Iridacea. 

Propagated  by  means  of  seeds  and  bulbels. 

Feverfew.     See  Chrysanthemum. 

Ficus.     Urticacece. 

The  greenhouse  species  are  propagated  by  layers  and 
cuttings.  The  cuttings  are  handled  in  a  close  frame,  and 
a  leaf  or  two  is  usually  left  on  them.  For  Ficus  Carica^ 
see  Fig.  Propagation  by  seeds  is  sometimes  used  in  the 
edible  figs,  but  is  not  easy  with  the  ornamental  sorts. 
F.  elastica,  F.  Indica,  etc.,  are  increased  by  cuttings  (com- 
monly single-eye),  planted  in  sand  or  sandy  soil  or  sphag- 
num, and  placed  in  good  bottom  heat,  in  a  frame  under 
glass.  The  large  cuttings  should  be  staked,  and  care 
must  be  taken  to  remove  the  milky  juice  before  planting. 
Any  winter  month  is  good,  before  growth  begins.  Last 
season's  wood  should  be  used.  A  common  method  of 
multiplying  F.  elastica  (Rubber-plant)  is  by  means  of  Chi- 
nese or  air  layers  (see  page  41).  If  the  house  can  be  kept 
moist,  simply  a  ball  of  sphagnum  bound  on  the  stem  is 
sufficient,  without  the  use  of  a  split  pot  or  a  paper  cone  (as 
shown  in  Figs.  33  and  35).  Plants  of  considerable  size,  fit 
for  nursery  trade,  can  be  obtained  quicker  by  this  Chinese 
layering  (if  one  has  good  stock  plants)  than  by  cuttings. 


236  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Fig  (Ficus  Carica}.     Urticacecz. 

Figs  grow  readily  from  the  plump  seeds  in  the  commer- 
cial fruit.  Wash  out  the  seeds,  and  those  that  sink  mav 
be  sown  in  a  frame.  The  young  plants  will  appear  in 
three  or  four  weeks.  In  from  three  to  five  years  the 
plants  will  begin  to  bear.  New  varieties  are  obtained  in 
this  way. 

Varieties  of  the  fig  are  multiplied  with  ease  by  layers, 
suckers  and  cuttings.  Make  cuttings  of  mature  wood  in 
autumn,  cutting  just  below  a  bud.  Scarce  varieties  may 
be  multiplied  by  single-eye  cuttings.  Fig  cuttings  are 
handled  in  the  same  way  as  grape  cuttings.  Some  prefer, 
however,  to  place  the  cuttings  where  the  tree  is  to  stand. 
A  well-grown  plant  will  bear  at  two  or  three  years  of  age. 

The  fig  is  readily  budded  and  grafted,  but  these  meth- 
ods are  seldom  employed,  because  the  plant  is  so  easily 
multiplied  by  cuttings.  Shield,  ring  or  tubular  buddings 
are  employed.  Various  methods  of  grafting  are  adapted 
to  it,  and  cleft-grafting  is  usually  employed  on  old  plants. 

Filbert.    See  Corylus. 

Fir.     See  Abies,  Picea  and  Pinus. 

Fire-pink.     See  Silene. 

Fittonia.     Acanthacece. 

Increased  by  division,  and  by  cuttings  of  half  ripened 
shoots,  planted  in  sandy  loam,  in  bottom  heat. 

Fitzroya.     Coniferce. 

Seeds.  Increased  also  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened 
shoots. 

Flax.     See  Linum. 

Flower-de-Luce  (Fleur-de-Lis).     See  Iris. 

Fontanesia.     Oleacecs. 

Layers  are  used  ;  also  cuttings,  planted  under  a  hand- 
glass in  autumn.  Or  it  may  be  grafted  on  the  privet. 

Forget-me-not.     See  Myosotis. 

Forsythia  (Golden  Bell).     Oleacecz. 

Propagated  extensively  by  green  cuttings  in  summer,  in 
a  frame ;  also  grown  from  ripe  cuttings  taken  in  fall  and 
winter,  and  planted  in  the  open  air  in  early  spring. 


FOTHERGILLA — FUCHSIA.  237 

Fothergilla.     Hamamelidetz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  a  peaty  soil ;  by- 
layers. 

Four-O'clock.     See  Mirabilis. 
Foxglove.    See  Digitalis. 
Fragaria.     See  Strawberry. 
Franciscea.     See  Brunfelsia. 
Francoa.     Saxifragacece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  early  spring  in  a  cool  frame.  Also  by 
division. 

Frangula.     See  Rhamnus. 

Fraxinella.     See  Dictamnus. 

Fraxinus  (Ash).     Oleacecs. 

Propagated  chiefly  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified 
until  fall  or  the  spring  following  the  gathering.  The  seeds 
do  not  germinate  the  year  in  which  they  mature.  The 
named  sorts  are  budded  upon  seedling  stocks  if  the  sorts 
are  upright  growers,  or  top-grafted  if  they  are  weepers. 
Both  the  European  and  American  species  are  used  for 
stocks. 

Frecsia.     Iridacece. 

Increased  readily  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  pots 
of  light,  sandy  soil,  and  placed  in  a  sunny  position,  in  a 
cool  frame.  Commonly  by  bulbels. 

Freycinetia.     Pandanacece. 

Increased  by  offsets.     Seeds,  when  obtainable. 
Fringe-tree.     See  Chionanthus. 

Fritillaria.    Liliacecp. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  where  the  plants  are  to 
stand  the-  first  year.  Bulbels  and  division. 

Fuchsia  (Ladies'  Ear  Drop).     Onagracetz. 

Fuchsias  grow  readily  from  seeds,  which  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  blooming  plants  ought  to  be 
obtained  in  eight  or  ten  months.  Cuttings  of  the  young 
growth  strike  quickly  and  easily.  Blooming  plants  of 
most  sorts  can  be  obtained  in  four  or  five  months. 
Plants  for  winter  bloom  are  usually  started  in  late  spring. 


238  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Funkia  (Plantain  Lily,  White  D^-v  Lily).     Liliacea?. 

Propagation  is  effected  b>  Jividing  the  stools  during 
the  early  autumn,  or  when  they  begin  to  start  in  spring. 
Only  strong,  healthy  clumps  should  be  divided,  and  each 
portion  should  contain  several  crowns. 

Furze.    See  Ulex. 
Gaillardia.     Composite. 

The  annual  sorts  are  propagated  by  seeds  started  under 

glass;  the  perennial  kinds  by  seeds,  cuttings  or  division. 

Sometimes  root  cuttings  are  used. 

Galanthus  (Snowdrop).     Amaryllidacece. 

Commonly  by  bulbels.     Rarely  by  seeds. 
Galax.     Diapensiacece . 

Propagated  by  divisions  of  strong  clumps  in  autumn. 
Galcga  (Goat's  Rue).     Leguminostz. 

Seeds,  in  spring  ;  also  by  division. 
Galtonia  (Hyacinthus  candicans  of  gardeners).     Liliacetz. 

Increased  by  bulbels  or  seeds. 
Garcinia,  Cambogia,  Mangostana.     Guttiferce. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  should  be  inserted 
in  sand  under  a  glass,  in  strong  bottom  heat. 

Gardenia.     Rubiacecz. 

Strong,  healthy  cuttings  may  be  taken  with  a  heel,  early 
in  the  year  being  the  best  time,  but  any  season  will  do 
when  suitable  cuttings  can  be  secured.  They  should  be 
placed  in  bottom  heat  of  about  75°,  in  a  frame. 

Garlic  (Allium  sativum}.     Liliacece. 

By  "cloves"  or  divisions  of  the  bulb.  In  the  north 
these  are  planted  in  the  spring,  but  in  warm  climates 
they  may  be  planted  in  the  fall. 

Garrya,  including  Fadyenia.     Cornacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened 
wood  in  sandy  loam  in  August,  and  shaded  until  rooted. 
Also  by  budding  on  Aucuba  Japonica  at  the  crown. 
Plant  sufficiently  deep  to  cover  the  bud  or  graft. 

Gaultheria  (Boxberry,  Wintergreen).     Ericaceee. 

Increased  by  seeds,  divisions,  layers  and  cuttings  under 
glass. 


GAYLUSSACIA GILIA.  239 

Gaylussacia.     See  Vaccinium  and  Whortleberry. 

Gazania.     Composites. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  divisions.  Make  cuttings 
in  July  or  August,  from  the  side  shoots  near  the  base  of 
the  plant ;  these  should  be  placed  in  a  sandy  soil,  in  a 
frame. 

Gelsemium.     Loganiacetz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  under  glass. 

Genista.     See  Cytisus. 

Gentiana  (Gentian).     Gentianacetz. 

Seeds  and  division.  The  seeds  germinate  slowly,  and 
often  with  difficulty.  They  often  lie  dormant  a  year  or 
more.  They  should  be  sown  in  well-sifted  light  loam, 
in  pans  or  flats,  and  kept  cool  and  shaded.  Division 
must  be  carefully  done,  or  the  plants  will  suffer. 

Geonoma.     Palmacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  suckers. 

Geranium.     Geraniacece. 

Mostly  by  seeds  and  divisions.  For  the  conservatory 
plants  known  as  geraniums,  see  Pelargonium 

Gerardia.     Scrophulariacetz. 

Propagated,  but  often  with  difficulty,  by  seeds,  sown  in 
the  open  air  or  in  a  frame  or  cool  house.  Many  of  the 
species  are  partially  parasitic  on  roots. 

German  Ivy.     See  Senecio. 

Gesnera.     Gesneracecz . 

Seeds,  and  cuttings  of  the  shoots  and  leaves.  Handled 
in  essentially  the  same  manner  as  Sinningia,  which  see. 

Gethyllis.     Amaryllidacetz. 

They  may  be  increased  by  bulbels  or  seeds. 

Gherkin  ( Cucumis  Anguria\     Cucurbitacea. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds.     See  Cucumber. 

Gilia,  including  Fenzlia.     Polemoniacecs . 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  spring  in  the  open  ground  or 
frame,  in  a  rather  light  soil. 


24O  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Gillenia.     Rosace<z. 

Increased  readily  by  dividing  the  roots  in  spring  ;  also 
by  seeds. 

Gilliflower.    See  Matthiola. 

Ginger.     See  Zingiber. 

Ginkgo,  Salisburia  (Maidenhair- tree).     Conifertz. 

Seeds,  which  are  mostly  imported,  and  which  should 
be  stratified.  Seeds  are  now  produced  in  some  quantity 
in  this  country.  Also  by  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of  either 
green  or  ripe  wood.  The  cuttings  are  handled  under 
glass.  Named  varieties  are  grafted  upon  common  stocks. 

Ginseng  (Aralia,  or  Panax}.     Araliacecz. 

Cuttings  of  stems  and  roots.  Stems  of  old  plants  may 
be  cut  into  pieces  an  inch  or  two  long  and  inserted  in 
sand  in  heat.  Or  young  plants  can  be  obtained  by  cut- 
ting down  the  tops  of  strong  plants  and  then  separating 
the  suckers  which  arise. 

Gladiolus.    Iridacecs. 

Seeds,  which  are  commonly  sown  in  pans  in  spring,  in 
the  house ;  or  they  may  be  sown  in  the  border.  Seed- 
lings flower  in  two  or  three  years.  They  give  new 
varieties.  The  common  method  of  propagation  is  by 
means  of  cormels  (see  page  31,  and  Fig.  25).  These  are 
removed  from  the  parent  corm  and  planted  in  the  open, 
where  some  of  them  will  flower  the  same  season,  al- 
though most  of  them  will  require  a  season's  independent 
growth  before  they  flower.  If  cormels  are  desired  in 
abundance,  the  large  corms  should  not  be  allowed  to 
flower.  Some  varieties  do  not  produce  cormels  readily, 
and  these  may  be  made  to  bear  them  by  cutting  or  ring- 
•  ing  (page  31)  One  or  more  new  corms  are  formed 
above  the  old  one  each  year  ( Fig.  25). 

Gleditschia  ( Honey  Locust ) .     Leguminoscz. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  spring  about  one  inch  deep. 
They  should  be  soaked  in  hot  water  before  being  sown. 
Varieties  propagated  by  grafts  upon  seedling  stock. 

Gleichenia.    See  Ferns. 
Globe  Flower.    See  Trollius. 
Gloriosa.     Liliacece. 

Seeds  should    be   inserted   singly  in   small  pots,  in   a 


GLOXINIA GOOSEBERRY.  24! 

light,  sandy  soil,  and  plunged  in  bottom  heat.  Bulbels, 
which  should  be  carefully  removed  from  the  old  bulbs 
when  starting  them  in  spring,  as  the  roots  are  very  brittle. 

Gloxinia.     See  Sinningia. 
Glycosmis.     Rutacecs. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings,  which  are  commonly 
inserted  in  sand  under  glass,  often  in  heat. 

Glycyrrhiza  ( Liquorice ) .     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  division  and  by  seeds. 
Godetia.     See  CEnothera. 
Golden  Rod.    See  Solidago. 
Gomphocarpus.     Asclepiadacece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  under  glass  in  spring ;  or  cut- 
tings may  be  made  of  small  side  shoots  when  the  plant 
is  commencing  new  growth,  and  placed  in  sand  under 
glass. 

Gomphrena.     See  Celosia. 

Gonolobus.    Asclepiadacea. 

Seeds,  divisions,  and  cuttings  under  glass. 

Goober.    See  Arachis. 

Gooseberry  (Ribes    Grossularia  and    R.   oxyacanthoides}. 

Saxifragacecz. 

Seeds,  for  the  raising  of  new  varieties,  should  be  sown 
as  soon  as  well  cured,  in  loamy  or  sandy  soil,  or  they 
may  be  stratified  and  sown  together  with  the  sand  in  the 
spring.  Cuttings  6  to  8  inches  long  of  the  mature  wood, 
inserted  two-thirds  their  length,  usually  grow  readily, 
especially  if  taken  in  August  or  September  and  stored 
during  winter,  in  the  same  way  as  currant  cuttings  ( Fig. 
65).  Single  eye  cuttings  may  be  used  for  rare  kinds. 
Stronger  plants  are  usually  obtained  by  layers,  and  the 
English  varieties  are  nearly  always  layered  in  this  coun- 
try (although  frequently  grown  from  cuttings  in  England). 
Mound-layering  is  usually  employed  (the  mounding  being 
done  in  June,  or  when  the  new  growth  has  reached  sev^ 
era!  inches),  the  English  varieties  being  allowed  to  re^ 
main  on  the  stools  two  years,  but  the  American  varieties 
only  one  (Fig.  32).  Much  depends  upon  the  variety. 
The  Downing,  for  example,  usually  makes  a  merchant- 


242  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

able  plant  in  one  year  after  transplanting  from  the  stools, 
but  Smith  Improved  may  require  a  year  more.  Layered 
plants  are  usually  set  in  nursery  rows  for  a  year  after 
removal  from  the  stools.  Green-layering  during  summer 
is  sometimes  practiced  for  new  or  rare  varieties.  Strong 
plants  may  also  be  procured  by  tip-layering,  as  in  the 
black  raspberry  (see  page  36).  If  it  is  desired  to  train 
the  weaker  gooseberries  in  tree  form,  they  may  be  grafted 
upon  the  stronger-growing  varieties. 

Gordonia.      Ternstrcemiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  layers. 

Gorse.    See  Ulex. 

Goumi.     See  Elaeagnus. 

Gourds  (  Cucurbita  Pepo,  Lagenaria,  etc. ).     Cucurbitacecs. 
Seeds,  after  the  weather  is  settled  and  ground  is  warm. 

Granadilla  ( Passiflora  edulis,  etc. )     Passifloracece. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  or,  less  easily,  by  cuttings. 

Grape  (  Vitis,  several  species).     Vitacecz. 

Grape  seedlings  are  very  easily  grown.  If  the  ground 
is  fit  and  there  is  no  danger  from  vermin,  the  seeds  may 
be  sown  in  the  fall,  but  they  are  usually  stratified  and 
sown  in  spring.  They  come  readily  if  sown  outdoors,  but 
some  prefer  to  force  them  under  glass  with  a  mild  bottom 
heat.  Seedlings  do  not  "come  true,"  and  they  are  there- 
fore grown  only  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  new  sorts. 

The  grape  is  very  readily  multiplied  by  layers,  either  of 
the  ripe  or  green  wood.  The  ripe  wood  or  canes  may  be 
layered  either  in  fall  or  spring,  but  spring  is  usually 
chosen.  The  cane  is  simply  covered  up  2  or  3  inches 
deep,  and  nearly  every  bud  will  produce  a  plant.  In 
August  or  September  the  layer  should  be  lifted  and  cut  up 
into  plants.  Better  plants  are  obtained  if  only  the  strong- 
est canes  are  used  and  only  a  part  of  the  buds  on  each  are 
allowed  to  grow.  The  cane  is  usually  cut  back  to  four  or 
five  buds,  or  if  very  strong  plants  are  desired  only  one  bud 
is  left  on  each  layer.  Canes  of  the  previous  year,  those 
recently  matured,  are  preferred,  although  wood  two  or 
three  years  old  may  be  used,  but  in  this  case  it  is  usually 
necessary  to  cut  or  otherwise  wound  the  joint  in  order  to 
induce  the  formation  of  roots.  Vines  or  stools  grown  for 
the  production  of  layers  should  be  cut  back  severely  in 
fall  or  winter,  to  induce  a  vigorous  growth  of  canes  the 


GRAPE.  243 

Grape,  continued 

following  season.  These  canes  are  then  layered  the  suc- 
ceeding fall  or  spring.  Only  a  part  of  the  canes  are  lay- 
ered from  any  stool,  a  part  being  allowed  to  grow  for 
cutting  back  the  next  fall  in  order  to  get  another  crop  of 
canes.  In  some  varieties  which  do  not  strike  readily  from 
cuttings,  layering  is  considerably  practiced  by  nursery- 
men. The  Delaware  is  often  grown  in  this  way.  Extra 
strong  layers  can  be  secured  by  layering  in  pots.  A  large 
pot,  filled  with  rich  soil,  is  plunged  beneath  the  layer.  In 
this  manner  a  layer  may  be  rooted  and  separated  even 
while  carrying  fruit.  Layering  in  pots  is  employed  only  in 
special  cases.  In  vineyards,  layering  is  often  employed 
for  the  purpose  of  filling  vacancies.  A  strong  cane  is  left, 
without  pruning,  on  a  neighboring  vine  in  the  same  row, 
and  in  the  spring  the  end  of  it  is  laid  down  in  the  vacant 
place.  The  vine  is  covered  about  a  half  foot  deep,  and 
the  free  end  of  it  is  turned  up  perpendicularly  out  of  the 
soil  and  tied  to  a  stake.  By  fall  or  the  following  spring 
the  layer  should  be  sufficiently  rooted  to  allow  the  parent 
cane  to  be  cut  away. 

Green-layering  is  sometimes  practiced  upon  new  and 
scarce  varieties,  but  strong  plants  are  not  obtained  unless 
they  are  well  handled  by  forceful  culture  after  they  are 
separated.  The  growing  cane  is  layered  in  midsummer, 
usually  by  serpentine  layering. 

Cuttings  are  usually  employed  by  nurserymen  to  propa- 
gate the  grape.  These  are  made  in  many  fashions.  In 
all  ordinary  cases  hard-wood  cuttings  are  made  from  the 
ripened  canes  in  autumn  or  winter  when  the  vines  are 
pruned.  It  is  advisable  to  take  the  cuttings  before  the 
canes  have  been  exposed  to  great  cold.  Select  only  those 
canes  which  are  well  matured,  solid  and  rather  short- 
jointed.  In  common  practice,  the  cuttings  are  cut  into 
two-bud  lengths,  the  lower  cut  being  made  close  to  the 
bud.  The  cuttings  will  range  from  6  to  10  inches  in 
length.  Some  prefer  three-bud  cuttings  (Fig.  59),  but 
unless  the  cane  is  very  short-jointed,  such  cuttings  are  too 
long  to  be  planted  and  handled  economically.  Three- 
bud  cuttings  usually  give  stronger  plants  the  first  season, 
because  roots  start  from  both  joints  as  a  rule.  Very 
strong  plants  are  obtained  from  mallet  cuttings  (Fig.  61), 
but  as  only  one  such  cutting  can  be  made  from  a  cane, 
unless  the  cane  bears  very  strong  branches,  they  are  not 
much  used.  Various  methods  of  peeling,  slitting  and 
slicing  cuttings  are  recommended,  in  order  to  extend  the 


244  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Grape,  continued. 

callusing  process,  but  they  are  not  used  in  common  or 
commercial  practice.  The  cuttings  are  tied  in  bundles  of 
50  or  10  ,  and  stored  in  sand,  moss,  or  sawdust  in  a  cellar, 
until  spring,  when  they  are  planted  in  rows  in  the  open. 
Some  varieties,  of  which  the  Delaware  is  an  example,  do 
not  strike  readily  from  cuttings.  Some  growers  start 
common  cuttings  of  these  under  glass  in  spring.  Others 
bury  the  bundles  of  cuttings  in  a  warm  exposure  in  the 
fall,  with  the  butt  ends  up  and  about  level  with  the  surface 
of  the  ground.  This  affords  bottom  heat  to  the  butts  and 
induces  callusing.  (See  page  57. )  At  the  approach  of  cold 
weather  the  cuttings  are  removed  to  a  cellar,  or  are  heavily 
mulched  and  allowed  to  remain  where  buried.  Storing  is 
safer.  Some  growers  obtain  the  same  results  by  burying 
upside  down  in  a  cellar.  These  slow-rooting  sorts  often 
start  well  if  they  are  simply  kept  in  a  warm  cellar — but 
where  the  buds  will  not  swell— all  winter,  as  the  callusing 
is  then  hastened.  At  the  end  of  the  first  season  the  plants 
may  be  transplanted.  The  plants  are  often  sold  at  this 
age,  but  buyers  usually  prefer  two-year-old  plants. 

Single  bud  or  "eye"  cuttings  are  largely  used  for  the 
newer  and  rarer  varieties.  These  are  cut  from  the  canes 
in  the  fall,  the  same  as  long  cuttings,  and  are  stored  in 
boxes  of  sand  or  moss.  A  month  before  the  weather 
becomes  settled,  these  boxes  may  be  taken  into  a  house 
or  greenhouse,  or  put  in  a  mild  hotbed,  to  induce  the  for- 
mation of  the  callus.  They  may  then  be  planted  out- 
doors, and  a  fair  proportion  of  most  varieties  may  be 
expected  to  grow.  The  best  and  commonest  way  of  han- 
dling eyes,  however,  is  to  start  them  under  glass.  They 
are  planted  horizontally,  or  nearly  so,  and  about  an  inch 
deep  in  sand  or  sandy  earth,  in  a  cool  greenhouse  in  late 
winter— in  February  in  the  northern  states— and  in  about 
six  weeks  the  plants  will  be  large  enough  to  pot  off  or  to 
transplant  into  coldframes  or  a  cool  house.  If  only  a  few 
plants  are  to  be  grown,  they  may  be  started  in  pots. 
When  the  weather  is  thoroughly  settled,  they  are  trans- 
ferred to  nursery  rows,  and  by  fall  they  will  make  strong 
plants.  There  are  various  ways  recommended  for  the  cut- 
ting of  these  eyes — as  cutting  the  ends  obliquely  up  or 
down,  shaving  off  the  bark  below  the^bud,  and  so  on — but 
the  advantages  of  these  fashions  are  imaginary.  A  good 
eye-cutting  is  shown  in  Fig.  66.  The  foreign  grapes  are 
propagated  by  eyes  in  the  north. 

Soft  cuttings  are  sometimes  used  to  multiply  new  kinds. 


GRAPE.  245 

Grape,  continued. 

These  may  be  taken  in  summer  from  the  growing  canes, 
but  the  plants  are  usually  forced  during  winter  for  the  pur- 
pose of  giving  the  extra  wood.  Cuttings  are  taken  off  as 
fast  as  buds  form  during  the  winter,  and  they  are  forced  in 
close  frames  with  a  good  bottom  heat.  The  cuttings  may 
comprise  two  buds,  with  the  leaf  at  the  upper  one  allowed 
to  remain,  or  they  may  bear  but  a  single  eye,  in  which 
case  the  leaf,  or  the  most  of  it,  is  left  on.  This  rapid 
multiplication  from  small,  soft  wood  usually  gives  poor 
plants  ;  but  strong  plants  may  be  obtained  by  allowing  the 
wood  to  become  well  hardened  before  it  is  used.  Soft  cut- 
tings will  root  in  two  or  three  weeks  under  gbod  treatment. 

In  order  to  secure  extra  strong  plants  from  single  buds, 
the  eyes  may  be  saddle-grafted  or  whip-grafted  upon  a 
root  2  or  3  inches  long.  The  root  grafts  are  then  treated 
in  the  same  way  as  eye  cuttings,  only  that  they  are  usually 
grown  in  pots  from  the  start. 

The  vine  may  be  grafted  with  ease  by  any  method. 
Cleft-grafting  is  commonly  employed  upon  old  plants. 
The  cions  are  inserted  on  the  crown  of  the  plant,  three  or 
four  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  cleft  is 
bound  with  string,  and  then  covered  with  earth,  no  wax 
being  necessary.  The  best  time  to  perform  the  operation 
is  very  early  in  spring,  before  the  sap  starts.  Vines  may 
be  grafted  late  in  spring  also,  after  danger  of  bleeding  is 
past,  if  the  cions  are  kept  perfectly  dormant.  Vines  are 
sometimes  grafted  in  the  fall,  but  this  practice  cannot  be 
recommended  in  the  north.  Young  plants  are  usually 
whip-grafted  at  the  crown,  either  indoors  or  outdoors. 
Grafting  the  vine  is  mostly  confined  to  Europe,  Califor- 
nia, and  other  countries  where  the  European  grape  (  Vitis 
vinifera]  is  grown,  as  that  species  must  be  grafted  upon 
some  other  stock  in  order  to  resist  the  phylloxera.  The 
common  wild  frost-grape  (  Vitis  riparia)  is  the  most  pop- 
ular stock.  The  union  in  these  cases  must  be  two  or 
three  inches  above  the  ground,  to  prevent  the  cion  from 
taking  root.  The  union  is  wound  with  waxed  muslin, 
and  the  earth  is  heaped  about  it  until  it  has  healed. 
Grapes  can  be  grafted  by  the  cleft-graft  below  ground  as 
readily  as  pears  or  apples  can  be  worked.  For  pictures 
of  various  methods  of  grafting  the  grape,  see  Figs.  107, 
113,  114,  116,  124,  125.  The  last  (125)  is  the  best  type 
for  general  use  on  old  vines. 

The  vine  is  frequently  inarched,  and  early  in  spring  it 
can  be  budded  by  ordinary  methods. 


246  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Grape,  continued. 

Seed-grafting  is  a  curious  practice,  which  may  be  ap- 
plied to  the  grape  (see  page  131). 

There  is  so  much  misapprehension  respecting  the 
methods  and  results  of  the  grafting  of  grapes,  that  the 
following  directions  by  the  veteran  viticulturist,  George 
Husmann,  now  of  Napa,  California  (as  given  in  Ameri- 
can Agriculturist,  1896),  are  here  transcribed  in  full : 

"A  good,  thin-bladed,  sharp  knife  to  cut  the  cions,  a 
sharp  saw  to  cut  off  large  stocks — the  smaller  ones  can 
be  cut  with  good  pruning  shears— a  chisel  for  grafting 
having  a  blade  2>£  or  3  inches  broad  in  the  middle  and  a 
wedge  on  each  side  [a  knife  with  but  a  single  wedge,  as 
in  Figs.  1 20  and  121,  will  answer  the  same  purpose],  a 
wooden  mallet,  and  a  few  strings  of  raffia,  or  other  ban- 
dage, in  case  a  stock  should  need  tying,  which  is  seldom 
the  case — are  the  implements  necessary  for  grafting. 
The  cions  should  be  of  selected  wood,  the  size  of  a  lead- 
pencil,  or  somewhat  larger,  cut  some  time  in  winter,  tied 
in  bundles,  and  buried  their  entire  length  on  the  shady 
side  of  a  building,  or  under  a  tree,  to  keep  them  dormant. 
Short-jointed,  firm  wood  is  to  be  preferred.  All  can  be 
carried  in  a  basket,  if  one  intends  to  perform  the  opera- 
tion alone.  If  several  are  to^work  together,  of  course  the 
tools  must  be  divided  accordingly.  In  California  we  work 
generally  in  gangs  of  three,  the  first  man  clearing  away 
the  ground  from  the  stock  until  he  comes  to  a  smooth 
plaqe  for  inserting  the  cion,  whether  this  be  at  the  surface 
or  slightly  below.  The  former  is  preferable  if  resistant 
vines  are  to  be  grafted  with  non-resistant  cions.  He  then 
cuts  off  the  stock  horizontally  about  an  inch  and  a  halt 
above  a  knot  or  joint.  The  next  man  cuts  the  cions  to  a 
smooth,  long,  sloping  wedge  just  below  a  bud  [as  shown 
in  Fig.  119],  then  splits  the  stock,  either  with  pruning 
shears  or  chisel,  according  to  its  size.  If  the  stock  is  not 
more  than  an  inch  in  diameter,  the  shears  are  best,  as 
only  one  cion  is  to  be  inserted.  Keep^the  blade  of  the 
shears  on  the  side  where  the  cion  is  to  join  the  stock,  so 
as  to  prevent  bruising,  and  make  a  long,  smooth,  sloping 
cut,  a  little  transversely  if  possible,  as  the  junction  will 
thereby  become  all  the  more  perfect.  Then  push  the 
wedge  of  the  cion  firmly  down  into  the  cleft,  taking  care 
that  the  inner  bark  or  fiber  of  stock  and  cion  are  well 
joined,  as  on  this  principally  depends  the  success  of  the 
operation.  To  open  the  cleft,  the  wedges  on  the  chisel 
are  used  if  necessary.  An  expert  will  depend  very  little 


y/M       'i 

m  .;; 

GRAPE.  /.'       247 

Grape,  continued. 

on  these,  unless  the  stocks  are  very  heavy,  but  will  open 
the  cleft  with  knife  or  shears,  and  then  push  down  the 
cion  to  its  proper  place.  The  inner  side  of  the  cion,  oppo- 
site the  bud,  should  be  somewhat  thinner,  so  that  the 
stock  will  close  firmly  on  it ;  the  cion  should  also  be  in- 
serted far  enough  so  that  the  bud  is  just  above  the  hori- 
zontal cut  on  the  stock.  The  third  man  follows,  presses 
a  little  moist  earth  on  the  surface  of  the  stock,  and  then 
hills  up  around  the  junction  to  the  uppermost  buds  of  the 
cion  with  well-pulverized  soil,  taking  care  not  to  move 
the  cion,  and  the  operation  is  finished.  It  becomes  neces- 
sary sometimes  to  tie  the  stock,  when  it  is  not  large 
enough  or  from  some  defect  in  grafting  it  does  not  firmly 
hold  the  cion.  In  such  a  case,  pass  a  string  of  raffia  or 
some  other  flat  bandage  firmly  around  the  stock  and  tie 
it,  but  in  no  case  use  grafting  wax  or  clay,  as  the  strong 
flow  of  sap  from  all  the  pores  is  apt  to  drown  and  sour 
the  cion,  while  without  obstructing  it,  it  will  flow  around 
the  stock,  serving  to  keep  the  junction  moist  and  facilitate 
the  union.  As  the  whole  operation  is  covered  with  earth, 
there  is  no  danger  of  drying  up,  as  is  sometimes  the  case 
when  fruit  trees  are  top-grafted. 

"A  very  important  consideration,  to  insure  success,  is 
to  equalize  the  stock  and  cion.  If,  therefore,  large  stocks 
are  to  be  grafted,  we  must  have  strong,  well-developed 
wood  for  the  cions,  and  have  buds  enough  to  take  up  the 
full  flow  of  sap,  while  small  stocks,  if  used  at  all,  should 
be  grafted  with  small  cions  of  only  two  or  three  buds. 
When  the  stocks  are  strong,  I  take  two  cions  and  insert 
one  on  each  side  of  the  stock,  of  full  length,  say  from  14 
to  16  inches,  and  with  six  to  eight  buds  each.  This  has 
many  advantages.  The  principal  one  is  that  they  will 
elaborate  and  work  up  the  entire  flow  of  sap.  Another 
is,  that  if  the  cions  have  well-developed  fruit  buds,  they 
will  produce  quite  a  number  of  clusters  from  the  upper 
buds,  and  thus  show  the  character  of  the  fruit  the  first 
year.  I  have  picked  a  thousand  pounds  of  grapes  from 
an  acre  thus  grafted,  the  first  summer,  and  a  full  crop  of 
five  or  six  tons  per  acre  the  following  season.  Another 
advantage  is  that  it  establishes  the  crown  of  the  graft  at 
the  right  distance  from  the  ground,  as  the  three  upper 
buds  will  produce  the  canes  for  the  next  season's  bearing. 
If  both  cions  grow,  cut  off  the  weakest  above  the  junction 
the  next  spring,  leaving  only  the  strongest.  I  generally 
find  that  the  whole  surface  of  the  stock  is  covered  bv  the 


248       -1N  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Grape,  concluded. 

new  growth,  and  that  the  junction  between  stock  and 
cion  is  perfect.  Another  advantage  is — especially  in  Cali- 
fornia, where  we  plow  and  cultivate  close  to  the  vines, 
and  where  some  of  the  workmen  are  careless  —they  are 
more  apt  to  run  over  and  disturb  the  small  grafts  than 
the. large  ones,  which  are  protected  by  hills  of  earth  above 
the  surface ;  nor  are  the  young  shoots  disturbed  and 
broken  so  easily  by  careless  hands  or  high  winds.  A 
stake  should  be  driven  close  to  the  graft  immediately 
after  grafting  is  finished,  and  the  young  shoots,  when  they 
appear,  tied  to  it  for  support,  as  they  generally  start  vig- 
orously and  are  easily  broken  off,  or  blown  off  by  high 
winds.  Do  not  be  discouraged  if  some  time  elapses  be- 
fore they  start.  I  have  often  had  them  remain  dormant 
until  July  or  August,  and  then  make  a  rapid  growth.  If 
suckers  from  the  stock  appear — as  is  generally  the  case — 
they  should  be  removed  at  once,  taking  care  to  cut  them 
close  to  the  stock,  so  as  to  have  no  stumps  or  dormant 
buds.  Tying  and  suckering  should  be  repeated  every 
week  or  ten  days  at  least.  As  long  as  the  cion  remains 
fresh  and  green  it  may  begin  growing  at  any  time.  Of 
course,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  disturb  the  cion.  If 
everything  does  well,  there  will  be  three  or  four  canes 
from  the  upper  buds,  which  may  be  pruned  just  as  any 
other  bearing  vines." 

Grape  Hyacinth.    See  Muscari. 

Grevillea.     Proteacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  under  glass  in  late  winter ; 
also  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood. 

Grewia.     Tiliacea;. 

Seeds.     Cuttings   may  be   struck  in  sand  under  glass, 
with  heat. 

Grindelia.     Composites. 

Seeds,  sown  in  the  border  or  under  a  frame.     Divisions. 
Cuttings. 

Ground-Cherry.    See  Physalis. 

Ground-Nut.     See  Apios  ;  also  Peanut  (under  Arachis). 

Groundsel.    See  Senecio. 

Guaiacum.     Zygophyllacece. 

Ripened  cuttings  in  spring,  under  a  nand-glass,  in  heat. 


GUAVA H^MODORUM.  249 

Guava  (Psidium,  several  species).     Myrtacecs. 

The  guavas  grow  readily  from  seeds,  and  plants  will 
often  bloom  when  a  year  and  a-half  old.  They  may  also 
be  multiplied  by  layers,  and  by  cuttings  either  under  glass 
or  in  the  open. 

Guelder  Rose.     See  Viburnum. 
Guernsey  Lily.    See  Nerine. 
Gumbo.    See  Okra. 
Gum,  Sweet.    See  Liquidambar. 
Gum-tree.    See  Eucalyptus. 
Gunnera.     Haloragece. 

Propagated  by  division.  It  is  very  difficult  to  raise 
from  seed. 

Gymnocladus  (Kentucky  Coffee-tree).     Leguminosce. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  which  start  better  if  soaked 
fur  a  few  hours  in  hot  water.  Also  by  root-cuttings. 

Gymnogramme.    See  Ferns. 
Gymnyostachys.     Aroidece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  suckers  and  divisions. 
Gynerium  (Pampas  Grass).     Graminecz. 

Seeds,  under  glass  in  the  north.  Also  increased  by 
dividing  the  tufts. 

Gynura.     Composite \ 

Increased  easily  by  cuttings  and  seeds. 

Gypsophila.     Caryophyllacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings. 

Habrothamnus.     See  Cestrum. 
Hackberry.    See  Celtis. 

Haemanthus  (Blood  Flower).     Amaryllidacetz. 

Bulbels,  which  should  be  removed  and  potted  when  the 
plants  are  commencing  new  growth,  and  be  kept  in  a 
close  pit  or  house  till  established.  Seeds  are  rarely  used. 

Haemodorum  (Australian  Blood  root).     H&modoracece. 
Increased  by  dividing  the  roots  in  spring. 


250  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Hakea.     Proteacece. 

Well-ripened  cuttings,  placed  in  sandy  peat  under  glass, 
in  a  cool  house.  Seeds,  when  obtainable,  can  be  used. 

Halesia  (Silver-bell,  or  Snowdrop  Tree).     Styracacece. 

Seeds,  which  rarely  germinate  till  the  second  year. 
They  should  be  stratified  or  kept  constantly  moist.  'Pro- 
pagation is  also  effected  by  layers,  or  by  cuttings  of  the 
roots  in  spring  and  autumn.  Layers  are  commonly  em- 
ployed in  this  country. 

Halimodendron  (Salt-tree).     Leguminoste. 

Freely  increased  by  seeds,  layers  or  cuttings.  May  also 
be  grafted  on  common  laburnum. 

Hamamelis  (Witch-hazel).     Hamamelidece. 

All  grow  from  seeds  or  layers,  and  the  Japan  species 
succeed  if  grafted  on  American  species  in  the  greenhouse. 
H.  Virginica  may  be  readily  propagated  by  layers. 

Hamelia.     Rubiacecz. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  which  are  nearly  ripe  will  root  during 
the  early  part  of  summer  under  glass,  with  heat. 

Hamiltonia.     Rubiacea. 

Seeds.  Half-ripened  cuttings,  placed  in  sand  under 
glass. 

Hardenbergia.     Leguminostc. 

Seeds  may  be  used  ;  also  increased  by  division.  Cut- 
tings, made  of  the  firm  young  side  shoots  in  spring,  will 
grow  if  inserted  under  a  bell-glass,  and  placed  in  a  warm 
frame  or  pit,  without  bottom  heat. 

Harebell.     See  Campanula. 
Harpalium.     See  Helianthus. 
Haw,  Hawthorn.     See  Crataegus. 
Hazel.     See  Corylus. 
Heartsease.     See  Viola. 
Heath.    See  Erica. 
Heather.     See  Calluna  ;  also  Erica 
Hedera(Ivy).     Araliacetf. 

Seeds.  Layers.  The  rooted  portions  of  the  vine  may 
be  severed  and  treated  as  independent  plants.  Cuttings 


HEDYCHIUM HELIOTROPIUM.  251 

may  be  made  in  autumn  from  any  firm  shoots,  and  in- 
serted in  pots  or  in  the  open  ground.  If  they  are  placed 
in  heat  and  kept  shaded  until  roots  are  formed,  good 
plants  are  obtained  much  sooner  than  when  placed  in  a 
coldframe  or  in  the  open  air.  Named  varieties  are 
grafted  on  the  stock  of  any  common  strong  climbing  form. 

Hedychium  (Indian  Garland  Flower).     Scitaminecz. 

Seeds,  rarely.  Increased  by  dividing  the  rhizomes  in 
spring,  when  the  plants  are  repotted. 

Hedysarum.     Leguminosa . 

Propagation  is  effected  by  means  of  seeds  and  division. 
Helenium.     Composites. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  divisions. 
Helianthemum  (Rock-Rose,  Sun-Rose).     Cistacecz. 

The  annuals  are  raised  from  seeds.  The  perennials 
may  also  be  raised  from  seeds,  but  it  is  better  to  trust  to 
layers  and  to  cuttings,  which  will  root  freely  in  a  sandy 
soil,  if  kept  shaded  until  established. 

Helianthus,  including  Harpalium  (Sunflower).     Composite?. 
By  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  pots,  and  the  seedlings 
transferred,  or  in  the  open  ground  in  spring.     Also  divi- 
sions.    Of  perennial  sorts,  use  the  underground  shoots  or 
"creepers,"  treating  as  for  cuttings. 

Helichrysum,  Elichrysum  (Everlastings).     Composites. 

The  annual  species  and  the  varieties  of  H.  bracteatum 
may  be  raised  from  seed,  sown  in  a  light  heat  in  early 
spring,  and  afterwards  transplanted  ;  or  sown  in  the  open 
ground  a  little  later.  The  perennial  species  are  increased 
by  cuttings  in  spring,  in  a  close  frame  without  heat. 

Heliconia.     Scitaminece. 

iVfay  be  increased  by  seeds,  but  the  best  method  is  by 
division  of  the  rootstock  in  spring  when  growth  com- 
mences. Separate  pieces  may  be  placed  in  pots,  and 
grown  in  a  moist  stove  temperature,  repotting  when  neces- 
sary ;  or  they  may  be  planted  out  in  the  stove,  if  desired. 

Heliotropium  (Heliotrope).     Borraginacece. 

Seeds.  The  common  practice  is  to  use  cuttings.  These 
can  be  taken  at  almost  any  season,  if  good  growing  shoots 
are  to  be  had.  They  start  readily  in  sand  or  soil  on  a  cut- 
ting bench,  or  under  a  frame.  Plants  for  bedding  are 


252  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

struck  in  late  winter  from  stocks  which  are  in  a  vigorous 
condition. 

Helipterum,  including  Rhodanthe.     Composites. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  early  spring,  under  cover. 

Helleborus  (Black  Hellebore,  Christmas  Rose).     Ranuncu- 

lacecz. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Strong  and 
healthy  root  divisions  are  also  employed.  See,  also, 
Veratrum. 

Helonias.     Liliacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  and  slowly  by  root 
divisions. 

Hemerocallis  (Day  Lily).     Liliace<z. 

Increased  by  divisions.  H.  Middendorfii  and  some 
others  by  seeds. 

Hemlock  Spruce  (  Tsuga  Canadensis).     Conifercs. 

Seeds.  Named  varieties  top-worked  on  seedlings. 
Handled  the  same  as  Abies  and  Picea,  which  see. 

Hemp.    See  Cannabis. 
Hepatica.    Ranunculacetz . 

Can  be  propagated  by  division  ;  also  by  seeds. 

Heracleum  (Cow  Parsley,  Cow  Parsnip).     Umbellifera '. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds  or  divisions. 
Herbert  ia.    Iridacecz. 

Propagated  by  means  of  seeds  or  bulbels. 

Hesperis  (Dame's  Violet,  Rocket).     Crucifercz. 

The  single  sorts  are  increased  by  seeds;  the  double 
forms  by  carefully  dividing  the  roots,  or  by  cuttings. 

Heuchera  (Alum  Root).     Saxifragace<z. 

Seeds.  Readily  increased  by  dividing  the  crowns  dur- 
ing spring. 

Hibiscus.    Malvacecz. 

Seeds.  Also  by  divisions  and  layers.  Cuttings  ot 
green  wood  are  commonly  used,  made  in  summer  for 
hardy  species  or  in  early  spring  for  tender  ones.  Cuttings 
of  ripened  wood  may  be  taken  in  fall,  and  stored  until 


HICORIA — HOLLY.  253 

spring  in  a  rather  dry  place.     The  variegated  sorts  do  bet- 
ter if  grafted  upon  strong  stocks. 

Hicoria,  Carya  (Hickory,  Pecan,  etc.).    Juglandacees. 

Increased  chiefly  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  or 
planted  (about  3  inches  deep)  as  soon  as  ripe;  also  by 
root-sprouts.  Seeds  are  sometimes  planted  at  intervals  in 
the  field  where  the  trees  are  to  stand ;  but  this  practice 
is  not  to  be  recommended.  Cuttings  of  the  ends  of  grow- 
ing roots  are  often  successful.  The  hickory  can  be 
grafted.  Best  results  are  probably  obtained  by  veneer  or 
splice-grafting  in  winter,  on  potted  stocks.  Cleft-grafting 
can  be  employed  outdoors,  however,  the  stub  being  cut 
3  to  6  inches  below  the  ground,  and  the  cions  covered 
with  earth,  as  for  grafting  the  grape.  The  cions  must  be 
perfectly  dormant,  and  are  safer,  therefore,  if  they  have 
been  kept  on  ice  or  in  a  very  cold  cellar.  Saddle-grafting 
upon  young  twigs  is  sometimes  used.  Shield-  and  flute- 
budding  often  succeed  in  the  hickories,  as,  in  fact,  many 
kinds  of  graftage  do  ;  but  the  skill  of  the  operator  is  more 
important  than  the  method.  See  also  Pecan. 

Hippeastrum  (Equestrian  Star).     Amaryllidacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  well-drained  pots 
or  pans  of  sandy  loam,  slightly  covered,  and  placed  in  a 
temperature  of  about  65°.  For  increasing  by  divisions — 
which  is  the  usual  way — the  old  bulbs  should  be  taken 
from  the  pots  and  carefully  separated,  with  the  least  pos- 
sible injury  to  the  roots.  This  should  be  done  when  the 
plants  are  at  rest,  and  the  offsets  should  be  placed  singly 
in  pots.  Keep  the  bulb  about  two-thirds  above  the  level 
of  the  soil,  dispose  the  roots  evenly,  and  plunge  in  bottom 
heat,  in  a  position  exposed  to  the  light. 

Hippophae  (Sallow  Thorn,  Sea  Buckthorn).     Elczagnacea. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  suckers,  layers,  and  cuttings 
of  the  roots. 

Hoffmannia,  Higginsia.     Rubiacece. 

Insert  cuttings  in  sandy  soil  under  cover,  in  bottom 
heat. 

Hog  Plum.    See  Spondias. 
Holly.    See  Ilex. 


254  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Hollyhock  (Althaea).     Malvacece. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe — in  summer — in 
pots  or  pans,  and  placed  in  a  slight  bottom  heat  or  in  the 
open  air.  In  either  case,  place  the  seedlings  in  3-inch 
pots,  and  winter  in  a  coldframe.  Dividing  the  roots,  after 
flowering  is  over,  by  separating  the  crown,  so  as  to  pre- 
serve one  or  more  buds  and  as  many  roots  as  possible  to 
each  piece.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots  3  inches  long, 
taken  off  close  to  the  old  root  at  nearly  the  same  time, 
should  be  placed  singly  in  small  pots  of  light,  sandy  soil 
and  kept  close,  and  shaded  in  a  coldframe  until  rooted. 
If  cuttings  are  made  during  winter,  a  gentle  bottom  heat 
must  be  given.  Also  grafted  (see  page  129).  See  also 
Althaea. 

Honesty.     See  Lunaria. 

Honey  Locust.     See  Gleditschia. 

Honeysuckle.     See  Lonicera. 

Hop.     See  Humulus. 

Hop  Hornbeam.     See  Ostrya. 

Horehound  (Marrubium  vulgar e}.     Labiates. 

Seeds,  in  early  spring.     Division. 
Horkelia.     See  Potentilla. 
Hornbeam.     See  Carpinus. 
Horse-Chestnut.     See  ^Esculus. 

Horse-Radish  (Nasturtium  Armor acia].     Crucifertz. 

Root  cuttings  ("sets").  These  are  made  from  the 
small  side  roots  when  the  horse-radish  is  dug.  They  may 
be  anywhere  from  one-fourth  to  one  inch  in  diameter,  and 
3  to  6  inches  long,  one  end  being  cut  slanting,  to  mark  it. 
These  are  planted  obliquely,  2  to  4  inches  deep,  in  spring. 
They  may  be  buried  during  winter.  ( Fig.  64. )  The  old 
crowns  may  be  planted,  but  they  make  poorer  roots. 

Hottonia.     Prinmlacefe. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  and  divisions  in  spring. 
House-Leek.     See  Sempervivum. 

House  Plants.  The  common  conservatory  plants,  like 
fuchsias,  geraniums,  carnations,  and  the  like,  give  best 
results  when  allowed  to  bloom  but  one  year.  They  are 


HOUSTONIA HYACINTHUS.  255 

then  thrown  away  and  their  places  supplied  by  other 
plants.  Cuttings  are  generally  made  in  late  winter  or 
spring  for  the  next  winter's  bloom.  These  cuttings  are 
slips  (page  65)  of  the  growing  wood.  See  the  various 
species,  under  their  respective  heads. 

Houstonia.     Rubiaceez. 

Seeds.  May  also  be  increased  by  carefully  made  divi- 
sions in  autumn  or  spring. 

Hovea,  Poiretia.     Leguminostz. 

Propagation  is  best  effected  by  seeds,  sown  in  well- 
drained  pots  of  sandy  peat  soil  in  spring,  and  placed  in 
a  gentle  bottom  heat.  Cuttings  are  difficult  to  strike. 

Hovenia.     Rhamnacecz . 

Increased  by  seeds.  Root  cuttings  are  also  used.  Ri- 
pened cuttings  should  be  placed  in  sand,  under  a  hand- 
glass. 

Hoya  (Honey  Plant,  Wax  Flower).     Asclepiadacecz. 

For  layering,  good-sized  shoots  should  have  a  few  of 
their  leaves  removed,  and  should  then  be  put  in  pots  of 
soil  until  rooted.  The  plants  may  afterwards  be  grown 
on,  and  repotted  according  to  their  strength.  Cuttings 
may  be  taken  in  spring  or  later  in  the  year,  from  shoots 
of  the  preceding  summer's  growth,  and  placed  in  a  com- 
post of  peat  and  sand,  and  plunged  in  bottom  heat  in  a 
frame.  A  slight  shade  and  careful  watering  will  be  neces- 
sary. H.  bella  does  best  when  grafted  on  a  stronger 
growing  sort., 

Huckleberry.     See  Vaccinium  and  Whortleberry. 

Humulus  (Hop).     Urticacece. 

It  may  be  propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  in  spring. 
Ordinarily,  however,  the  species  is  increased  by  hard- 
wood cuttings  of  two-bud  lengths  from  the  best  old 
shoots,  and  made  in  spring.  Leave  the  top  bud  just 
above  the  ground. 

Hyacinthus  (Hyacinth).     Liliacea. 

Seeds  are  employed  for  the  production  of  new  varieties. 
These  are  sown  the  same  season  they  mature,  in  light, 
sandy  soil,  and  are  covered  not  more  than  a  half-inch 
deep.  In  four  or  five  years,  or  sometimes  even  longer, 
the  bulbs  will  be  large  enough  to  flower.  Varieties  are 
perpetuated  by  means  of  the  bulbels,  which  form  freely 


256  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

upon  some  varieties.  These  are  treated  in  much  the 
same  manner  as  mature  bulbs,  or  they  may  be  handled  in 
pans  or  flats.  They  make  flower  bulbs  in  two  or  three 
years.  To  increase  the  numbers  of  these  bulbels,  the 
bulbs  are  variously  cut  by  the  Dutch  growers.  These 
practices  are  described  arid  illustrated  on  pages  28  and 
29,  Figs.  21-23.  Hyacinths  can  be  propagated  by  leaf 
cuttings.  Strong  leaves  should  be  taken  in  early  spring 
•and  cut  into  two  or  three  portions,  each  portion  being 
inserted  about  an  inch  in  good  sandy  loam,  and  given  a 
temperature  of  about  75°.  In  eight  or  ten  weeks  a  bulb- 
let  will  form  at  the  base  of  the  cutting  (see  page  60). 
The  lower  leaves  give  better  results  than  the  upper  ones. 
These  bulblets  are  then  treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
bulbels.  For  Hyacinthus  candicans,  see  Galtonia. 

Hydrangea,  Hortensia.     Saxifragacece. 

The  hardy  species  are  usually  propagated  by  green  cut- 
tings in  summer,  under  glass  (see  Fig.  75).  The  tender 
ones  (H.  Hortensia,  the  yar.  Otaksa,  etc.)  are  increased 
by  cuttings  taken  at  any  time  from  vigorous  young  wood, 
usually  in  late  winter.  Layers  are  occasionally  employed, 
and  suckers  can  be  separated  from  some  species.  Some- 
times the  hardy  species  are  forced  for  purposes  of  propa- 
gation by  cuttage.  H.  quercifolia  is  propagated  by  little 
suckers  or  ' '  root  pips. ' '  H.  paniculata  grandiflora  can 
easily  be  propagated  from  the  young  wood,  taken  in  June 
and  planted  under  glass. 

Hymenocallis.     Amaryllidacece. 

Treated  the  same  as  Pancratium,  which  see. 

Ilypericum.     Hypericacece \ 

Easily  increased  by  seeds,  cuttings,  or  by  strong  pieces 
of  the  roots  of  creeping-rooted  species.  Hard-wooded 
cuttings,  taken  in  fall,  are  commonly  used. 

Hypoxis.     Amaryllidacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  and  offsets. 

Hyssop  (Hyssopus  officinalis).     Labiates. 
Seeds.     Division. 

Iberis  (Candytuft).      Cruciferce. 

The  annuals  and  biennials  are  increased  by  seeds  sown 
in  light  sandy  soil,  in  spring  or  autumn.  The  sub-shrubby 


ILEX — IPOMCEA.  257 

sorts  are  also  increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  but 
more  often  by  divisions  or  by  cuttings. 

Ilex,  including  Prinos  ( Holly).     Ilicinece. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  stratified.  They  are  often 
cleaned  of  the  pulpy  coat  by  maceration.  The  seeds 
rarely  germinate  until  the  second  year.  Varieties  are 
perpetuated  by  graftage.  The  veneer-graft,  upon  potted 
plants,  is  usually  employed,  but  other  methods  may  be 
successful.  Budding  is  sometimes  performed. 

Illicium  (Aniseed-tree).     Magnoliacetz. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  young  ripened  shoots  may  be  made 
during  summer  and  should  be  placed  in  sandy  soil,  under 
a  glass. 

Imantophyllum.     Amaryllidacea. 

Seeds.  Usually  increased  by  division  or  by  means  of 
bulbels. 

Impatiens.     See  Balsam. 
Indian  Corn.     See  Maize. 
Indian  Fig.    See  Opuntia. 
Indian  Shot.     See  Canna. 
Indigofera  (Indigo).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds.     Cuttings  of  young  shoots  may 

be  inserted   in  sandy  or  peaty  soil  under  glass,  in  slight 

heat. 

Inula,  Elecampane.'    Composites. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds  or  by  division. 

lonidium,  Solea.     Violacetz. 

The  herbaceous  species  are  increased  by  seeds  and  by 
divisions.  The  shrubby  sorts  are  increased  by  cuttings, 
which  will  root  in  sand,  in  a  frame. 

Ipomoea,  including  Quamoclit  (Moonflower,  Morning  Glory). 
Convolvulacece -. 

All  the  annual  species  are  grown  from  seeds.  Seeds  of 
moonflowers  should  usually  be  filed  or  cut  on  the  point, 
and  started  in  a  rather  high  temperature.  The  perennials 
are  also  increased  by  seedage,  but  they  may  be  raised 
from  cuttings  struck  in  a  forcing-house  or  a  frame.  The 
moonflowers  often  do  better  in  the  north  from  cuttings 


258  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

than  from  seeds.  /  Horsfallice  is  largely  propagated  by 
layers,  and  other  species  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way. 
Division  is  sometimes  employed.  /.  pandurata  can  be 
propagated  by  root  cuttings.  Also  grafted  (see  page  129). 

Ipomopsis.    See  Gilia. 

Iresine,  Achyranthes.     Amarantacece . 

Seeds  rarely.  Increased  readily  by  cuttings.  For  sum- 
mer bedding  in  the  north,  cuttings  should  be  started  in 
February  or  March.  For  use  as  window  plants,  they 
should  be  taken  in  late  summer. 

Iris,  including  Xiphion  (Blue  Flag).     Iridacecz. 

Seeds  grow  readily  and  give  good  results,  and  they  are 
usually  produced  freely,  especially  in  the  bulbous  species. 
Sow  as  soon  as  ripe  in  light  soil  in  some  protected  place. 
The  bulbous  species  produce  bulbels,  which  may  be  used 
for  multiplication.  The  rhizomatous  species  are  propa- 
gated by  dividing  the  rhizome  into  short-rooted  pieces. 
Or  when  the  rhizomes  lie  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  and 
do  not  root  readily,  they  may  be  layered. 

Isonandra  (Gutta-Percha  Tree).     Sapotacece. 

Insert  cuttings  in  sandy  soil,  under  glass,  in  heat. 
Itea .     Saxifragacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  suckers,  in  spring  ;  and  in 
autumn  by  layers. 

Ivy.     See  Hedera  and  Ampelopsis. 

Ixia.     Iridacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  pans  of  sandy  soil  in  autumn,  and 
placed  in  a  cool  frame.  Propagation  by  bulbels  is  much 
quicker,  and  is  the  usual  method. 

Ixiolirion.     Amaryllidacefz . 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  bulbels. 
Ixora.     Rubiacetz. 

Seeds.  Usually  increased  by  short-jointed  green  cut- 
tings placed  in  a  close  frame  with  a  strong  bottom  heat. 

Jacaranda.     Bignoniacece. 

Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  may  be  made  in  early 
summer  and  placed  in  sand  over  sandy  peat,  in  heat,  and 
kept  shaded.  Also  seeds. 


JACOBEAN    LILY — JUGLANS.  25Q 

Jacobean  Lily.     See  Amaryllis. 

Jacobinia.    See  Justicia. 

Jasminum  (Jasmine,  Jessamine).     Oleacece. 

Sometimes  by  seeds,  but  usually  by  cuttings  of  the 
nearly  ripened  wood,  under  glass.  Cuttings  of  ripe  wood 
are  also  employed,  and  layers  are  often  used. 

Jatropha.    Euphorbiacea. 

Cuttings  made  of  firm  young  shoots  will  strike  in  sandy 
soil  in  a  strong  bottom  heat.  The  cuttings,  if  very  fleshy, 
may  be  dried  a  few  days  before  setting  them. 

Jeffersonia.    Berberidacecz. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  divisions  may 
be  made. 

Jerusalem  Artichoke  (Girasole).     See  Artichoke. 
Jessamine,  Yellow.     See  Gelsemium. 
Jonquil.     See  Narcissus. 

Jubaea  (Coquito  Palm  of  Chili).     Palmacece. 
Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds. 

Judas-tree.    See  Cercis. 

Juglans  (Walnut  and  Butternut).    Juglandacece. 

All  the  species  are  readily  propagated  by  means  oi 
stratified  nuts.  Do  not  allow  the  nuts  to  become  dry. 
Artificial  cracking  should  not  be  done.  In  stiff  soils  the 
seedlings  are  apt  to  produce  a  long  tap-root  which  renders 
transplanting  difficult  after  the  first  year  or  two.  The  tap- 
root may  be  cut  by  a  long  knife  while  the  tree  is  growing, 
or  the  young  seedling  may  be  transplanted.  Particular 
varieties  are  perpetuated  by  grafting  or  budding  with  any 
of  the  common  methods  ;  but  the  skill  of  the  grafter  is 
more  important  than  the  method.  In  the  north,  they  are 
sometimes  worked  indoors  in  pots.  Common  shield-bud- 
ding works  well,  if  the  sap  is  flowing  freely  in  the  stock. 
Flute-budding  is  often  employed.  The  improved  native 
sorts  are  root-grafted  in  winter.  Old  trees  can  be  top- 
grafted  like  apple  trees  (see  page  123).  If  nursery  stocks 
are  grafted,  it  is  usually  best  to  insert  the  cions  below 
ground,  as  for  grapes.  In  all  walnut  grafting,  it  is  gen- 
erally preferred  that  only  one  scarf  or  cut  of  the  cion 
should  traverse  the  pith.  It  is  very  important  that  the 
cions  be  kept  perfectly  dormant. 


260  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

The  "  English  "  walnut  (/.  regia]  is  mostly  grown  direct 
from  seed  in  this  country,  and  the  different  varieties  usu- 
ally come  true.  In  California,  the  native  walnut  (J.  Cali- 
fornica]  is  often  used  as  a  stock  for  this  species,  and  flute- 
budding  on  branches  a  half-inch  or  more  in  diameter  is 
often  practised.  Twig-  or  prong-budding  (Fig.  96)  is 
sometimes  employed. 

Jujube  (Zizyphus  Jujube}.     Rhamnacecz. 
Seeds  and  cuttings. 

Juncus  (Rush,  Bulrush).    Juncacece. 

Seeds.  The  perennials  may  be  increased  by  division. 
Scirpus  Taberncemontanus  variegatus  of  florists  is  a  form 
of  Juncus  effusus,  and  is  increased  by  division  of  the 
stools. 

Juneberry  ( A  melanchier  oblongifolia ) .     Rosacece. 

Increased  by  using  the  sprouts  which  form  freely  about 
the  old  plants  ;  also  by  seeds.  The  cultivated  dwarf  June- 
berry  is  multiplied  by  suckers.  See  Amelanchier. 

Juniperus  (Juniper,  Red  Cedar,  Savin).     Conifertz. 

Increased  readily  by  seeds,  which,  however,  often  lie 
dormant  until  the  second  year.  Red  cedar  seed  is  one  of 
the  species  which  lie  dormant  a  year.  They  germinate 
more  readily  if  the  pulp  is  removed  by  maceration  or  by 
soaking  with  ashes  for  a  few  days.  Green  cuttings,  in 
sand  under  glass,  root  easily  ;  or  mature  cuttings  may  be 
taken  in  fall  and  placed  in  a  coldframe,  in  which  they 
will  need  little  protection  during  winter.  Some  varieties 
require  a  long  time  to  root.  Most  of  the  named  varieties 
may  be  grafted  on  imported  Irish  stocks,  which  are  much 
used  in  some  parts  of  the  country.  They  may  be  veneer- 
grafted  and  handled  in  a  cool  house. 

Justicia,  including  Jacobinia  and  Sericographis.   Acanthacea. 

Seeds  occasionally.  The  species  strike  readily  from 
short  green  cuttings  on  a  cutting-bench  or  under  a  frame. 

Kadsura,  Sarcocarpon.     Magnoliacea. 

Seeds.  Cuttings,  made  of  nearly  ripened  shoots,  which 
should  be  placed  in  sand  under  glass. 

Kaki.     See  Persimmon. 


KALANCHOE KNIPHOFIA.  26l 

Kalanchoe.     Crassulacece. 

Propagated  by  seed,  but  cuttings,  when  obtainaole,  are 
better. 

Kale  (Brassica  oleracea,  vars. ).     Crucifercz. 

By  seeds,  sown  in  the  open  in  spring  in  the  north,  or  in 
the  fall  in  the  south. 

Kalmia  (Mountain  Laurel,  Calico-bush).     Ericacecz. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in 
shallow  pans  of  sandy  peat  or  sphagnum,  and  kept  in  a 
coldframe  until  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  trans- 
fer to  the  open  air  after  being  hardened  off.  By  cuttings 
of  young  shoots  in  sandy  peat,  placed  in  a  shady  situation 
under  a  hand-glass  (with  much  difficulty).  Also  by  lay- 
ers. Usually  obtained  from  the  woods.  Varieties  are 
veneer-grafted  under  glass,  upon  unnamed  stocks. 

Kennedya.     Leguminoscz. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  summer,  or  cuttings  of 
rather  firm  side  shoots  may  be  made  at  the  same  time, 
and  placed  in  peaty  soil,  in  a  close,  warm  frame. 

Kentia.    Palmacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  placed  in  light,  sandy  soil,  with  heat. 
Kentucky  Coffee-tree.    See  Gymnocladus. 
Kerria.    Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  divisions,  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of 
young  shoots,  inserted  under  a  hand-light,  or  by  ripened 
cuttings.  In  this  country,  oftener  increased  by  ripe  wood 
in  fall. 

Klein  ho  via.    Sterculiaceez . 

Seeds.  Make  cuttings  of  the  young  ripened  shoots, 
and  place  in  sand,  in  heat,  under  glass. 

Klugia .     Gesneracece. 

Seeds.     Propagated  usually  by  cuttings. 
Knightia.    Proteacecz. 

Make  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  with  upper  leaves  on, 
and  place  in  sandy  soil  under  glass,  in  a  very  gentle  bot- 
tom heat. 

Kniphofia,  Tritoma.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  of  the  crown  in  early 
spring. 

R 


262  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Koelreuteria.    Sapindacete. 

Propagated  in  spring  by  seed,  by  layers  in  autumn,  and 
by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  in  spring  ;  also  by  root- 
cuttings. 

Krameria.    Polygalacetz. 

Cuttings,  set  in  sand  under  glass,  in  spring.     Seeds. 
Kumquat  ( Citrus  Japonica ) .     Rutacecz. 

Worked  on  stocks  of  orange  (which  see). 
Laburnum  (Golden  Chain).     Legtiminostz. 

The  species  may  be  increased  by  seeds.  Layers  and 
suckers  are  often  used.  The  varieties  by  grafting  or  bud- 
ding on  the  common  sorts.  See  Cytisus. 

Lachenalia.    Liliacece. 

Seeds.     Bulbels. 
Laelia.     Orchidacece . 

Increased  by  pseudo-bulbs,  as  in  cattleya.  See  also 
under  Orchids. 

Lagerstroemia  (Crape  Myrtle).     Lythracece. 

Seeds.  Layers.  Cuttings  of  firm,  small  side  shoots 
may  be  made  in  spring,  and  placed  in  bottom  heat. 

Lagetta  (Lace  Bark).     Thymclaacete. 

Usually  increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  placed  in 
sand  under  glass,  in  bottom  heat. 

Lantana.     Verbenacece. 

Seeds,  which  give  new  varieties.  Cuttings,  in  fall  or 
spring,  from  good  growing  wood,  in  sand  in  a  warm  house 
or  frame. 

Lapageria,  Phsenocodon.     Liliacece. 

Sow  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  sandy  peat  soil,  and  keep 
in  a  moderate  heat.  Increased  by  layers  of  firm,  strong 
shoots. 

Lariz  (Larch,  Tamarack).     Conifercz. 

Seeds  should  be  kept  dry  over  winter  and  planted  early 
in  spring.  Shade  the  young  plants.  Varieties,  as  the 
weeping  sorts,  are  worked  upon  common  stocks.  The 
grafting  may  be  done  by  the  whip  method,  outdoors  early 
in  spring.  Rare  sorts  are  sometimes  veneer-grafted  under 
glass. 


LARKSPUR — LEDUM.  263 

Larkspur.    See  Delphinium. 
Lasiandra.    Melastomacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  growing  wood  under 
glass. 

Lasiopetalum.    Sterculiacece . 

Seeds.  Make  cuttings  in  spring  of  the  half-ripened 
wood,  and  insert  in  sand,  under  glass. 

Latania.    See  Livistona. 

Lathy rus  (Sweet  Pea,  Vetchling).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  very  early  in  the  open.  The  perennials 
also  by  seeds,  sometimes  by  division.  The  sweet  pea 
may  be  sown  before  frosty  weather  is  passed,  and  south  of 
Norfolk  it  is  usually  satisfactory  if  sown  in  the  fall.  The 
everlasting  pea  (L.  latifolius}  is  increased  by  seeds,  divi- 
sion and  cuttings. 

Lattice-leaf.    See  Ouvirandra. 
Laurel,  Mountain.    See  Kalmia. 
Laurus  (Laurel).     Lauracece. 

Increased   by   seeds,   layers,  and   by   cuttings,   placed 

under  a  hand-glass  in  sandy  soil.     Also  propagated  by 

root-cuttings. 

Laurestinus.    See  Viburnum. 

Lavandula  (Lavender).     Labiates '. 

Divisions.  When  the  flowers  are  fully  expanded,  cut- 
tings may  be  made.  These  should  be  inserted  in  sandy 
soil,  under  a  frame. 

Lawsonia.    Lythracece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots,  placed  in  sand 
under  a  glass,  in  heat. 

Layia.     Composites. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  a  hotbed,  or  in  the  open 
border  in  the  south. 

Leaf-Beet,  or  Chard.    See  Beet. 

Ledum  (Labrador  Tea).     Ericacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions,  but  principally  by 
layers,  in  sandy  peat  soil. 


264  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Leek  (Allium  Porrum}.     Liliacece. 

Seeds,  sown  very  early  in  the  spring,  either  outdoors  or 
in  a  coldframe. 

Leiophyllum  (Sand  Myrtle).     Ericacecs. 

May  be  freely  increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  pans  and 
placed  in  a  frame.  By  layers  in  autumn. 

Lemon  (Citrus  Medica,  var.  Limon}.     Rutacecz. 

The  named  sorts  are  budded  upon  either  orange  or 
lemon  stocks.  Orange  stocks  are  probably  most  gener- 
ally preferred,  as  they  are  adapted  to  a  great  variety  of 
soils,  and  vigorous  trees  nearly  always  result.  The  bud- 
ding is  performed  in  the  same  manner  as  upon  the  Orange, 
which  see.  Lemons  are  often  grown  from  cuttings  of  the 
mature  wood,  which  are  set  in  the  open  ground  as  soon  as 
the  spring  becomes  warm,  or  in  a  frame.  Stocks  for  bud- 
ding upon  are  sometimes  grown  from  cuttings  in  this  way. 

Lentil  (Ervum,  various  species).    Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  in  early  spring. 
Leonotis  (Lion's  Ear,  Lion's  Tail).     Labiates. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  a 
gentle  bottom  heat,  in  early  spring. 

Leontice.    Berberidacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds  or  by  suckers. 
Leontopodium  (Edelweiss,  Lion's  Foot).     Composites. 

May  annually  be  raised  from  seeds,  or  the  old  plants 
may  be  divided  in  spring.  The  seeds  must  be  kept  in  a 
dry  place  throughout  the  winter. 

Lepachys.    See'Rudbeckia. 
Leptosyne.     Composites. 
Propagated  by  seeds. 

Lessertia.    Leguminosce. 

Propagation  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  in  spring. 

Lettuce  (Lactuca  sativa}.     Composite. 

Seeds,  which  may  be  sown  under  glass  or  in  the  open. 
In  the  middle  and  southern  states,  the  seeds  may  be  sown 
in  the  fall,  and  the  plants  protected  during  cold  by  a 
mulch ;  or  the  plants  may  grow  during  winter  in  the 
warmer  countries. 


LEUCOIUM LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY.  265 

Leucoium  (Snowflake).     Amaryllidacecz. 

Seeds,  for  producing  new  sorts.  Propagation  is  com- 
monly effected  by  bulbels,  which  should  be  secured  as 
soon  as  possible  after  the  foliage  ripens. 

Leucothoe.     Ericace<z. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  covered  very 
lightly.  By  divisions  of  established  plants  in  autumn  or 
winter.  Also  by  layers. 

Lewisia.     Portulacacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions  in  spring. 

Liatris  (Blazing  Star,  Button  Snake-root).     Composites. 

Seeds  are  usually  sown  early  in  autumn.  Divisions  may 
be  made  in  spring. 

Libonia.    Acanthacecz . 

Seeds  are  rarely  employed.  Usually  increased  by  short 
green  cuttings,  like  fuchsia  and  pelargonium. 

Licuala.     Palmacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  in  a  sandy  soil,  and 
placed  in  a  strong,  moist  bottom  heat. 

Ligustrum  (Privet,  Prim).     Oleacecz. 

Stratified  seeds.  Division.  The  named  varieties  are 
grown  from  cuttings,  either  of  green  or  ripe  wood. 

Lilac.     See  Syringa. 

L ilium  (Lily).     Liliacetz. 

Seeds  —  giving  new  varieties  in  the  variable  species  — 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  well-drained  pans  of 
sandy  peat,  slightly  covered  with  similar  soil  and  a  layer 
of  moss,  and  placed  in  a  cool  frame.  Usually  increased 
by  bulbels,  which  should  be  planted  a  few  inches  apart  in 
prepared  beds.  Sometimes  small  bulblets  form  in  the 
axils  of  the  leaves,  and  these  are  used  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  bulbels.  Bulb-scales  are  often  employed  for  the 
multiplication  of  scarce  kinds.  Those  which  produce 
large  and  loose  bulbs,  as  L.  candidum,  may  be  increased 
by  simple  division.  These  operations  are  described  on 
pages  26  to  31. 

Lily-of-the-Valley.    See  Convallaria. 


266  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Lime  (Citrus  Limetta  and  C.  Medica,  var.   acris}.      Ru- 

tacece. 

Seeds,  which  usually  reproduce  the  variety.  Some  va- 
rieties are  budded  upon  strong  seedlings. 

Lime-tree.    See  Tilia. 
Limnocharis.     Alismacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  by  divisions,  and  by  runners. 
Linaria  (Toadflax).    Scrophulariacete. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  light  soil,  in  early  spring. 
Or  by  divisions  made  in  spring  or  autumn.  The  green- 
house species  are  ordinarily  grown  from  seeds,  which 
should  be  carefully  sown  in  finely  pulverized  soil.  Cut* 
tings  may  also  be  used. 

Linden.    See  Tilia. 

Lindera  (Spice-bush,  Benzoin).     Lauracetz. 

Seeds,  stratified.     Divisions.     Cuttings,  as  in  Cornus. 
Lindleya.    Rosace  ce. 

Increased  by  ripened  cuttings  under  glass  in  bottom 
heat ;  or  by  grafting  on  the  hawthorn. 

Linnaea.     Caprifoliaceez \ 

Naturally  increased  by  layers  or  runners.  Seeds  are 
rarely  employed 

Linum  (Flax).     Linacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  the  hardy  species  sown  outdoors 
and  the  tender  ones  under  glass.  Cuttings  may  be  taken 
from  firm  shoots  and  inserted  in  a  sandy  position  under 
glass.  The  ordinary  flax  is  sown  directly  in  the  field. 
See  Reinwardtia. 

Lippia.     Verbenacece. 

Seeds.  Usually  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots,  which  will 
root  freely  in  sandy  soil  in  a  close,  warm  frame.  If  it  is 
not  possible  to  secure  the  necessary  heat,  cuttings  of  the 
hard  wood  can  be  used  in  autumn,  under  glass. 

Liquidambar    Sweet  Gum).     Hamamelidecs. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  or  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe.  Many  of  the  seeds  may  lie  dormant  until  the  sec- 
ond year. 

Liquorice.     See  Glycyrrhiza. 


LIRIODENDRON — LOISELEURIA.  2&J 

Liriodendron  (Tulip-tree,  Whitewood).    Magnoliacea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  are  stratified  as  soon  as  they 
are  ripe,  and  sown  the  following  spring.  Named  varieties 
are  grafted  on  seedlings.  The  seeds  of  the  tulip-tree  are 
apt  to  be  hollow,  especially  those  grown  along  the  eastern 
limits  of  the  distribution  of  the  species. 

Litchi.    See  Nephelium. 

Livistona,  Latania  (Fan  Palm).     Palmacece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  a  sandy  soil  and  placed  in  a  gentle  bot- 
tom heat. 

Lloydia.    Liliacecz. 

Seeds  rarely.  Increased  by  bulbels,  or  'by  the  creeping 
shoots,  leaving  a  bulb  at  the  extremity. 

Loasa,  including  Illairea.     Loasacetz. 

All  are  easily  increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a  light,  sandy 
soil,  usually  under  cover.  Cuttings  are  rarely  used. 

Lobelia.    Lobeliacecz. 

Ordinarily  increased  by  seeds,  which  are  more  certain 
if  handled  in  pans  or  flats  under  glass.  Cuttings  from 
vigorous  shoots  may  be  employed,  and  strong  plants  of 
some  species  may  be  divided.  The  cardinal  flower  (L. 
cardinalis]  is  grown  from  seeds  carefully  sown  in  fine  soil, 
usually  under  cover. 

Locust-tree.    See  Robinia  ;  also  Gleditschia. 

Loddigesia.    Leguminoscz. 

Increased  in  spring  by  cuttings  placed  under  glass,  in 
sandy  soil. 

Loeselia.    Polemoniacecz. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand  under 
glass. 

Logania.    Loganiacece . 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  firm  side  shoots  inserted  in 
sandy  soil,  under  glass. 

Loiseleuria.    Ericacece. 

Propagation  by  layers  ;  very  rarely  by  seeds,  which  are 
slow  and  uncertain.  Like  Andromeda. 


268  THE   NURSERY   LIST. 

Lonicera,  including  Caprifolium  and    Xylosteum   (Honey 

suckle,  Woodbine).  Caprifoliacece . 
Seeds,  for  new  varieties.  Sow  as  soon  as  ripe,  or 
stratify,  first  removing  them  from  the  pulp.  The  upright 
species  are  commonly  grown  from  layers  and  from  cut- 
tings of  dormant  wood.  The  creepers  are  mostly  grown 
from  dormant  cuttings. 

Lophospermum.    See  Maurandia. 
Loquat      See  Photinia. 

Lotus.     Leguminosce. 

The  species  may  be  raised  annually  from  seeds.      In 
creased  also  by  cuttings. 

Lotus  of  the  Wile.    See  Nymphaea  ;  also  Nelumbo. 

Lovage  (Levisticum  qfficinale}.     Umbelliferce. 

Seeds  sown  in  the  open  ground,  and  division. 

Lucerne.     See  Medicago. 

Luculia.    Rubiacece. 

Sow  seeds  in  sandy  soil  and  place  in  a  little  heat.  Cut- 
tings of  young  shoots  may  be  inserted  in  spring,  under 
glass,  in  gentle  bottom  heat  for  the  first  two  or  three 
weeks.  Insert  immediately  after  cutting,  and  water  freely. 

Luffa  (Dish-cloth  Gourd).     Cucurbitacece. 

Seed,  sown  in  the  open,  or  in  the  north  better  started 
in  pots  in  early  spring. 

Lunar ia  (Honesty).     Crucifercs. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  division. 

Lupinus  (Lupine).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  of  annuals  may  be  sown  in  the  open  border  dur- 
ing early  spring.  The  perennials  may  be  increased  the 
same  way,  or  by  dividing  the  stronger-growing  plants 
during  very  early  spring. 

Lycaste.     Orchidacece. 

Division  and  pseudo-bulbs.     (See  also  under  Orchids. ) 

Lychnis,  including  Agrostemma,  Viscaria.     Caryophyllacea. 
Increased  readily  in  spring  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings. 


LYCIUM MAIDENHAIR-TREE.  269 

Lycium  (Matrimony  Vine,  Box  Thorn).     Solanacetz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  suckers,  layers ;  and  by  cuttings 
made  in  autumn  or  spring. 

Lycopodium  (Club-moss).     Lycopodiacecz. 

Spores,  as  for  Ferns  (which  see).  Short  cuttings  in 
pans  or  pots. 

Lygodium  (Hartford  Fern,  Climbing  Fern).     Filices. 

By  spores,  and  divisions  of  the  root.     See  Ferns. 
Lyonia.     Ericacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  very  care- 
fully in  sandy  peat  soil.  Also  by  layers. 

Lysimachia  (Loosestrife).     Primulacete : 

Propagation  is  easily  effected  by  seeds  ;  by  divisions  in 
late  autumn  or  early  spring  ;  and  by  cuttings. 

Ly thrum  (Loosestrife).    Lyihracece. 

Seeds  and  divisions  are  the  usual  methods.  Cuttings 
are  employed  for  some  species. 

Maclura  (Osage  Orange).     Urticacece. 

Sow  seed  in  the  spring.  Soak  in  warm  water  a  few 
days  before  sowing. 

Madeira  Vine.     See  Boussingaultia. 

Magnolia.    Magnoliacecz. 

Seeds  are  commonly  used.  The  coverings  should  be 
macerated  in  the  very  pulpy  species.  The  cucumber 
trees  and  some  others  are  sown  directly  in  autumn.  The 
seeds  of  any  species  should  not  be  allowed  to  become 
thoroughly  dry.  Magnolias  strike  well  from  green  cut- 
tings, cut  to  a  heel  and  handled  under  glass.  Layers  are 
often  used.  Named  varieties  are  veneer-  or  side-grafted 
upon  strong  stocks.  The  cucumber  tree  (M.  acuminata\ 
is  used  as  a  stock  for  all  species.  The  umbrella  tree 
(M.  Umbrella]  is  also  a  good  stock. 

Mahernia.     Sterculiacece . 

Propagated  during  summer  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots, 
i  or  2  inches  long,  inserted  in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Mahonia.    See  Berberis. 
Maidenhair-tree.     See  Ginkgo. 


270  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Maize,  Indian  Corn  (Zea  Mays}.     Grammes. 

Seeds  (properly  fruits),  planted  upon  the  approach  of 
warm  weather. 

Malcolmia.     Cruciferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Mallow.     See  Malva. 

Malope.    Malvacecs. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  either  under  glass  in  early  spring, 
or  in  the  open  border  a  month  or  two  later. 

Malpighia.    Malpighiacecs. 

Cuttings  of  nearly  ripened  shoots  may  be  made  in  sunv 
mer  (with  leaves),  or  under  glass. 

Malva  (Mallow).     Malvacecz. 

The  annuals  by  seeds  only.  The  perennials  may  be 
increased  by  seeds,  divisions  or  cuttings. 

Malvaviscus.     Malvacetz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  side  shoots, 
placed  under  glass,  in  heat. 

Mammea  (Mammee  Apple,  St.  Domingo  Apricot).     Gulti' 

feres. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  should  be  taken 
with  the  leaves  on  and  placed  in  a  frame. 

Mammillaria.     See  Cactus. 
Mandevilla.     Apocynacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  or  cuttings  of  half-ripened 
wood. 

Mandiocca.     See  Manihot. 
Mandragora  (Mandrake).     Solanacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Mandrake.     See  Mandragora  and  Podophyllum. 

Manettia.     Rubiace<z. 

Seeds  are  sometimes  employed.  Usually  increased  by 
cuttings  of  young  shoots.  Root-cuttings  are  sometimes 
made. 

Mangifera.     See  Mango. 


MANGO — MARTYNIA.  VJ1 

Mango  ( Mangifera  Indica ) .     Anacardiacece. 

Stocks  are  obtained  by  seeds.  The  seeds  usually  have 
more  than  one  embryo,  sometimes  as  many  as  ten.  Each 
embryo  will  produce  a  distinct  plant.  The  embryos  may 
be  separated  before  planting,  but  it  is  preferable  to  sep- 
arate the  young  plantlets  soon  after  germination,  before 
they  grow  together,  as  they  are  apt  to  do.  The  seeds 
germinate  better  if  the  hard  shell  is  removed  before  plant 
ing.  Seeds  retain  their  vitality  but  a  few  days,  and  if  to 
be  shipped  for  sowing  they  should  be  enclosed  in  wax. 
Seedlings  begin  to  bear  from  the  third  to  the  sixth  years. 
Varieties  are  inarched  upon  other  stocks. 

Mangostana,  Mangosteen.     See  Garcinia. 
Manicaria,  Pilophora.     Palmacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  a  strong, 
moist  heat. 

Manihot,  Janipha,  Mandiocca.     Euphorbiacece '. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  cuttings  of  y  ung  and  rather 
firm  shoots,  placed  in  sandy  peat  under  glass,  in  bottom 
heat.  For  the  propagation  of  M.  Aipe,  see  Cassava. 

Mantisia.    Scitaminece. 

Propagated  usually  by  divisions,  made  just  as  growth 
commences. 

Maple.    See  Acer. 
Maranta.    See  Calathea. 

Marguerite,  or  Paris  Daisy  (Chrysanthemum  frutescens  and 

C.  fceniculaceum}.      Composites. 

Cuttings,  as  described  for  Chrysanthemum,  which  see. 
Marigold.     See  Tagetes  and  Calendula. 
Mariposa  Lily.    See  Calochortus. 
Marsdenia.    Asclepiadacece. 

In  spring,  cuttings  may  be  made  and  inserted  in  sand, 
under  glass. 

Marsh-Mallow.  See  Althaea. 
Marsh-Marigold.  See  Caltha. 
Martynia  (Unicorn  Plant).  Pedalinece. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow,  or  started 
under  glass  in  the  north. 


272  THE    NURSERY   LIST 

Masdevallia.     Orchidacece. 

Division.     See  also  under  Orchids. 
Matthiola  (Stock,  Gilliflower).     Cruciferce. 

Seeds,    sown    either   under   cover   or   in    the    garden 
Grows  readily  from  cuttings. 

Maurandia,  including  Lophospermum.     Scrophulariacecs. 

Seeds,  sown  in  heat.  Cuttings  of  young  growth  undei 
glass. 

Maxillaria.     Orchidacece. 

Division  of  the  plants,  and  also  of  the  pseudo-bulbs. 
See  also  under  Orchids. 

May-Apple.  See  Podophyllum. 
Meadow-Rue.  See  Thalictrum. 
Meadow-Sweet.  See  Spiraea. 

Meconopsis.     Papaveracetz . 

Seeds,  sown  in  early  spring  in  a  gentle  heat.  Also 
propagated  by  division. 

Medicago  (Lucerne,  Medick).     Leguminosce . 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  division.  Alfalfa  (M.  saliva] 
by  seeds  in  spring. 

Medinilla.    Melastomacecz. 

Cuttings  of  young  wood  in  strong,  close  heat. 

Medlar  (Pyrus  [or  Mespilus\  Germanica}.     Rosacece. 

Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  medlar  seeds,  and  the 
plant  may  be  worked  upon  these,  the  thorn,  or  the  quince. 

Megarrhiza.     Cucurbitacece : 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  sown  in  gentle  heat 
in  spring. 

Melaleuca.    Myrtacecz. 

Seeds.  In  spring,  cuttings  getting  firm  at  the  base  may 
be  made  about  3  inches  in  length.  Place  in  a  compost 
of  peat  and  sandy  loam. 

Melastoma.     Melastomacece. 

Make  cuttings  during  spring,  and  place  in  sandy  peat 
under  glass,  in  heat. 


MELIA — MILKWEED.  273 

Melia  (Bead-tree,  Pride  of  India).     Meliacetz. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Cuttings  of  growing  wood 
under  glass. 

Melicocca  (Ginep,  Spanish  Lime).     Sapindacece. 

Seeds.  Place  ripened  cuttings  in  sand  under  glass,  in 
heat. 

Melocactus.    See  Cactus. 

Melon  (Cucumis  Melo}.     Cucurbitacecz . 

Seeds,  sown  where  the   plants  are  to  stand.     In  the 

north  they  are  occasionally  started  under  glass  in  pots  or 

pieces  of  inverted  sods,  by  amateurs. 

Menispermum  (Moon-seed).     Menispermacetz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings,  in  spring. 
Mentzelia.    Loasacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  in  spring,  in  gentle  heat.  The  seed- 
lings of  Bartonia  aurea  (properly  Mentzelia  Lindleyi] 
should  be  potted  singly  into  small,  well-drained  pots.  In 
winter  they  should  be  placed  on  a  dry  shelf  in  a  green- 
house or  frame. 

Menyanthes  (Buckbean).     Gentianacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  by  division  of  the  roots. 
Mertensia  (Lungwort).     Borraginacece. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  sowing  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe, 
or  by  divisions  in  autumn. 

Mesembryanthemum  (Fig  Marigold,  Ice   Plant).     Ficoidece. 
May  be  easily  propagated  by  seeds,  sown  under  glass  ; 
by  pieces,  pulled  or  cut  off  and  laid  in  the  sun  on  moist 
sand. 

Mespilus.    See  Medlar. 
Michaelmas  Daisy.    See  Aster. 
Michelia.    Magnoliacece. 

Seeds.  Make  cuttings  of  growing  wood  in  summer, 
and  place  in  sand  under  glass. 

Mignonette.    See  Reseda. 
Milfoil.    See  Achillea. 
Milkweed.    See  Asclepias. 


274  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Milla.     Liliacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds,  bulbels  or  by  division. 

Miltonia.     Orchidacece. 

Dividing  the  pseudo-bulbs.     See  also  under  Orchids. 

Mimosa  (Sensitive  Plant).     Leguminosa* 

Seeds,   sown  indoors.     Cuttings  of  rather  firm  shoots, 
and  inserted  in  sandy  soil,  in  heat. 

Mimulus  (Monkey-flower,  Musk  Plant).      Scrophulariacete. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  thinly  sown  and 
lightly  covered.     Also  by  division,  and  cuttings. 

Mint.    See  Peppermint  and  Spearmint. 

Mirabilis,  Jalapa  (Marvel  of  Peru,  Four-O'clock).      Nycta- 

ginacefe. 
Seeds,  sown  in  spring  either  under  cover  or  outdoors. 

Miscanthus  (Eulalia,  Zebra-grass).     Graminece. 
Division  and  seeds. 

Mistletoe.     See  Viscum. 

Mock  Orange.     See  Philadelphus. 

Momordica.     Cucurbitacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  heat  early 
in  spring,  or  in  the  open  in  the  south. 

Monk's  Hood.    See  Aconitum. 

Monstera,  Serangium,  Tornelia.     Aroidete. 

Easily  increased  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  of  the  stem. 
Montbretia.     See  Tritonia. 
Moon-flower.     See  Ipomcea. 
Moon-seed.    See  Menispermum. 
Morning-glory.    See  Ipomcea. 
Morus.    See  Mulberry. 
Mountain  Ash.    See  Pyrus. 
Mountain  Laurel.    See  Kalmia. 
Mourning  Bride.     See  Scabiosa. 


MUCUNA MUSHROOM.  275 

Mucuna  (Cow-itch).     Leguminos&. 

Propagation  may  be  effected  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings 
of  half-ripened  wood  under  glass. 

Muehlenbeckia,  Sarcogonum.     Polygonacece . 

Seeds.  Increased  usually  by  cuttings,  taken  in  early 
summer,  in  a  frame. 

Mulberry  (Morusalba,  M.  nigra,  M.  rubra^  etc.).    Urticacecs. 

New  sorts  are  grown  by  seeds,  which  should  be  han- 
dled in  the  same  manner  as  small-fruit  seeds.  Named 
varieties  are  multiplied  by  cuttings  of  the  root,  or  of  ma- 
ture wood,  and  sometimes  by  layers.  They  may  be  cion- 
budded  in  the  spring  (see  Fig.  115).  In  the  south,  cuttings 
of  the  Downing  mulberry  are  used  for  stocks  (Fig.  105). 

The  common  white  mulberry  was  formerly  used  as  a 
stock  for  named  varieties,  but  Russian  mulberry  seedlings 
are  now  much  used.  The  stocks  may  be  top-worked  out- 
doors (as  explained  above)  or  root-grafted  in  the  house. 
The  fancy  varieties  are  commonly  crown-worked,  in  the 
house  in  winter,  the  stocks  being  grown  in  pots  or  boxes 
for  the  purpose.  They  are  then  kept  under  glass  until  the 
weather  permits  them  outdoors.  By  this  method  choice 
specimen  trees  are  procured,  but  they  are  readily  handled 
by  cheaper  methods.  The  weeping  and  other  ornamental 
sorts  are  worked  upon  the  Russian  mulberry. 

Mulberry,  Paper.     See  Broussonetia. 

Mullein.    See  Verbascum. 

Musa  ( Banana,  or  Plantain-tree ) .    Scitaminea. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  heat  during  spring.  Suckers 
are  used  for  those  species  which  produce  them.  Many 
of  the  species  do  not  produce  seeds  freely,  and  suckers 
must  be  relied  upon.  Musa  Ensete  is  propagated  by 
seeds.  See  Banana. 

Muscari,  including  Botryanthus  (Grape  Hyacinth).    Liliacecz. 
Increased  by  seeds  ;  also  by  bulbels,  which  are  obtained 
by  lifting  the  old  bulbs  early  in  the  autumn,  about  every 
second  year. 
Mushroom  (Agaricus  campestris). 

Break  up  the  commercial  spawn  into  pieces  about  as 

large  as  a  hen's  egg,  and  plant  it  two  or  three  inches  deep 

in  drills  or  holes,  using  from  one-half-pound  to  a  pound  of 

spawn  to  each  square  yard  of  bed. 

The  spawn  is  the  mycelium  of  the  fungus  grown  in  a 


276  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

mass  or  "brick"  of  earth  and  manure.  Various  meth- 
ods are  employed  for  making  the  spawn,  but  the  essen- 
tials of  them  all  are  that  the  body  of  the  brick  shall  be 
composed  of  a  porous  and  light  material,  which  can  be 
compressed  into  a  compact  mass  ;  fresh  mycelium  must 
be  communicated  to  this  mass,  and  then  a  mild  heat 
must  be  applied,  until  the  whole  mass  is  permeated  by 
the  mycelium.  The  mass  should  be  kept  in  heat  until 
the  whole  of  it  assumes  a  somewhat  cloudy  look,  but  not 
until  the  threads  of  the  mycelium  can  be  seen.  Ordina- 
rily, fresh  horse-manure,  cow-manure  and  good  loam  are 
mixed  together  in  about  equal  proportions,  enough  water 
being  added  to  render  the  material  of  the  consistency  of 
mortar.  It  is  then  spread  upon  the  floor  or  in  large  vats, 
until  sufficiently  dry  to  be  cut  into  bricks.  When  these 
are  tolerably  well  dried,  mycelium  from  a  mushroom  bed 
or  from  other  bricks  is  inserted  in  the  side  of  each  brick. 
A  bit  of  spawn  about  the  size  of  a  small  walnut  is  thus 
inserted,  and  the  hole  is  plugged  up.  The  bricks  are 
now  placed  in  a  mild  covered  hotbed,  with  a  bottom  heat 
of  55°  to  65°,  and  left  there  until  the  clouded  appearance 
indicates  that  the  mycelium  has  extended  throughout  the 
mass. 

Soil  from  a  good  mushroom  bed  is  sometimes  used  to 
sow  new  beds,  in  place  of  commercial  spawn. 

Old  clumps  of  mushrooms  may  be  allowed  to  become 
dry,  and  they  may  then  be  mixed  into  a  bed.  The 
spores  will  then  stock  the  soil  and  prodace  a  new  crop. 
The  full-grown  mushroom  may  be  laid  upon  white  paper 
until  the  spores  are  discharged,  and  these  spores  may 
then  be  mixed  into  the  earth.  Propagation  by  spores  is 
little  understood.  (See  page  24.) 

Mustard  (Brassica  or  Sinapis  species).     Cruciferce. 
Propagated  by  seeds. 

Mutisia.     Composite?. 

Seeds.  Layers  and  cuttings  of  growing  wood,  those  of 
the  tender  species  in  bottom  heat. 

Mygindia,  Rhacoma.     Celastracece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  firm  shoots  under  glass. 

Myosotis  (Forget-me-not).     Borraginacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  indoors  or  in  the 
garden.  The  perennials  may  also  be  increased  by  divi- 


MYRICA NECTARINE.  277 

sion,  in  spring,  or  by  cuttings  placed  under  a  hand-glass 
in  a  shady  spot,  in  summer. 

Myrica  (Bay berry,  Sweet  Gale,  Wax  Myrtle,  Candleberry) 

Myncacetz. 

Hardy  species  mostly  by  seeds,  from  which  the  pulp 
has  been  removed.  Sow  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  stratify  them. 
Layers  and  divisions  may  also  be  employed.  The  green- 
house species  are  increased  mostly  Dy  green  cuttings. 

Myristica  (Nutmeg).     Myristicacece . 

May  be  increased  by  seeds ;  or  by  cuttings  of  ripened 
shoots  placed  in  sand  under  glass,  in  bottom  heat. 

Myrobalan.    See  Prunus. 

Myrrhis  (Sweet  Cicely  or  Myrrh).     Umbelliferte. 
May  be  increased  by  divisions  or  by  seeds. 

Myrsiphyllum.    Liliacecz. 

Freely  increased  by  seeds,  or  by  divisions.  M.  aspara- 
goides  (properly  Asparagus  medeoloides},  the  "Smilax" 
or  Boston-vine  of  greenhouses,  is  increased  by  seeds, 
which  germinate  readily.  The  roots  may  also  be  divided, 
but  seeds  are  to  be  preferred. 

Myrtus  (Myrtle).     Myrtacece. 

Seeds,  when  they  can  be  obtained.  Readily  propagated 
by  cuttings  of  firm  or  partially  ripened  shoots,  placed  in 
a  close  frame ;  those  of  the  stove  species  require  a 
warmer  temperature  than  the  half-hardy  ones. 

Naegelia.     Gesneracece. 

Seeds  rarely.  Propagation  is  effected  by  potting  the 
runners  in  spring  or  summer  in  a  compost  of  peat,  leaf 
soil  and  a  little  loam.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots,  or 
mature  leaves,  will  also  root  readily.  Compare  Sinningia. 

Narcissus  (Daffodil,  Jonquil,  Chinese  Sacred  Lily).     Ama- 

ryllidacece. 

New  varieties  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  give  flow- 
ering bulbs  in  three  or  four  years.  Ordinarily  increased 
by  bulbels,  which  usually  flower  the  second  year. 

Nasturtium.     See  Water  Cress,  and  Tropaeolum. 

Nectarine.    Propagated  the  same  as  Peach. 

s 


278  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Negundo  (Box  Elder).     Sapindacece. 

Propagates  with  readiness  by  seeds,  which  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Also  by  cuttings  of  mature  wood, 
handled  like  grape  cuttings. 

Neillia.     Handled  the  same  as  Spiraea,  which  see. 

Nelumbo,   Nelumbium    (Water   Chinquapin,    Lotus,    Water 

Bean).     Nymphceacece. 

Seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  shallow  pans  of  water  in 
the  garden,  or  if  sown  in  ponds  they  may  be  incorporated 
in  a  ball  of  clay  and  dropped  into  the  water.  The  seeds 
of  some  species  are  very  hard,  and  germination  is  facili- 
tated if  they  are  very  carefully  filed  or  bored  (see  Fig.  is). 
Sections  of  the  rhizomes  may  be  used  instead ;  they 
should  always  be  covered  with  water,  at  least  a  foot  or 
two  deep,  if  outdoors.  The  False  Lotus  or  Sacred  Bean 
(N.  Indicum  or  speciosum )  by  division  and  seeds. 

Nemastylis.    Iridacece, 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  or  by  bulbels. 
Nemopanthes  (Mountain  Holly).     Ilicinece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe  or  else  stratified ;  also  by  division  of  old  plants. 
Nemophila.    Hydrophyllacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  late  summer  or  any  time  during 
early  spring. 
Nepenthes  (Pitcher  Plant).     Nepenthacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings.  The  seeds  must 
have  good  drainage,  uniform  conditions  and  strong  heat 
(80°  to  85°).  Sow  upon  a  soil  made  of  peat  and  fine 
sphagnum,  and  keep  in  a  moist  and  close  frame.  Cut- 
tings are  usually  struck  in  moss  in  a  frame  having  strong 
bottom  heat.  A  good  plan  is  to  fill  a  small  pot  with 
moss,  invert  it,  and  insert  the  cutting  through  the  hole  in 
the  bottom.  The  pot  then  keeps  the  moss  uniform  in 
temperature  and  moisture.  The  pot  is  broken  when  the 
plant  is  removed.  When  potting  off,  use  very  coarse  ma- 
terial. 
Nepeta,  Glechoma  (Catmint,  Catnip).  Labiatce. 

Propagated  by  sowing  seed  in  spring,  or  by  division. 
Nephelium  (Litchi).     Sapindacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  or  by  cuttings  made  of  half- 
ripened  wood. 


NEPHRODIUM NORWAY    SPRUCE.  279 

Nephrodium.  See  Ferns. 
Nephrolepis.  See  Ferns. 
Nerine  (Guernsey  Lily).  Amaryllidacece . 

Seeds,  for  new  varieties.  Commonly  increased  by 
means  of  bulbels. 

Nerium  (Oleander).     Apocynacece . 

Layers.  Cuttings  should  be  made  of  natural  leading 
shoots,  inserted  in  single  pots  and  placed  in  a  close,  warm 
frame ;  or  they  may  be  rooted  in  bottles  of  water  and 
afterwards  potted  in  soil.  See  Fig.  69  a. 

Nertera.     Rubiacece . 

Increased  by  seeds,  divisions,  or  cuttings.  Any  small 
portion  will  grow  freely,  especially  if  placed  in  a  warm 
frame. 

Nettle-tree.     See  Celtis. 

New  Zealand  Flax.     See  Phormium. 

Nicandra.    Solanacece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  the  open  border,  or  under  glass  in  the 
north. 

Nicotiana  (Tobacco).     Solanacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  started  under  glass  or  in  a  care- 
fully prepared  seed-bed.  The  ornamental  species  some- 
times by  cuttings.  N.  alata  (IV.  affinis  of  gardens)  prop- 
agates by  root  cuttings.  Tobacco  is  handled  essentially 
like  tomato  plants. 

Nierembergia.    Solanacecz. 

Grown  from  seeds,  under  glass.  Cuttings  of  firm  shoots 
are  also  used. 

Nigella  (Fennel  Flower,  Love-in-a-mist).      Ranunculacece . 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring  in  the  open 
Nightshade.     See  Solanum. 
Nine-bark.    See  Spiraea. 
Nolana.     Convolvulacece. 

Seeds  sown  in  the  open  border  during  spring. 
Norfolk  Island  Pine.    See  Araucaria. 
Norway  Spruce.    See  Picea. 


280  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Nuphar.     Propagated    same  as   Nelumbo   and    Nymphaea, 
which  see. 

Nutmeg.    See  Myristica. 
Nuttallia.     Rosacece. 

May  be  propagated  by  seeds ;  by  divisions  ;  by  means 
of  suckers,  which  spring  from  the  roots. 

Nut-trees.    See  the  various  genera,  as  Almond,  Chestnut, 
Hicoria,  Juglans  and  Pecan. 

Nymphaea,  Castalia  (Water  Lily,  Lotus).    NymphaacetK. 

Seeds,  which  are  rolled  up  in  a  ball  of  clay  and  dropped 
into  a  pond,  or  sown  in  pots  which  are  then  submerged  in 
shallow  water,  either  indoors  or  out.  Usually  increased 
by  portions  of  the  rootstocks,  which  are  sunk  in  the  pond 
and  held  by  stones,  or  the  tender  species  placed  inside,  in 
pans  of  water.  Some  species  produce  tubers  on  the  root- 
stocks,  which  are  used  for  propagation. 

Nyssa  (Pepperidge,  Sour  Gum,  Tupelo-tree).     Cornacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  layers.  The  seeds  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  else  stratified.  They  usually  lie 
dormant  the  first  year. 

Oak.    See  Quercus. 
Obeliscaria.    See  Rudbeckia. 
Ochna.     Ochnacecz. 

During  summer,  cuttings  may  be  made  of  growing 
shoots. 

Odontoglossum.     Orchidacece. 

Division.     See  also  under  Orchids. 

(Enothera,  including  Godetia   (Evening  Primrose).      Ona- 

grace<z. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  or  summer.  Divisions 
may  be  made.  Cuttings  of  perennials  should  be  placed 
in  a  cool  frame  in  the  early  part  of  the  season  before  flow- 
ering begins. 

Okra,  Gumbo  (Hibiscus  esculentus}.     Malvaceae. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand,,  or  started  in 
pots  often  in  the  north. 

Olax.     Olacine&. 

Grown  from  cuttings  of  firm  or  mature  shoots  in  heat. 


OLEA ONION.  28l 

Olea.     Oleacea. 

The  ornamental  species  are  grown  from  cuttings  of 
ripened  shoots,  either  under  frames  or  in  the  border,  and 
also  by  seeds.  For  propagation  of  O.  Europcea,  see  Olive. 

Oleander.    See  Nerium. 
Oleaster.    See  Elseagnus. 

Olive  (Olea  Europcea}.     Oleacece. 

The  olive  is  grown  in  large  quantities  from  seed,  espe- 
cially in  Europe.  The  pulp  is  removed  by  maceration  or 
by  treating  with  potash.  The  pits  should  be  cracked  or 
else  softened  by  soaking  in  strong  lye,  otherwise  they  win 
lie  dormant  for  one  or  two  years.  Cuttings  of  any  kind 
will  grow.  Limbs,  either  young  or  old,  an  inch  or  two 
inches  in  diameter,  and  from  i  to  2  feet  long,  are  often 
stuck  into  the  ground  where  the  trees  are  to  grow,  or  they 
are  sometimes  used  in  the  nursery.  Green  cuttings,  with 
the  leaves  on,  are  often  used,  being  handled  in  frames  or 
in  boxes  of  sand.  Chips  from  old  trunks,  if  kept  warm 
and  moist,  will  grow.  The  olive  is  often  propagated  by 
truncheons  of  trunks.  A  trunk  2  or  3  inches  in  diameter 
is  cut  into  foot  or  two-feet  lengths,  and  each  length  is  split 
through  the  middle.  Each  half  is  planted  horizontally, 
bark  up,  4  or  5  inches  deep,  in  warm  moist  soil.  The 
sprouts  which  arise  may  be  allowed  to  grow,  or  they  may 
be  made  into  green  cuttings.  Knaurs  (see  page  64)  are 
sometimes  used.  The  olive  can  be  budded  or  grafted  in 
a  variety  of  ways.  Twig-budding  and  plate  or  H-budding 
(Figs.  96,  97,  98)  give  admirable  results,  and  are  probably 
the  best  methods.  Twig-budding  is  the  insertion  of  a 
small  growing  twig  which  is  cut  from  the  branch  in  just 
the  manner  in  which  shield- buds  are  cut.  (Fig.  96.)  Side- 
grafting  is  also  successful.  (Fig.  113.) 

Omphalodes,  Picotia.     Borraginacecz . 

Freely  increased  by  means  of  seeds  planted  in  spring, 
or  by  division. 

Oncidium.     Orchidacecs -. 

Division.  In  some  species  detachable  buds  are  pro- 
duced in  the  inflorescence,  and  these  give  young  plants. 
(See  also  under  Orchids.) 

Onion  (Allium  Cepa  and  A.  fistulosum}.     Liliacece. 

Onions  are  mostly  grown  from  seeds,  which  must  be 


282  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

sown  as  early  as  possible  in  spring  ;  or  in  the  south  they 
may  be  sown  in  the  fall.  They  are  also  grown  from 
"tops,"  which  are  bulblets  borne  in  the  flower  cluster. 
These  are  planted  in  the  spring,  or  in  the  fall  in  mild  cli- 
mates, and  they  soon  grow  into  large  bulbs.  "Sets  "  are 
also  used.  These  are  very  small  onions,  and  when  planted 
they  simply  complete  their  growth  into  large  bulbs.  Sets 
are  procured  by  sowing  seeds  very  thickly  in  poor  soil. 
The  bulbs  soon  crowd  each  other,  and  growth  is  checked, 
causing  them  to  ripen  prematurely.  Good  sets  should 
not  be  more  than  a-half  inch  in  diameter.  Very  small 
onions  which  are  selected  from  the  general  crop— called 
"  rare-ripes  " — are  sometimes  used  as  sets,  but  they  are 
usually  too  large  to  give  good  results.  Some  onions — the 
"multiplier"  or  "potato  onions" — increase  themselves 
by  division  of  the  bulb.  The  small  bulb,  which  is  planted 
in  the  spring,  splits  up  into  several  distinct  portions,  each 
one  of  which  will  multiply  itself  in  the  same  manner  when 
planted  the  following  year. 

Onobrychis  (Saintfoin).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  remain. 
Onosma  (Golden  Drop).     Borraginacece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  the  open  in  spring.  Perennial  species 
by  cuttings  in  summer. 

Opuntia  (Prickly  Pear,  Indian  Fig).     Cactacece. 

Seeds  grow  readily,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  ordinary 
sandy  soil,  either  in  the  house  or  outdoors.  The  joints 
grow  readily  if  laid  on  sand.  It  is  customary  to  allow 
these  cuttings  to  dry  several  days  before  planting  them. 
See  also  Cactus. 

Orach  (A triplex:  hortensis}.     Chenopodiacetz . 
Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 

Orange  {Citrus  Aurantium,  etc.).     Rutacecz. 

Orange  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  should  be 
cleaned  and  stratified  in  sand  or  other  material,  until  sow- 
ing time.  The  seeds  should  not  be  allowed  to  become 
hard  and  dry.  Some  prefer  to  let  the  seeds  sprout  in  the 
sand  and  then  sow  them  in  the  nursery,  but  they  must  be 
carefully  handled.  The  seeds  are  usually  sown  in  seed 
beds,  after  the  manner  of  apple  seeds,  and  the  seedlings 
are  transplanted  the  next  fall  or  spring  into  nursery  rows. 
Care  must  always  be  exercised  in  handling  orange  plants 


ORANGE.  283 

Orange,  continued. 

as  they  are  often  impatient  of  transplanting.  Oranges 
grow  readily  from  cuttings,  although  cuttage  is  not  often 
practiced.  Green  cuttings,  handled  under  .a  frame,  give 
good  results.  Mature  wood,  either  one  or  two  years  old, 
can  be  treated  after  the  manner  of  long  grape  cuttings. 
They  must  have  an  abundance  of  moisture.  Layers  are 
sometimes  made. 

The  named  varieties  are  shield-budded  upon  other 
stocks.  Grafting  can  be  practiced,  but  it  is  often  unsatis- 
factory. The  nursery  stocks  are  commonly  budded  in  the 
spring,  after  having  grown  in  the  rows  one  year,  which  is 
two  years  from  the  sowing  of  the  seed.  If  thorn-bearing 
varieties  are  to  be  propagated,  a  thorn  with  a  bud  in  its 
axil  is  often  cut  with  the  bud,  to  serve  as  a  handle  in 
place  of  the  leaf-stalk,  which  is  used  in  summer  budding. 
Many  stocks  are  used  for  the  orange.  The  leading  ones 
are  sweet  or  common  orange,  sour  orange  (Citrus  Auran- 
tium,  var.  Bigaradia],  pomelo  (Citrus  decumana},  Ota- 
heite  orange,  trifoliate  orange  (Citrus,  or  sEgle,  trifoli- 
ata],  and  various  lemons,  as  the  ''French"  or  Florida 
Rough  and  the  Chinese.  For  general  purposes,  the  sweet 
and  sour  orange  stocks  are  probably  the  best.  The  sour 
stock  is  obtained  from  wild  seeds,  this  variety  having 
extensively  run  wild  in  Florida  from  early  times.  The 
trifoliate  and  Otaheite  stocks  are  used  for  dwarfing  or  for 
small  growing  sorts,  as  many  of  the  Japanese  varieties. 
The  trifoliate  orange  is  also  one  of  the  hardiest  of  the 
orange  stocks,  and  its  use  will  probably  increase  upon  the 
northern  limit  of  the  orange  belt.  Old  orange  trees  can 
be  top-budded  with  ease.  It  is  advisable  to  cut  them 
back  a  year  before  the  operation  is  performed,  in  order 
to  secure  young  shoots  in  which  to  bud.  In  ordinary 
greenhouse  practice,  the  seedlings  of  the  pomelo  make 
good  stocks.  They  can  be  established  in  three-inch  pots 
the  first  season,  and  veneer-grafted  the  next  winter. 

The  Rowell  method  of  propagating  the  orange  (so 
named  for  William  M.  Rowell,  Fort  Meade,  Florida,  its 
inventor)  is  thus  described  by  a  local  Florida  newspaper 
(Bartow  Courier-Informant,  1891)  : 

"Mr.  Rowell's  process  is  almost  startling  in  novelty, 
yet  it  is  very  simple.  Briefly  stated,  it  is  about  as  follows  : 
Cuttings  ^  to  %  inch  in  diameter  and  loor  12  inches  long, 
are  taken  from  any  healthy  citrus  tree,  and  buds  of  any 
desired  variety  are  put  in  them.  This  is  done  in  the 
house  or  barn,  and  as  the  cuttings  are  budded  they  are 


284  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Orange,  concluded. 

placed  in  boxes  and  lightly  covered  with  dirt.  There  they 
remain  until  wanted  for  planting.  The  cuttings  will  form 
roots,  but  the  buds  will  remain  dormant  until  the  cuttings 
are  transplanted,  whether  that  be  three  weeks  or  three 
years. 

' '  When  planting  in  grove  form,  the  cuttings  are  placed 
in  a  vertical  position  if  seedling  trees  are  to  be  imitated, 
or  in  an  almost  horizontal  position  if  it  be  the  grower's 
intention  to  plant  close  and  produce  small  trees ;  and 
when  the  object  is  to  dwarf  the  trees,  the  cuttings  are 
almost  inverted.  In  either  case,  the  cutting  is  entirely 
covered  with  dirt,  except  the  portion  occupied  by  the  bud, 
which  is  protected  by  a  small  cylinder  of  zinc,  2  or 
3  inches  long,  which  is  fitted  to  the  cutting  and  protrudes 
through  the  soil,  giving  light  and  air  to  the  bud.  This  is 
removed,  however,  when  the  bud  attains  a  height  of  10  or 
12  inches,  and  the  soil  is  then  drawn  up  around  the  bud. 
The  subsequent  cultivation  is  the  same  as  with  trees 
propagated  in  the  usual  way.  Mr.  Rowell  has  applied  for 
a  patent  on  the  tube. 

"Now  for  results.  Mr.  Rowell  has  a  grove  which  has 
been  produced  by  his  method.  It  is  on  new  pine  land 
that  has  never  been  cowpenned  or  fertilized  in  any  way. 
The  grove  is  now  yielding  its  first  crop — over  300  oranges 
to  the  tree  in  some  instances — and  is  only  three  years  old. 
The  public  is  invited  to  inspect  these  trees  and  compare 
them  with  any  well  cared-for  seeedlings  six  years  old. 
There  are  some  other  advantages  claimed  for  this  system 
of  propagation  which  we  cannot  now  point  out. 

"Mr.  Rowell  has  Japan  persimmons  budded  in  the 
same  way." 

Orchids.    Orchidacece. 

The  method  of  propagating  these  plants  must  in  each 
species  be  adapted  to  the  habit  and  mode  of  growth.  The 
easiest  and  safest  plan  for  the  vast  majority  is  by  division, 
but  seeds,  cuttings,  layers,  offsets,  and  very  rarely  roots, 
are  also  utilized.  It  is  important  that  artificial  means  of 
increase  should  only  be  adopted  where  the  individual 
plants  are  in  robust  health.  With  many  orchids  the  strug- 
gle of  life  under  the  unnatural  conditions  we  supply,  is 
necessarily  severe,  and  any  operation  which  transforms 
one  weak  plant  into  two  or  more  weaker  ones,  is  to  be 
deprecated.  In  cases  where  the  only  method  available 
necessitates  disturbance  at  the  roots,  consideration  must 


ORCHIDS.  285 

Orchids,  continued. 

be  paid  to  the  constitution  of  the  species,  for  some  orchids, 
even  when  perfectly  healthy,  strongly  resent  interference. 

Seeds. — In  no  class  of  cultivated  plants  is  propagation 
by  seeds  more  difficult  and  tedious  than  it  is  with  orchids. 
In  all  cases,  fertilization  must  be  performed  by  hand.  In 
England,  the  length  of  time  required  for  the  capsules  to 
ripen  varies  from  three  months  to  a  year.  Good  seeds 
form  a  very  small  proportion  of  the  whole,  and  it  occa- 
sionally happens  that  the  contents  of  a  capsule  will  not 
produce  a  single  plant.  This,  however,  as  well  as  the  dif- 
ficulty experienced  in  England  in  rearing  plants  to  the 
flowering  stage,  is  primarily  due  to  the  deficiency  of  sun- 
light, and  in  such  a  bright  climate  as  that  of  the  United 
States,  would  not  be  likely  to  occur.  Various  methods  of 
sowing  are  in  vogue,  such  as  sprinkling  over  pieces  of 
wood  and  cork  or  tree-fern  stem,  and  on  the  top  of  moss 
and  peat,  in  which  established  plants  of  the  same  or  a 
nearly  related  species  are  growing.  The  last  is  probably 
the  best,  but  it  is  always  advisable  to  try  several  methods. 
Of  course,  the  material  on  which  the  seeds  are  scattered 
must  always  be  kept  moist  and  shaded.  The  period  be- 
tween germination  and  the  development  of  the  first  root 
is  the  most  critical  in  the  life  of  a  seedling  orchid.  After 
they  are  of  sufficient  size  to  handle  they  are  potted  off  into 
tiny  pots,  and  as  they  gain  strength,  are  given  treatment 
approximating  that  of  adult  plants. 

Division. — Cypripediums  may  be  taken  as  an  example 
where  this  is  readily  done.  It  is  simply  necessary  to  care- 
fully shake  off  the  soil  from  the  roots,  and  by  the  aid  of  a 
sharp  knife,  sever  the  plant  into  as  many  pieces  as  are  re- 
quired. It  is  always  advisable  to  leave  one  or  more  lead- 
ing growths  to  each  portion.  This  method  may  be  prac- 
ticed for  the  increase  of  phaius,  masdevallia,  sobralia,  ada, 
the  evergreen  section  of  calanthe,  and  all  of  similar  habit. 

In  nearly  all  those  kinds  where  the  pseudo-bulbs  are 
united  by  a  procumbent  rhizome,  such  as  occurs  in  cat- 
tleyas,  the  process  is  slower.  It  seems  to  be  natural  for 
these  plants  to  continue  year  after  year,  producing  a  single 
growth  from  the  old  pseudo-bulb.  To  obtain  additional 
"leads,"  the  rhizomes  should  be  cut  through  in  early 
spring,  two  or  three  pseudo-bulbs  being  reserved  to  each 
piece.  A  bud  will  then  push  from  the  base  of  each 
pseudo-bulb  nearest  the  division,  and  a  new  lead  is 
formed.  The  pieces  should  not  be  separated  until  this  is 
well  established,  and  three  years  may  sometimes  be  re- 


286  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Orchids,  concluded. 

quired.  Laelia,  catasetum,  ccelogyne,  lycaste,  cymbidium, 
zygopetalum,  odontoglossum,  oncidium,  miltonia,  etc., 
are  treated  in  this  manner. 

Cuttings. — This  method  is  available  for  those  kinds  with 
long,  jointed  stems,  like  dendrobium  and  epidendrum. 
Just  before  the  plants  commence  to  grow,  say  in  February, 
the  old  pseudo-bulbs  are  cut  up  into  lengths,  and  laid  on  a 
moist,  warm  surface,  such  as  a  pan  of  moss  in  a  propagat- 
ing frame.  Young  offshoots  will  shortly  appear  at  the 
nodes,  and  when  large  enough  are  potted  off  with  the  old 
piece  attached.  This  plan  may  be  used  also  for  barkeria 
and  microstylis. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  in  any  method  of  propaga- 
tion where  the  pseudo-bulb  is  divided,  the  vigor  of  the 
young  plant  is  proportionate  to  the  amount  of  reserve 
material  supplied  it.  However  suitable  the  external  con- 
ditions may  be  for  growth,  it  is  for  some  time  entirely  de- 
pendent for  sustenance  on  the  old  piece  from  which  it 
springs.  Dendrobium  Phalcznopsis  is  a  case  in  point. 
If  a  pseudo-bulb  is  cut  into  say  three  pieces,  it  will  take 
at  least  two  years  for  the  young  plants  to  reach  flowering 
strength,  but  frequently,  by  using  the  entire  pseudo-bulb, 
we  can  get  in  a  single  year  a  growth  quite  as  large  as  the 
old  one. 

The  treatment  of  young  orchids  should  be  founded  on 
what  suits  the  parents.  As  a  rule,  however,  they  require 
more  careful  nursing,  and  some  of  the  conditions  must 
be  modified.  Drought,  intense  light  and  cold  draughts 
must  be  avoided.  For  many  orchids,  especially  those 
from  equatorial  regions,  where  the  atmospheric  conditions 
alternate  between  saturation  and  intense  heat  and  dry- 
ness,  it  is  necessary,  in  order  to  induce  flowering,  that 
nature,  to  some  extent  at  least,  should  be  imitated.  With 
young  plants,  by  whatever  method  they  may  be  obtained, 
the  supply  of  water  must  only  be  reduced  in  accordance 
with  the  weather  and  season,  and  beyond  that,  no  at- 
tempt at  resting  made.  In  cases,  however,  where  plants 
have  been  divided  or  made  into  cuttings,  a  very  limited 
supply  of  water  is  needed  at  first ;  but  to  prevent  exhaus- 
tion, the  atmosphere  should  always  be  kept  laden  with 
moisture. 

Oreopanax.     Araliaceez. 

Seeds,  and  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  or  division  of 
well-established  plants. 


ORNITHOGALUM OXYLOBIUM.  287 

Ornithogalum  (Star  of  Bethlehem).     Liliactz. 

Seeds.     Commonly  by  bulbels,  and  by  division. 
Orobus  (Bitter  Vetch).     Leguminosce. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  dividing  the  tufts. 
Orontium.  Aroidece. 

Commonly  increased  by  division,  but  seeds  may  be  used. 
Orpine.     See  Sedum. 
Osage  Orange.    See  Maclura. 
Osier.     See  Salix  and  Cornus. 
Osmanthus  (Japan  Holly).     Oleacecz. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  under  glass,  or  by  grafting  on 
osmanthus  stock,  or  on  privet. 

Osmunda  (Flowering  Fern).     Filices. 

Mostly  by  division  ;  sometimes  by  spores.  See  Ferns. 
Ostrowskia  (Giant  Bellwort).  Campanulacece . 

Propagated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  perennial  cam- 
panulas, which  see. 

Ostrya  (Hop  Hornbeam,  Iron  wood).     Cupulifercz. 

Best  grown  from  seeds.  Also  increased  by  layering; 
or  it  can  be  grafted.  The  European  species  is  often 
grafted  upon  the  hornbeam  (carpinus). 

Othonopsis,  Othonna  ( Ragwort).     Composites. 

Very  easily  propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings.  The 
leaves  also  take  root. 

Ouvirandra  (Lattice-leaf).     Naiadacece . 

The  plants  are  divided ;  or  seeds  are  used  when  they 
can  be  obtained. 

Oxalis      Geraniacece. 

Seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings.  The  tuberiferous  species 
are  increased  by  the  small  tubers  upon  the  roots. 

Oxydendnim  (Sorrel-tree).     Eriacacetz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  must  be  handled  carefully  in 
light  soil.  Also  by  layers,  which,  however,  often  root 
with  difficulty. 

Oxylobium  (Callistachys).     Leguminoscz. 

Cuttings  of  firm  wood,  in  spring,  under  glass. 


288  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Oxytropis.     Leguminosez. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand  ; 
also  by  dividing  the  plant  in  spring. 

Oyster  Plant.    See  Salsify. 

Paeony  (Peony,  Piney).     Ranunculacece. 

Seeds,  giving  new  varieties,  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 
The  seedlings  seldom  rise  above  the  surface  the  first  year, 
all  their  energies  being  spent  in  the  formation  of  roots. 
The  common  herbaceous  varieties  are  oftenest  propagated 
by  division  of  the  clumps.  Each  portion  should  possess 
at  least  one  bud  upon  the  crown.  All  woody  species  may 
be  increased  by  layers  and  cuttings.  Cuttings  are  taken 
late  in  summer,  cut  to  a  heel,  and  are  handled  in  a  frame 
or  cool  greenhouse.  During  winter  they  should  be  kept 
from  freezing.  The  shrubby  species  and  P.  Moutan  are 
often  grafted,  and  all  species  can  be  handled  in  this  way. 
The  operation  is  performed  in  late  summer  or  early  au- 
tumn, and  the  grafts  are  stored  in  sand  or  moss  where 
they  will  not  freeze.  The  next  spring  they  are  planted 
out.  The  cion  is  made  from  a  strong  short  shoot,  desti- 
tute of  flower  buds,  and  is  set  upon  a  piece  of  root,  as 
described  on  pages  128,  129.  Some  prefer  to  cut  a  wedge- 
shaped  portion  from  the  side  of  the  stock,  in  which  to  in- 
lay the  cion,  rather  than  to  split  the  stock  ;  but  either  prac- 
tice is  good.  Strong  roots  of  various  varieties  or  species 
maybe  used.  The'Chinese  paeony  (P.  Moutan),  P.  offi- 
cinalis  and  P.  albiflora  are  oftenest  used. 

Paliurus,  Aubletia  (Christ's  Thorn).     Rhamnacecs, 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  by  layers  or  by  cuttings  of 
the  roots. 

Palma-Christi.     See  Ricinus. 

Palmetto.    See  Sabal,  and  Palms. 

Palms.     Palmacece. 

Palms  are  mostly  grown  from  imported  seeds.  These 
should  always  be  sown  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat,  in  a  mix- 
ture of  coarse  loam  and  sand.  A  hotbed,  established 
upon  the  greenhouse  bench,  is  an  excellent  place  in  which 
to  start  palm  seeds.  Some  species  are  increased  by 
suckers,  which  arise  from  the  crown  or  roots.  For  more? 
explicit  directions,  see  the  various  genera. 

Pampas  Grass.    See  Gynerium. 


PANAX — PARSNIP.  289 

Panax.     See  Ginseng. 

Pancratium  and  Hymenocallis.     Amaryllidacecs. 

Seeds,  sown  in  pans  in  heat,  are  sometimes  employed. 
Commonly  increased  by  offsets,  which  usually  form  freely. 

Pandanus  (Screw  Pine).     Pandanacece. 

Seeds  and  suckers,  as  in  palms.  Also  by  cuttings  of 
the  young  growth  in  heat.  The  "  seeds  "  are  really  fruits, 
and  if  in  good  condition  several  plants,  one  to  ten,  are 
obtainable  from  each  ;  they  should  be  separated  when 
well  furnished  with  roots.  These  seeds  are  easily  ob- 
tained in  the  tropics,  and  are  planted  in  moist  black  soil  in 
beds  or  pots.  When  the  plants  appear,  the  little  clumps 
are  separated  and  the  plantlets  potted  off. 

Pansy.    See  Viola. 

Papaver  (Poppy).     Papaveracece. 

Seeds — usually  sown  outdoors — and  divisions.  P.  ori- 
entale  and  allied  species  are  easily  propagated  by  root- 
cuttings  in  sandy  soil  under  glass  in  autumn. 

Papaw-tree.     See  Carica  ;  also  Asimina. 
Papyrus.     Cyperacecs. 

Propagation  by  seeds  and  by  divisions,  chiefly  the  latter. 
Pardanthus.    See  Belamcanda. 
Paris.     Liliacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Paris  Daisy.     See  Marguerite. 
Parkinsonia.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  mostly.     Cuttings. 
Parnassia  (Grass  of  Parnassus).     Saxifragacece. 

May  be  propagated  by  seeds  or  by  divisions. 
Parrotia.     Hamamelidecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  by  layers. 
Parsley  (Apium  Petroselinum}.     Umbellifertz. 

Seeds,  which  are  usually  sown  outdoors.  The  roots 
may  be  taken  up  in  fall  to  be  forced  under  glass. 

Parsnip  ( Pastinaca  sativa ) .     Umbelliferce. 

Fresh  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 


2QO  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Pasque-flower.    See  Anemone. 

Passiflora  (Passion  Flower).     Passifloracece . 

Seeds,    sown    under    glass.      Cuttings    of    the    young 
growth   root  easily   in   sand   in   a   frame.      Varieties  are 
sometimes  veneer-grafted,  e.  g,,  P.  coccinea,     P.  coerulea 
•  propagates  by  root-cuttings. 

Paulo  wnia.     Scrophulariacecs. 

Seeds,  sown  in  carefully  prepared  soil,  either  in  a  seed 
bed  or  in  a  coldframe.  Cuttings  of  ripe  wood  or  of  roots 
made  in  fall  or  spring. 

Pea  (Pisum  sativuni).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  The  plants 
are  hardy  and  seeds  may  be  sown  very  early.  For  Cow- 
Pea,  see  Vigna. 

Peach  (Prunus  Persica).     Rosacece. 

The  peach  is  perhaps  the  easiest  to  propagate  of  all 
northern  fruit  trees.  Stocks  are  universally  grown  from 
seeds,  although  root-cuttings  will  grow.  The  seeds 
should  be  buried  outdoors  in  the  summer  or  fall,  and  shal- 
low enough  so  that  they  will  be  fully  exposed  to  frost. 
Some  prefer  to  simply  spread  them  upon  the  surface  of 
the  ground  and  cover  them  lightly  with  straw  to  prevent 
them  from  drying  out.  The  pits  should  be  kept  moist, 
and  by  spring  most  of  them  will  be  cracked.  Those 
which  do  not  open  should  be  cracked  by  hand,  for  if 
planted  they  will  not  germinate  until  a  year  later  than  the 
others.  In  large  nurseries,  however,  the  cracking  of  peach 
pits  by  hand  is  too  expensive  to  be  practiced.  The 
"meats"  or  kernels  are  sorted  out  and  planted  early  in 
drills.  Some  prefer  to. sprout  the  seeds  in  the  house,  in 
order  to  select  the  best  for  planting.  Some  growers  upon 
a  small  scale  pinch  off  the  tip  of  the  rootlet  to  make  the 
root  branch.  Pits  should  be  secured,  of  course,  from 
strong  and  healthy  trees,  but  the  opinion  that  "natural 
seed,"  or  that  from  unbudded  trees,  is  necessarily  best,  is 
unfounded. 

The  seeds  should  be  planted  in  rich  soil,  and  the  stocks 
will  be  large  enough  to  bud  the  same  year.  Any  which 
are  not  large  enough  to  bud  may  be  cut  back  to  the 
ground  the  next  spring,  and  one  shoot  be  allowed  to 
grow  for  budding,  but  such  small  stocks  are  usually 
destroyed,  as  it  does  not  pay  to  bestow  the  extra  labor 
and  use  of  land  upon  them.  When  the  buds  have  grown 


PEACH — PEAR.  291 

one  season,  the  trees  are  ready  for  sale — at  one  year  from 
the  bud  and  two  years  from  the  seed.  Peach  trees  should 
never  be  more  than  a  year  old  (from  the  bud)  for  orchard 
planting.  June-budded  trees  are  much  used  in  the  south 
(see  page  103).  Peach  trees  are  always  shield-budded, 
and  the  operation  is  fully  described  on  pages  95  to  105. 
Grafting  can  be  done,  but  as  budding  is  so  easily  per- 
formed, there  is  no  occasion  for  it.  The  peach  shoots  are 
so  pithy  that,  in  making  cions,  it  is  well  to  leave  a  portion 
of  the  old  wood  upon  the  lower  end— extending  part  way 
up  the  cut— to  give  the  cion  strength.  Peach  wounds  heal 
so  slowly  and  imperfectly  th'at  grafting  is  never  to  be 
recommended. 

Peaches  are  nearly  always  worked  upon  peaches  in  this 
country.  Plums  are  occasionally  employed  for  damp  and 
strong  soils.  Myrobalan  plum  is  sometimes  used,  but  it 
cannot  be  recommended.  All  plums  dwarf  the  peach 
more  or  less.  The  hard-shell  almond  is  a  good  stock 
for  very  light  and  dry  soils.  The  Peen-to  and  similar 
peaches  are  worked  upon  common  peach  stocks. 

The  ornamental  peaches  are  budded  upon  common 
peach  stocks  in  the  same  manner  as  the  fruit-bearing  sorts. 

The  nectarine  is  propagated  in  exactly  the  same  manner 
as  the  peach. 

For  Prunus  Simoni,  see  Plum. 

Pea-nut.    See  Arachis. 

Pear,  Alligator  or  Avocado.    See  Persea. 

Pear  ( Pyrus  corn-munis,  P.  Sinensis}.     Rosacece. 

Pear  seedlings  are  grown  in  the  same  manner  as  those 
of  the  apple,  which  see.  Pear  stocks  are  imported  from 
France,  however,  as  the  leaf-blight  is  so  destructive  to 
them  here  as  to  render  their  culture  unprofitable.  This 
leaf-blight  is  a  fungus  (Entomosporium  maculatum],  and 
recent  experiment  has  shown  that  it  can  be  readily  over- 
come by  four  or  five  thorough  sprayings  with  Bordeaux 
mixture,  so  that  there  is  reason  to  hope  that  the  growing 
of  pear  stocks  may  yet  become  profitable  in  this  country, 
although  the  higher  price  of  labor  here,  and  the  drier  sum- 
mers, are  serious  disadvantages.  Heretofore,  the  only 
means  of  mitigating  the  ravages  of  this  blight  was  the 
uncertain  one  of  inducing  a  strong  growth  early  in  the 
season.  Even  when  pear  stocks  are  raised  in  this  coun- 
try, they  are  grown  from  imported  French  seed.  Aside 


2Q2  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Pear,  continued. 

from  its  cheapness,  however,  this  foreign  seed  probably 
possesses  no  superiority  over  domestic  seed.  But  pear 
seed  is  so  difficult  to  obtain  in  America  that  it  is  practi- 
cally out  of  the  market.  Seedlings  of  the  sand  pear  type 
have  been  strongly  recommended  for  stocks,  but  they  do 
not  attain  general  favor  amongst  nurserymen. 

Pear  seedlings  should  be  taken  up  and  removed  from 
the  seed-bed  the  first  fall.  The  foreign  stocks  are  im- 
ported when  a  year  old  from  the  seed.  The  seedlings  are 
trimmed  and  sometimes  "dressed"  (see  page  96),  and  are 
set  into  nursery  rows  the  following  spring.  The  next  sea- 
son—  that  is,  the  season  in  which  the  stocks  are  trans- 
planted—  shield-budding  is  performed,  as  upon  the  apple. 

«  The  budding  season  usually  begins  late  in  July  or  early  in 
August  in  the  north.  If  the  stocks  are  small,  of  "second 
size,"  they  may  stand  over  winter  and  be  budded  the 
second  year.  Pear  trees  are  sold  at  two  and  three  years 
from  the  bud.  Pears  do  not  succeed  well  when  root- 
grafted,  except  when  a  long  cion  is  used,  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  own-rooted  trees  (see  page  no).  Dormant 
buds  of  the  pear  may  be  used  upon  large  stocks  in  early 
spring,  the  same  as  upon  the  apple  and  buds  may  be  kept 
upon  ice  for  use  in  early  summer  (see  page  103). 

Pears  are  dwarfed  by  working  them  upon  the  quince. 
The  Angers  quince  is  the  best  stock.  The  ordinary 
orange  quince  and  its  kin  generally  make  weak  and  short- 
lived trees.  Quince  stocks  are  obtained  from  ordinary 
cuttings  or  from  mound-layering,  the  latter  method  giving 
much  the  better  stocks  (see  Quince).  The  layers  should 
-be  removed  the  first  autumn  ;  or,  if  they  are  not  rooted 
then,  thev  may  be  left  a  year  longer,  when  they  will  be 
found  to  be  well  rooted,  and  may  then  be  taken  off, 
trimmed  up  and  fitted  to  plant  as  stocks  the  following 
spring,  and  budded  in  August.  Quince  stocks  are  bought 
in  Europe,  whence  they  arrive  in  the  fall.  They  are 
"  dressed"  and  set  in  nursery  rows  the  following  spring, 
and  the  buds  are  set  during  the  first  season.  It  is  im- 
perative to  set  the  bud  as  low  as  possible  in  order  to  se- 
cure trees  which  can  easily  be  set  deep  enough  to  cover 
the  union  (4  to  6  inches  below  the  surface  is  the  common 
depth  of  planting  dwarf  pears).  Some  varieties  do  not 
unite  well  with  the  quince,  and  if  it  is  desired  to  dwarf 
them,  they  should  be  double-worked  (see  page  133). 
Some  of  the  common  and  popular  varieties  which  thrive 
directly  upon  the  quince  (without  double-working)  are  the 


I»EAR — FECAN.  293 

Pear,  concluded. 

following:  Angouleme  (Duchess),  Anjou,  Louise  Bonne, 
Howell,  White  Doyenne  (Virgalieu),  Manning's  Elizabeth, 
Lawrence.  Varieties  which  usually  thrive  better  when 
double-worked  are  Clairgeau,  Bartlett,  Seckel,  and  others. 

The  pear  can  also  be  grown  upon  the  apple,  thorn  and 
mountain  ash.  Upon  the  apple  it  is  short-lived,  although 
pear  cions,  set  in  the  top  of  an  old  apple  tree,  often  bear 
large  fruits  for  a  few  years.  When  pear  stocks  cannot  be 
had,  pears  are  sometimes  worked  upon  apple  roots.  If 
the  cions  are  long  they  will  emit  roots,  and  when  the  ap- 
ple nurse  fails  the  pear  becomes  own-rooted.  Good 
dwarf  trees  are  often  secured  upon  the  thorn,  and  there 
is  reason  to  believe  that  some  of  the  thorns  will  be  found 
to  be  preferable  to  quince  stocks  for  severe  climates  and 
for  special  purposes.  The  subject  is  little  understood. 
The  mountain  ash  is  sometimes  used  for  the  purpose  of 
growing  pears  upon  a  sandy  soil,  but  its  use  appears  to 
be  of  little  consequence. 

Pears  of  the  Le  Conte  and  Kieffer  type  are  often  grown 
from  cuttings  in  the  south.  Cuttings  are  made  of  the  re- 
cent mature  growth,  about  a  foot  in  length,  and  are 
planted  in  the  open  ground,  after  the  manner  of  long 
grape  cuttings.  Le  Conte,  Garber,  Smith,  and  other  very 
strong  growers  of  the  Chinese  type,  are  probably  best 
when  grown  from  cuttings.  They  soon  overgrow  French 
stocks,  as  also  apple  stocks,  which  have  been  used  to 
some  extent ;  but  if  long  cions  are  used,  own-rooted  trees 
are  soon  obtained,  and  the  stock  will  have  served  a  use- 
ful purpose  in  pushing  the  cion  the  first  two  or  three 
years. 

Pecan  (Hicoria  Pecan}.    Juglandacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  These  may  be  planted  as  soon 
as  ripe,  or  stratified  until  spring.  The  ground  should  be 
well  prepared,  and  the  nuts  planted  about  3  inches  deep. 
By  grafting  on  pecan  or  common  hickory  stock  that  is  not 
over  2  years  old.  Cions  about  6  inches  long  should  be 
cut  during  the  winter  and  put  in  a  cool  place  to  hold 
them  back  until  the  stocks  have  fairly  started  in  the 
spring.  The  stalks  should  then  be  cut  off  at  (or  prefera- 
bly 3  to  6  inches  below)  the  crown,  and  the  cion  inserted. 
The  tongue-graft  gives  the  best  result,  although,  as  in  all 
nuts,  the  skill  of  the  grafter  is  more  important  than  the 
method.  Bandage  securely,  and  bank  with  earth  nearly 
to  the  top  of  the  cion,  to  keep  it  moist.  It  can  also  be 
T 


294  ™E  NURSERY  Book. 

budded,  like  peaches.  The  pecan  and  othev  rickones 
will  also  grow  from  cuttings  of  the  ends  of  the  soft  grow- 
ing roots.  See  Hicoria. 

Pelargonium  (Geranium,  Stork's  Bill).     Geraniacece. 

Seeds,  sown  in  light  soil  with  mild  heat,  are  sometimes 
employed.  Commonly  increased  by  cuttings  of  firm 
shoots,  which  grow  readily  (Figs.  69  c,  and  73).  The 
common  geraniums,  for  conservatory  use,  should  be  re- 
newed from  cuttings  every  year.  The  fancy  or  show  gera- 
niums are  often  grown  from  root-cuttings,  but  sometimes 
will  not  come  true.  Geraniums  can  also  be  grafted.  (See 
page  130,  herbaceous  grafting.) 

Pelecyphora  (Hatchet  Cactus).     Cactacecs. 

Propagated  most  freely  by  seeds  in  moderate  heat,  and 
by  cuttings  made  of  any  small  shoots  that  arise  from  the 
base.  See  also  Cactus. 

Peltandra.     Aroidece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  when  fresh,  or  by  division. 
Pennyroyal  (Mentha  Pulegium}.     Labiates . 

Seeds  and  division. 
Pentstemon  (Beard-tongue).     Scrophulariacccz. 

Seeds,  sown  in  pans  and  placed  under  a  frame  ;  or  they 
are  sometimes  sown  in  the  border  where  the  plants  are 
to  stand.  Also  by  division,  and  rarely  by  cuttings  in 
summer. 

Peony.    See  Paeonia. 

Peperomia,  including  Micropiper.     Piperacecz. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  single  joints  of  firm  stems  root 
easily  in  a  peaty  soil.  Water  sparingly. 

Pepper,  Black.     See  Piper. 
Pepperidge.    See  Nyssa. 

Pepper-grass,  Curled  Cress  (Lepidium  sativum}.   Cruciferce. 
Grown  from  seeds,  either  under  glass  for  early  crops  or 
in  the  open  air. 

Peppermint  ( Mentha piperita}.     Labiates. 

Divisions  of  the  creeping  and  rooting  stems  are  planted 
to  multiply  the  plant,  and  plantations  are  renewed  every 
three  or  four  years. 


PEPPER PETALOSTEMON.  2Q5 

Pepper,  Red  or  Cayenne  (Capsicum}.     So/anace&. 

Seeds,  sown  outdoors,  or  in  the  north  oftener  started  in 

the  house. 

• 
Pereskia  (Barbadoes  Gooseberry).     Cactacece. 

Seeds.  Cuttings,  as  described  under  Cactus.  P.  acu~ 
leata  is  much  used  as  a  stock  for  epiphyllums.  P.  Bleo 
is  sometimes  used  for  the  same  purpose,  as  it  is  fully  as 
good  as  the  other  species.  Cuttings  of  P.  aculeata  can 
be  made  a  foot  or  more  in  length,  and  of  sufficient  size 
for  immediate  use  ;  or,  the  graft  may  be  inserted  when  the 
cutting  is  made. 

Perilla.    Labiates. 

Sow  the  seeds  in  early  spring  in  pans  or  boxes,  and 
place  in  a  gentle  heat.  Or  southwards,  seeds  may  be 
sown  in  the  open. 

Periploca.    Asclepiadacea . 

Seeds.  Increased  mostly  by  layers  or  cuttings  under 
glass,  during  summer  or  autumn.  Root  cuttings  succeed. 

Periwinkle.    See  Vinca. 

Persea  (Alligator  or  Avocado  Pear).     Lauracece. 

Seeds.  Layers  of  ripened  shoots  may  be  made  in  au- 
tumn ;  or  cuttings  of  firm  shoots  in  spring,  under  glass. 

Persimmon  (Diospyros  Kaki  and  D.  Virginiana.}  Ebenacece. 
Stocks  are  readily  grown  from  seed,  and  they  usually 
attain  sufficient  size  for  budding  the  first  year.  The  na- 
tive persimmon  (Diospyrus  Virginiana}  is  largely  used 
as  a  stock  for  the  Japanese  persimmon  or  kaki.  Imported 
stocks  are  occasionally  employed,  but  the  native  is  more 
vigorous,  as  a  rule,  and  probably  better.  Persimmons 
are  shield-budded  the  same  as  peaches,  and  they  may  be 
root-grafted  and  top-grafted  by  ordinary  methods.  The 
Rowell  method  of  propagating  Japanese  persimmons  is 
described  under  Orange. 

Persoonia  (Linkia).    Proteacce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened  shoots  under 
glass. 

Peruvian  Bark.    See  Cinchona. 

Petalostemon  ( Prairie  Clover).     Leguminosce 
Seeds  and  divisions. 


296  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Petunia.     Solanacece. 

Seeds,  either  indoors  or  in  the  garden.  Choice  and 
double  varieties  are  often  increased  by  cuttings,  which 
grow  readily. 

Phacelia,  Eutoca,  Whitlavia.     Hydrophyllacece. 

The  annuals  are  increased  by  seeds,  and  the  perennials 
by  seeds  and  division. 

Phaius.     Orchidacecz. 

Division  of  the  bulbs.     See  also  under  Orchids. 

Phalsenopsis.     Orchidacece. 

These  are  very  slow  and  difficult  to  propagate.  In  the 
majority  of  the  species  it  can  only  be  done  where  a  lateral 
offshoot  is  made  from  the  main  stem.  Some  species,  such 
as  P.  Luddemanniana,  and  more  rarely  P.  amabilis,  P. 
Stuartiana  and  P.  Schilleriana,  develop  plantlets  on  the 
old  flower  scapes.  By  pegging  these  down  on  a  basket 
of  moss  they  may  be  established  and  afterwards  sepa- 
rated. P.  Stuartiana  and  P.  deliciosa  have  been  known 
to  produce  plants  on  the  roots.  Other  instances  of  root- 
proliferation  are  recorded  in  Saccolabium  micranthum 
and  a  species  of  cyrtopodium.  See  under  Orchids. 

Phalaris.     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  but  the  sports  or  varieties  by 
division. 

Phaseolus  (Bean,  Kidney,  Pole,  String,  Lima,  French  Bean, 

etc.).     Leguminosce. 

The  ornamental  greenhouse  kinds  are  grown  from  seeds 
planted  in  light  soil  in  a  warm  propagating  house.  See 
Bean. 

Phellodendron  (Cork  Tree).     Rutacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers,  and  by  root  cuttings. 
Philadelphia  (Mock  Orange,  Syringa).     Saxifragacece. 

Seeds,  layers,  suckers,  and  cuttings.  Layers  are  some- 
times used.  Cuttings  of  mature  wood  are  generally  em- 
ployed. Some  well-marked  varieties,  like  vars.  nana  and 
aurea  of  P.  coronarius,  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  soft 
wood  in  summer  in  frames. 

Phillyrca  (Jasmine  Box,  Mock  Privet).     Oleace<z. 

Seeds.  May  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  layers,  or  by 
grafting  on  the  privet. 


PHILODENDRON — PHYSALIS.  2Q7 

Philodendron.     Aroidetz. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  and  by  dividing  the  stems,  allow- 
ing two  or  three  joints  to  each  piece,  inserting  them-  in 
pots  in  a  brisk  heat. 

Phlomis.     Labiates. 

All  of  the  species  may  be  increased  by  seeds  ;  the  her- 
baceous kinds  by  division,  and  the  shrubby  sorts  also 
by  cuttings. 

Phlox.    Polemoniacecz . 

The  annuals  are  grown  from  seeds  sown  in  the  open. 
The  perennials  are  grown  from  seeds,  divisions,  cuttings 
of  stems  and  roots.  Cuttings  made  during  summer,  and 
handled  in  a  frame,  do  well.  The  roots  are  cut  into  short 
pieces,  and  are  then  handled  in  pans  or  flats  under  cover. 

Phoenix.    See  Date. 

Phormium  (Flax  Lily,  or  New  Zealand  Flax).     Liliacecz. 

Seeds.  Also  by  division  of  the  crowns  before  growth 
commences  in  spring. 

Photinia,  including  Eriobotrya.     Rosacecz. 

Stratified  seeds  or  half- ripened  cuttings  under  glass. 
Varieties  of  loquat,  P.  Japonica,  are  grown  from  layers  or 
cuttings  of  ripe  wood  ;  it  is  also  worked  upon  seedling 
stocks  or  upon  thorn  or  quince,  after  the  manner  of  pears. 

Phyllanthus,  including  Xylophylla.     Euphorbiacecz . 

Increased  by  means  of  cuttings  of  hard  shoots  in  heat. 

Phyllocactus,  including  Phyllocereus  and  Disocactus  (Leaf 

Cactus).     Cactacece. 

Seeds  germinate  readily  in  sandy  soil.  Usually  in- 
creased by  cuttings  of  the  stems,  5  or  6  inches  long, 
placed  in  sandy  soil,  which  is  kept  only  slightly  moist. 
See  also  Cactus. 

Phyllocladus.     Conifer cz. 

Cuttings  of  the  ripened  shoots  under  glass,  in  spring. 
When  the  cuttings  begin  callusing,  give  mild  bottom  heat. 

Physalis  (Ground  or  Winter  Cherry,  Strawberry  Tomato, 

Husk  Tomato).     Solanacece. 

Seeds,  sown  outdoors  or  under  cover.  Perennials  by 
division  and  soft  cuttings. 


298  THE    NURSERff    LIST. 

Phyteuma,  Rapunculus  (Horned  Rampion).     Campanulacecz. 
Easily  increased  by  seeds  or  by  division,  in  spring. 

Phytolacca  (Spoke,  Skoke,  Poke).     Phytolaccacece. 

May  be  propagated  by  means  of  seeds,  or  by  division. 

Picea  (Spruce).     Conifer ce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sometimes  by  layers,  or  grafts. 
Seedlings  must  be  shaded  the  first  year.  Also  by  cut- 
tings of  recent  wood  (Fig.  67  and  page  64).  The  spruces 
are  easily  grafted.  P.  excelsa  (Norway  spruce)  makes 
a  good  stock ;  the  veneer-graft,  under  glass,  in  winter, 
succeeds  better  than  any  method  of  outdoor  work  prac- 
ticable in  our  climate ;  if  the  graft  is  inserted  near  the 
base  in  young  plants,  it  is  quite  possible  to  obtain  them 
on  their  own  roots  after  a  few  transplanting^.  Side  shoots 
can  be  used  as  cions,  and  if  started  in  time  will  furnish 
good  leaders ;  sometimes  a  leader  is  developed  more 
rapidly  by  bending  the  plant  over  at  nearly  a  right  angle, 
when  a  stout  bud  may  start  from  the  stem.  The  Balsam 
fir  is  also  a  good  stock.  See  Abies. 

Pickerel  Weed.    See  Pontederia. 

Picotee.    See  Dianthus  and  Carnation. 

Pie-plant.    See  Rheum. 

Pilea  (Artillery  Plant,  Stingless  Nettle).     Urticacecz. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings,  com- 
monly the  last. 

Pilocereus.    See  Cactus. 
Pimpernel.     See  Anagallis. 
Pinanga.     Palma-cecs. 

Propagated  by  seeds. 
Pinckneya.     Rubiacetz. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  the  ripened  shoots  under  glass. 

Pine-apple  ( Ananas  sativus ) .     Bromeliacece. 

Pine-apples  very  rarely  produce  seeds,  but  when  they 
are  produced  they  are  sown  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
new  varieties.  The  pine-apple  is  usually  increased  by 
suckers  and  "crowns."  If  the  root  is  left  in  the  ground 
after  the  pine  is  removed,  suckers  will  start  from  it.  The 
root  is  then  taken  up  and  cut  into  as  many  pieces  as  there 
are  suckers,  each  piece  being  then  permanently  planted. 


PINEY  —  PIQUERIA.  2QQ 

The  crown  of  the  fruit  and  the  various  offsets  or  "crown- 
lets,"  which  appear  on  the  sides  and  base  of  the  fruit, 
may  be  removed  and  used  as  cuttings.  These  offsets  are 
commonly  used  in  greenhouse  propagation.  It  is  the 
usual  practice  to  allow  them  to  dry  several  days  before 
they  are  planted,  and  in  pine-apple  regions  they  are  often 
exposed  to  the  sun  for  several  weeks.  This  operation  is 
unnecessary,  however,  although  it  is  not  objectionable. 
A  good  way  to  start  the  offsets  is  to  pull  off  the  lowest 
leaves  and  insert  the  offsets  in  damp  moss  in  shade— giv- 
ing bottom  heat  for  greenhouse  work -and  as  soon  as 
roots  begin  to  form,  which  will  occur  in  from  two  to  six 
weeks,  plant  them  out  permanently.  In  the  tropics  fruit 
can  be  obtained  in  twenty  months  after  the  offsets  are 
transplanted;  but  fruit  bearing  is  often  delayed  three  or 
four  years  under  poor  treatment. 

Piney.    See  Paeonia. 

Pinguicula  (Butterwort).     Lentibulariacecz . 

The  hardy  and  greenhouse  species  are  increased  by 
seeds,  division,  or  by  leaf  cuttings. 

Pink  (Dianthus,  various  species).     Caryophyllace<z. 

Seeds  and  division.  Best  results  by  raising  plants  from 
seed  every  two  or  three  years.  Seeds  are  usually  sown 
where  the  plants  are  to  remain  ;  or  they  may  be  sown  in  a 
coldframe  and  transplanted.  See  Carnation  and  Dianthus. 

Pinus(Pine).     Conifers. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  kept  dry  over  winter,  are  com- 
monly employed.  These  are  often  started  in  pots,  but  for 
most  species  they  are  sown  in  well  prepared  beds  out- 
doors. The  seedlings  must  usually  be  shaded  the  first 
season.  Varieties,  as  also  species  which  do  not  produce 
seed  freely,  may  be  grafted  upon  stocks  of  white  or  Aus- 
trian pine  or  other  species.  This  grafting  may  be  done 
upon  the  tips  of  growing  shoots  early  in  the  season  (page 
131),  but  it  is  oftener  performed  upon  potted  plants  by  the 
veneer  method. 

Piper,  Cubeba  (Pepper,  Cubeb).     Piperacetz. 

Seeds.  All  are  increased  by  means  of  cuttings  of  the 
growing  shoots,  inserted  in  sandy  soil  under  glass. 

Piqueria.     Composites. 

Piqueria  trinervia  (the  Stevia  serrata  of  florists)  is  gen- 
erally grown  from  cuttings,  like  fuchsias  and  carnations. 
Also  by  seeds,  which  are  freely  produced. 


3OO  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Pistacia.    Anacardiacece . 

Seeds,  cuttings  and  layers.  The  pistacio-nut  or  "green 
almond"  (P.  vera]  is  usually  grown  from  seeds,  which 
are  planted  where  the  trees  are  to  stand.  It  is  sometimes 
grafted  upon  P.  Terebinthus,  to  give  it  greater  vigor. 

Pitcairnia.    See  Billbergia. 

Pitcher-plant.    See  Nepenthes  and  Sarracenia. 

Pittosporum.     Pittosporacete. 

Seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  the  growing  or  ripe  wood, 
under  glass. 

Planera  ( Planer- tree ) .     Urticacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  handled  like  elm 
seeds. 

Plane-tree.     See  Platanus. 

Plantago  (Plantain).     Plantaginacece. 

Seeds.     The  perennial  species  also  by  division. 
Plantain  (fruit).     See  Banana  ;  also  Musa. 

Platanus  (Plane-tree,  Buttonwood  ;  Sycamore,  improperly). 

Platanacetz. 

Usually  propagated  by  seeds,  but  layers  and  ripe-wood 
cuttings  may  be  employed. 

Platycerium  (Stag's-Horn  Fern).     Filices. 

Chiefly  by  division.     See  Ferns. 
Platycodon,  Wahlenbergia.     Campanulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and,  when  old  plants  are  obtain- 
able, by  division. 

Plectocomia.    Palmacece. 

Seeds.     May  be  increased  by  suckers. 

Plum  (Prunus,  many  species).     Rosacece. 

There  are  so  many  species  of  plums  in  cultivation,  and 
the  varieties  of  the  same  species  are  often  so  different  in 
constitution  and  habit,  that  it  is  difficult  to  give  advice 
concerning  their  propagation.  All  the  species  grow  read- 
ily from  fresh,  well-ripened  seeds.  The  pits  should  be 
removed  from  the  pulp  and  then  stratified  until  spring. 
If  they  are  allowed  tcr  freeze,  the  germination  will  be 
more  uniform,  as  the  pits  will  be  more  easily  opened  by 
the  swelling  embryo.  Plum  pits  are  rarely  cracked  by 


PLUM.  301 

Plum,  continued. 

hand.  The  strong-growing  species  and  varieties,  espe- 
cially southwards,  will  give  stocks  strong  enough  to  bud 
the  first  season  ;  but  the  weaker  ones  must  stand  until  the 
next  season  after  the  seeds  are  planted.  In  all  the  north- 
ern states,  however,  plum  pits  are  usually  sown  in  seed- 
beds, in  the  same  manner  as  apple  and  pear  seeds.  The 
seedlings  are  taken  up  in  the  fall,  and  the  following  spring 
set  out  in  nursery  rows,  where  they  are  budded  in  August. 

Plums  are  extensively  grown  from  suckers,  which  spring 
in  great  numbers  from  the  roots  of  many  species.  In 
France  this  method  of  propagation  is  largely  used.  So 
long  as  graftage  does  not  intervene,  the  sprouts  will  repro- 
duce the  variety  ;  and  even  in  grafted  or  budded  trees  this 
sometimes  occurs,  but  it  is  probably  because  the  tree  has 
become  own-rooted  from  the  rooting  of  the  cion.  It  is  a 
common  notion  that  trees  grown  from  suckers  sprout  or 
sucker  worse  than  those  grown  from  seeds.  Layers  are 
also  sometimes  employed  for  the  propagation  of  the 
plum.  Strong  stools  (page  39)  are  grown,  and  the  long 
and  strong  shoots  are  covered  in  spring  throughout  their 
length — the  tips  only  being  exposed — and  every  bud  will 
produce  a  plant.  Strong  shoots  of  vigorous  sorts  will 
give  plants  strong  enough  the  first  fall  to  be  removed  into 
nursery  rows.  Mound-layering  is  also  employed  with 
good  results.  Root  cuttings,  handled  like  those  of  black- 
berry, grow  readily,  but  some  growers  suppose  that  they 
produce  trees  which  sucker  badly.  Many  plums  grow 
readily  from  cuttings  of  the  mature  recent  wood,  treated 
the  same  as  long  grape  cuttings.  This  is  especially  true 
of  the  Marianna  (which  is  a  form  of  Myrobalan.  or  a 
hybrid  of  it  and  some  native  plum  of  the  Wild  Goose 
type),  which  is  grown  almost  exclusively  from  cuttings. 
Some  sorts  of  the  common  garden  plum  (P.  domestica] 
also  grow  from  cuttings. 

Plums  are  worked  in  various  ways,  but  ordinary  shield- 
budding  is  usually  employed  in  late  summer  or  early  fall, 
as  for  peaches  and  cherries.  Root-grafting  by  the  com- 
mon whip  method  is  sometimes  employed,  especially  when 
own-rooted  trees  are  desired  (pages  109,  1 10).  In  the  north 
and  east,  the  common  plum  (P.  domestica}  is  habitually 
worked  upon  stocks  of  the  same  species,  and  these  are 
always  to  be  preferred.  These  stocks,  if  seedlings,  are 
apt  to  be  very  variable  in  size  and  habit,  and  sometimes 
half  or  more  of  any  batch,  even  from  selected  seeds,  are 
practically  worthless.  Stocks  from  inferior  or  constant 


3O2  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Plum,  continued, 

varieties  are,  therefore,  essential.  Such  stocks  are  largely 
imported ;  but  there  are  some  varieties  which  can  De 
relied  upon  in  this  country.  One  of  the  best  of  these 
domestic  stocks  is  the  Horse  plum,  a  small  and  purple- 
fruited  variety  of  Prunus  domestica,  which  gives  very 
uniform  seedlings.  This  is  sometimes  used  in  New  York. 
It  is  simply  a  spontaneous  or  wilding  plum,  in  thickets  and 
along  roadsides.  The  French  stocks  which  are  in  most 
common  use  are  St.  Julien  and  Black  Damas.  The  Myro- 
balan  (P.  cerasifera)  is  chiefly  used  for  plums,  however, 
because  of  its  cheapness  and  the  readiness  with  which  all 
varieties  take  on  it.  The  peach  is  often  used  as  a  plum 
stock,  and  it  is  valuable  in  the  south,  especially  for  light 
soils.  In  the  north  plum  stocks  are  better.  Marianna  is 
used  southwards,  very  likely  too  freely.  Almond  stocks, 
especially  for  the  French  prune  and  for  light  soils,  are 
considerably  used  in  California.  The  apricot  is  some- 
times employed,  but  results  appear  to  be  poor  or  indif- 
ferent, on  the  whole.  Prunes  thrive  upon  the  above 
stocks  also. 

Various  stocks  dwarf  the  plum.  The  chief  dwarf  stock 
at  present  is  the  Myrobalan.  This  is  imported.  It  is 
easily  grown  from  seeds,  or  sometimes  from  cuttings. 
Although  the  Myrobalan,  like  the  Mahaleb  cherry,  is  a 
slow  grower,  the  dwarfing  of  the  top  depends  more  upon 
subsequent  pruning  than  upon  the  root.  The  Mirabelle  (P. 
cerasifera),  a  foreign  stock,  is  sometimes  used.  The  many 
species  of  native  plums,  of  the  Prunus  Americana  and  P. 
angustifolia  (Chickasaw)  types,  are  good  stocks  for  dwarf  or 
intermediate  trees.  In  most  cases,  the  bud  or  graft  grows 
luxuriantly  for  two  or  three  years,  and  thereafter  grows 
rather  slowly.  It  is  best  to  bud  or  graft  low  upon  these 
stocks.  Unless  the  tops  are  freely  and  persistently  headed 
in,  however,  dwarf  plum  trees  are  not  secured.  The  only 
exception  to  this  statement  seems  to  be  in  the  use  of  the 
native  dwarf  cherry  stocks  (Prunns  pumila  and  P.  Bes- 
seyi),  which  have  been  used  in  an  experimental  way  with 
much  promise. 

The  native  or  American  plums  are  budded  upon  native 
seedlings,  or  rarely  upon  Primus  domestic*  seedlings ;  or 
they  are  grown  from  cuttings,  as  in  the  case  of  Marianna. 

The  Japanese  plums  are  worked  upon  peach,  common 
plum,  natives,  or  Marianna.  Peach  and  Marianna  are 
mostly  used,  but  as  the  Japanese  plums  begin  to  bear 
freely  their  own  seedlings  will  no  doubt  be  used  for  stocks, 


PLUM,    COCO POLiANTHES.  303 

Plum,  concluded. 

and  this  may  be  expected  to  be  an  advantage.     Peach  is 
probably  preferable  to  Marianna. 

Prunus  Simonii  works  upon  peach,  common  plum, 
Myrobalan  and  Marianna,  chiefly  upon  the  first. 

The  ornamental    plums  are  worked    upon    the  same 
stocks  as  the  fruit-bearing  sorts.     See  Prunus. 
.  Plums  (like  cherries)  can  be  top-grafted  the  same  as 
apples,  but  the  cions  must  be  kept  completely  dormant. 
It  is  preferable  to  graft  very  early  in  the  spring. 

Plum,  Coco.    See  Chrysobalanus. 

Plumbago  (Lead wort).     Plumbaginacece '. 

Seeds,  division  and  cuttings.  Cuttings  are  made  from 
firm,  nearly  mature  wood,  and  should  be  given  mild  bot- 
tom heat. 

Podocarpus.     Conifer &. 

Usually  grown  from  cuttings  of  firm  wood  under  cover. 

Podophyllum  (May  Apple,  Mandrake;  erroneously  Duck's 

Foot).     Berberidacece. 
Seeds  (stratified  or  sown  as  soon  as  ripe)  and  division. 

Poinciana.    Leguminosce. 
Propagation  by  seeds. 
Poinsettia.    Euphorbiacea -. 

Cuttings  of  growing  shoots,  of  two  or  three  buds  each, 
handled  upon  a  cutting-bench  or  in  a  frame  Many  prop- 
agators prefer  to  let  the  cuttings  lie  exposed  two  or  three 
days  before  setting  them.  Cuttings  of  ripened  wood  can 
be  used  to  good  advantage  where  the  heat  is  rather  low. 
See  Euphorbia. 

Polemo.nium.    Polemoniacece . 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Polianthes  (Tuberose).     Amaryllidacea? \ 

Increased  by  bulbels.  Remove  these  from  the  parent 
bulb  in  the  fall,  and  keep  in  a  warm,  dry  place  until  the 
following  spring.  The  soil  should  be  light,  rich  and 
moist  throughout  the  summer.  Before  frost  comes  in  the 
fall,  take  the  bulbs  up,  and  when  dry,  cut  off  the  leaves. 
The  bulbs  should  be  kept  as  during  the  preceding  winter, 
and  the  culture  during  the  following  year  is  the  same  as 
during  the  first.  The  bulbs  usually  flower  the  second  or 
third  summer. 


3°4  THE   NURSERY  LIST 

Polyanthus.    See  Primula. 
Polygala  (Milkwort).     Polygalacea. 

Seeds ;  sometimes  by  division,  and  by  cuttings  of  young 
shoots  under  cover,  particularly  for  tropical  species. 

Polygonatum  (Solomon's  Seal).     Liliacecs. 
Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Polygonum  (Knot-Grass  or  Knot-Weed).     Polygonacece. 

Seeds.  The  perennials  are  also  easily  increased  by 
division  of  the  rootstocks,  and  by  cuttings.  See  Sac- 
aline. 

Polypodium  (Polypody).     Filices. 
Division  usually.     See  Ferns. 
Pomegranate  (Punica  Granatum}.     Lythracecs. 

Largely  by  seeds,  and  all  varieties  are  increased  by  cut- 
tings, suckers,  layers,  and  scarce  sorts  by  grafting  on  a 
common  sort. 

Pomelo,  Shaddock  (Citrus  Decumana}.     Rutacecz. 

Usually  grown  from  seeds,  but  it  may  be  budded  upon 
pomelo  or  orange  stocks,  as  in  the  Orange,  which  see. 

Pontederia  (Pickerel  Weed).     Pontederiacece. 

Seeds  rarely.  Mostly  by  division.  See,  also,  Eich- 
hornia. 

Poppy.     See  Papaver. 

Populus  (Poplar,  Aspen,  Cottonwood).     Salicacece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  and  raked  in,  in  light  soil. 
Suckers  are  also  used.  Most  often  increased  by  cuttings 
of  ripe  wood,  taken  in  fall  and  spring.  The  weeping 
forms  are  stock-grafted  upon  upright  sorts,  chiefly  upon 
P.  grandidentata. 

Portugal  Laurel.    See  Prunus. 

Portulaca  (Purslane,  Rose  Moss).     Portulacacete. 

The  annuals  are  raised  from  seed,  Varieties  are  some- 
times propagated  by  cuttings. 

Potato  (Solatium  tuberosum}.     Solanacetz. 

Tubers,  either  whole  or  variously  divided.  Also  rarely 
by  stem  cuttings.  See  page  60. 


POTENTILLA — PRUNUS.  305 

Potentilla,   including    Horkelia    (Cinquefoil,    Five-Finger ), 

Rosacece. 

Seeds,  layers,  division,  green  cuttings. 
Poterium,  including  Sanguisorba  (Burnet).     Rosaces. 

The  herbaceous  kinds  are  increased  by  seeds  and  divi- 
sion. The  shrubs  are  raised  from  soft  cuttings,  under 
glass.  See  Burnet. 

Prickly  Ash.     See  Zanthoxylum. 

Prickly  Pear.     See  Opuntia. 

Pride  of  India.     See  Melia. 

Prim.     See  Ligustrum. 

Primula,  Polyanthus  (Primrose,  Cowslip).     Primulacece. 

Seeds,  sown  carefully  in  very  fine  soil,  under  glass. 
The  seeds  should  be  fresh  ;  old  ones  often  lie  dormant  a 
year.  Many  sorts  are  increased  by  division.  See 
Auricula. 

Prinos.    See  Ilex. 

Pritchardia.     Palmacea. 
Increased  by  seeds. 

Privet.     See  Ligustrum. 

Prune.    See  Plum. 

Prunus,  Amygdalus.     Rosacece. 

The  dwarf  almonds  (Amygdalus}  are  increased  by 
seeds,  division,  cuttings,  and  by  budding  upon  seedling 
plum  or  peach  stocks ;  also  by  root  cuttings.  Peach 
stocks  give  larger  trees  at  first  than  plum  stocks,  but  the 
trees  are  not  so  long-lived.  Perhaps  ten  years  may  be 
considered  the  average  life  of  most  ornamental  almonds 
upon  the  peach,  while  upon  the  plum  they  may  persist 
twenty-five  years  or  more.  (See  Almond. )  The  ornamen- 
tal cherries,  peaches,  etc.,  are  propagated  in  essentially  the 
same  manner  as  the  fruit-bearing  varieties.  P.  Lauro- 
Cerasus  and  P.  Lusitanica,  the  cherry  laurel  and  Portugal 
laurel,  may  be  propagated  by  short  cuttings  of  ripened 
wood,  in  a  cool  greenhouse  in  autumn.  P.  Pissardii  prop- 
agates by  cuttings  of  the  soft  wood  and,  with  more  diffi- 
culty, from  cuttings  of  dormant  wood.  Soft  cuttings  suc- 
ceed well  with  many  of  the  double-flowering  plums  and 
cherries,  if  the  wood  is  grown  under  glass.  See  Apricot, 
Cherry,  Peach,  Plum. 


306  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Pseudotsuga.     Conifer ce. 

Propagated  the  same  as  Abies,  which  see. 
Psidium.     See  Guava. 
Psoralea      Leguminos<z. 

Seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings  of  growing  shoots,  placed 
under  glass.  The  tubiferous  species,  as  the  "  pomme 
blanche ' '  or  Indian  potato  (P.  esculentd)  are  increased  by 
tubers  or  divisions  of  them. 

Ptelea  (Hop-tree).     Rutacetz. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  autumn  or  stratified,  or  by 
layers.  The  varieties  may  be  grafted  on  the  common 
forms. 

Pteris  (Brake,  Bracken).     Filices. 

Easily  grown  from  spores.     See  Ferns. 
Pterocarya.    Juglandacete. 

Increased  by  seeds,  suckers  and  layers. 

Ptychosperma,  Seaforthia    (Australia   Feather-palm).      Pal* 
macecz. 

Seeds  in  heat. 

Pulmonaria    See  Mertensia. 
Pumpkin  (  Cucurbita,  three  species).     Cucurbitacece. 

Seeds,  when  the  weather  is  settled. 
Punica.    See  Pomegranate. 
Puschkinia,  Adamsia.     Liliacece. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  bulbs,  which  should  be  done 
every  two  or  three  years. 

Pyrethrum.     See  Chrysanthemum. 

Pyrola  (Shin-leaf,  Wintergreen).     Ericacefz. 

Propagated  by  division  ;  very  rarely  from  seeds. 

Pyrus.     Rosacece. 

The  ornamental  species  and  varieties  of  apples  and 
crabs  are  budded  or  grafted  upon  common  apple  stocks. 
The  mountain  ashes  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds, 
which  usually  lie  dormant  until  the  second  year,  or  the 
varieties  are  budded  or  grafted  upon  stocks  of  the  com- 
mon species  (P.  Aucuparia}.  Layers  and  green  cuttings 
are  occasionally  employed  for  various  species  and  varie- 


QUAMOCLIT — QUINCE.  307 

ties  of  pyrus.  See  also  Apple,  Pear,  Quince.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  obtain  stocks  as  nearly  related  to  the  plant  which 
is  to  be  propagated  as  possible;  e.  g.,  Parkman's  pyrus 
does  better  on  P.  floribunda  than  on  the  common  apple 
stock.  The  wild  crabs  can  be  worked  upon  the  apple 
when  stocks  of  their  own  species  cannot  be  had. 

Quamoclit.    See  Ipomcea. 

Quassia.     Simarubacece. 

Cuttings  of  ripe  shoots  under  glass. 

Quercus  (Oak).     Cupuliferce. 

Stocks  are  grown  readily  from  seeds,  which  may  be 
sown  in  the  fall  without  stratification.  Take  care  that 
vermin  do  not  dig  up  the  acorns.  The  evergreen  species 
are  sometimes  grown  from  cuttings.  Varieties  are  grafted 
on  stocks  grown  from  wild  acorns.  The  stocks  are  potted 
in  the  fall,  and  the  grafting  (generally  the  veneer-graft) 
is  performed  in  January  and  February,  or  sometimes  in 
August. 

Quince  (Pyrus  Cydonia,  P.   Cathay  ensis,  P.  Japonica,  etc.). 

Rosacece. 

All  quinces  can  be  grown  from  seeds,  the  same  as  ap- 
ples and  pears  ;  but  seeds  are  not  common  in  the  market, 
and  are,  therefore,  little  used.  The  fruit-bearing  quinces 
are  propagated  most  cheaply  by  means  of  cuttings  of  ma- 
ture wood  or  by  mound-layering.  Cuttings  are  taken  in 
the  fall,  and  are  stored  in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust  until 
spring,  when  they  are  planted  outdoors.  Long  cuttings — 
10  to  12  inches — are  usually  most  successful,  as  they  reach 
into  uniformly  moist  earth.  Cuttings  are  usually  made  of 
the  recent  wood,  and  preferably  with  a  heel,  but  wood 
two  or  three  years  old  will  usually  grow.  With  some  va- 
rieties and  upon  some  soils,  there  is  considerable  uncer- 
tainty, and  layerage  is  therefore  often  employed.  Mound- 
layering  (see  page  39)  is  practiced  where  extra  strong 
plants  are  required.  Long  root-cuttings,  treated  like 
those  of  the  blackberry  and  raspberry,  will  also  grow. 
Many  nurserymen  bud-  or  root-graft  the  better  varieties 
upon  stocks  of  Angers  or  other  strong  sorts.  These 
stocks  are  imported  from  Europe  (and  are  the  same  as 
those  used  for  dwarf  pears).  These  imported  plants  are 
grown  both  from  cuttings  and  mound-layers,  the  greater 
part  of  them  from  the  latter,  but  seeds  are  occasionally 
employed.  These  stocks  are  two  years  old  when  im- 
ported, having  been  transplanted  the  first  year  from  the 


308  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

cutting-bed  or  the  stool-yard.  In  order  to  secure  extra 
strong  plants  and  a  uniform  stand,  some  growers  graft 
quince  cuttings  upon  pieces  of  apple  or  pear  roots.  In 
such  cases  the  plants  should  be  taken  up  in  the  fall,  when 
the  quince  will  be  found  to  have  sent  out  roots  of  its 
own ;  the  apple  sprouts  (or  even  the  entire  root)  should  be 
removed,  and  the  quince  replanted  the  following  spring  in 
the  nursery  row,  otherwise  suckers  frequently  spring  from 
the  stock  and  interfere  with  the  growth  of  the  quince.  The 
union  is  sufficient  to  nurse  the  cion  for  two  or  three  years. 
The  flowering  or  Japanese  quince  is  best  propagated 
by  short  root-cuttings,  which  are  usually  made  in  the  fall, 
and  scattered  in  drills  in  frames  or  in  a  well-prepared  bor- 
der in  spring.  Cuttings  of  firm,  nearly  mature  wood, 
handled  in  frames,  will  grow,  but  they  are  not  often  used. 
The  double  varieties  are  root-grafted  upon  common  stocks 
of  P.  Japonica  in  winter.  The  plants  are  then  grown  on 
in  pots.  Common  quince  (P.  Cydonia)  stocks  are  occa- 
sionally used,  but  they  are  not  in  favor.  The  Chinese 
quince  (Pyrus  Cathayensis]  is  worked  upon  the  common 
quince. 

Radish  (Raphanus  sativus}.     Crucifer(z. 

Seeds,  usually  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow 
Ragged  Robin.    See  Lychnis. 
Ramondia,  Myconia.     Gesneracece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  division. 
Rampion  {Campanula  Rapunculus}.     Campanulacece. 

Seeds,  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 
Ranunculus  (Buttercup,  Crowfoot).     Ranunculacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Raphia.    Palmacece. 

Seeds. 

Raspberry  (Rubus  strigosus,  R.  occidenlalis,  etc.).  Rosace <z. 
New  varieties  are  obtained  from  seeds,  which  are 
washed  from  the  pulp  and  sown  immediately,  or  strati- 
fied. The  black-cap  varieties  are  grown  mostly  from 
root-tips,  as  described  on  page  36.  If  the  ground  is  loose 
and  mellow,  the  tips  will  commonly  take  root  themselves, 
but  upon  hard  ground  the  tip  may  have  to  be  held  in  place 
by  a  stone  or  clod.  Some  strong-growing  varieties,  like 
the  Gregg,  especially  in  windy  localities,  have  to  be  held 


RED-BUD RETINOSPORA.  309 

down.  The  red  varieties  increase  rapidly  by  means  of 
suckers  which  spring  up  from  the  roots.  Better  plants 
are  obtained  by  means  of  root  cuttings,  however,  as  de- 
scribed under  Blackberry  (see  also  Fig.  62).  Black-caps 
may  be  increased  by  root  cuttings.  These  cuttings  are 
best  handled  in  warm  coldframes  or  mild  hotbeds,  being 
planted  very  early  in  spring.  By  the  time  the  weather  is 
settled,  they  will  be  large  enough  to  plant  in  nursery 
rows. 

Red-bud.     See  Cercis. 

Red  Cedar.     See  Juniperus. 

Reinwardtia,  Linum  in  part,  of  gardeners.     Linacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings  of  strong  shoots  in  heat. 
Renanthera.     See  TErides. 

Reseda  (Mignonette).     Resedacece. 

Seeds.  For  winter  flowering,  seeds  are  sown  in  July. 
Also  grown  from  cuttings. 

Resurrection  Plant.    See  Anastatica. 

Retinospora,  species  of    Chamcecyparis    (Japanese   Arbor- 

Vitae).     Conifers. 

Grown  sometimes  from  seeds,  which  should  be  denuded 
of  pulp.  Layers  of  tender  branches  are  sometimes  em- 
ployed. Most  commonly  grown  from  cuttings.  These 
are  made  from  tips  of  growing  or  ripened  shoots,  and  are 
2  or  3  inches  long,  with  all  the  leaves  left  on.  They  are 
usually,  from  necessity,  variously  branched.  The  soft 
cuttings  are  usually  taken  from  forced  plants,  and  are 
handled  in  a  close  frame  or  under  a  bell-glass,  with 
bottom  heat.  In  commercial  establishments  the  cuttings 
of  ripe  wood  are  preferred.  The  following  is  the  practice 
of  one  of  the  largest  nurseries  in  the  country  :  Cuttings 
of  the  entire  season's  growth,  cut  to  a  heel,  are  taken  in 
October  and  November,  and  are  placed  in  sand  in  boxes 
in  gentle  heat,  as  in  a  propagating-house.  By  February 
the  roots  will  be  formed,  and  the  boxes  are  then  placed 
in  a  cool  house  where  the  temperature  is  about  50°.  Early 
in  spring  (about  April  ist)  the  boxes  are  placed  outdoors 
in  coldframes,  where  they  remain  until  May,  until  frost  is 
over.  The  boxes  are  then  removed  from  the  frames  and 
are  set  on  boards  in  a  shady  place,  where  they  are  left 
until  fall.  In  the  fall — having  been  nearly  a  year  in  the 
boxes — the  plants  are  shaken  out  and  are  heeled-in  in  a 


310  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

cellar.  The  next  spring  they  are  planted  out  in  beds, 
and  during  the  following  summer  and  winter  they  are 
given  some  protection  from  sun  and  cold.  Yews  and 
arbor-vitaes  are  handled  in  the  same  way. 

Retinosporas  are  often  grafted  upon  retinospora  or  com- 
mon arbor-vitae  stocks.  This  operation  is  usually  per- 
formed upon  potted  plants  in  winter  by  the  veneer  method. 

Rhamnus,  including  Frangula  (Buckthorn).     Rhamnacece. 

The  hardy  kinds  may  be  increased  by  means  of  seeds 
or  by  layers.  The  stove  and  greenhouse  species  may  be 
multiplied  by  cuttings  of  growing  parts.  Seeds  should 
be  stratified. 

Rheum  (Rhubarb,  Pie-plant,  Wine-plant).     Polygonacece. 

.  Increased  by  seeds  and  by  division.  Each  division 
should  contain  at  least  one  bud  on  the  crown.  Seeds 
may  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  but  will  not 
reproduce  the  varieties,  and  three  years  are  required  for 
the  plants  to  mature. 

Rhipsalis,  including  Lepismium,  Pfeiffera.     Cactacece. 

Cuttings,  after  having  been  dried  for  a  few  days,  should 
be  inserted  in  coarse  gravel  or  sand.  See  Cactus. 

Rhodanthe.     See  Helipterum. 

Rhododendron,  Azalea  (Rose-Bay).     Ericacecs. 

Seeds  are  largely  employed,  but  they  are  small  and 
light,  and  must  be  carefully  handed.  They  are  sown  in 
spring  in  pans  or  boxes  in  a  soil  01  sandy  peat,  care  being 
taken  to  cover  them  very  lightly  and  not  to  dislodge  them 
when  applying  water.  They  are  handled  in  coldframes 
or  in  a  cool  house,  and  the  young  plants  must  be  shaded. 
The  plants  are  commonly  allowed  to  remain  a  year  in  the 
boxes.  Low-growing  plants  are  often  layered.  Cuttings 
of  growing  wood,  cut  to  a  heel,  are  sometimes  employed, 
being  made  in  summer  and  handled  in  a  frame,  but  the 
percentage  of  rooted  plants  will  often  be  small.  Rhodo- 
dendrons are  extensively  grafted,  the  veneer  method  be- 
ing most  used.  The  operation  is  performed  upon  potted 
plants  in  late  summer  or  early  fall,  or  sometimes  in  a  cool 
house  in  early  spring.  Most  of  the  leaves  are  allowed  to 
remain  upon  the  cion.  The  plants  are  then  placed  in 
densely  shaded  cool  frames  (Fig.  47),  and  are  nearly  cov- 
ered with  sphagnum.  Various  stocks  are  employed,  but 
for  severe  climates  the  hardy  species,  like  R.  Catazvbiense 


RHODOTYPOS ROMNEYA.  311 

and  R.  maximum,  are  probably  best.  R.  Ponticum  is  ex- 
tensively used  in  Europe,  but  it  is  not  hardy  enough  for  the 
north,  unless  worked  low  and  planted  deep.  See  Azalea. 

Rhodotypos.     Seeds  ;  or  like  Kerria. 

Rhubarb.    See  Rheum. 

Rhus  (Sumach).     Anacardiacece . 

Seeds,  layers,  suckers,  root  cuttings,  and  cuttings  of 
green  or  ripe  wood.  Suckers  are  oftenest  used. 

Rhynchospermum.     See  Trachelospermum. 

Ribes  (Currant,  Gooseberry).     Saxifragacecz. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  else 
stratified  for  new  varieties.  Commonly  from  ripe  cut- 
tings. See  Currant  and  Gooseberry. 

Richardia  (Calla).     Aroidetz. 

Offsets,  which  should  be  removed  and  potted  off  when 
th'e  plants  are.  at  rest.  Old  crowns  may  be  divided. 

Ricinus  (Castor  Bean).     Euphorbiacece . 

Seeds,  which  in  the  north  are  started  indoors. 

Rivina  (Hoop  Withy).     Phytolaccacece. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings,  inserted 
during  spring  in  heat. 

Robinia  (Locust,  Rose  Acacia).     Lcguminoscz. 

Seeds,  sown  in  fall  or  spring,  and  which  usually  germi- 
nate better  if  soaked  in  hot  water  previous  to  sowing. 
Also  grown  from  layers  and  root  cuttings.  Named  varie- 
ties are  grafted  or  budded,  the  common  locust  stock 
(JR.  Pseudacacia]  being  preferred,  even  for  the  rose  acacia 
(R.  hispida). 

Rocambole  (Allium  Scorodoprasum}.     Liliacese. 

"Cloves,"  or  division  of  the  bulb. 
Rocket,  ornamental  sorts.     See  Hesperis. 
Rocket  Salad  (Eruca  sativa}.     Cruciferce. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow. 
Rock-Rose.     See  Cistus. 
Romneya.     Papaveracece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring. 


312  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Rosa  (Rose).     Rosacecc. 

New  varieties,  and  sometimes  stocks,  are  grown  from 
seeds,  which  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  kept  in  the  hips 
until  spring.  The  hardy  kinds  are  usually  sown  in  well 
prepared  beds  outdoors.  Roses  are  sometimes  grown 
from  layers,  and  often  from  root  cuttings,  after  the  manner 
of  blackberries.  The  common  way  of  propagating  roses, 
however,  is  by  means  of  short  cuttings  of  firm  or  nearly 
mature  wood,  handled  under  glass,  with  a  mild  bottom 
heat  (65°  or  70°).  They  are  commonly  made  in  February 
or  March  from  forced  plants.  The  cuttings  are  made  in 
various  fashions,  some  persons  allowing  most  of  the  leaves 
to  remain,  and  some  preferring  to  cut  most  of  them  off,  as 
in  Fig.  74.  They  are  commonly  cut  to  one-bud  lengths, 
like  Fig.  76.  Long  cuttings  of  ripeued  wood,  handled  in  a 
cool  greenhouse  or  in  frames,  may  also  be  employed  for 
the  various  perpetual  and  climbing  roses.  Most  growers 
feel  that  the  best  plants  are  obtained  from  cuttings,  but 
most  varieties  do  well  when  budded  upon  congenial  and 
strong  stocks.  Budding  by  the  common  shield  method  is 
considerably  employed,  and  veneer-grafting  is  sometimes 
used.  The  stocks  are  grown  either  from  seeds  or  cut- 
tings. A  common  stock  is  the  manetti,  which  is  a  strong 
and  hardy  type.  The  eyes  should  be  cut  out  of  the  ma- 
netti stock  below  the  bud,  to  avoid  sprouting.  Because 
the  manetti  suckers  badly,  various  wild  briars  are  much 
used  in  Europe.  The  bud  is  often  inserted  2  to  4  feet 
high,  making  "standard"  roses.  These  are  practically 
unknown  in  this  country,  except  as  sparingly  imported. 
The  multiflora  rose  is  also  a  good  stock,  especially  for 
early  results.  These  manetti  and  multiflora  stocks  (and 
some  others)  are  imported  from  Europe  as  yearling  cut- 
tings. For  outdoor  propagating,  they  are  "dressed" 
much  like  apple  stocks  (Fig.  86),  and  are  budded  the  year 
in  which  they  are  planted  in  the  nursery  row.  The  gar- 
dener may  grow  his  own  stocks  of  these  (particularly  of 
multiflora)  from  hard-wood  cuttings  made  in  spring,  and 
these  cuttings  should  be  fit  for  working  in  the  following 
fall  and  winter.  Home-grown  seedlings  should  be  two 
years  old  (unless  very  strong)  before  they  are  budded. 
Hybrid  perpetual  roses  make  excellent  pot  plants  in  a 
short  time  when  winter  grafted,  with  dormant  wood,  upon 
multiflora  stocks.  A  stock  somewhat  used  about  Boston 
for  some  of  the  hybrid  perpetuals,  with  excellent  results, 
is  Rosa  Watsoniana,  a  Japanese  species.  This  is  a  slen- 
der stock,  and  is  grafted,  not  budded.  "Worked"  roses 


ROSEMARY SACALINE.  313 

Rosa,  concluded. 

are  in  greater  favor  in  Europe  than  in  this  country,  and 
our  various  native  roses  have,  therefore,  received  little 
attention  as  stocks.  The  common  sweet  briar  of  the  road- 
sides ( which  is  an  introduced  species)  is  sometimes  used 
for  stocks.  R.  Wichuriana  is  easily  propagated  by  long 
cuttings  of  year-old  wood  in  the  open  air. 

Rosemary  (Rosmarinus  officinalis] .     Labiates. 
Seeds  and  division. 

Rubber-plant.     See  Ficus  (F.  elastica). 

Rubus  ( Bramble ) .     Rosacecz. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  stiatified  or  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe.  Root  cuttings  and  suckers  are  mostly  employed. 
The  seeds  of  R.  deliciosus  require  two  years  for  germina- 
tion. See  Blackberry,  Dewberry,  Raspberry,  Wineberry. 

Rudbeckia,  including  Lepachys,  Obeliscaria  (Cone  Flower). 

Composite?. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  division. 

Rue.    See  Ruta. 

Ruscus  (Butcher's  Broom,  Alexandrian  Laurel).     Liliacece. 
Root  suckers.     Also  seeds,  when  obtainable. 

Rush.     See  Juncus. 

Russelia.     Scrophulariacecz : 

Seeds.  Green  cuttings  under  glass  is  the  common 
method. 

Ruta  (Herb  of  Grace,  Rue).     Rutacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  and  cuttings.  Meadow 
Rue,  see  Thalictrum. 

Sabal  (Palmetto).     Palmacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  suckers,  which  should  be 
taken  when  about  one  foot  long.  If  they  have  no  roots 
they  must  be  carefully  handled. 

Sabbatia  (American  Centaury).      Gentianacece. 

May  be  raised  from  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  thinly 
in  pans,  or  in  a  shady  border.     Division  of  old  plants. 
Sacaline,  or    Saghalin   (Polygonmn    Sachalinense}.       Poly- 

gonacecz. 

Division  of  the  roots  (/.  e.,  root  cuttings)  into  small 
pieces. 


314  THE    NURSERY    LIST*. 

Saffron  (Carthamu*  tinctorius}.     Composite. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  in  open  air  in  spring.  Saffron  if 
also  Crocus  sativus.  See  Crocus. 

Sage  (Salvia  officinalis).     Labiate. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 
Also  by  division,  but  seeds  give  better  plants.  Sage  plan- 
tations should  be  renewed  every  two  or  three  years. 
Good  plants  may  be  grown  from  cuttings.  See  Salvia. 

Sage  Palm.     See  Cycas. 
Saintfoin.     See  Onobrychis. 
Saint  John's  Bread.     See  Carob. 

Saintpaulia.     Gesneracecc. 

Grown  easily  from  seeds,  sown  on  the  surface.  Also 
from  leaf  cuttings.  Handled  like  Sinningia,  except  that  it 
is  not  tuber-bearing. 

Salisburia.     See  Ginkgo. 

Salix  (Willow,  Osier,  Sallow).     Salicacecc. 

All  the  willows  grow  readily  from  cuttings  of  ripe  wood 
of  almost  any  age.  The  low  and  weeping  varieties  are 
top-worked  upon  any  common  upright  stocks.  Kilmar- 
nock  (weeping  form  of  Salix  Caprea\  Rosmarinifolia 
(S.  incana\,  and  other  named  varieties  are  worked  upon 
cutting-grown  stocks  of  S.  Caprea. 

Salpiglossis.    Scropkulariacea. 

Propagated  by  seeds«in  open  air,  or  they  may  be  started 
under  glass. 

Salsify  (  Tragopogon  porrifolius).     Composite. 

Seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  remain. 

Salvia,  including  Sclarea  (Sage).     Labiate. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  sown  thinly  and  placed  in  a 
little  warmth.  Also  by  cuttings  ;  these  will  root  readily  in 
heat,  if  they  are  rather  soft  and  in  a  growing  state.  See 
Sage. 

Sambucus  (Elder).      Caprifoliacecc. 

Seeds,  handled  like  those  of  raspberries  and  black- 
berries. Named  kinds  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  mature 
wood,  and  by  layers. 


SANDORICUM SAVOY.  315 

Sanrtoricum  (Sandal-tree).     Meliacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  sand  under  glass,  in  heat. 

Sanguinaria  (Blood-root,  Red  Puccoon).     Papaveracea. 

Propagated  by  means  of  seeds,  or  (more  commonly) 
by  division  of  the  rootstocks. 

Sanguisorba.     See  Poterium. 

Sansevieria,  Salmia  (Bowstring  Hemp).     Hczmodoracete. 

Young  plants  are  obtained  from  suckers. 
Sapodilla,  or  Sapodilla  Plum.    See  Sapota. 

Saponaria,  including  Vaccaria  (Bouncing  Bet,  Fullers'  Herb, 
Soap  wort).     Caryophyllacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  division.  The  hardy  annual 
and  biennial  kinds  may  be  simply  sown  in  the  open 
border. 

Sapota,  Achras.     Sapotacecz. 

Seeds  and  cuttings.  In  tropical  countries  the  sapodilla 
(S.  Achras}  is  raised  entirely  from  seeds. 

Sarracenia  (Indian  Cup,  Pitcher  Plant,  Side-saddle  Flower, 
Trumpet  Leaf).     Sar rac enlace ce . 

Increased  by  dividing  the  crowns.  Sometimes  by 
seeds,  sown  in  moss  in  a  cool  frame. 

Sassafras.     Lauracece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  suckers  and  root  cuttings. 

Satyrium.     Orchidacefs. 

Division  of  the  plants,  as  new  growth  is  commencing. 
See  also  under  Orchids. 

Sauromatum.     Aroidece. 
Increased  by  offsets. 
Savin.     See  Juniperus. 
Savory  (Satureia  horlensis,  S.  montana}.     Labiates. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain  ;  or  the 
winter  savory  (S.  montana),  which  is  a  perennial ;  also  by 
division. 

Savoy.     See  Cabbage. 


316  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Saxifraga  (Saxifrage,  Rockfoil).     Saxifragacecz. 

Seeds,  divisions,  and  in  some  species  (as  S.  sarmentosa, 
the  "strawberry  geranium  ")  by  runners. 

Scabiosa  (Mourning  Bride,  Pin-cushion  Flower).     Dipsacece. 
Seeds,  usually  sown  in  the  open,  and  sometimes  by 
division. 

Scaevola.     Goodenovietz. 

Seeds.  Cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  a  compost  of 
peat  and  sand,  under  glass. 

Schinus  (Pepper-tree,  of  California).     Anacardiacecz . 

Propagated  by  seeds.     Cuttings,  in  greenhouses. 
Schismatoglottis.    Aroidece. 

Increased  by  division. 

Schizandra.    Magnoliacece. 

Seeds,  when  procurable.  Propagation  is  effected  by 
layers  ;  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  should  be  inserted  in 
sand  under  glass. 

Schizanthus  (Butterfly,  or  Fringe  Flower).     Solanacetz : 

The  half-hardy  kinds  are  increased  by  seeds  sown  in  a 
little  heat  in  spring.  The  seed  of  the  hardy  sorts  may  be 
sown  in  the  open  ground  in  early  spring. 

Schizostylis.     Iridacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 

Sciadophyllum.    Araliacea. 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  sand  under  glass,  in  moderate  heat. 

Sciadopitys  (Umbrella  Pine).     Coniferce. 

Slowly  propagated  by  imported  seeds.  But  cuttings  of 
the  half-ripened  shoots,  taken  off  in  summer  and  inserted 
in  sand,  in  heat,  root  readily. 

Scilla  (Squill,  Wild  Hyacinth).     Liliace&. 

Slowly  increased  by  seeds,  but  usually  by  bulbels. 
Scirpus  Tubernsemontanus  of  florists,  is  Juncus,  which  see. 
Scolopendrium.    See  Ferns. 
Scorzonera  (Black  Salsify).     Composite. 

Seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 


SCOTCH    BROOM — SERVICE-BERRY.  317 

Scotch  Broom.    See  Cytisus. 

Screw  Pine.     See  Pandanus. 

Seaforthia.    See  Ptychosperma. 

Sea-kale  (Crambe  maritima).     Crucifera. 

Seeds,  sown  without  being  shelled,  usually  in  a  seed- 
bed. When  the  young  plants  have  made  three  or  four 
leaves,  they  should  be  removed  to  permanent  quarters. 
Seedlings  should  furnish  crops  in  three  years.  By  root- 
cuttings,  four  or  five  inches  long,  taken  from  well  estab- 
lished plants.  These  should  give  plants  strong  enough 
for  cutting  in  two  years. 

Seaside  Grape.    See  Coccoloba. 
Sechium  (Choko).     Cucurbitacece . 

Seeds.     Root-tubers. 
Sedge.    See  Carex. 
Sedum  (Orpine,  Stonecrop).     Crassulacecz. 

Propagation  may  be  effected  by  seeds,  by  division  of 
the  tufts,  by  cuttings  of  stems  or  leaves  in  spring. 

Selaginella.     Lycopodiacete. 

Spores,  as  for  Ferns  (which  see).  Short  cuttings,  in- 
serted in  early  spring,  in  pots  or  pans. 

Sempervivum  (House  Leek).     Crassulacece . 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  or  by  the  young  plants 
which  appear  around  the  old  one  at  the  base. 

Senecio,  including  Cacalia,  Farfugium,  Jacobaea,  Ligularia 

(Grounsel,  Ragweed).     Composite : 
The  annuals  are  propagated  by  seeds.     Others  may  be 
increased  by  seeds,  by  division,  or  by  cuttings  of  both  the 
roots  and  shoots.      German    Ivy   (Senecio  scandens}   is 
easily  multiplied  by  cuttings  of  the  running  shoots. 

Sensitive  Plant.    See  Mimosa. 

Sequoia,  Wellingtonia  (Redwood).     Conifercz. 

Seeds,  which  must  be  handled  in  a  frame  or  half-shady 

place.     Layers,  and  cuttings  handled  like  those  of  retino- 

spora  and  yew. 

Sericographis.    See  Justicia. 
Service-berry.    See  Amelanchier. 


3l8  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Sesamum  (Bene).      Pedalinetz. 

Seeds,  sown  under  glass,  or  in  the  south  in  the  open 
border. 

Sesbania  (Pea-tree).     Leguminosa. 

Seeds  for  annual  species  ;  the  shrubby  kinds  by  cuttings 
of  the  half-ripened  shoots  under  glass,  in  heat. 

Shad-bush.    See  Amelanchier. 

Shaddock.    See  Pomelo. 

Shallot  (Allium  Ascalonicum}.     Liliacea. 

Grown  from  "cloves,"  which  are  formed  by  the  break- 
ing up  of  the  main  bulb. 

Shell-bark  Hickory  (Shag-bark).     See  Hicoria. 
Shepherdia  (Buffalo  Berry).     El&agnacecs. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  the  fall  or  stratified  until 
spring. 

Sibbaldia.    See  Potentilla. 

Siberian  Pea-tree.     See  Caragana. 

Side-saddle  Flower.     See  Sarracenia. 

Silene  (Campion,  Catchfly).     Caryophyllacete. 
By  seeds,  division,  and  cuttings. 

Silk-cotton  Tree.    See  Bombax. 

Silphium  (Rosin-plant,  Compass-plant).     Composite. 
Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 

Silver  Bell.    See  Halesia. 

Sinningia  (Gloxinia..)     Gesnerace<z. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  the  latter  part  of  winter,  in  well- 
drained  pots  or  small  pans  of  finely  sifted  soil,  of  peat, 
leaf-mold  and  sand  in  about  equal  proportions.  The 
seeds  should  be  sown  thinly  and  covered  slightly,  then 
carefully  watered,  and  placed  in  a  temperature  of  about 
70°  and  kept  shaded.  Cuttings  of  the  shoots  may  be 
taken  when  the  old  tubers  are  starting  in  spring,  and 
placed  in  a  close  propagating  frame  Leaf  cuttings,  with 
a  small  portion  of  the  petiole  attached,  give  excellent 
results,  especially  when  the  leaves  are  firm  and  nearly 
matured.  Leaf  cuttings  are  made  after  the  fashion  of  Fig 
81.  A  little  tuber  forms  on  the  end  of  the  leaf-stalk,  and 


SISYRINCHIUM SOLDANELLA.  319 

this  is  removed  and  handled  like  any  small  tuber.     Also 
grafted  on  tubers  (see  page  129). 

Sisyrinchium  (Blue-eyed  Grass,  Satin  Flower).     Iridacecz. 
It  may  be  increased  in  spring  by  seeds  or  by  division. 
Skimmia.     Rutacece. 

Seeds,  in  a  frame.  Also  by  layers,  and  by  firm  cuttings 
in  gentle  heat. 

Skirret  'Slum  Sisarum).     Umbellifercz. 

Seeds,  offsets,  or  division. 
Slipperwort.    See  Campanula  and  Calceolaria. 
Smilacina  (False  Solomon's  Seal).     Liliacetz. 

Seeds.     Division  of  roots. 
Smilax  (Green-Briar,  American  China  Root).     Liliacecz. 

Young  plants  are  obtained  by  seeds,  by  layers,  and  by 
division  of  the  root. 

For  the  "Smilax"  or  Boston-vine  of  conservatories, 
see  Myrsiphyllum. 

Snapdragon.     See  Antirrhinum. 

Snowball.     See  Viburnum. 

Snowberry.    See  Symphoricarpus  and  Chiococc<a. 

Snowdrop.    See  Galanthus. 

Snowflakc.    See  Leucoium. 

Soapwort.    See  Saponaria. 

Solandra.    Solanacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  ;  by  cuttings,  inserted 
in  mold  or  tan.  If  small  flowering  plants  are  desired,  the 
cuttings  should  be  taken  from  flowering  shoots. 

Solanum  (Nightshade).     Solanacea. 

The  annuals,  and  most  of  the  other  species,  are  raised 
from  seeds.  The  tuberous  kinds  may  be-  increased  by 
tubers,  or  division  of  them.  The  stove  and  greenhouse 
shrubby  plants  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings,  inserted 
when  young  in  a  warm  frame. 

Soldanella.     Primulacece . 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  division. 


320  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Solea.    See  lonidium. 

Solidago  (Golden  Rod).     Composite?. 

Seeds,  sown  in  fall  or  spring,  and  by  division. 
Solomon's  Seal.    See  Polygonatum. 
Sonerila.     Melastomacecz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  or  by  cuttings,  which  should  be 
inserted  singly  in  small  pots  during  spring  and  placed  in 
a  frame  in  a  propagating  house. 

Sophora.    Leguminosa. 

Seeds,  layers  and  cuttings  of  either  ripened  or  growing 
wood.  The  named  varieties  are  grafted  upon  common 
stocks. 

Sorghum.    Gramineee. 

Usually  by  seeds.  Sometimes  by  cuttings,  as  in  Sugar 
Cane,  which  see. 

Sorrel  {Rumex,  several  species).     Polygonacefp. 

Seeds  and  division. 
Sorrel-tree.     See  Oxydendrum. 
Sour  Gum.     See  Nyssa. 
Spanish  Bayonet.    See  Yucca. 
Sparaxis.     Iridacece. 

Usually  by  offsets.     Seeds. 
Sparmannia.      Tiliace(Z. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  in  spring. 
Spathiphyllum,  including  Amomophyllum.     Aroidecz. 

Propagated  sometimes  by  seeds  sown  in  heat,  but 
mostly  by  division  of  the  rootstocks. 

Spearmint  (Mentha  viridis}.     Labiates. 

Commonly  grown  from  cuttings  of  the  creeping  root- 
stocks. 

Speedwell.     See  Veronica. 

Sphaeralcea  (Globe  Mallow).     Malvacetp. 

Seeds  ;  by  cuttings  of  the  young  growth  under  glass,  and 
kept  shaded  until  rooted. 

Spice-bush.    See  Lindera. 


SPIDERWORT STAPHYLEA.  321 

Spiderwort.     See  Tradescantia. 

Spinage  (Spinacia  oleracea}.     Chenopodiacece. 

Seeds,  sown  usually  where  the  crop  is  to  stand,  either 
in  fall  or  spring. 

Spiraea  (Spirea,  Meadow-Sweet).     Rosacece. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  stratified  until  spring. 
Cpmmonly  increased  by  cuttings,  either  of  mature  or 
green  wood.  Green  cuttings  usually  make  the  best  plants. 
These  are  made  in  summer  and  handled  in  frames.  Some 
sorts,  as  6*.  aricsfolia^  S.  opulifolia  and  varieties  (Nine- 
bark,  now  known  as  Neillia  or  Physocarpus  opulifolia} 
and  5.  prunifolia,  are  usually  grown  from  layers  put 
down  in  spring.  The  herbaceous  kinds  are  often  in- 
creased by  division.  Plants  forced  in  winter  give  excel- 
lent cutting -wood,  which  should  be  taken  when  the 
growth  is  completed. 

Spondias   (Hog  Plum,    Otaheite   Apple   or   Plum).       Ana- 

cardiacece. 

Seeds ;  by  large  cuttings  of  growing  wood,  which 
should  be  inserted  in  sand  or  mold,  in  heat. 

Spruce.    See  Picea  and  Abies. 

Squash  (Cuctirbita,  three  species).     Cucurbitacece '. 

Seeds,  when  the  weather  becomes  warm. 
Squill.     See  Scilla. 

Stachys,  Betonica,  Galeopsis  (Hedge  Nettle,  Woundwort). 

Labiate?. 

Seeds,  divisions,  or  cuttings.  Some  species  (as  the 
Crosnes,  Chorogi,  or  "5".  tuberifera  "  of  recent  introduc- 
tion) are  increased  by  subterranean  tubers. 

Staff-tree.     See  Celastrus. 

Stanhopea.     Orchidacea. 

Division  of  the  old  roots.     See  also  under  Orchids. 
Stapelia  (Carrion  Flower).     Asclepiadacetz. 
Seeds  ;  commonly  by  cuttings  in  heat. 
Staphylea  (Bladder-nut).     Sapindacecz. 

Seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  stratified  until  spring. 
By  suckers,  layers,  and  cuttings  of  roots  or  of  mature 
wood. 


322  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Star  Apple.     See  Chrysophyllum. 

Star  of  Bethlehem.     See  Ornithogalum. 

Statice  (Sea  Lavender,  See  Pink).     Plumbaginacea : 

The  annuals  and  biennials  may  be  increased  by  seeds 
sown  in  early  spring,  in  a  frame.  The  perennials  by  seeds, 
or  by  carefully  made  divisions.  Greenhouse  species  should 
be  propagated  by  cuttings  inserted  in  small  single  pots 
during  early  spring,  and  placed  under  glass. 

Staurostigma.    Aroidece. 

Seeds  sown  in  bottom  heat ;  or  by  division  of  the  tubers. 
Stephanotis,  Jasminanthes.     Asdepiadacea. 

Propagated  by  seeds ;  also  by  cuttings  of  the  previous 
year's  growth  inserted  singly  in  pots,  in  spring,  and  placed 
in  a  close  frame  with  a  temperature  of  60°. 

Sterculia.    Sterculiacece. 

Seeds.  Increased  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  should  be 
taken  with  the  leaves  on,  and  placed  under  glass.  Those 
of  the  stove  species  should  be  placed  in  a  moist  heat. 

Stevia.     See  Piqueria. 
Stigmaphyllon.     Malpighiacece . 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  inserted  in  sandy  soil 
under  glass,  in  heat. 

Stillingia.     Euphorbiacece. 

Easily  propagated  by  imported  seeds. 
Stock.    See  Matthiola. 
Stokesia.     Composite?. 

Propagation  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Stonecrop.    See  Sedum. 

Strawberry  (Fragaria}.     Rosacetz* 

New  sorts  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  are  usually 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe ;  or  they  may  be  kept  until  the  fol- , 
lowing  spring,  either  dry  or  in  stratification.  Varieties  are 
commonly  increased  by  offsets,  or  plants  formed  at  the 
joints  of  runners.  These  runners  appear  after  the  fruit  is 
off.  If  strong  plants  are  desired,  the  runner  should  be 
headed-in,  and  only  one  plant  allowed  to  form  on  each 
runner.  The  ground  should  be  soft  and  somewhat  moist, 
to  enable  the  young  plants  to  obtain  a  foothold.  Plants 


STRAWBERRY  GERANIUM STUARTIA.         3^3 

strong  enough  for  setting  are  obtained  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember of  the  same  year  in  which  they  start.  Ordinarily, 
the  runners  will  take  root  without  artificial  aid;  but  in 
hard  soils,  or  with  new  or  scarce  varieties,  the  joints  are 
sometimes  held  down  with  a  pebble  or  bit  of  earth.  New 
varieties  are  often  propagated  throughout  the  season  from 
plants  which  are  highly  cultivated,  and  which  are  not 
allowed  to  fruit.  Very  strong  plants  are  obtained  by 
growing  them  in  pots.  A  3-inch  pot  is  sunk  below  the 
runner,  and  the  joint  is  held  upon  it  by  a  stone  or  clod. 
The  runner  is  then  pinched  off,  to  prevent  further  growth, 
and  to  throw  all  its  energy  into  the  one  plant.  The  pot 
should  be  filled  with  soft,  rich  earth.  Shouldered  pots  are 
best,  because  they  can  be  raised  more  easily  than  others, 
by  catching  the  spade  or  trowel  under  the  shoulder.  The 
plants  will  fill  the  pots  in  three  or  four  weeks,  if  the 
weather  is  favorable.  Old  tin  fruit  cans,  which  have  been 
heated  to  remove  the  bottoms,  can  also  be  used. 

Cuttings  of  the  tips  of  runners  are  sometimes  made  and 
handled  in  a  frame,  as  an  additional  means  of  rapidly 
increasing  new  kinds.  These  cuttings  are  really  the  cast- 
away tips  left  from  the  headings-in  or  checking  of  the 
runners. 

Strawberry  Geranium.     See  Saxifraga. 
Strawberry  Tree.     See  Arbutus. 

Strelitzia  (Bird  of  Paradise  Flower,  Bird's-tongue  Flower). 

Scitaminea. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  light  soil, 
and  the  pots  plunged  in  moist  bottom  heat.  Also  in- 
creased by  suckers  and  by  division  of  the  old  plants. 

Streptocarpus  (Cape  Primrose).     Gesneracece. 
Readily  propagated  by  seeds  or  by  division. 

Strobilantb.es,  including  Goldfussia  (Cone  Head).      Acan- 

thacece. 
Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  any  light  soil  under  glass,  in  heat. 

Struthiola.     Thymel<zace<z. 

Seeds,    when    obtainable.      Cuttings    in    sand    under    a 
frame. 
Stuartia.     Ternstrcemiaceez . 

May  be  increased  by  seeds  and  layers,  or  by  means  of 
ripened  cuttings,  inserted  in  sand  under  a  hand-glass. 
Seeds  are  oftenest  used,  where  obtainable. 


324  THE   NURSERY    LIST. 

Styrax  (Storax).     Styracacece. 

Seeds,  which  must  be  stratified,  or  else  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe.  They  usually  lie  dormant  the  first  year.  Also  by 
layers  and  cuttings  of  green  wood.  Can  be  grafted  upon 
other  storaxes,  or  upon  Halesia  tetraptera. 

Sugar  Cane  (Saccharwn  officinarum} .     Graminece. 

Cuttings  of  the  stems.  The  cuttings  should  possess  a 
node  or  joint  which  bears  one  or  more  good  buds. 
These  cuttings  are  planted  directly  in  the  field,  and  the 
plants  will  reach  maturity  in  two  or  three  months.  Propa- 
gation by  seeds  has  been  supposed  to  be  impossible,  but 
recent  experiments  at  Kew  indicate  that  it  can  be  done. 

Sumach.    See  Rhus. 

Sundew.    See  Drosera. 

Sunflower.     See  Helianthus. 

Sun  Rose.     See  Helianthemum. 

Swainsona.     Leguminosce. 

Seeds.     Green  cuttings  under  cover. 

Swan  River  Daisy.    See  Brachycome. 

Sweet  Brier.    See  Rosa. 

Sweet  Cicely.    See  Myrrhis. 

Sweet  Pea.    See  Lathyrus. 

Sweet  Potato  (Ipomcea  Batatas}.     Convolvulacece. 

Sweet  potato  plants  are  grown  in  hotbeds,  coldframes 
or  forcing  houses  (depending  upon  the  latitude)  from 
sound  tubers  of  medium  size.  The  tuber  is  laid  upon  a 
sandy  or  other  loose  bed,  and  is  then  covered  with  sand 
or  sandy  loam  to  a  depth  of  i  or  2  inches.  Sometimes, 
to  guard  against  rot,  the  tubers  are  not  covered  until 
the  sprouts  begin  to  appear.  The  tubers  may  be  laid 
thickly  upon  the  bed,  but  they  are  less  apt  to  rot  if  the> 
do  not  touch  each  other.  Sometimes  the  tubers  are  cut 
in  two  lengthwise,  the  cut  surface  being  placed  down,  in 
order  to  place  all  the  plant-giving  surface  uppermost.  In 
four  or  five  weeks  the  young  plants — 3  to  5  inches  high — 
are  pulled  off  and  planted,  and  others  soon  arise  to  take 
their  places.  One  hand  should  be  held  firmly  upon  the 
soil  over  the  tuber,  while  the  sprout  is  pulled  off,  to  keep  it 
in  place.  Three  or  four  crops  of  sprouts  may  be  obtained 
from  each  tuber. 


SWEET    WILLIAM TAMARINDUS.  325 

Sweet  William  (Dianthus  barbatus}.     Caryophyllacece. 

Seeds,  sown  indoors  or  in  the  border.  Division  of  the 
plants.  Best  results  are  obtained  by  starting  new  seed- 
lings every  other  year.  See  Dianthus. 

Sycamore.    See  Platanus. 

Symphoricarpus  (Waxberry,   St.   Peter's  Wort,  Snowberry- 

tree,  Indian  Currant).     Caprifoliacece. 
Seeds,  handled  like  those  of  blackberries.      Also  by 
suckers  and  cuttings. 

Symphytum  (Comfrey).     Borraginacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds  and  by  division.  Also  eas- 
ily by  root  cuttings. 

Symplocos,  including  Hopea.     Styracacece. 
Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  sand  under  glass. 

Syringa  (Lilac).     Oleacece. 

New  varieties  and  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds,  which 
are  usually  stratified  until  spring.  Green  cuttings,  han- 
dled in  frames  in  summer,  are  largely  used.  Cuttings  of 
mature  wood  will  grow  ;  also  cuttings  of  the  roots.  Lay- 
ers and  suckers  are  often  employed.  Varieties  are  exten- 
sively grafted  or  budded  upon  privet  (Ligustrum)  and 
common  lilacs.  Flute-budding  is  occasionally  employed. 
Lilacs  will  grow  for  a  time  when  worked  upon  the  ash. 
Grafting  succeeds  well  when  performed  in  the  open  air. 

Tabernaemontana.    Apocynacece. 

Increased  by  green  cuttings,  under  glass,  in  moist  heat. 

Tacca,  Ataccia.      Taccacecz. 

Seeds,  and  division  of  the  roots. 

Tacsonia.    See  Passiflora. 

Tagetes  (Marigold).     Composites. 

Seeds,  sown  either  indoors  or  out. 
Tamarack.    See  Larix. 

Tamarindus  (Tamarind).     Leguminosce \ 

Young  plants  may  be  obtained  from  seeds  sown  in  a 
hotbed,  or  outdoors  in  tropical  countries.  Cuttings,  in 
sand  under  glass.,  in  heat. 

v 


326  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Tamarix,  Tamarisk.     Tamariscinete . 

Increased  by  ripe  cuttings  under  glass,  the  greenhouse 
kinds  in  heat. 

Tansy  (  Tanacetum  vulgare}.     Composite. 

Seeds  and  division. 
Taro.     Root  tubers.     See  Caladium. 
Tarragon  (Artemisia  Dracuncidus} .     Composites. 

A  perennial  herb,  multiplied  chiefly  by  division.  Seeds 
may  be  used,  if  fresh. 

Taxodium,  Glyptostrobus  (Bald  Cypress).     Coniferce. 

Seeds  are  usually   employed.       Layers.      Cuttings    of 

¥)ung  wood  in  wet  sand,  or  even  water,  under  cover, 
he  varieties  of  glyptostrobus  may  be  veneer-grafted  in 
August  or  September  on  T.  distichum. 

Taxus  (Yew).     Coniferce. 

Seeds,  sown  when  gathered  or  else  stratified.  Layers. 
Cuttings  of  green  wood  under  glass  in  summer,  or  of  ma- 
ture wood,  as  recommended  for  retinospora.  The  named 
varieties  are  veneer-grafted  in  August  or  early  fall  upon 
the  upright  kinds. 

Tecoma  (Trumpet-Creeper).     Bignoniacece. 

Seeds,  layers,  cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  but  most  com- 
monly by  root  cuttings. 

Terminalia  (Tropical  Almond).     Combretacetz. 

Seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  green  wood  under  glass. 
Ternstroemia.     Ternstrcemiacece . 

Seeds.  Cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  shoots  under  glass, 
in  bottom  heat. 

Testudinaria  (Elephant's  Foot).     Dioscoreacece. 

Grown  from  imported  roots  or  seeds. 
Teucrium  (Germander).     Labiates. 

Seeds,  division,  and  the  shrubby  kinds  by  cuttings 
under  cover. 

Thalictrum  (Meadow  Rue).     Ranunculacecs. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  division.  The  varieties  by- 
cuttings. 

Thea.     See  Camellia. 


THEOBROMA TIGRIDIA.  327 

Theobroma  (Cacao,  Chocolate-tree).     Sterculiacece . 

Propagated  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  should  be  placed 
in  sand  under  glass,  in  heat. 

Thrift.    See  Armeria. 
Thrinax.     Palmacea-. 

Seeds  in  heat. 
Thunbergia.     Acanthacece. 

Seeds.  Also  cuttings  of  firm  wood  in  a  frame,  for  per- 
ennials. 

Thunia.     Orchidacece. 

As  the  form  of  the  pseudo-bulbs  suggests,  this  genus  is 
easily  propagated  by  cuttings.  These  are  made  about  6 
inches  long  and  inserted  in  pots  of  sand.  After  standing 
in  an  ordinary  propagating  frame  or  moist  stove  for  a 
short  time,  young  growths  will  appear  at  the  nodes. 
When  large  enough  they  are  taken  up  and  potted  in  ordi- 
nary compost.  Two  years,  at  least,  are  needed  for  them 
to  attain  to  flowering  size,  but  this  is  the  best  method 
where  a  large  number  of  plants  are  wanted.  See  also 
under  Orchids. 

Thuya,  including  Biota  ( Arbor- Vitae,  White  Cedar  errone- 
ously).    Conifers. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  ripe  (in 
the  fall)  and  stratified  or  sown  at  once.  Shade  the  seed- 
lings the  first  year.  Layers.  Cuttings  of  green  shoots  in 
summer  in  a  cool  frame.  Cuttings  of  ripe  wood,  as  rec- 
ommended for  retinospora.  The  named  varieties  are 
often  grafted  on  potted  common  stocks  in  winter  or  early 
fall. 

Thyme  (Thymus  vulgaris].     Labiates. 
Seeds  and  division. 

Thyrsacanthus  (Thyrse  Flower).     Acanihacece. 

Seeds ;  cuttings  made  in  spring,  and  placed  in  a  close, 
warm  frame. 

Tiarella.     Saxifragacea. 
Seeds  and  division. 

Tigridia  (Tiger  Flower).     Iridacea. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  but  generally  by  offsets. 


328  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Tilia  (Bass wood,  Linden,  Lime-tree).     Tiliacece. 

Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds.  Layers  may  be 
made,  and  cuttings  may  be  employed,  but'  the  named 
sorts  are  usually  grafted  on  strong  common  stocks. 
Mound-layering  is  sometimes  practiced. 

Tillandsia.    Bromeliacece \ 

May  be  increased  by  seeds,  and  by  suckers  which 
should  be  allowed  to  grow  large  before  being  detached 
from  the  parent,  and  should  then  be  inserted  singly  in 
pots,  in  a  compost  of  loam,  peat,  and  leaf-mold.  Keep 
moderately  moist  and  well  shaded.  T.  usneoides  is  the 
"Spanish  Moss"  of  the  south  ;  rarely  propagated,  but 
may  be  grown  from  seeds  or  division  of  the  moss. 

Tobacco.    See  Nicotiana. 

Tomato  (Lycopersicum  esculentum}.     Solanacece. 

Seeds,  usually  started  under  glass.  Cuttings  of  growing 
shoots,  rooted  under  glass,  like  fuchsias. 

Torenia.    Scrophulariacece. 

Seeds.     Cuttings,  in  a  warm  frame 
Torrcya.     Conifer <z. 

Increased  the  same  as  Thuya  and  Retinospora. 
Trachelium  (Throatwort).     Campanulacece. 

Seeds  and  cuttings. 
Trachelospermum,  Rhynchospermum.     Apocynacece. 

Seeds.     Firm  cuttings,  in  a  frame. 

Trachycarpus.     Palmacecz. 
Seeds  and  suckers. 

Tradescantia.     Commelinacece. 

Usually  by  cuttings  ;  also  by  seeds  and  division.  See 
Zebrina. 

Trailing  Arbutus.     See  Epigaea. 
Trapa  (Water  Caltrops).     Onagracea. 

Seeds. 
Tree  of  Heaven.     See  Ailanthus. 

Trichopilia.     Orchidacecz. 

Division  of  the  plants.     See  also  under  Orchids. 


TRICHOSANTHES — TYD^A.  329 

Tiichosanthes  (Snake  Gourd).     Cucurbitacece. 
Seeds,  either  indoors  or  out. 

Tricyrtis.    Liliacece. 

Seeds  rarely.     Offsets  and  division. 

Trillium  (Birthwort,  Wake-Robin).     Liliaceez. 
Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 

Triteleia  (Triplet  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  offsets. 
Tritoma.     See  Kniphofia. 

Tritonia,  including  Montbretia.     Iridacecz. 

Young  plants  are  raised  from  seeds ;  but  generally  in- 
creased by  division. 

Trollius  (Globe  Flower,  Globe  Ranunculus).    Ranunculacecz. 

Seeds.  Divisions  in  early  autumn  or  spring.  The 
seeds  should  be  sown  fresh,  or  a  long  time  will  be 
required  for  germination. 

Tropseolum  (Nasturtium,  Canary-bird  Flower).     Geraniacece. 

Seeds,  started  indoors  or  in  the  garden.  Tuberiferous 
species  by  tubers  or  division  of  roots.  Perennials  some- 
times by  cuttings  in  a  frame. 

Trumpet  Creeper.     See  Tecoma. 
Tuberose.    See  Polianthes. 

Tulipa  (Tulip).     Liliacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  boxes  of  light  sandy  soil,  in  late 
winter,  and  placed  in  a  coldframe.  The  next  season  the 
young  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  a  prepared  bed  outside. 
Bulbels  may  be  detached  from  established  bulbs  when 
they  are  lifted,  and  grown  by  themselves.  This  is  the 
usual  method. 

Tulip-tree.    See  Liriodendron. 
Tupelo-tree.    See  Nyssa. 
Turnip  (Brassica}.     Crucifercz. 

Seeds,  where  the  plants  are  to  remain. 
Tydsea.     As  for  Gesnera. 


33°  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Typha  (Bullrush,  Cat-Tail,  Reed  Mace).      Typhacea. 

Propagation  may  be  effected  by  seeds  sown  in  a  pot 
plunged  in  water  nearly  to  the  level  of  the  soil  ;  or  by 
division. 

Ulex  (Furze,  Gorse,  Whin).     Leguminoscz. 
Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  cuttings. 

Ulmus  (Elm).     Urticacecz. 

Usually  propagated  by  seeds.  The  seeds  of  most  eims 
germinate  the  year  they  mature  (they  ripen  in  spring),  and 
they  may  be  sown  at  once.  The  slippery  elm  (U.  fulva], 
however,  generally  germinates  the  following  year,  and  the 
seeds  should  be  stratified.  Layers  are  sometimes  made, 
and  suckers  may  be  taken.  The  varieties  are  grafted  on 
common  stocks. 

Umbrella-plant.     See  Cyperus. 
Unicorn  Plant.    See  Martynia. 
Uvularia,  including  Oakesia  (Bellwort).     Liliacea. 
Seeds  ;  usually  by  division. 

Vaccinium  (Swamp  Huckleberry,  Whortleberry,  Blueberry, 

Billberry,  Cranberry).     Ericacecz. 

Seeds,  layers,  root  cuttings,  and  divisions  of  the  old 
plants.  Some  species  by  hard-wood  cuttings,  for  which 
see  Cranberry.  Huckleberry  seeds  are  small  and  some- 
what difficult  to  grow.  The  seeds  should  be  washed  from 
the  fruits  and  stored  in  sand  in  a  cool  place  until  late  in 
winter.  They  are  then  sown  in  pans  or  flats  on  the  sur- 
face of  a  soil  made  of  equal  parts  sand  and  loam.  Cover 
with  fine  sphagnum  and  keep  in  a  cool  house  or  frame, 
always  keeping  the  seeds  moist.  Seeds  treated  in  this 
way  may  be  expected  to  germinate  in  a  month  or  two, 
although  they  may  lie  dormant  a  year.  Transplant  fre- 
quently and  keep  shaded  until  large  enough  to  shift  for 
themselves.  Layers  should  be  tongued.  Cuttings,  2  or 
3  inches  long,  of  the  best  roots,  made  in  fall  and  placed  in 
mild  bottom  heat  in  early  spring,  often  give  fair  satisfac- 
tion. Native  plants  can  be  obtained  from  the  woods  and 
fields  which  will  give  good  satisfaction  if  small  specimens 
are  taken.  Gaylussacias  are  handled  in  the  same  way  as 
vacciniums. 

Valeriana  (Valerian).     Valerianacece . 
Seeds  and  divisions. 


VALLOTA VETCH.  331 

Vallota.     Amaryllidaeece. 

Bulbels,  which  usually  appear  above  the  surface  of  the 
pot.  Division  of  the  bulbs. 

Vanda      Orchidacecz. 

The  majority  are  propagated  in  the  same  way  as  de- 
scribed for  aerides,  but  two  species — V.  teres  and  V. 
Hookeri — both  tall  and  quick  growing,  may  be  cut  into 
lengths  of  a  few  inches.  The  practice  of  the  most  suc- 
cessful cultivators  is  to  start  them  every  year  as  cuttings 
about  a  foot  long.  See  also  under  Orchids. 

Vanilla.     Orchidacecz . 

Division  and  cuttings.  The  vanilla  of  commerce  ( V. 
planifolia]  is  propagated  from  cuttings,  which  are  planted 
at  the  base  of  trees,  upon  which  the  plant  climbs.  See 
also  under  Orchids. 

Vegetable  Oyster.    See  Salsify. 
Veitchia.     Palmacece. 
Seeds. 

Veratrum  (False  or  White  Hellebore).     Liliace<z. 

Young  plants  are  obtained  by  seeds  or  by  division. 

Verbascum  (Mullein).     Scrophulariacea. 

All  are  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  any  ordinary  soil,  ex- 
cept V.  nigrum  and  V.  pinnatifidum,  which  should  be 
increased  by  division  and  cuttings  respectively. 

Verbena  (Vervain).      Verbenacece \ 

Seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  vigorous  shoots.  Some  spe- 
cies by  division. 

Vernonia  (Ironweed).     Composites. 

May  be  raised  from  seeds,  division  or  cuttings,  depend- 
ing on  the  character  of  the  plant. 

Veronica  (Speedwell).     Scrophulariacecz. 

Seeds  and  division.     Shrubby  sorts  often  by  cuttings. 
Vesicaria  (Bladder-pod).     Cruciferce. 

Annuals  by  seeds  ;  perennials  by  division. 
Vetch  (Vicia  sativa,  etc.).     Leguminosa. 

By  seeds,  in  open  air. 


332  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Viburnum.     Caprifoliacece. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  stratified.  They  usually  remain 
dormant  the  first  year.  Layers  usually  make  the  best 
plants.  Green  cuttings  made  in  summer  and  handled  in 
frames  give  excellent  results.  V.  tomentosum  (  V.  plica- 
turn  of  nurseries)  is  propagated  by  cuttings.  Ripe  cut- 
tings are  sometimes  used  for  the  soft-wooded  species. 
The  snowball  or  guelder-rose  (  V.  Opulus]  is  rapidly  in- 
creased by  layers.  It  is  also  a  good  stock  for  closely  re- 
lated species.  V.  Lantana  and  V,  dentata  are  good  stocks 
on  which  varieties  difficult  to  handle  can  be  worked  by 
the  veneer-graft  during  winter. 

Victoria  (Royal  Water  Lily,  Water  Platter).  Nymphczacecz. 
The  seeds  should  be  kept  in  vessels  of  water  until  time 
for  sowing,  when  they  may  be  placed  in  loamy  soil,  and 
the  pot  submerged  a  couple  of  inches  in  water,  the  tem- 
perature of  which  should  not  be  allowed  to  fall  below  °85. 
The  tank  should  be  in  a  light  position  near  the  glass. 
Annual. 

Vigna.    Leguminoscz . 

Seeds.  The  cow-pea  or  black-pea  (  Vigna  Sinensis]  by 
seeds  when  danger  of  frost  is  past. 

Vinca  (Periwinkle,  Running  Myrtle).     Apocynacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  (chiefly)  by  division.  V.  rosea 
annually  by  seeds. 

Viola  (Violet,  Heartsease,  Pansy).     Violacecz. 

The  named  violets  are  increased  by  cuttings  made  in  a 
cool  house  from  vigorous  shoots.  Common  species  by 
seeds,  runners,  and  division  of  the  plants.  Pansies  are 
usually  grown  from  seeds,  but  named  varieties  may  be 
multiplied  late  in  the  season  from  cuttings  or  from  layers. 

Virgilia.    See  Cladrastis. 

Virginia  Creeper.    See  Ampelopsis. 

Virgin's  Bower.    See  Clematis. 

Viscum  (Mistletoe).     Loranthacecz. 

Raised  from  seed,  which  should  be  inserted  in  a  notch 
cut  in  the  bark  or  under  side  of  a  branch  of  the  host. 
Avoid  crushing  the  seed,  and  have  the  embryo  directed 
towards  the  trunk.  To  prevent  birds  from  disturbing  the 
seeds  after  being  placed  in  position,  cover  with  light-col- 


VITEX WAX-FLOWER.  333 

ored  cloth.     The  seed  may  also  be  fastened  to  a  smooth 
part  of  the  tree  by  the  sticky  substance  surrounding  it, 
but  more  seed  is  lost.     Our  native  phoradendron  can  be 
handled  in  the  same  way. 
Vitex  (Chaste-tree).      Verbenacea. 

Seeds.  Suckers.  Layers.  Cuttings  of  green  or  ri- 
pened wood. 

Vitis.    See  Grape. 

Vochysia,  Cucullaria.     Vochysiacecz. 

Seeds  ;  by  ripened  cuttings  in  sand  under  glass,  in  heat. 
Volkameria.     See  Clerodendron. 
Waahoo.     See  Euonymus. 
Wahlenbergia.     See  Platycodon. 
Waldsteinia.     Rosacece. 

May  be  multiplied  by  seeds,  or  by  division. 
Wallflower  (  Cheiranthtis  Cheiri}.     Crucifercz. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  the  plants,  however,  will  not 
flower  at  the  north  until  the  second  season  ;  protection  of 
a  frame  is  required. 

Wallichia,  Wrightia.     Palmacece. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds ;  or  by  suckers,  which 
should  be  gradually  separated  so  as  to  allow  them  to 
make  sufficient  roots  before  they  are  quite  detached. 

Walnut.     See  Juglans. 

Wandering  Jew.     See  Zebrina. 

Water-Cress  {Nasturtium  officinal?) .     Cruciferce, 

Cuttings  of  the  young  stems,  which  root  in  mud  with 
great  readiness.  Seeds  scattered  in  the  water  or  mud. 

Water-lily.     See  Nymphaea,  Nelumbo  and  Victoria. 

Water-melon  (Citrullus  vulgaris}.     Cucurbitacece . 

Seeds,  usually  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain, 
after  the  weather  is  warm  and  settled. 

Watsonia  (Bugle  Lily).     Iridacecz. 

The  plants  are  multiplied  by  seeds  or  by  offsets. 

Wax-flower.     See  Hoya. 


334  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Weigela.    See  Diervilla. 
Wellingtonia.     See  Sequoia. 
Whin.     See  Ulex  and  Cytisus. 
White  Cedar.     See  Chamaecyparis  and  Thuya. 
White- wood.     See  Liriodendron  and  Tilia. 
Whitlavia.     See  Phacelia. 

Whortleberry,  Huckleberry  (Gaylussaciaresinosa}.  Ericaeetz. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should   be  stratified   anq 
otherwise  carefully  handled.     See  also  Vaccinium. 

Willow.     See  Salix. 
Wind-flower.     See  Anemone. 

Windsor,  Broad  or  Horse  Bean  (  Vicia  Faba].     Leguminosce. 
Propagated  by  seeds  in  open  air  after  the  soil  is  fairly 
warm. 

Wineberry  (Rubus  phcenicolasius}.     Rosaces. 

Increases  readily  by  "tips,"  the  same  as  the  black  rasp- 
berry ;  also  by  root  cuttings. 

Winter  Aconite.    See  Eranthis. 

Winter  Cress.     See  Barbarea. 

Wistaria.     Leguminosa. 

Readily  grown  from  seeds.  Sometimes  by  division. 
Layers.  Cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  usually  handled  under 
glass.  The  common  purple  and  white  kinds  are  largely 
grown  from  root  cuttings,  an  inch  or  two  long,  placed  in 
bottom  heat,  when  they  will  start  in  four  or  five  weeks. 
Many  of  the  fancy  kinds,  especially  when  wood  is  scarce, 
are  root-  or  crown-grafted  upon  W.  Sinensis. 

Witch-hazel      See  Hamamelis. 

Woodbine.     A  name  properly  belonging  to  climbing  Loni- 
ceras,  but  often  applied  to  Ampelopsis,  both  of  which  see. 

Wormwood,     Southern    Wood     (Artemisia     Absinthium}. 

Composites. 
Seeds  and  division. 
Wrightia,  Balfouria  (Palay,  or  Ivory-tree).     Apocynacetz. 

Seeds ;  usually  by  cuttings,  which  root  readily  in  sand 
in  heat. 


XANTHOCERAS ZEBRA-GRASS.  335 

Xanthoceras.     Sapindacea : 

Usually  multiplied  by  seeds  ;    root  cuttings  are  some- 
times used. 
Xanthorrhiza,  Zanthorhiza.     Ranunculacetz. 

Seeds  and  suckers. 
Xanthorrhcea  (Black  Boy,  Grass-tree).    Juncacetz. 

Seeds  ;  but  usually  by  offsets. 
Xanthosoma,  including  Acontias.     Aroideez. 

May  be  increased  by  cutting  up  the  stem  or  rootstock 
into  small  pieces  and  planting  these  in  light  soil,  or  cocoa 
fiber,  in  bottom  heat.  After  a  stem  has  been  cut  off  a 
number  of  shoots  are  developed,  which  can  be  treated  as 
cuttings. 

Xcrophyllum.     Liliacece. 

May  be  propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
Xiphion.     See  Iris. 
Xylophylla.     See  Phyllanthus. 
Yam.     See  Dioscorea. 
Yellow-wood.    See  Cladrastis. 
Yew.    See  Taxus. 
Yucca  (Adam's  Needle,   Bear's   Grass,  Spanish   Bayonet). 

Liliacecz. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  and  by  divisions,  which  may  be 
planted  in  the  open  ground,  or  by  pieces  of  thick,  fleshy 
roots,  cut  into  lengths,  and  inserted  in  sandy  soil,  in  heat. 

Yulan.    See  Magnolia. 
Zamia.     Cycadacece. 

Division  of  the  crowns  when  possible  ;  or  by  seeds  and 

suckers.     The  plants  are  oftenest  imported  directly  from 

the  tropics.     See  Cycas. 

Zanthorhiza.     See  Xanthorrhiza. 

Zanthoxylum  (Prickly  Ash).     Rutacetz. 

Seeds,  suckers,  but  more  often  by  root  cuttings. 

Zea.    See  Maize. 
Zebra-grass.     See  Miscanthus. 


336  THE    NURSERY    LIST. 

Zebrina  (Wandering  Jew).     Commelinacea \ 

Very  easily  multiplied  by  single-joint  cuttings  of  the 
trailing  shoots.  These  shoots  root  at  the  joints  if  allowed 
to  run  on  moist  earth. 

Zephyranthes,  including  Habranthus  (Flower  of  the  West 
Wind,  Zephyr  Flower).     Anutryllidacea. 

May  be  multiplied  by  seeds  ;  or  by  separating  the  bulbels. 
Zingiber,  including  Zerumbet  (Ginger).     Scitaminecs. 

Propagated  by  division. 
Zinnia  (Youth-and-Old-Age).     Composites. 

Seeds,  sown  either  indoors  or  out. 
Zizania  (Wild  or  Indian  Rice).     Graminecs. 

Seeds,  sown  along  water  courses  or  in  bogs  in  fall  or 
spring. 

Zizyphus.    See  Jujube. 

Zygadenus,  including  Amianthemum.     Liliacece. 

Readily  multiplied  by  seeds  or  by  division. 
Z  y  gopetalum ,     Orchidacece. 

Division.     See  also  under  Orchids. 
Zygophyllum  (Bean  Caper).     Zygophyllacece. 

Seeds,  when  they  can  be  had  ;  otherwise  by  cuttings  in 
a  frame. 


GLOSSARY. 

Adventitious.  Said  of  buds  which  appear  in  unusual  places, 
especially  of  those  which  are  caused  to  appear  on  roots 
and  stems  by  any  method  of  pruning  or  other  treatment. 

Air-layering.     See  Pot-layering. 

Bark-grafting.  A  kind  of  grafting  in  which  the  cions  are 
inserted  between  the  bark  and  wood  of  a  stub  ;  often, 
but  erroneously,  called  crown-grafting.  Fig.  135. 

Bottle-grafting.  A  method  of  grafting  in  which  a  shred  of 
bark  from  the  cion,  or  a  portion  of  the  bandage,  is 
allowed  to  hang  in  water  (generally  in  a  bottle,  whence 
the  name),  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  cion  with 
moisture  until  it  has  united  with  the  stock.  Pages  112, 
132. 

Bottom  heat.  A  term  used  to  designate  the  condition  that 
arises  when  the  roots  of  plants,  or  the  soil  in  which  they 
grow,  are  exposed  to  a  higher  temperature  than  that  of 
the  air  in  which  the  aerial  portions  of  the  same  plants 
are  growing. 

Breaking.  Said  of  buds  and  cions  which  start  (or  break}  pre- 
maturely. Page  101. 

Brick  (of  mushroom).     See  Spawn. 

Bud.  As  used  by  propagators,  a  bud  comprises  the  leaf-bud 
(or  rarely  a  short  spur)  and  a  bit  of  bark  or  wood  to 
which  it  is  attached.  Figs.  85,  96,  99,  100. 

Budding.  The  operation  of  applying  a  single  bud  to  the 
surface  of  the  growing  wood  of  the  stock,  with  the  in- 
tention that  it  shall  grow.  The  bud  is  usually  inserted 
underneath  the  bark  of  the  cion,  and  is  held  in  place  by 
a  bandage.  Budding  is  a  part  of  the  general  process  of 
graftage.  Called  inoculation  in  old  writings.  Page  94. 
(337) 


338  GLOSSARY. 

Bulb.  A  large  and  more  or  less  permanent  and  fleshy  leaf- 
bud,  usually  occupying  the  base  of  the  stem  and  bearing 
roots  on  its  lower  portion.  Scaly  bulbs,  like  that  of  the 
lily  (Figs.  19,  20),  are  made  up  of  narrow  and  mostly 
loose  imbricated  scales.  Tunicated  or  laminated  bulbs, 
like  that  of  the  onion,  are  composed  of  closely  fitting 
and  more  continuous  layers  or  plates. 

Bulbel.  A  smaller  or  secondary  bulb  borne  about  a  mother 
bulb  ;  bulbule.  Page  27. 

Bulblet.  A  small  bulb  borne  wholly  above  ground,  usually 
in  the  inflorescence  or  in  the  axil  of  the  leaf,  as  in  "  top 
onions,"  tiger  lily,  etc. 

Bulbo-tuber.    See  Corm. 

Bulbule.    See  Bulbel. 

Callus.  The  mass  of  reparative  or  healing  tissue  which 
forms  over  a  wound. 

Cambium.  The  tissue  which  lies  between  the  bark  and  the 
wood,  and  from  which  those  parts  arise. 

Chinese- layering.    See  Pot-layering. 

Chip-budding.  That  style  of  budding  which  removes  a 
truncheon  or  chip  of  bark  and  wood  from  the  side  of  the 
stock,  and  fills  the  cavity  with  a  similarly  shaped  bud 
from  the  variety  which  it  is  desired  to  propagate.  Fig. 

100. 

Cion  or  Scion.  A  portion  of  a  plant  which  is  mechanically 
inserted  upon  the  same  or  another  plant  (stock),  with  the 
intention  that  it  shall  grow.  See  Chapter  V.,  and  Figs. 
101,  102,  108,  in,  115,  116,  119,  and  others. 

Cion-budding.    See  Shield-grafting. 

Circumposition.    See  Pot-layering. 

Cleft-grafting.  That  method  of  grafting  in  which  the  stock 
is  cut  off  completely  and  then  split,  and  one  or  more 
cions,  cut  wedge-shape,  inserted  in  the  cleft.  Figs.  118, 
119,  124,  125,  126,  134. 

The  grafted  end  of  the  stock  (Figs.  118,  126)  is  called 
a  stub. 


CLOVE DOUBLE-WORKING.  339 

Clove.  One  of  the  small  separable  portions  of  a  composite 
bulb,  as  in  the  garlic. 

Corm.  A  solid  bulb-like  tuber,  more  or  less  covered  with  a 
sheathing  or  enwrapping  tissue,  as  in  the  crocus  and 
gladiolus  ;  bulbo-tuber.  Fig.  25. 

Cormel.  A  small  corm  borne  about  another  or  mother 
corm.  Page  31.  Fig.  25.  Sometimes  called  spawn. 

Crown.  A  detachable  portion  or  branch  of  a  rootstock  bear- 
ing roots  and  a  prominent  bud.  Page  32. 

That  portion  of  the  plant  at  the  surface  of  the  ground 
which  stands  between  the  visible  stem  and  root ;  collar. 

Crown-grafting.  Grafting  upon  the  crown  or  collar  of  a 
plant  (z.  e.,  at  the  surface  of  the  ground).  Page  107. 

Also  applied  to  bark-grafting  (but  improperly).     Page 
129. 

Cuttagc.  The  practice  or  process  of  multiplying  plants  by 
means  of  cuttings,  or  the  state  or  condition  of  being 
thus  propagated.  [First  used  by  the  present  author  in 
26th  Report  of  the  State  Board  of  Agriculture  of  Mich- 
igan, p.  432  (1887).  Equivalent  to  the  French  boutu- 
rage.~\  See  Chapter  IV. 

Cutting.  A  severed  portion  of  a  plant,  inserted  in  soil, 
water,  or  other  medium,  with  the  intention  that  it  shall 
grow;  a  slip.  See  Chapter  IV. 

Cutting-bench.  A  bed  or  table  in  a  glass-house,  or  under 
cover,  used  for  the  rooting  of  cuttings.  Fig.  58. 

Cutting-grafting.  The  grafting  of  a  cion  upon  a  cutting. 
Page  131.  Figs.  105,  137. 

Damping-off .  The  rotting  away  of  the  tissue  of  plant  stems 
at  or  near  the  surface  of  the  ground.  It  is  the  work  of 
fungi  or  of  germs.  Page  23. 

Division.  Propagation  of  plants  by  means  of  severed  por- 
tions of  the  root  system  or  of  subterranean  stems. 
Pages  32  and  58. 

Double- working.  Grafting  or  budding  upon  a  plant  or  shoot 
which  is  itself  a  graft  or  bud.  Page  133.  Fig.  140. 


340  GLOSSARY. 

Dressing  (of  stocks).  The  trimming  of  stocks,  which  are  to 
be  budded  or  grafted,  before  they  are  set  in  the  nursery- 
row.  Fig.  86.  Page  96. 

Dwarfing.  The  permanent  checking  of  the  growth  of  a  plant 
so  that  it  never  attains  its  normal  stature.  The  chief 
means  employed  in  the  dwarfing  of  trees  are,  grafting 
upon  a  slow-growing  stock,  heading-in  of  the  top,  con- 
fining or  pruning  the  roots.  Page  147. 

Eye.  A  bud.  Single-eye  cuttings  are  those  bearing  but 
one  bud.  Fig  66. 

Flagging.  Wilting.  Said  of  plants  newly  transplanted,  or 
of  cuttings.  Pages  53,  66,  68.  Also  applied  to  the 
general  wilting  of  plants  due  to  lack  of  water. 

Flat.  A  shallow  box  or  tray,  in  which  the  gardener  grows 
or  transports  plants. 

Flute-budding.  That  method  of  budding  which  removes  a 
rectangular  portion  of  bark  from  the  stock  and  fills  the 
cavity  with  a  similar  piece  of  bark,  of  the  desired  va- 
riety, bearing  a  bud.  Fig.  99. 

Frame.    The  structure  forming  the  sides  and  ends  of  cold 
frames  or  hotbeds.     A  frame  is  commonly  six  feet  wide 
and  of  sufficient  length  to  accommodate  from  three  to 
six  three-feet-wide  sash.     It  is  usually  made  of  boards. 
The  area  covered  by  a  single  glass  shutter  is  called  a 
sash,  and  is  generally  3x6  feet.    The  area  which  is  com- 
monly understood  as  one  frame  is  6  x  12  feet. 
Free  Stock.    See  Stock  and  Seedling. 

Germination.  The  act  or  process  by  means  of  which  a  seed 
or  spore  gives  rise  to  a  new  plant.  Germination  is  com- 
plete when  the  plantlet  has  exhausted  the  store  of  food 
in  the  seed  and  is  able  to  support  itself.  Page  9.  The 
word  germination  cannot  be  properly  applied  to  the 
arising  of  plants  from  tubers,  as  of  the  potato  ;  vegeta- 
tion is  the  better  term  in  .such  cases. 


GRAFTAGE HERBACEOUS-GRAFTING.  34! 

Graftage.  The  process  or  operation  of  grafting  or  budding, 
or  the  state  or  condition  of  being  grafted  or  budded. 
[First  used  by  the  present  author  in  26th  Report  of  the 
State  Board  of  Agriculture  of  Michigan,  p.  433  (1887). 
Equivalent  to  the  French  greffage.'}  See  Chapter  V. 

Grafting.  The  operation  of  inserting  a  cion  in  a  stock.  It 
is  commonly  restricted  to  the  operation  of  inserting 
cions  of  two  or  more  buds,  in  distinction  from  budding, 
or  the  operation  of  inserting  a  single  bud  in  the  stock ; 
but  there  are  no  essential  differences  between  the  two 
operations.  See  Chapter  V. 

H-budding.  Much  like  flute-budding  (which  see),  except 
that  the  bark  which  is  loosened  from  the  stock  is  left 
attached  in  two  flaps,  secured  at  the  upper  and  lower 
ends,  and  these  flaps  are  tied  over  the  bud.  Fig.  98. 

Heading-in.  Cutting  back  or  shortening  the  shoots  or 
branches  of  plants,  in  distinction  to  removing  the  branch 
bodily  at  its  point  of  union  with  the  parent  branch. 

Heel.     A  form  of  cutting  of  which  the  lower  end  comprises 

the  very  base  of  the  shoot  as  it  grew  upon  the  parent 

branch.     Fig.  60. 
Heeling-in.    The  temporary  covering  of  plants,  or  of  their 

roots,  in  order  to  preserve  or  protect  them  until  they  are 

placed  in  permanent  quarters. 

Herb.  A  plant  which  dies  to  the  ground  once  a  year,  at  the 
approach  of  winter  or  of  the  inactive  season.  Used  in 
distinction  to  woody  plants,  like  shrubs  and  trees. 
Perennial  herbs  are  those  of  which  the  tops  or  aerial 
portions  perish  while  the  root  lives  on  from  year  to 
year,  in  distinction  to  an  annual  herb,  which  perishes 
outright  after  one  season  of  growth  and  flowering. 

Herbaceous-grafting.    The  grafting  of  soft,  growing  shoots  ; 
generally  confined  to  the  grafting  of  herbs,  but  the  term 
may  be  applied  to  the  grafting  of  the  growing  shoots  of 
woody  plants.     Page  130. 
w 


342  GLOSSARY. 

Inarching  The  joining,  by  graftage,  of  parts  of  two  con- 
tiguous plants,  whilst  the  cion  part  is  still  attached  to 
its  parent  plant.  The  cion  is  severed  from  its  parent 
when  it  has  united  with  its  foster  stock.  Figs.  138,  139. 

Inlaying.  The  insertion  of  a  cion  into  a  cavity  or  notch 
made  by  the  removal  of  a  piece  of  wood  from  the  stock. 
Fig.  116. 

June-budding.  The  practice  of  budding  trees  very  early  in 
the  season,  commonly  in  June,  with  the  expectation  that 
the  buds  are  to  grow  the  same  season.  Practiced  in  the 
south.  Page  103. 

Knaur.  An  excrescence  or  burr  appearing  as  redundant  or 
adventitious  tissue  upon  a  woody  plant,  and  which  may 
be  used  for  the  propagation  of  the  plant  when  removed 
and  treated  like  a  cutting.  Page  64. 

Layer.  A  shoot  or  root,  attached  to  the  parent  plant,  par- 
tially or  wholly  covered  with  earth,  with  the  intention 
that  it  shall  take  root  and  then  be  severed  from  the 
parent.  See  Figs.  29,  30. 

Layerage.  The  operation  or  practice  of  making  a  layer,  or 
the  state  or  condition  of  being  layered.  [Word  first 
used  by  the  present  author  in  26th  Report  of  the  State 
Board  of  Agriculture  of  Michigan,  p.  431  (1887).  Equiv- 
alent to  the  French  marcottage,~\  See  Chapter  III. 

Mallet.  A  form  of  cutting  in  which  a  prominent  transverse 
portion  of  an  older  branch  is  left  upon  the  lower  end. 
Fig.  61. 

Mother-bulb.  The  large  or  parent  bulb  about  which  smaller 
bulbs,  or  bulbels,  are  borne. 

Mound-layering.  The  rooting  of  upright  shoots  by  means 
of  heaping  earth  about  them  ;  stool-layering.  Fig.  32. 

Nursery.  An  establishment  for  the  rearing  of  plants.  In 
America  the  word  is  commonly  but  erroneously  used  in 
connection  with  the  propagation  of  woody  plants  only, 
as  fruit  trees  and  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs.  The 


OFFSET RHIZOME.  343 

word  properly  includes  the  propagation  of  all  plants  by 
whatever  means,  and  in  this  sense  it  is  used  in  this  book. 

Offset.  A  rosette  or  cluster  of  leaves,  on  a  very  short  axis, 
borne  next  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  in  time  be- 
coming detached  and  making  an  independent  plant. 
Page  32. 

Piece-root-grafting.  Grafting  upon  pieces  of  roots.  Page 
109.  Figs.  103,  104.  See  also,  Figs.  144-152. 

Pip.  A  perpendicular  rootstock  or  crown,  used  for  the 
propagation  of  a  plant.  Page  33. 

A  seed  of  one  of  the  "seed  fruits,"  as  apple  or  pear. 
Used  in  distinction  to  the  stone  or  pit  of  a  "  stone  fruit." 

Plate-budding.  Much  like  flute-budding  (which  see),  except 
that  the  bark  loosened  from  the  stock  is  left  attached  at 
its  lower  end,  and  this  flap  is  then  raised  and  bound 
over  the  bud.  Fig.  97. 

Pot-layering.  The  rooting  of  an  aerial  stem  by  means  of 
encircling  it  with  earth  or  moss.  Figs.  34,  35.  Known 
also  as  air-layering,  Chinese-layering,  and  circumpo- 
sition. 

Prong-budding.  A  method  of  propagation  much  like  shield- 
budding,  except  that  the  bud  bears  a  short  branch  or 
spur.  Fig.  96. 

Pseudo-bulb.  Generically,  a  corm,  or  homogeneous  bulb- 
like  enlargement  under  ground  or  at  the  base  of  the 
plant.  The  term  is  now  commonly  restricted,  however, 
to  the  thickened  bases  of  the  stems  in  various  orchids  ; 
these  usually  stand  just  at  or  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  See  under  Orchids,  page  284. 

Regermination.  The  continuation  or  resumption  of  the  pro- 
cess of  germination  after  it  has  been  completely  inter- 
rupted or  checked.  Page  9. 

Rhizome.  A  subterranean  branch  or  stem  ;  rootstock.  A 
rhizome  is  distinguished  from  a  root  by  the  presence  of 
joints  and  buds  ;  and  it  is  usually  thicker  and  more 
fleshy  than  the  roots. 


344  GLOSSARY. 

Root-grafting.  Grafting  upon  a  root.  Pages  107,  109. 
Figs.  103,  104.  See  also,  Figs.  144-152. 

Rootstock.    See  Rhizome. 

Root-tip.    See  Tip. 

Saddle-grafting.  That  method  of  grafting  in  which  the 
stock  is  cut  wedge-shape,  and  the  cion  is  cleft  and 
slipped  down  over  the  wedge.  Fig.  109. 

Scion.    See  Cion. 

Seed.  The  reproductive  body  which  results  from  a  flower, 
and  which  is  the  product  of  sexual  union.  It  is  a 
ripened  ovule.  The  rudimentary  plantlet  which  it  con- 
tains is  the  embryo. 

Seedage.  The  process  or  operation  of  propagating  by  seeds 
or  spores,  or  the  state  or  condition  of  being  propagated 
by  seeds  or  spores.  [Word  first  used  by  the  present 
author  in  26th  Report  of  the  State  Board  of  Agriculture 
of  Michigan,  p.  430  (1887).]  See  Chapter  I. 

Seed-grafting.  The  insertion  of  a  seed,  as  a  cion,  in  a 
stock.  Page  131. 

Seedling.  A  plant  growing  directly  from  the  seed  without 
the  intervention  of  graftage.  If  it  is  used  upon  which 
to  graft  or  bud,  it  is  known  as  a  free  stock. 

Separation.  The  act  or  process  of  multiplying  plants  by 
means  of  naturally  detachable  vegetative  organs,  or  the 
state  or  condition  of  being  so  multiplied.  [First  tech- 
nically used  in  this  meaning  in  26th  Report  of  the  State 
Board  of  Agriculture  of  Michigan,  p.  432  (1887).]  See 
Chapter  II. 

Set.  An  indefinite  term  applied  to  various  vegetative  parts 
which  are  used  for  purposes  of  propagation.  It  may 
designate  a  root  cutting  (Fig.  64),  or  a  small  bulb  (as  in 
the  onion). 

Shield-budding.  That  method  of  budding  which  makes  a 
T-shaped  incision  on  the  stock  (Fig.  90),  and  inserts  a 
shield-shaped  bud  (Fig.  85)  into  the  opening  (Fig.  91) 
Page  95. 


SHIELD-GRAFTING STOLON.  345 

Shield-grafting.  The  insertion  of  a  cion  with  a  wedge- 
shape  point  into  an  incision  like  that  used  for  shield  - 
budding  ;  cion-budding.  Fig.  115. 

Side-grafting.    The    insertion  of  a  cion  with  a  sharp  or 
wedge-shape    point  into  a  diagonal  incision  into  the 
wood  on  the  side  of  the  stock.     Figs.  113,  114,  115. 
See,  also,  Veneer-grafting. 

Silver  Sand.  Clear  white  sand  devoid  of  organic  matter, 
used  for  the  starting  of  cuttings.  Page  54. 

Slip.    See  Cutting  ;  also,  page  65. 

Spawn.  The  dried  mycelium  of  mushrooms,  preserved  fn 
dense  masses  of  prepared  earth  and  manure  (known  as 
"bricks"),  or  in  loqse,  strawy  litter  (known  as 
"French  spawn"),  or  in  the  loose  earth  of  mushroom 
beds. 
See,  also,  Cormel. 

Splice-grafting.  The  joining  of  simple  oblique  surfaces  in 
the  stock  and  cion.  Fig.  no. 

Spore.  The  reproductive  body  of  a  flowerless  plant  (or 
cryptogam),  as  of  ferns,  fungi,  sea-weeds,  and  the  like. 
It  has  no  embryo,  and  it  commonly  consists  of  a  single 
cell. 

Spur.  A  very  short  branch,  usually  lateral,  which  does  not 
increase  markedly  in  length  from  year  to  year.  The 
normal  office  of  spurs  is  to  bear  flowers  and  fruit. 

Stem-grafting.  Grafting  upon  the  stem  or  trunk  of  a  plant, 
between  the  crown  (or  the  ground)  and  the  top.  Page 
107. 

Stick.  A  twig  of  the  recent  growth  of  any  plant,  bearing  buds 
which  it  is  proposed  to  use  in  propagation.  Fig.  87. 

Stock.  In  graftage,  a  plant  or  part  of  a  plant  upon  which  a 
cion  or  bud  is  set.  A  free  stock  is  a  seedling,  in  dis- 
tinction from  a  grafted  stock. 

Stolon.  A  decumbent  shoot  which,  without  artificial  aid, 
takes  root  and  forms  an  independent  plant.  The  honey- 


346  GLOSSARY. 

suckles,  some  osiers  (as  Cornus  stolonifera),  and  many 
other  bushes  with  long  and  slender  branches,  propagate 
by  means  of  stolons.  The  black  raspberry  propagates 
by  a  special  kind  of  stolon,  rooting  only  at  its  tip. 

Stool.    A  clump  or  mass  of  roots  or  rootstocks  which  may 

be  readily  divided  for  purposes  of  propagation.     Fig.  27. 

An  established  root  of  a  bush-like  plant  from  which 

shoots  are  grown  for  the  purpose  of  layering.     Page  39. 

Stool-layering.    See  Mound-layering. 

Stove.  The  warmest  portion  or  compartment  of  glass- 
houses, used  for  tropical  plants. 

Stratification.  The  operation  of  burying  seeds,  usually  in 
layers,  in  order  to  keep  them  viable  and  to  soften  their 
integuments.  Page  15. 

Striking.  A  term  applied  to  the  forming  or  emitting  of 
roots  on  layers  or  cuttings.  A  cutting  is  struck  when  it 
has  made  roots. 

Stub.    See  Cleft-grafting. 

Sucker.  A  shoot  sent  up  from  the  roots,  more  particularly 
one  which  it  is  not  desired  shall  grow.  Also  used  for 
strong  and  mischievous  shoots  in  the  top  of  a  tree.  See 
Watersprout. 

Tip.  The  plant  formed  at  the  end  of  a  stolon  when  it  strikes 
the  ground.  The  black  raspberry  propagates  naturally 
by  tips.  Fig.  28.  The  branches  of  other  plants,  like 
the  currant,  can  be  made  to  strike  at  the  tip  when  they 
are  bent  over  and  fastened  in  the  ground. 

Tongue-grafting.    See  Whip-grafting. 

Top-grafting.  Grafting  the  top  or  branches  of  a  tree  or 
bush.  Pages  107,  122.  Figs.  127-132.- 

Tuber.  As  used  in  this  book,  a  prominently  thickened  and 
turgid  homogeneous  portion  of  a  root  or  stem,  usually 
subterranean,  and  which  generally  does  not  increase  or 


TUBULAR-BUDDING WHISTLE-BUDDING.  347 

perpetuate  itself  (as  bulbs  and  corms  do)  by  direct  off- 
shoots or  accessions.     Page  32. 

In  botanical  writings,  the  term  is  commonly  restricted 
to  thickened  subterranean  stems,  as  in  the  Irish  potato 
and  the  Jerusalem  artichoke. 

Tubular-budding.     See  Whistle-budding. 

Veneer-grafting,  That  style  of  grafting  in  which  a  cion,  with 
the  bark  removed  from  one  side,  is  applied  to  the  side 
of  a  stock  from  which  a  strip  of  bark  has  been  removed. 
Sometimes  called  side-grafting.  Figs,  in,  112. 

Watersprout.  A  strong  and  comparatively  soft  shoot  arising 
from  an  adventitious  bud  in  the  top  or  from  the  trunk  of 
a  plant.  It  is  usually  forced  out  by  severe  pruning  or 
heading-in.  It  is  an  undesirable  type  of  shoot  when  fruits 
or  flowers  are  desired,  because  it  expends  its  energies 
for  one  or  several  seasons  in  exuberant  growth.  Water- 
sprouts  are  often  purposely  obtained,  however,  when  it 
is  desired  to  secure  young  wood  in  which  to  set  buds  in 
old  trees.  Page  105.  Compare  Sucker. 

Whip-grafting.  A  style  of  grafting  in  which  the  stock  and 
cion  are  shaped  alike— an  oblique  cut  and  a  perpendicu- 
lar cleft ;  tongue-grafting.  Figs.  101,  102. 

Whistle-budding.  That  kind  of  budding  in  which  a  ring  or 
girdle  of  bark  is  removed  from  the  stock,  the  girdle  be- 
ing filled  by  a  similar  ring,  with  a  bud  attached,  of  the 
variety  which  it  is  desired  to  propagate  ;  tubular-bud- 
ding. Page  106. 


INDEX. 


The  alphabetical  entries  or  headings  in  the  Nursery  List, 
Chapter  VI.,  are  not  included  in  this  index,  but  all  second- 
ary and  incidental  names  and  references  comprised  in  it 
are  intended  to  be  included  here.  Inasmuch  as  many  culti- 
vated plants  of  secondary  importance  had  to  be'  omitted 
from  the  Nursery  List  in  the  effort  to  economize  space,  the 
present  index  has  been  made  to  include  the  names  of  all  the 
natural  families  of  plants  which  that  List  comprises,  in  the 
hope  of  aiding  the  student  in  apprehending  the  general 
methods  of  propagation  which  apply  to  the  family  of  which 
any  plant,  itself  omitted  from  the  List,  may  be  a  member. 
This  ordinal  index  was  made  a  separate  feature  of  the  first 
edition  of  the  book. 

Page 

Acanthaceae 159,  169,  183, 

231,  236,  260,  265,  323,  327 

Achras     315 

Aconite 160 

—Winter 231 

Acontias 335 

Acorns,  transporting 19 

Adamsia 306 

Adonis  seeds 8 

^Egle  trifoliata 76 

Affinities,  for  graftage    ....    77 

African  I^ily 162 

Agrostemma 268 

Air-layering  ...      40 

Akebia  quinata 68 

Alcoholic  waxes 136 

Alismaceae 163,  193,  266 

Allegheny  Vine 161 

Alligator  Pear  . 295 


Page 

Allium  Ascalonicum 318 

— Cepa 281 

— fistulosum 281 

— Porrum 264 

— sativum 238 

— Schcenoprasum 209 

— Scorodoprasum 311 

Allspice 198 

Almond  for  peach  stock     ...    74 

— Tropical 326 

Althea  cuttings 68 

Amarantacese 165,  258 

Amaryllidaceae    .  162,  165,  188,  190, 

192, 196, 197,  213,  218,  220,  222,  228, 

232,  233,  238,  239,  249,  253,  256,  257, 

258,  265,  277,  279,  289,  303,  331,  336 

Amelanchier  oblongifolia     .  .  260 

American    Agriculturist, 

quoted 246 


(349) 


350 


INDEX. 


American  Centaury 

— Cress 

Amomophyllum 
Anacardiacese    . 


Page 

•   •   -313 

.  .  182 
...  320 
.  167,  271, 


300,  311,  316,  321 

Ananas  sativus  298 

Andromeda  seeds  20 

Anethum  graveolens 226 

Aniseed-tree 257 

Anisopetalum 193 

Annular-budding 106 

Anonacese 168,  176,  178 

Apium  graveolens 203 

— Petroselinum 289 

Apocynacese 164,  166, 

170,  227,  270,  279,  325,  328,  332,  334 

Apple  Berry  186 

— dwarfing  ............  148 

—effect  on  land 140 

—Paradise  39 

—root  cuttings 61 

— seeds,  treatment  of  .  .  .  .  17,  19 

— stock,  height  for 146 

— stocks  for  74,  75 

Apricot,  St.  Domingo 270 

— stocks 164 

Aquatic  plants,  sowing  seeds  .  21 

Aquilegias  33 

Araliacese 175,  221, 

240,  250,  286,  3:6 
Arbor-vitse,  Japanese  ....  309 

Arching  layers 38 

Aristolochiacese  ...  176,  177 

Arloing,  on  Cactus  cuttings  .  .  194 

Aroidese 160,  164,  166, 

169,  176,  177,  195, 
249,  274,  287,  294,  297, 

3",  315,  3i6,  320,  322,  335 

Artemisia  Absinthium    ....  334 

"          Dracunculus  .   .   .      326 

Arthur,  J.  C.,  Geneva  tester  .   .    n 

Artillery  Plant 298 

Asclepiadaceae  ....  167,  177,  205, 

241,  255,  271,  295,  321,  322 
Asexual  propagation 91 


Page 

Ash 65 

Aspen 304 

Asphodel 178 

Atkinson,  quoted 23 

Aubletia 288 

Augur,  Mr.,  quoted 75 

Autumn  Crocus 214 

Avocado  Pear 295 

Azalea  Indica      65 

Balfouria 334 

Balsam  Fir  stocks     .       .      157,  298 

Baltet,  quoted 80 

Bamboo   ....          181 

Bandages,  waxed 137 

Bark-grafting 129 

Barnard's  tank       49 

Bartow      Courier -Informant, 

quoted .    .  283 

Bass-bark .  100 

Bastard  Cedar 203 

— Indigo      166 

Bass  wood  cuttings 55 

Bead-tree    ...  ....  273 

Bean,  Broad  or  Horse     .   .       .  334 

—grafting 78 

—dwarfs 148 

Bearbind        .  198 

Beard-tongue 294 

Bear's  Breech 159 

Beech,  grafting 116 

Begonia 70,  71,  72 

— plantlets  of 30 

— seeds   21 

Begoniaceae 184 

Belladonna 179 

Bell-jar        . 44 

Bellwort,  Giant 287 

Bene  .   .       .       318 

Berberidacese 163,  182. 

1 86,  203,  230,  259,  264,  303 

Berberis  vulgaris 182 

Beta  vulgaris 184 

Bignoniaceae 166,  186, 

202,  209,  229,  258,  326 
Bindweed .  .      198,  215 


INDEX. 


351 


Page 
B'rd  of  Paradise  Flower    .   .   .  323 

Bird's-tongue  Flower 323 

Blackberry  Lily      185 

— root  cuttings 61 

Black  Boy 335 

— Hellebore   .   .       252 

—Pea 332 

— .Salsify 316 

Bladder-pod 331 

Blue  Cohosh 203 

Blue  Flag 258 

Boards,  on  seeds 4 

Boneset 233 

Boning 98 

Boring  seeds 18 

Borraginaceae    ....  167,  176,  189, 

215,  251,  273,  276,  281,  282,  325 

Botanical  Gazette,  quoted     .   .    n 

Bottle-grafting 112,  132 

Bottom  heat  for  cuttings    ...    53 

for  seeds 8 

Botryanthus 275 

Bouvardia  cuttings 61 

Bowstring  Hemp 315 

Boxberry 238 

Bradley,  quoted  . 77 

Brake,  Bracken 306 

Bramble 313 

Brassica  oleracea 194,  261 

—species 276,  329 

Broad  Bean 334 

Broad-leaved  China  Fir  ...      220 
Bromeliacese      .    .  186,  191,  298,  328 

Broom,  Scotch 222 

Brush  screen 5 

Bryophyllum 70 

Buckthorn,  Sea 253 

Budded  trees 148 

Budding 94 

Budd,  Professor,  quoted     ...    74 

Bud-grafting 79 

Bugle 163 

-Uly 333 

Bulbels 27,  60 

Bulblet .  30,  60 


Page 

Bulbs 26 

Burbidge,  F.  W.,  quoted   .   .  84,  92 

Burseraceae 181,  189,  193 

Butterfly      -.36 

Butternut 201,  259 

Bitter  Vetch 287 

Button-wood 204 

— Snake-root 265 

—tree 215 

Cabbage,  leaf  cuttings     .   .       .70 

Cactaceae  .   .          194,  231, 

282,  294,  295,  297,  310 
Cactus  cuttings    ....     60,  65,  67 

—grafting 128 

Cselestina 163 

Calampelis 229 

Calceolaria,  sowing 20 

Calico-bush 261 

California  Poppy 232 

Calipers .      143 

Callistemma 197 

Callus  55 

Calycanthaceae 198,  209 

Caltrops,  Water 328 

Cambium 78 

Cambogia 238 

Camellia  cuttings 65 

— graftage  76 

Campanulaceae      .   .   .  161,  199,  221, 

222,  287,  298,  300,  308,  328 

Campanula  Rapunculus     .   .     308 

Camphor-tree 199 

Canary-bird  Flower 329 

Candleberry 277 

Canellacese 199 

Canna 33,  34 

— treatment  of  seeds 18 

Cape  Primrose 323 

Caper 200 

Capparidaceae 200,  212 

Caprifoliacese 157,  226, 

266,  268,  314,  325,  332 

Caprifolium      268 

Carnation  cuttings 65,  66 

—layering 38 


352 


INDEX. 


Page 

Carrion  Flower 321 

Carrot,  seed  tests 10 

Carthamus  tinctorius 314 

Caryophyllaceae 175,  200, 

249,  268,  299,  315,  318,  325 

Castalia 280 

Castor  Bean 311 

Casuarineae 202 

Cayenne 295 

Cedar,  Bastard 203 

—Japan 219 

Celastracese 202,  203,  276 

Celt  ry,  seed  tests   . 10 

—sowing 4,  22 

Cellars     143 

Centaury       232 

— American 313 

Cercis  Japonica 68 

Cereus,  species 194 

Chaerophyllutn  bulbosum  .  .   .  208 

Chaste-tree 333 

Chauviere's  oven 47 

Cheiranthus  Cheiri 333 

Chenopodiacese    .  184,  189,  282,  321 

Cherry,  dwarfing 147 

—effect  on  land 140 

—root  cuttings        .......    61 

—stock,  height  for    ....  146,  147 

China  Root 319 

Chinese  layering       40 

—Sacred  Lily 277 

Chip-budding 107 

Chisels 119 

Chocolate-tree 327 

Choko 317 

Christmas  Rose 252 

Chrysanthemum 66 

— foeniculaceum 271 

— frutescens 271 

—grafting 78 

Cichorium  Endivia 230 

— Intybus 208 

Cineraria,  sowing 20 

Cion-budding 116 

—grafting  . 79 


Page 

Cion-cutting 107 

Circumposition 40 

Cistacese  211,  251 

Citrullus  vulgaris 333 

Citrus  fruits,  stocks  for  ....    76 

— Aurantium 282 

— Decumana 304 

—Japonica 262 

— Umetta 266 

— Medica 212 

var.  acris      266 

var.  I,imon 264 

— species 283 

— trifoliata 76,  161 

Cives .209 

Classification  of  graftage  ...    79 

Cleft-grafting         118 

Climate  and  graftage 75 

Clintonia 213,  228 

Cloche 44 

Cloth  screens 6 

Club-moss 269 

Cob-nut 217 

Cocoanut  fiber  for  seeds     ...    20 
Coco  Plum         ....       ...  210 

Cocos  nucifera 214 

Coffee-tree     214 

Cohosh,  Blue 203 

Coleuses     . 65,  66 

Collodion  for  wounds  ....     138 
Color  modified  by  graftage  .  .    76 

Compass-plant 318 

Combretaceae 215,  326 

Comf  rey 62 

Commelinacese     .  215,  226,  328,  336 

Compositae     .   .   .  159,  162,  163,  166, 

169,  176,  177,  178,  185,. 

188,  190,  196,  197,  201,  202, 

208,  209,  210,  211,  2l6,  217,  222, 

223, 228, 229, 230, 233, 234, 238, 239, 
248, 249, 251, 252, 257, 263, 264, 265, 
271,276, 287, 299, 313, 314, 316, 317, 

318,  320,  322,  325,  326,  331,  334,  336 

Cone  Head 323 

—flower 313 


INDEX. 


353 


Page 
Coniferse     15?,  i?5,  197, 

203.  205,  219,   220,  222,  236, 

240,  252, 260, 262, 297,  298, 299, 
303, 306, 309, 316, 317, 326, 327, 328 

Conifer  cuttings 57>  64 

—grafting "5 

Convolvulacese 176,  198, 

215,  257,  279,  324 

Coquito  Palm       259 

Coral-tree       232 

Coriandrum  sativum 216 

Cork  for  seeds 20 

—tree 296 

Cormels 31 

Conns 31 

Cornacese     .   .  179,  185,  216,  238,  280 

Cornell  Exp.  Sta.,  quoted  .   .  9,  23, 

in,  117.  139,  148,  174 

Corn,  fertility  in 140 

Corypha 205 

Cottonwood 3°4 

Cow-dung  for  seeds 20 

Cow-itch 275 

Cow  Parsley 252 

— Parsnip 252 

Cowslip,  American 228 

Crabs  as  stocks 76,  170 

Crakeberry 230 

—Portugal 216 

Crambe  maritima 317 

Crandall,  C.  S.,  quoted     ....    88 

Crape  Myrtle 262 

Crassulacese    .  192,  217,  218,  261,  317 
Cress,  American  or  Upland  .   .  182 

—Curled 294 

Crocus 31 

— autumn 214 

— sativus 314 

Crosswort 219 

Crowberry 216,  230 

Crown-grafting 107,  129 

Crowns 32,  33 

Cruciferse    ....  165,  167,  174,  179, 

182,  194,  200,  218,  225,  228, 

232,  252,  254,  256,  261,  268,  270, 

272,  294,  308,  311,  317,  329,  33L  333 


Page 
Cryptomeria  Japonica    ....   64 

Cubeb 299 

Cucullaria 333 

Cucumis  Anguria 239 

— Melo 273 

—sativus 219 

Cucurbitacese 158,  192, 

219,  239,  242,  268, 
272,  273,  274,  306,  317,  321,  329,  333 

Cucurbita  Pepo 242 

—species 306.321 

Cupuliferae 164,  186. 

201,  208,  209,  233,  287,  307 

Curled  Cress     294 

Currant  cuttings    ....  55,  5^,  $3 

Currants,  by  tips 36 

Cuttage 44 

Cutting-bench 52 

—grafting 131 

Cuttings 44-72 

Cutting  side-graft n6 

Cuttings  as  stocks no 

Cycad  truncheons 65 

Cycadacese  .   .  205,  221,  227,  230,  335 

Cynara  Scolymus 176 

Cyperacese 200,  221,  289 

Cyrillacese 222 

Cyrtopodium 296 

Dahlia 32 

—grafting 129 

Dahlias,  dwarf 148 

Dame's  Violet 252 

Damping-off 23,  54 

Darwin,  quoted 77,  87,  91 

Date  Plum 227 

Datiscacese 224 

Delphinium  seeds 8 

Dendrobium  Phalsenopsis    .   .  286 

Depth  to  sow  seeds 21 

Desert  Willow      209 

Deutzia  cuttings 68 

Dewberry 35 

Dianthus  barbatus 325 

Diapensiaceae 238 

Diervilla 67 


354 


INDEX 


Page 
Dilleniaceae  .  .  ....  199,  227 

Dioscoreacese 227,  326 

Diospyros  Kaki 295 

— Virginiana 295 

Dipsacese 316 

Dish-cloth  Gourd 268 

Disocactus 297 

Distance  apart  for  trees  ....  146 

Dittany 226 

Division 32,  58 

Dog's-tooth  Violet 232 

Dorcoceras  181 

Double-grafting 133 

Double-working 133 

Doucin  stock 148 

Downing,  quoted 77 

Dracaena  61 

Dragon's  Head  228 

Dressing  of  stocks 96 

Droseracese 227,  229 

Duck's  Foot  303 

Dwarfing 73,  74,  147 

Dwarf  Pears 62 

Ebenacese 227,  295 

Ebony.  Mountain 183 

Elseagnacese 229,  253,  318 

Elichrysum 251 

Elm 65 

Elephant's  Foot 326 

Empetracese 204,  216,  230 

Endive,  seed  tests 10 

Ensilage  Corn  .  140 

Entomosporium  maculatum  .  291 

Epacridaceae 167,  179,  230 

Equestrian  Star 253 

Ericaceae 167,  175, 

180,  184,  197,  202,  213, 

218,  230,  231,  238,  261,  263,  264, 

265,  267,  269,  287,  306,  310,  330, 334 

Eruca  sativa  311 

Ervums 264 

Eryngo .  232 

Euohorbiaceae 158,  163, 

193,  202,  210,  214,  233, 
259,  271,  297,  3°3,  3",  322 


^age- 
Euphorbia  cuttings 65 

Evergreen  cuttings 57,  64 

Everlastings 251 

Exotic  seeds     19 

Fadyenia 238 

Fagopyrum  esculentum     .   .   ,  192 

— Tataricum 192 

False  Solomon's  Seal 319 

Fan  Palm 267 

Felicia 162,  234 

Fenzlia 239 

Fern,  Flowering 287 

—Hartford 269 

Ferns,  plantlets  of 30 

— sowing 24 

Fertility  of  lands 139 

Ficoideae 273 

Ficus  Carica 236 

— cuttings 65 

— elastica 41 

Field,  The,  quoted 83 

Fig,  Marigold 273 

Filices 224,  226, 

234,  269,  287,  300,  304,  306 

Filing  seeds 18 

Fir,  Broad-leaved  China     .    .   .  220 

First-class  trees 143 

Five-Finger 305 

Flavor  modified  by  graftage    .    76 

Flax  I,ily 297 

Fleur-de-t,is 236 

Flowering  Fern 287 

— Rush     193 

Flower  of  the  West  Wind  ...  336 

Flute-budding 106 

Foeniculum 234 

Formation  of  roots 55 

Forsyth's  cutting-pot 51 

French  Mulberry 196 

Frenela 197 

Fringe  Flower 316 

Fruit-grafting 131 

Fuchsias 65 

Fuller's  Herb 315 

Fumariacese 161,  217,  226 


INDEX. 


355 


Page 

Fungus  in  cellars 145 

Funkia 33 

Galeopsis 321 

Garden,  quoted 83,  84 

Garden  and  Forest,  quoted  .  .  74 
Gardener's  Chronicle,  quoted  .  29 
Garland  Flower,  Indian  .  .  .251 

Gauging 143 

Geneva  seed  tests n 

Gentian 239 

Gentianaceae  .  209,  232,  239,  273,  313 

Geraniaceae 180,  181, 

232,  239,  287,  294,  329 
Geraniums    ....  65,  66,  67,  70,  72 

Germander 326 

German  seed  tester 13 

Germinators 18 

Gesneracese    .    .       .    .  159,  161,  181, 
226,  239,  261,  277,  308,  314, 318, 323 

Giant  Bellwort 287 

Ginep 273 

Girdles,  repairing     129 

Girdling  layers 38 

Gladiolus 31 

Glechoma       278 

Globe  Flower 329 

— Mallow 320 

—Ranunculus 329 

-Thistle 229 

Glory  Pea 213 

Gloxinia 60,  72 

—grafting 129 

— seeds 21 

Glyptostrobus 326 

Goat's  Rue 238 

Gnetaceae       230 

Golden  Bell 236 

—Chain 262 

—Drop 282 

Goldfussia 323 

Goldy-Locks 210 

Goober 175 

Goodenovieae 316 

Gooseberries,  by  tips 36 

—mound  layering 39 


Page 
Gooseberry,  Barbadoes  ....  295 

—cuttings 57,  63 

— Otaheite 210 

Gossypium 217 

Gourd,  Dish-cloth 268 

—Snake 329 

Grades  of  trees 142 

Graftage 73-156 

Graft-hybrid 77 

Grafting 107 

Gramineae 163,  177, 

181,  190,  191,  195, 
249,  270,  274,  296,  320,  324,  336 

Grape  layering 37 

Grapes,  cuttings  of 53,  55, 

57,  63,  64 

—grafting in,  ii25 

116,  117,  121,  132 

Grass  of  Parnassus 289 

Grass-tree 335 

Green  Briar 319 

Green -wood  cuttings 65 

Ground  Cherry 297 

Groundsel 317 

Gutta-Percha  tree 258 

Guttiferae     ....  198,  213,  238,  270 

Habranthus 336 

Haemodoraceae 249,  315 

Halorageae 249 

Hamamelideac,  192,  237,  250,  266,  289 
Hardiness  and  graf  tage  ....  75 
Hard-wood  cuttings  ....  •  .  62 

Hare's  Ear 193 

Hartford  Fern •    .  269 

Hatchet  Cactus 294 

Haws,  treatment  of  seeds  .   .    .    18 

H-budding 106 

Healing  of  wounds 126 

Hedge  Bindweed 198 

—Mustard 232 

—Nettle 321 

Heeling-in      146 

Heel  of  cutting 55 

Helianthus  tuberosus 177 

Heliotrope 66,  251 


INDEX. 


Page 

Hellebore,  Black 252 

—White 331 

Hemerocallis 33 

Hemp,  Bowstring 315 

Hen  and  Chickens 32 

Herbaceous-grafting 130 

Herb  of  Grace 313 

Heron's  Bill 232 

Hews,  A.  H.  &  Co.,  mentioned  .  14 

Hibiscus  esculentus 280 

Hicoria  Pecan 293 

Hickories,  cuttings 58 

Hickory-nuts,  treatment  of  .   .    17 

Higginsia 253 

Hoit's  grafting  device     .   .   .   .120 

Holly,  Japan 287 

— Mountain 278 

Hollyhock,  grafting 129 

Holly  seeds,  treatment  of  .  .   .    17 

Hoop  Withy .  311 

Honey  Plant 255 

Honeysuckle 174 

Hop-tree 306 

Horned  Rampion 298 

Horse  Bean 334 

Horse-radish  sets 57,  61 

Hortensia 256 

Hoskins'  wax 138 

House-leek 32 

House  plants 65,  67 

Husk  Tomato 297 

Husmann,  George,  quoted    .    .  246 

Hyacinth 255 

— cuttings 60 

— propagation 28 

Hyacinthus  candicans     ....  238 

Hydrangea 67,  68 

Hydrophyllaceae 278,  296 

Hypericaceae 177,  256 

Hyssopus  officinalis 256 

Ice  Plant 273 

Ilicineae 257,  278 

Illairea 267 

Ipomoea  Batatas 324 

— grafting 129 


Page 

Impatiens  Balsamina 181 

— Sultani 181 

Inarching 79,  81,  132 

Indian  Cup 315 

— Currant 325 

—Garland  Flower 251 

Indigo 257 

Influence  of  stock  and  cion  .   .    74 

Inlaying 117 

Inula  Helenium 230 

Iridaceae 168,  169,  176, 

180,  185,  211,  219, 

221,   235,   237,  240,   252,  258, 

278,  316,  319,  320,  327,  329,  333 

Ironweed 331 

Ironwood 287 

Ivory-tree 334 

Jacobaea 317 

Jalapa 274 

Janipha 271 

Japan  Cedar 219 

Japanese  Arbor- Vitse 309 

—Rose 198 

Japan  Holly 287 

Japonica 198 

Jasminanthes 322 

Jasmine .259 

— Box 296 

Jessamine 259 

Juglandaceae  .   .   .  253,  259,  293,  306 

Juncaceae 260,  335 

June  budding 103 

June-struck  cuttings 67 

Juniper 260 

Junipers,  cuttings 64 

Kalmia  seeds 20 

Keeping  qualities  of  fruit     .   .    75 

Kidney  Vetch 169 

Kier's  layering-racks 42 

Kinds  of  grafting 80 

Knaurs 64 

Knight,  on  sowing 2 

Knives 97,  in,  119 

Knot-Grass 304 

Knot- Weed 304 


INDEX. 


357 


Page 

Labiatse 163,  181, 

183,  195,  203,  214,  228, 

254,  256,  263,  264,  278,  294,  295. 

297,  313,  314, 315,  320,  321,  326,  32? 

Labrador  Tea 263 

Lace  Bark 262 

Lactuca  sativa 264 

Ladies'  Ear  Drop 237 

Lady's  Mantle     163 

—Slipper 222 

—Smock 200 

Lagenaria 242 

Lands,  management  of  ....  139 

Lantanas 7° 

Larch 262 

Lath  screen 5 

Lauraceae     .  .  199,  263,  266,  295,  315 

Lavender       263 

Lead  Plant 166 

Leadwort 3°3 

Leaf-blight 291 

Leaf  Cactus 297 

— cuttings 60,  70 

— grafting 131 

Leather  Leaf 202 

Lecoq's  oven 48 

Leguminosse  .   .      158,  161,  162,  163, 

166,  160,  170,  175,179, 

182,  183,  191,  195,  196,  200, 

201,  202,  205,  212,  213,  215,  216, 
219,  222,  223,  228,  232,  234,  238,  240, 
241,  249,  250,  251 ,  255,  257,  26l,  262, 
263.  264,  267,  268,  272,  274,  275,  282, 
287,  288,  289,  290,  295,  296,  303,  306, 

311,  318,  320,  324,  325,  331,  332,  334 

Lemon  Verbena 165 

Lentibulariaceae     299 

Leopard's  Bane 228 

Lepidium  sativum    ....  218,  294 

Lepismium 310 

Levisticum  officinale 268 

Layerage 35 

Ligularia 317 

Light,  and  germination  ....     8 
Lilac,  cuttings 67 


Page 

Lilacs 33 

Liliaceae 162,  163,  164,  169, 

178,  183,  186,  188,  190,  192,  193, 
197, 198,  209,  213,  214,  215,  216,  224, 
227,  231,  232, 247,  238,  240, 252,  255, 
261,262,  264,  265,  267,  274,  275,  277, 
281, 287,  289,  297,  304,  306,  311,  313, 
316,  318,  319,  329,  330,  331,  335,  336 

Lilium  auratum 27 

— candidum 27 

— pardalinum 27 

— speciosum 27 

Lily 265 

—African 162 

—Blackberry 185 

Lily-of-the- Valley 33 

Lily  propagation 27,  28 

—Thorn 203 

—tiger 30 

—Triplet 329 

Lime,  Spanish 273 

Limits  of  graf  tage 77 

Linaceae 232,  266,  309 

Linkia 295 

Lion's  Ear     264 

—Foot 264 

—Tail 264 

Loasaceae 188,  267,  273 

Lobeliaceae 228,  267 

Locust  seeds,  treatment  of  .  17,  18 
Lodeman,  quoted  .  in,  117,  148,  184 

Loganiaceae 239,  267 

Loosestrife 269 

Loranthaceae 332 

Love-in-a-Mist 279 

Lungwort 273 

Lupine 268 

Lycopodiaceae 269,  317 

Lycopodiums 24 

Lycopersicum  esculentum    .  .  328 
Lythracese  .  .  220,  262,  263,  269,  304 

Madwort 165 

Magnoliaceae     205,  228, 

257,  260,  267,  269,  273,  316 
Mahaleb  Cherry 147 


353 


INDEX. 


Page 

Mahalebs 206 

Mallet  cuttings 55 

—for  grafting 126 

Mallow,  Globe 320 

—Poppy 197 

Malpighiaceae     ....  194,  270,  322 

Malvaceae 158,  165,  189, 

197,  217,  231,  252,  254,  270,  280,  320 
Mammee  Apple  ........  270 

Man-and-Wife 32 

Management  of  nurseries    .   .  138 

Manetti  Rose 96 

Mangifera  Indica 271 

Manna  tree 163 

Manuring  nursery  lands    .   .    .  139 

Maple  cuttings 58 

Maples,  grafting 115 

Marigold,  Pot 196 

Marrubium  vulgare 254 

Marvel  of  Peru 274 

Matrimony  Vine 269 

May-apple 33 

Mazzards 206 

Medick 272 

Melastomaceae 176,  186, 

190,  221,  263,  272,  320 

Meliaceae 203,  273,  315 

Melissa  officinalis      181 

Menispermaceae    .   .    .  211,  213,  273 

Mentha  piperita 294 

— Pulegium 294 

— viridis      .  320 

Mespilus  Germanica  ...  272 

Mice,  to  protect  from 146 

Micropiper 294 

Milk  Vetch    .    . 179 

Milkwort 304 

Mock  Privet 296 

Moisture,  for  seeds i 

Mold  in  cell  irs 145 

Monkey-flower 274 

Moonflower  seeds 18 

Morellos 207 

Morren,  quoted      77 

Morus  alba in,  275 


Morus  Japonica 


Page 
90 


—  rubra     ........  90,  in,  275 

Moss  for  seeds    .......  20,  21 

Mottet,  mentioned    ......    23 

Mound  layering  ........    39 

Mountain  Ash  for  pear  stock  .    74 
--  seeds   ...........    17 

—Ebony  ...........  X83 

—Fringe  ............  n5i 

—Holly     .   .       ........      278 

Mulberry     .......  90,111,116 

—French     ...........  196 

—Paper    ..........  191 

Musa  paradisiaca  .......  182 

—  Sapientum     .........  182 

Musk  Plant    ..........  274 

Muslin  for  tying     .......  103 

—  screens     ...........     6 

Mustard,  Hedge  ........  232 

Myconia  .   .  .......      308 

Myrica  asplenifolia  ......  215 

Myricaceae     ........  115,  277 

Myristicaceae     ........  277 

Mj  robalan  plum    .......  148 

—stocks  ........  174  291,301 

Myrrh  ......   .......  277 

Myrsinaceae  ..........  175 

Myrtaceae     ........  181,  183, 

197,  198,  200,  201,  232,  249,  272,  277 
Myrtle     ..........  277,  332 

Naiadaceae    ........  170,  287 

Nasturtium  Armoracia   .   .    .   .  254 

—  officinale     ..........  333 

Natural  graft  .........    82 

Navelwort  ...........  217 

Nelumbium  ..........  278 

—seeds        ...........    18 

Nepenthacese    .........  278 

Nepeta  Cataria    ........  203 

Nettle,  Stingless     .......  298 

Neumann's  cutting-pot  ....    51 

N.  Y.  Exp.  Sta.,  quoted  (note)  .  139 
N.  Y.  Exp.  Sta.,  seed  testing    .    T  i 
New  Zealand  Flax        .....  297 


INDEX. 


359 


Page 

Nitrate  of  Soda 142 

Nitrogen  in  lauds     ...  139,  142 
Norway  Spruce  stocks    .   .  157,  298 

Nursery  lands     139 

Nut-trees,  cuttings 58 

Nyctaginaceae   .   .    .   .  158,  189,  274, 
Nymphaeaceae    .   .  194,  278,  280,  332 

Oakesia 330 

Oaks,  cuttings  of 58 

Ochnacese 280 

Ocymum  Basilicum 183 

— minimum 183 

Offsets 32 

Olacinese 280 

Oleaceae 209,  236,  237, 

259,  265,  281,  287,  296,  325 

Oleander 65,  66,  67 

Olibanum  tree 189 

Olive,  kuaurs  on 64 

—Wild 229 

Onagraceae 212,  237,  280 

Onion,  top 30 

— seed  tests    ...       10 

Orchidaceae 158,  159,  160, 

161, 162,  168,  170,  182,  183,  188, 190, 
191, 193,  195,  198,  203,  215,  222,  225, 
227, 230,  262,  268,  272,  274,  280,  281, 
284,  296,  315,  321,  327,  328,  331,  336 

Orchids 60 

— seeds 20 

Otaheite  Apple  or  Plum     .   .      321 

—Gooseberry 210 

Othonna 287 

Own-rooted  trees    .   .   .87,  no,  153 

Palay 334 

Palmaceae 159,  175, 

179,  181,  189,  190,  195, 

201,  205,  214,  224,  227,  233  239, 

259, 261,  265,  267,  271,  288,  298, 300, 

305,  306,  308,  313,  327,  328,  331,  333 

Pandanaceae 237,  289 

Papaveraceae 175,  188, 

230,  232,  272,  289,  311,  315 

Papver  seeds 8 

Paper  Mulberry 191 


Page 

Paradise  stock 73,  74,  148 

layering 39 

Parnassus,  Grass  of 289 

Parrot  Beak 213 

Parsley,  Cow 252 

Parsnip,  Cow 252 

Passiflora  edulis     242 

Passifloraceae 200,  2^2,  290 

Passion  Flower 290 

Pastinaca  sativa 289 

Pea,  Glory 213 

— seed  tests 10 

Peach,  stocks  for 74 

Peaches,  budding 103 

Peach- pits,  treatment  of  .  .   .  ,17 

Peach  root  cuttings 61 

Pear,  Alligator  or  Avocado   .      295 

— root  cuttings 61 

— seeds,  importing 19 

Pears,  dwarf 74,  133 

— manuring 140,  141 

—stocks  for 75,  76,  77 

Pea-tree 318 

Siberian 200 

Pedalineae 271,  318 

Pegging  down 37 

Peninsula  Hort.  Soc.,  quoted  .    82 

Peony,  grafting 128,  129 

Pereskia  species,  stocks     .   .   .231 

Pfeiffera     310 

Phaenocodon 262 

Phalangium 169 

Phoenix  dactylifera 224 

Phosnicophorum 179 

Phosphoric  acid  in  lands    .   .   .  139 

Phyllocereus 297 

Phytolaccaceae 298,  311 

Picotia 281 

Piece-root-grafting 149 

Pieron,  mentioned 131 

Pilophora 271 

Pin-cushion  Flower 316 

Pine 299 

—dwarfing 148 

Pine-apple 60 


36o 


INDEX. 


Page 

Piperaceae 294,  299 

Pipping 171 

Pips 33 

Pisum  sativum 290 

Pitch  for  waxes 136 

Pittosporaceae 186,  300 

Planer-tree       300 

Plane-tree,  knaur 64 

Plantaginaceae 300 

Plantain  I^ily .238 

Plastics 134 

Platanacese 300 

Plate-budding 105 

Platyzamia 227 

Plum,  Coco 210 

— dwarfing 148 

Plumbaginacese  176,  303,  322 

Plums  for  peach  stocks  ...       74 

—manuring 140,  141 

Podophyllum 33 

Poiretia 255 

Poke 298 

Polemoniaceae    ...       .     200,  213, 
267,  297,  303 

Polygalaceae 262,  304 

Polygonaceae 213,  275, 

304,  310,  313,  320 
Polygonum  Sachalinense  .   .      313 

Polypody 304 

Pomme  Blanche 306 

Pontederia  azurea     229 

Pontederiacese 229,  304 

Poplar 304 

Poppy,  California 232 

— mallow 197 

Porrum 164 

Portugal  Crakeberry 216 

Portulacaceae  ....     195,  265,  304 

Potash  in  lands 139 

—to  clean  seeds 18 

Potato 32 

Potatoes,  cuttings 59,  60 

Pot-layering 40 

—Marigold 196 

Prairie  Clover 295 


Page 

Preparation  of  seeds 15 

Prickly  Comfrey 62 

Primrose 305 

—Cape 323 

Primula  Auricula 180 

Primulaceae 167,  180, 

217,  221,  228,  254,  269,  305,  319 

Primula  seeds 21 

Privet,  Mock 296 

Prong-budding 105 

Propagating-frames     45 

Prosartes    227 

Proteacese    .   .  182,  248,  250,  261,  295 

Pruning  trees       146 

Prunus  Amygdalus 164 

— Americana 76 

— Armeniaca 174 

— Avium 206 

— Besseyi 207 

— Cerasus 206 

— dasycarpa 174 

— domestica 76 

— Japonica 164 

— Mahaleb 206 

— Mume 174 

— Pennsylvanica 207 

— Persica 290 

— Pissardi 76 

— pumila 207 

— Simonii 303 

— species 300 

Pseudo  bulbs 60 

Ptarmica .  159 

Puccoon,  Red 315 

Punica  Granatum 304 

Purslane 304 

Putty-Root 170 

Pyrus  Cathayensis 307 

— communis 291 

Pyrus  Cydonia 307 

— Germanica 272 

—Japonica 3°7 

— Malus 170 

— Sinensis 291 

Quaking  Grass i&> 


INDEX. 


361 


Page 
Quince     .   .  62,  73,  74,  77,  78,  97,  133 

Quinces,  layering 39 

Quince  stocks 292 

Raffia 101 

Ragweed 317 

Ragwort 287 

Ranunculaceae 160,  161, 

168,174,  179,  198,  211,  312,  215,  225, 

231,  252,  279,  288,  308,  326,  329,  335 

Ranunculus,  Globe 329 

Raphanus  sativus 308 

Raphia  Ruffia 101 

Rapunculus 298 

Raspberry 35 

Rattle-box 219 

Recipes  for  wax 134 

Red  Puccoon 315 

Redwood 317 

Reed     177 

--Mace 330 

Regermination 9 

Resedaceae 309 

Resting  of  land 140,  141 

Retinospora  cuttings 64 

Rhacoma 276 

Rhamnaceae 186,  203, 

255,  260,  288,  310 

Rhizomes 32 

R.  I.  Exp.  Sta.,  seed  testing     .    14 
Rhododendron,  grafting    .   .   .115 

—seeds 20 

Rhubarb     33 

—cuttings 6r 

Ribes  aureum 220 

— Grossularia 241 

— nigrum 220 

— oxyacanthoides 241 

— rubrum 220 

Rice,  Indian  or  Wild    ....     336 

Ring-budding  .   .       106 

Ringing  layers 38 

Roberts,  quoted 139 

Rock  Cress 174 

Rock-foil 316 

Root  cuttings 57,  60 


Page 

Root-grafted  trees 148 

—grafting     ....  107,  109,  132,  148 

Rooting  of  trees 150 

Root-tip ,  .   .  35,  36 

Roots  on  cuttings 55 

Rootstocks 32 

Rosaceae 161,  163, 

164, 166,  170, 174, 187, 193,  206,  210, 
217, 218,  225,  233,  240, 260,  261,  266. 
272,280,  290,  291,  297,  300,  305,  306, 
307, 308,  312,  313,  321,  332, 333,  334 

Rose 312 

—Acacia 311 

—Bay 310 

—Moss 304 

—seeds,  treatment  of 17 

—stock 96 

Roses 33 

—cuttings 67,  68,  69 

— graftage 76 

Rosin-plant 318 

Rosmarinus  officinalis    ....  313 
Rowell,  William  M.,  quoted    .  283 

Rubiaceae 161,  178,  189, 

190, 193,  203,  209,  211,  214,  219,  238, 
250,  253,  255,  258,  268,  270,  279,  298 

Rubus  Canadensis 225 

— occidentalis 308 

— phcenicolasius 334 

— strigosus 308 

— trivialis 225 

— villosus 187 

— vitifolius 225 

Rumex 320 

Runners 35 

Rush,  flowering 193 

Rutaceae 161,  162,  179, 

189, 197,  209,  212,  226,  231,  241, 

262,  264,  266,  282,  304,  306,  313, 335 

Saccharum  officinarum  ....  324 

Saccolabium 161,  296 

Sacred  Bean 278 

Saddle-grafting .  113 

Saghalin     313 

Salicaceae 304,  314 


362 


INDEX. 


Page 

Sallow 314 

— Thorn 253 

Salmia 315 

Salsify,  Black 316 

Salt-tree 250 

Salvia  officinalis 314 

Sandal-tree 315 

Sand  Myrtle 264 

—Verbena 158 

Sandwort 175 

Sapindacese     159,  162, 

262,  273,  278,  321,  335 

Sapotaceae 210,  258,  315 

Sarcocarpon 260 

Sarcogonum 275, 

Sarraceniacese 224,  315 

Satin  Flower 379 

Satureia  hortensia 315 

— montana      315 

Saxifragaceae         1 60,  178, 

220,  224,  225,  237,  241, 
252,  256,  258,  289,  296,  311,  316,  327 

Saxifrage 316 

Scalding  seeds 17 

Scandix  cerefolium 208 

Scheeria 159 

Scitamineae 182,  196,  199, 

217,  220,  251,  271,  275,  323,  336 
Schaefell's  healing  paint    ...  138 

Schoenoprasum 164 

Sclarea 314 

Screens,  for  seeds 5 

Scrophulariaceae 165,  1 68, 

169, 191, 196,  205,  226,  231,  239,  266, 
272,  274,  290,  294,  313,  314,  328,  331 

Sea  Buckthorn 253 

— Lavender 322 

—Pink 176,  322 

Seedage  i 

Seeds 1-25 

—aquatic 21 

—cleaning 18 

— depth  to  sow 21 

Alight  on 8 

•-moisture  f or  .  ,  .  .  .     x 


Page 

Seeds,  moss  for 20,  21 

—scalding 17 

— soil  for 20 

— sowing 20 

—stratifying 15 

— temperature  for 7 

— testing     9 

— transporting 19 

Seed-grafting 131 

Selaginellas 24 

Separation 26 

Serangium 274 

Serpentine  layering 37 

Shade  for  seeds 5,  6,  7 

Shield-budding 95 

— grafting 116 

Shin-leaf 306 

Shed  screens 6,  7 

Siberian  Crab 75,  76 

—  Pea-tree 200 

Side-graft 115,  116 

Silkweed 177 

Silver  fir     157 

—sand 54 

— weed     176 

Simarubaceae 163,  191,  307 

Sinapis  species 276 

Sium  Sisarum 319 

Skoke 298 

Slat  screens 6 

Slip 65 

Smoke  Vine 161 

Snake  Gourd 329 

—root,  Button 265 

Snowdrop  Tree 250 

Soaking  seeds 2,  3,  16,  17 

Soils,  adapting  to  by  graftage  .    74 

— for  cuttings 54 

Soil  for  seeds 20 

Soils,  management 139 

Solanaceae 179,  205, 

222,   229,   269,    270, 
279,  295,  296,  297,  304,  316,  319,  328 

Solanum  Melongena 229 

— tuberosum 304 


INDEX. 


363 


Page 
Solomon's  Seal,  False  319 
Southernwood     176,  334 
Sowbread   221 
Sowing  seeds    20 
Spanish  Lime  273 
Spawn  31 
Spencer,  Herbert,  quoted  ...    86 
Sphagnum  for  seeds     20 
Spinacia  oleracea   321 
Spireas    33,  69,  70 
Splice-grafting    113 
Spoke  298 
Spores,  sowing  21,  24 
Sprouting  chamber  14 
—  cups  1/1 

Sweet  Gale       

Page 

•  •  277 
.   .  266 
•  •   32 
•    •    59 
.    .198 
.    -165 
.    .296 
-   .325 
•   -325 
.    -326 
.   .326 
.    -326 
.    .  223 
.   .  138 

—  fiurn  .   .          

—Potato  
cuttings  
Sweet-scented  Shrub    .   . 
Verbena    
Syringa  (Philadelphus)  . 
Taccacese    
Tamarind  

Tamariscineae  
Tamarisk   
Tanacetum  vulgare  .   .   . 
Taraxicum  officinale    .   . 
Tar  for  wounds  

Tear  Tree  

.     .  222 

—of  trees    
Spruce,  dwarfing    .   . 

M7 
148 

Telanthera  Bettzichiana 
Temperature  for  seeds   . 
Ternstroemiacese  
201,  242, 
Testing  of  seeds     .... 
Texas  Exp.  Sta.,  quoted 
Thistle,  Globe  
Thomas  knife  

.     .165 

•   •     7 
1  60,  198, 
323.  326 
•    •      9 
.    .105 
.    .229 

.     .  I2O 

Spurge 

2H 

St.  Domingo  Apricot 
St.  John's  Bread     .    . 
St  Peter's  Wort 

.     ....  270 
2OI 
325 

Stag's-Horn  Fern  .   . 
Starwort  
Statistics  of  nurseries 
Stem  cuttings  .... 
—grafting  
Sterculiaceae    
263 
Stick  of  buds    .... 
Stingless  Nettle  .   .   . 
Storax  
Storing  of  trees  .   .   . 
Stork's  Bill    
Stramonium  

WO 

I?8 

94 
62 
107 
.   .  158,  261, 
269,  322,  327 
97 
298 
324 
M3 
294 
224 

Thorn,  for  pear  stock  .   . 
—seeds,  treatment  of  ... 
Throatwort    
Thuya  cuttings   
Thymelaeaceae  .   .  223,  227, 
Thymus  vulgaris    .... 

•   •    77 
•  17,  18 
.    -328 
.    .    64 
262,  323 
•    •  327 

Thyrse  Flower    
Tiger  Flower   
Tiliaceae    248, 
Tip 

•    .327 
•    -327 
320,  328 

•3C        -36 

Toadflax 

266 

Stratification 

1C 

Tomato,  cleaning  seeds  . 
—  seed  test 

.   .    18 
10 

String  for  tying  .   .   . 
—  waxed  
Strawberry  Tomato  . 
Straw,  for  heeling-in 
Stub  
Styracacese  
Suckers 

.   .  ioo,  103 

137 
297 
....   I46 

.   .   .    .  118 
250,  324,  325 
....    60 
....  142 
....  145 

.    .         .  215 

—  Tree,  of  Jamaica    .   .   .   . 
Tongueing     
Tools  for  grafting     .  .   .   . 
Toothpicks  for  cuttings  .   . 
Toothwort  
Top-grafting    
Tornelia  

.     .  222 

•     •     38 
119,  I2O 
.     .     67 
.     .  225 
107,   122 
•     -274 
.     .     22 
.     .  11A. 

Sulphate  of  ammonia 
Sulphur  for  fungus    . 
Sweet  Fern    . 

Tracy  planter  
Traeroooaon  oorrifolius  . 

364 


INDEX. 


106 
329 

220 

10 


Page 
Transportation  of  seeds    ...    19 

Treed  lands 140 

Tree  Tomato  of  Jamaica  .   .   .222 
Trigonella  Foenum-Graecum    .  234 

Trimming  trees 146 

Triplet  I,ily 329 

Tropical  Almond 326 

Trumpet  I<eaf 315 

Tsuga  Canadensis 252 

Tubers 32 

Tuber  cuttings 59 

Tubular-budding    .... 

Tulip 

Turmeric 

Turnip,  seed  tests  .... 

Turtle-head 205 

Twig-budding 105 

Tying  of  buds 100 

Typhaceae 330 

Umbelliferae 160,  168, 

193.  203,  208,  216,  219, 
226,  232,  234,  252,  268,  277,  289,  319 

Umbrella  Pine 316 

—tree 269 

Unions,  of  grafted  plants  ...    87 

Upland  Cress 182 

Urticaceae 177,  191, 

200,   228,  235,  236, 
255,  269,  275,  298,  300,  330 

Vaccaria 315 

Vaccinium  macrocarpon    ...  218 

Valerian 330 

Valerianaceae 216,  330 

Valerianella 216 

Variegation  and  graf  tage  ...    77 

Variegations 62,  72 

Veneer-budding 106 

—grafting 113 

Veneer-graft  union 88 

Verbena,  I,emon 165 

Verbenaceae 165,  189, 

196,  201,  212,  262,  266,  331,  333 
Vermin,  to  protect  from     .   .   .  146 

Vervain 331 

Vetch,  Bitter 287 


Vetch,  Kidney 

—Milk 

Vetchling 

Viburnum,  dwarfs     .   .   .   . 

—layer     

— treatment  of  seeds  .   .   . 
Viburnums,  cuttings  of  .   . 

Vicia  Faba 

— sativa 

Violaceae 

Violet 

Virility  of  grafted  plants  . 

Viscaria 

Vitaceae 166, 

Vochysiaceae 

Wake-Robin     

Wall  Cress     

Walnut,  grafting 

Walnuts,  treatment  of    .   . 

Water  Bean 

—Caltrops 

— Chinquapin 

— I,ily  seeds 

— Plantain 

—Platter     

Waxberry 

Waxes 

Wax  Myrtle 

Waxing  the  wounds     .   .    . 

Weeping  trees 

Weigela     

Wendlandia 

Whip-graft  union 

— grafting 

Whistle-budding 

White  Hellebore 

Whitlow  Grass 

Whole-root-grafting     .   .   . 

Wild  Hyacinth 

— Rice 

Willow  cuttings 

Window-garden  plants  .   . 

Wintera 

Winter  Aconite 

— budding  


Page 

.169 
.  179 
.263 
.148 


•  17,  18 

•  •  55 

•  -334 

•  -331 
257,  332 

•  -332 
.  .  90 
.  .  268 

211,  242 

•  •  333 

•  -329 
.  .  174 
.  .  131 

.  .278 

.  .328 

.  .  278 

.  .  21 

.  .163 

•  -332 

•  •  325 

•  •  134 

•  •  277 
.  .  122 

•  •  73 
.  67,  68 

.  .213 


.  1 08 
.  106 

•331 
.  228 


.  -316 

•  -336 
•  55,  56 
.  65,  67 

.  .  228 

-  -  231 
.  .  105 


INDEX. 


365 


Page 

Yarrow  .  . 

Page 
.   .   .   .  159 

Wintergreen  
Winter  Olive  
Wolf's  Bane  
Wounds  waxes  for 

.   .238,316 
.    ...  229 
.    .    .    .  160 
J37 

Yews  from  cuttings  .  . 
Youtb-and  Old-Age  .  . 
Yucca  cuttings  .... 
Zea  Mays 

.   ...   64 
.   .   .   .336 
.   ...   65 
.   .     276 

Woundwort  
Wrightia  (Wallichia)  . 
Xvlosteum  . 

.    ...  321 

•    •••  333 
.268 

Zephyr  Flower  .... 
Zerumbet  
Zveroohvllaceae  . 

.   .   .   .336 
-   .   -   -336 

•  24&.  336 

CYCLOPEDIA  OF  AMERICAN 
HORTICULTURE 


Oct.     3.     Recitation,  Graftage; 

pp.    73-81.      (Prelimin- 
ary shrub  report.) 

Oct.     8.   'Lecture.     Oral  quiz  on 
practice  work. 

Oct.  10.  Recitation,  Graftage;  pp. 
81-94.  (Preliminary 
tree  report.) 

Oct.  15.     Lecture. 

Oct.  17.     Recitation,  Grafting; 

pp.   130-138. 
Oct.  22.     Lecture. 

Oct.  24.     Recitation,  Grafting; 

pp.   107-118. 
Oct.  29.     Lecture.     Oral  quiz  on 

practice  work. 
Oct.  31.     Recitation,  Grafting; 

pp.   118-130. 
Nov.     5.     Review. 

Nov.     7.     Mid-term  examination 

Nov.  13.     Lecture. 

Nov.  14.     Recitation,   Nursery 

Management;  pp. 

138-146. 
Nov.  19.     Lecture. 


Nov.  21.     Recitation,  Nursery 
Management;  pp. 
146-156. 

Final  report  on  an  herb. 
3.  Final  report  on  a  shrub. 
5.  Final  report  on  a  tree. 


14.  Dormant  wood   cuttings.     P< 

rooted  cuttings. 

15.  Individual  work. 

16.  Inspect  buds.     Transplant  s< 

Plant  out  annual  herbs. 

17.  Inspect  budded  roses,  apricc 

walnuts. 

18.  Graft    geraniums,    fuchsias. 

Inspect  inarching. 

19.  Inarch   potatoes  and   tomato 

inarch  citrus. 

20.  Inspect   grafts  and   inarchin 

Individual  work. 

21.  Divide  perennial  roots  and  1 

Inspect  grafts. 

22.  Make   apple   grafts  and   hee 

Inspect  inarching. 

23.  Make  grape  grafts  and  heel 

Plant  out  seedlings. 

24.  Individual  work. 

25.  Make  hardwood   cuttings   an 

26.  Plant  out   divided  roots,  set 

cuttings. 

27.  Transplant    young    bulbous 

frames.       Plant    apple    £ 
grafts. 

28.  Individual  work. 


29. 

30. 


Exhibition   of  individual  wo\ 
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L.  H.  Bailey's  Principles  of  Agriculture 1  25  nef 

W.  C.  Welborn's  Elements  of  Agriculture,.  Southern 

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E.  C.  Lodeman's  The  Spraying  of  Plants 1  25  net 

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I.  P.  Roberts'  The  Horse 1  25  net 

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Harry  Snyder's  Dairy  Chemistry 1  00  net 

W.   D.   Frost's    Laboratory  Guide   in   Elementary 

Bacteriology 1  00  net 

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On  Economics  and  Organization 

L.  H.  Bailey's  The  State  and  the  Farmer 1  25  net 

Henry  C.  Taylor's  Agricultural  Economics 1  25  net 

I.  P.  Roberts'  The  Farmer's  Business  Handbook   .  .  1  25  net 

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8.  E.  Sparling's  Business  Organization 1  25  net 

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Kate  V.  St.  Maur's  The  Earth's  Bounty 1  75  net 

On  Everything  Agricultural 

L.  H.  Bailey's  Cyclopedia  of  American  Agriculture? 
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Soils  and  Fertilizers 

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A  book  which  presents  in  a  concise  form  the  principles  of  soil  fer- 
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the  Committee  on  Methods  of  Teaching  Agriculture.  It  contains 
350  pages,  with  illustrations,  and  treats  of  a  great  variety  of  sub- 
jects, such  as  Physical  Properties  of  Soils;  Geological  Formation, 
etc.;  Nitrogen  of  the  Soil  and  Air;  Farm  Manures;  Commercial 
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This  book  gives  complete  directions  for  growing  all  vege- 
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Besides  a  description  of  each  plant,  its  habit,  value,  and  use, 
the  book  contains  detailed  cultural  directions,  covering  the 
soil,  planting  distances,  times  for  sowing,  thinning  and  trans- 
planting, fertilizing,  picking,  winter  protection,  renewal, 
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Cloth.     12mo.    Illustrated.    $1.75  net,  by  mail,  $1.88. 

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A  Self-supporting  Home 

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guineas,  rabbits,  cavies,  and  in  every  branch  of  husbandry  to  be  met  with  on 
the  small  farm." — Loui$ville  Courier-Journal. 

Cloth.  12mo.    Fully  illustrated  from  photographs. 
$1.75  net,  by  mail,  $1.88. 

By  W.  S.  HARWOOD 

The  New  Earth 

A  Recital  of  the  Triumphs  of  Modern  Agriculture  in  America. 
Mr.  Harwood  shows  in  a  very  entertaining  way  the  remark- 
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CYCLOPEDIA  OF  AMERICAN 
AGRICULTURE 

Edited  by  L.  H.  BAILEY 

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CLOTH,  $20  NET-HALF-MOROCCO,  $32  NET-CARRIAGE  EXTRA 

Volume  I— Farms 

The  Agricultural  Regions— The  Projecting  of  a  Farm— The  Soil 
Environment— The  Atmosphere  Environment. 

Volume  II — Crops 

The  Plant  and  Its  Relations— The  Manufacture  of  Crop  Products- 
North  American  Field  Crops. 

Volume  III— Animals 

The  Animal  and  Its  Relations  — The  Manufacture  of  Animal  Prod* 
ucts  — North  American  Farm  Animals. 

Volume  IV— The  Farm  and  the  Community 

Economics  —  Social   Questions  —  Organizations  —  History  —  Litera 
ture,  etc. 

"Indispensable  to  public  and  reference  libraries  .  .  .  readily  compreheai. 
Bible  to  any  person  of  average  education." — The  Nation. 
"The  completest  existing  thesaurus  of  up-to-date  facts  and  opinions  oh 
modern  agricultural  methods.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  many  years  must  pass 
before  it  can  be  surpassed  in  comprehensiveness,  accuracy,  practical  value? 
and  mechanical  excellence.  It  ought  to  be  in  every  library  in  the  country.' 
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AUG  3  1 1961 


